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So if those readings are correct what could be the probably cause of the no signal? Any ideas

They are probably referring to earlier, non-LIN version of the sensors. LIN sits at a high level when no data is being transferred, I believe.

Well all documents I’ve read so far point to 0.5v - am I missing something what should the correct voltage be

Pin 2 is a LIN bus connection; why do you think it should be at 0.5V?

It did yes. Done some further probing. Pin 1 - ground 0V Pin2 - signal 11.0V Pin3 - power 12.5v This is with ignition on, same readings at both sensors. Cannot don’t where the signal wire is picking up a live feed from. Should only be 0.5v.

Updated my successfully. Check this post link

Did those include fuse 34, a 7.5 Amp ignition switched one?

Hello I own a 2015 Skoda Octavia 3 with an Amundsen MIB1 unit. Current SW Train: MSTD_EU_SK_P3420 (MU0435) Part Number: 5E0 035 874 A I would like to update my unit to MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 (MU0490). I have been looking for the original firmware archive MSTD_EU_SK_P6230 (0490).7z, but unfortunately all public download links seem to be gone. If possible, would you be willing to share the firmware archive or a valid download link with me? I would really appreciate your help.

Hello, My observation: this is working when you use Travel Assist and it depends on type of the road. In my country (Poland) it only works on highways (2 or 3 lanes) but not on expressways (even 2-lanes same direction nor inside cities). It's not working with ACC in my case despite of type of road. Pic from today: Superb IV - 2025.

My July 2024 car acts as discribed by the OP. Can't say it bothers me. A few steering wheel button taps & I'm back to my usual dash display.

Never had this problem until a couple of weeks ago, I rolled back the update on Android Auto and reinstalled it on my phone, then reconnected to the car and it has not changed the VC layout when I go into Waze or Maps

Thanks for that. This confirms what I found out this morning that these sensors have their own control module and don't require reset after installation.

So far so good for me, as for the infotainment, that’s only a hop and catch and not a regular occurrence, holding the on/off button down for about 10 seconds to reboot it usually solves the issue.

His has the pop-out style ones - I think it’s a 5dr, but could be a 3dr. Either way, they’re a bit crap and aren’t the best moisture barrier I’ve ever seen. Aside from that, no complaints. Skoda Citigo, VW Up! or SEAT Mii, all perfectly good little cars.

Having 2 small children and a sunny time of year, I thought it would be a nice touch getting the roller-blinds built in but they're expensive. Instead I went for Snapshades magnetic ones which pretty much cover the entire glass area and is very quick and easy.

I'd change the whole thing given the age and mileage; components are going to start showing their age so you'll be saving hassle by replacing the arm which includes 2 bushes and the bottom ball joint. You'll find they're just as likely referred to as Lower Control Arms or LCAs. You can get the aluminium ones (pattern parts from Autodoc) but you have to be careful which model as per this post - Passat and Arteon are ok, Golf parts are not as they're too short so make sure it isn't that. I'd also consider changing both sides as it goes, for the same reason.

Thanks for the correction, not sure how I managed to transpose the measurements. 🙄

Pre facelift didn`t have this option at all. Facelift has, AFAIK.

I didn't - I just got the closest part number I could then used my cheap eBay VAG scan tool to clear the fault after fitting. The fault hasn't recurred and there are no obvious symptoms of a fault.

My Superb 2.0 SE business tdi estate just passed its MoT with the following advisory: Offside front suspension wishbone rear bush debonding. Before the MoT I replaced the tyre which had heavy wear on the inside edge. Would I be better replacing the bush or the wishbone complete? People also talk about replacing the steel ones with alloy from an Audi. It this worthwhile for one side only? In which case what it the part number? The car is now pushing eleven years old with 86,000 on the clock. It is our workhorse.

135/80R17 has a bigger outside diameter than 125/70R18. However, 135/80R18 will be an even closer match to the Karoq tyre sizes. 135/80R18 could be fitted to the same 3.5Jx18 ET25.5 steel space saver rim that the 125/70R18 uses. Outside diameter of tyre 125/70R18 632.2mm 135/80R17 647.8mm (2.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 125/70R18) 135/80R18 673.2mm (6.5% bigger outside diameter compared to 125/70R18) Continental Space Saver Tyre 135/80R18 https://www.camskill.co.uk/m129b0s7672p188874/Continental_Tyres_Temp_Space_Saver_Continental_s_Contact_135_80_R18_T_104M_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_XC_Wet_Grip%3A_XC_NoiseClass%3A_XC_Noise%3A_XC The below foam and jack kits for the Karoq can be ordered from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number. The VAG parts department can check whether this is correct for your particular vehicle, but they will need the car's VIN number to check. OEM part numbers for foam and jack kit (Karoq FWD) (includes everything, except for the actual spare wheel) 57A093860 57A093860B OEM part numbers for foam and jack kit (Karoq 4x4) (includes everything, except for the actual spare wheel) 57A093860A 57A093860C

Not mandatory, but a lot of people were getting issues after the update, that a reset fixed, you can try without and see how you go, as you can always reset later, but it will clear all the things you said.

Is a factory reset mandatory after the update? I suspect that all settings / primary user etc are lost and must be started from scratch.

Sounds like a wiring diagram would be useful to know where the G65 and air quality sensor connect to?