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Most of the year it'll be mundane stuff, loads of short hops for groceries and (I nearly said petrol then! LOL!) social stuff, but there's several times of year when I do 200-300 mile journeys, which will almost inevitably now require a layover for charging. But the way fuel prices are going and my lack of enthusiasm for the out & out brut power of the RS, I'm hoping that this change will calm me down a bit, especially as I get older and I now have medical conditions with high BP/HF Depression/anxiety amongst them.

I consider it unrealistic to expect zero lube oil consumption in any engine, no matter what materials and tolerances are used. I suspect an analysis taken of oil from an engine reportedly using absolutely zero oil would reveal that it was in fact not 100% lubricating oil.

Cheaper models tend to be LFP (exceptions in Korean vehicles) and more expensive models use NMC due to better energy densities. I think it is important to clarify since it may affect how you (should) live with it.

I have no idea what batteries are under this one it might still be NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt) and as it's a MY27 car it comes with a 84KwH battery rather than 82KwH, plus loads of software updates & differences

MEB cars have a separate battery heating/cooling loop but share the car's aircon unit for cooling. There's a three port valve that controls flow to the coolant loops.

My understanding (willing to be corrected) is that the Elroq 85 has an NMC battery which means the best procedure for slower battery degradation is to maintain the charge between 20 and 80%. It is ok to charge to 100% for range flexibility on a longer journey, and ok to run down to low percentages if you immediately charge it. It is leaving the battery for a long period at either higher or lower limit that causes the greatest degradation. LFP batteries (in the Elroq 60) are different insofar as they are far more tolerant of extended periods at the limits and even benefit from regular (weekly?) 100% charges to maintain correct battery level monitoring. I do get very confused on the vehicular heat pump option and what it does. I mean I understand how a heat pump works, and its efficiencies, and even have very effective reverse cycle air conditioning in my house. In an ICE vehicle the heat is supplied from the engine waste heat and the cooling from an engine driven cooling heat pump and the combination allows control of temperature and humidity, so that you can clear the condensation from the windows without freezing your man bits off. So, if you opt for a heat pump then it cannot just be a reverse cycle unit since you need both hot and cold elements to achieve the same de-humidification. Then there is the question of how battery temperature is controlled, essential for fast charging and longevity (original Nissan Leaf being a prime example of the consequences of not managing battery temperature). Does the battery have separate heat pumps circuits or share the passenger cell facilities?

Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

This is the list of parts and costs for the repair (approx £1700). Plus ten hours labour (approx £1500). Socket head bolts with inner polygon head x17 £28.90 Silicon Sealant x1 £41.37 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Circlip x1 £7.30 Cap x1 £10.10 Deep groove ball bearing x1 £80.60 Oil Seal x2 £35.90 Cleaning solution x1 £33.34 Plug x1 £6.95 Driveshaft rear left x1 £545 Driveshaft Rear right £561 Gear oil x2 £113.16 Coolant x20 £109.20 Exactly my thoughts. I am going to contact Skoda directly...

That's rather poor given VAG know its a design tolerance issue.

So....Dealer agrees it is the rear driveshaft issue. They also agree that, generally, Skoda DO offer 'goodwill' financial assistance as they know it us a design/manufacturing fault. My car has done 110k miles so basically tough **** 🤬🤬🤬🤬

Do you guys think a Golf VII estate swivel towbar would fit my Mk3 Scout? Golf/Leon/Octavia estate seem to be interchangeable for aftermarket towbars but don't know?

That was a good £10 more than it is when already expensive at £12 a litre.

Thanks for the reply. I've deleted the primary user so there is only guest. At the moment the fault hasn't reappeared so I'm assuming the primary user profile was corrupt. I'll leave it a week then add another primary user and see what ha3

I’ve started monitoring usage and practicality. @NottsIan your explanation makes sense, I need to work through all the various options, maybe I released parking brake manually - maybe the delay is less with one method.

Have you tried doing a factory reset of the infotainment, and then logging in again as primary user? This might help, but I've not heard of anything like this before. If that fails to resolve the issue I think you'll need to goto a dealer, especially if you can easily reproduce the fault. If not easy to reproduce I'd recommend taking a video of it happening. My dealer were receptive to video proof of an issue.

Just done a quote for late September and it's an additional £159, which seems fair enough when the value of the car is £45k

I would dump the oil and pour it into a white plastic basin, as that can tell a story. I plan to do mine once I'm out of warranty.

Warrior193, no its petrol as above, the suitable oil was £22 for 1 ltr, thankfully its not really my problem as its a lease car, but while oil consumption was expected and acceptable when i was in the motor trade in the 70’s, it should not be these days, not with the materials and machine processes that modern engines are made with now, as i said in a previous post, lots of new vehicles over the years, petrol and diesel and this is the first one thats need oil between services.

I can't answer your question but this might help

The front lip and rear spoiler really do make it along with it being lower. I’m edging closer to having nothing left to do on mine other than lowering… What’s the bhp change in this time?

PM sent

^^^ A 1.5TSI Hybrid. PS. recommended by VW / Skoda, VW508 00 / 509 00. So 0w20 FS IV.

I'd consider 1 litre of lube oil consumed in more than 11K miles a very reasonable usage rate. Is this a diesel hybrid? How much did you get 'stung' for the oil - consider buying the correct grade from a reputable online seller, in 5 or more litre quantities for topping-up between oil changes.

Tested the code after letting the car sit for 6 hours (cold engine): Cold Engine (Ignition ON, Engine OFF): The code was static and refused to clear. I tried clearing it 4 times in a row, but it reappeared instantly on every rescan without even starting the engine. Warm Engine: After driving to lunch and back, I cleared the code on ignition—it wiped cleanly and stayed gone. Will check the rest of the suggestions when I come home. And retray to clear fault when the engine is cold.

coming up to my 2nd year service - what should I look out for? Mrs doesn't drive it much done around 5500miles - 1.5 Petrol Sportline