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It could be sticking randomly but also might be a broken wire/dodgy connector to it thats sometimes not making contact. Check wiring for wear/breaks etc and inspect hoses for splits etc. Alasdair

To get you started on part numbers, I've checked what I ordered for a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS a few years ago, and it looks like your 2011 Fabia 1.2TSI uses the same "72mm" front bearing assembly complete with ABS pick up ring. The VW Group p/n started as being 6R0 407 621 A and that was superseded by 6C0 407 621 and that has been superseded by 6RD 407 621 A. Now, when I ordered my bearing assemblies a few years ago, the FAG offering was 713 6104 and the SKF offering was VKBA3569 - of course with time FAG and SKF might have revised their offerings. Each of these aftermarket kits comes complete with a new plastic dust/debris shield and a new hub nut. It might also be time to check the condition of the disc back plates as they will be getting removed to do this work - I spent an hour of so cleaning mine up - threw some black paint on them - then just bought new ones as in reality there was not much good steel where it needed to be!

Keep a note of which way the adjuster is fitted as they only work if fitted the right way round. Theres a bump at top but cant remember if it faces you or the reverse. Alasdair

Any one had a problem starting there car. Steering wheel wont lock and and ignition wont come on. After trying to turn on ignition it says turn steering wheel can turn all the way left and right and get the same message with no ignition.

I've been using the wheel alignment specialist on Leeds Road in Huddersfield, for years. I took my Superb Greenline Estate to him just after I'd bought it and had 4x new Goodyear eco tyres fitted. He had to loosen the front subframe to get a best-in-the-circumstances alignment, due to the previous owner crashing it. He wasn't able to get the front alignment spot-on, was able to get it fairly well aligned. 34,000 miles later and the Goodyear tyres still had about 4mm left on them. With them wearing more on the inside edge, but nothing as drastic as the photos in this thread. A nail in the tyre at a funny angle this week resulted in me getting 2x new Hankook Ventus Prime 4's for the front. Otherwise, there's a chance the front Goodyears would have lasted 40,000 miles.

Topic moved to Insurance & Legal Issues

Random times, not after fueling, have changed OEM fuel cap. Could be N80 valve but surely it would be stuck open or shut, not intermittent!? Thanks again

You're replying to a fourteen year old post and the poster hasn't been on in nearly two years. Topic locked 🔐

The visitor shouldn't have to work out what you actually do, how long a repair is likely to take, or what happens if you can't fix it. A clear list of services, realistic turnaround times and a straightforward explanation of the “no fix, no fee” policy would probably inspire more confidence than lots of marketing language. I'd definitely fix the page title as well. “Home -” looks like an unfinished template and doesn't exactly give a professional impression when someone has several tabs open.

Hi and welcome.

Thank you both. Yeah, I don't do long journeys really. Maybe 3 or 4 times a month. I'll try BP/Shell as we don't have Gulf or Esso here anymore.

Hello all! Any solution to recover the e-Management option back on the latest firmware? I also have the “Reduced charging current” function ON after the update, because before doing it it took like 4.5h to fully charge the battery (220V, home socket) and now it takes 8h50m 😵. And the only way to disable/enable this function was in the e-Management screen which is unavaible now, after the update.

Ok so I decided to bleed the clutch as a slight possibility and because I was doing the brakes anyway. It seems that my clunking has gone. Fluid looked pretty s***ty when I first began to flush.

Red ring is the pivot that is often seized. Pink arrows show the movement which should be free and easy. Green arrows shows the adjuster which Alasdair mentioned.

You might be able to free it up if you take that drum off, disconnect cable from that plate then rotate it back and forth to break corrosion. Add a few drops of oil to the pivot/rivet, between the plates. Loosening the cable adjustment in the cabin by quite a lot is a big help when trying to remove drum. Retighten when work is done.

How can I adjust or repair it? What needs to be replaced?

The top end pivot will be seized on the plate of steel in the drum that the handbrake cable attaches to.

My Audi A4 is successfully updated. Cheers

Mine does the same. The high idle followed by fans on after stopping are a failed regen. When I notice high revs I try to continue driving and give it for a good blast down the road at revs above 2500 for about 20 mins and it should complete the regen till next time. Mine is due to shorter runs than I used to do. Alasdair

The main foot brake works fine. The braking force from the foot brake is OK.

On the MK1 fabia which I am sure will be the same or similar on yours there are slider wedges that automatically adjust in rear drums. They can seize or wear out. They have a gripped surface on one side and are held in place with a small spring. It could also be a failing brake cylinder or leaking cylinder and contaminated shoes or a sticking handbrake cable on the poor side. If the handbrake is high it would point to the adjuster not working. Either way they will need to be taken apart to check. Alasdair

Probably have special inbuilt trackers fitted as well.

Sorry, (incredibly) late reply. No, I never got any error code.

I went for a vehicle inspection. It turns out that the handbrake isn’t working properly. The left rear brake is very weak, while the right one is fine. Is it possible to adjust just the faulty one? How can I do that? The handbrake engages too high. I don’t want to adjust it with the screw inside the car because that would tighten the right drum too much. Help :)