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Are the paint identification markers still visible on them? Bump stops replaced as well?

Hi all, Since I bought my mk2 Octavia Scout, I have a gigantic clunk when the dampers are decompressing. It happens in all 4 wheels independently. I've replaced everything in the suspensions (Strut mounts, ARB bushings, ARB rods, and dampers). I've replaced the shocks absorber with the Bilstein 22-183729. They are advised on ETKA for the vehicles with the "Heavy Duty Suspension" and the PR codes UB2, G07, L66, which are mine (see picture). And the problem is still the exact same! I came to the conclusion that the shocks are too short for the Scout version I own and they are topping out when I go down a speed bump, a pothole or whatever. When I look at the characteristics of the dampers, the extended lenght of all available versions is the same: 552mm. For both heavy duty and regular suspension, including the Bilstein I've installed. But the Scout version of the car is supposed to be sitting higher... - So is there actually a difference in lenght in Scout and Regular Octavia's dampers? - If yes, what's the actual reference of them? - If no, where could my issue come from? I'm now 4 years and too much € deep into this, I need to find a solution... Thanks heaps y'all for your help!

I am having similar challenges getting a CV boot kit for my 55 plate vRS So far I have in my hand from ECP 656780050 GKN/Lobro Pack also says 303558 about £24. The spline M12 is correct according to AI anyway and it has all the other parts and the material the boot it made of is stiffer material, than the universal one that only lasted about 2 years and under 2k. The measurements look about right. I also have a backup GSF GSP803024 coming tomorrow that is CV inc boot kit for £55ish

Postscript to this thread. The fault stopped being intermittent so I took the car to a trusted VAG group mechanic. Initially they diagnosed a tube actuator arm problem but after cleaning the fault went away so initially I thought we had a very cheap fix. Car worked well for a fortnight and then the fault returned. Ultimately we had to replace the whole turbo unit. it was an expensive fix but I've had over a year of trouble free motoring since and if I get another year or two out of the car it will have been money well spent. It's been a reliable workhorse, 108,000 miles and 12 years old now so in some ways every year is a bonus.

Nope!

Do u have a sunroof?

I'm think I've tried all three, can't remember. I can do it again, but it will be tomorrow as I've got my slippers on and it's raining. There is no mad hurry. Ta.

Nice history Chris 47. I remember when the joke Skoda brand became car of the year with the first Fabia back in the mid nineties. I’ve got an Octavia estate for my tools. Nice but bit too much fragile tech for me on this eco friendly PHEV at least compared to my old MK3 Mondeo estate.

On kopacek.com they list them as fitting - fits ALL Octavia IV COMBI models they don't list anything for 4.5 and I would seriously doubt that Skoda changed the shape of the windows/doors seeing as it was basically just a facelift. It might be worth shotting them an email to check though... [email protected]

Hi again. Still have the same probleem.🙂 Does anyone with a Skoda Octavia IV (2020–2022), where Coming Home and Leaving Home are working correctly, have a VCDS measuring values log from 09 – Central Electrics (BCM)? I'm particularly interested in these values: Sensor_Error1 Sensor_Error2 Sensor_Error3 Sensor_Error4 On my 2021 Octavia IV, the first three values are 0, but Sensor_Error4 = 1. My Coming Home and Leaving Home functions are not working, even though the light sensor detects darkness correctly and the BCM adaptations appear to be correct. I'd like to compare these values with a working Octavia IV to see whether Sensor_Error4 = 1 is normal. If anyone could check these values or share their blockmap-09 CSV file, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!

That is really helpful, Alisdair. Thank you very much. Nigel

Read Error Log

Hi Had airbag warning light on last year and after a cost was reset, with no issues found. Recently it back on again, I had just take stuff to the local tip back seats were down ect. I feels this could be costly if I take it to garage and the same outcome. What should I do ? Recommendations? John

Thanks. I’ve ordered one. Will be good to see if there is a drain or if the battery is indeed on the way out.

He must have missed that the first time you posted it.

Your car is right hand drive.

Dealer / specialist job. They’ll know the workarounds without breaking anything. I had this happen in 2020, two months after getting the car when it went in for warranty work. The cable had slipped somewhere, the handle had zero tension and neither side would open. The dealer had it open and fixed in 30 mins with nothing broken at all. Oddly it wasn’t covered by warranty….🙄

Nope. My car by VIN is not in any recall. How is it possible? More quality bolts used?

When I see 9 years efb in diesel i am surprised. Maybe long distance driving. I have many short trips, stop and go. Original was efb OEM Varta, 59Ah, then i buyed 3 years ago new exide Efb 60 Ah. Now i see that Exide AGM 61Ah is cheaper than EFB 60Ah. It is 140€ and efb is 160€ Should i buy agm next? 1.5 tsi evo 110 kW.

Yes, I think I'm fighting Maxi-dot control and menu which is a software layer that may not be compatible. But ABS must still communicate with Instruments over CAN to set and clear dash warnings? "The ABS coding for Maxi-Dot control is different from that used with a hardware button." It would be nice to know which coding bits only relate to indirect ABS TPMS and link to ABS hard wired switch. MY07 V.W based on Golf V with working ABS TPMS and reset button has no coding clues I can find to enable it or make changes. I'd expect the basic system to be pretty dumb - ABS controller hardware and software does the work and sums, then sends a warning lamp 'on' to the dash, cleared by the switch and control inside ABS

I took delivery of my 6 months old 5000 mile Enyaq Coupe a few days ago. As I fully expected the Skoda Wipers are poor. I've been researching the Bosch Aerotwin part no's expecting it to be as easy as it has been on my other Skoda's but lots of confusion out there. Some sites saying A027S is the correct pack then reviews saying they don't fit RHD cars. So can anyone confirm the correct part number for UK cars please? Thanks.

Yes, that looks the same as the one I got, much better sound.

Perfect thank you so much this helps greatly, would alloy TT arms be an upgrade? I haven't touched anything suspension wise yet, just remapped and an exhaust now my warranty has ended. So there will be lots more questions I am sure. If there is anything you would recommend please say, you said about the ARB any ideas?

Thanks - I tried to provide a link to the £11.59 AliExpress advert I found, but, as its URL-length is very long, I used my usual URL-shortening app to cut its length down. I checked, after posting my comment, that the shortened version was OK, but it did not work, so I edited it out. Hopefully, using a different URL-shortening app, this link does work. https://shorturl.at/TE9KS (And it seems to...)

My original battery went suddenly after 5 years - I nudged the car forwards to get into the boot then it wouldn't start again. I put that primarily down to my work commute being only 5 miles. I now tend to put the battery on charge when I'm not going to use it for a few days over the winter months to try and keep it in shape. Oddly I find that S/S isn't a good indicator of anything on my car - I can do a long run with the heater and A/C off and the windows open and it just keeps the engine running with the message about high power drain. Another time I can pop out with the heater and A/C on and it'll start operating after a few minutes. 99% of the time I turn it off on startup though.