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I do my own work but the kit price is about £250ish for OEM I think, so that seems a little steep just for the kit tbh, job is about 3-4 hours, I did the crankshaft main seal as it was leaking which means taking the sump off so I was on the upper end of that time. Its not really that big a job as there is plenty of room really. I would say c£700 is about right, but it is worth checking some of the oil seals as if they start leaking you get to all all the labour again as the cambelt has to come off. I would also do the aux belt and pulleys at the same time. Just checked - I paid £555 for my wifes 2017 2.0 TDI Ateca 3 years ago as I wanted the evidence. That was using a INA timing belt kit (£150) and inc aux belt and pulleys etc.

From memory I believe a new turbo/wastegate has to be calibrated. Perhaps the garage either didnt or got it wrong. I would take it back and get it scanned with as said vcds to see exactly whats going on. Alasdair

It is exactly as yours but without the raised dotted section at the marked area. It remains plain, flat, glossy, black steel. And i don;t know why... After scraping the black coating it became more visible and it annoys me much less so i will do nothing else about it. Remains the problem that the dipstick gets all wet when inserted. The only way to minimize that effect is checking the level after the car has sat overnight and all of oil has settled.

Mine still doing the "applications" every day after 10 weeks!! Yesterday it was in notifications but hadn't given me the prompt to install it, started the install which was still happening 15 minutes later when I got home and turned the engine off. Checked this morning and on notifications there was 3 installed notifications. Be interesting if the update comes back again today, not holding my breath!! Going to a VAG specialist tomorrow to drop my Misses Seat Ibiza in and I ask them what they know about it.

Our kodiaq is going the same. I need to book it in for the bcm recall so I’ll ask Skoda about it then.

Vw Audi workshop in Ipswich are brilliant but booked up quite far in advance. Prices are on the wall in the waiting room: £640 inc VAT

If someone has been into fuse box and added bits/changed wiring it could very well be why the headlights/foglights were affected. Glad it was as simple as a loose connection. Had the same car and found it bomb proof apart from cluster being loose. No DPF to worry about and superb MPG. Alas the dreaded rust got mine eventually. Still have it for spares but its past repairing. Worth doing timing belt and water pump if it hasn't been done in a while. These days the timing belt has a very long change interval but water pump can fail as can tensioners Alasdair

Late response, still, might help others in the same position: the 0204 code is not glow plug, it is an electrically failed injector. You need to replace #4 injector. It has never been anything to do with the glow plugs,other than the glow plug light is flashing when an injector fails. Had the same fault on my wife's Roomster some years back, quite a few of 1.6TDI injectors were dodgy, either leaking or failing, our Roomster had both. HTH

Not only -- but also ... The metal pipe that the bent rubber pipe attaches to the sensor, is a large > shape with the point having a mounting tab that should be bolted to the timing cover? Can anyone tell me the bolt size and length needed, as mine is nowhere to be seen, and the whole thing flaps about. No prizes for guessing what it does when the engine is revving.

Finally managed to transfer photo from my phone ...

You really do need to find out what the car thinks is wrong to bring that light ON. It needs scanning using a fully VW Group compliant scan tool - such as VCDS or Carista etc, and take it from there.

Without knowing the boot sticker I’d go for these Monroe ones. They are longer than the saloon ones.

If you want quality suspension parts use avs spares, put it in google. Excellent people. Unfortunately they very rarely show the springs as they can be complicated. However I did work it out and to do so would need a picture of the white vehicle label in the boot. To be fair though they are bound to be standard estate ones for the vag range of cars. The original springs should have had Three coloured dots on them. That makes it much easier to just buy the same. See photo as an example. In this case pink brown brown. So for my Audi TT standard front suspension springs. If you post the label up though I will see if I can tell you.

Hey everyone! I recently installed a RNS310 Multimedia/radio into my mk2 Fabia. Had fun fitting it, until I realised I need the 4 digit PIN code to use it. I read the original radio owner's manual, and the code is nowhere to be found Can anyone help, serial number is SKZ1Z2K6338276 I tried paying for one of those code retrieval services, and got scammed out of 25$ lol

Thanks to all for your replies. Maybe a wierd lucky coincidence, but finding a pictorial guide to the dash panel fuse box, on the floor under the passenger seat today, led me to investigate that. There's obviously been some alterations (see attached), and one of the added connectors was loose. Testing again after reseating that and the lights are now behaving themselves! There is an after-market reversing camera fitted - but no screen. There are also two live USB leads in the dash-top storage compartment. So I wonder if the fuse box alterations could be linked to either of those? Re. missing cover. Retracting washers are far too advanced for me! Previous car was Octy Mk1 with fixed washers on bumper. Now I know what to search for, eBay has thrown up possibilities. A couple of UK sellers have them for under a tenner a pair - unpainted. So I just need to find the right paint. Thank you again for all the help.

Thank you.

I have just checked my coding and adaptation map and my Stg 4B byte 11 bit 0 is already unchecked. But I think my headlights do not know the central reservation when driving on right hand traffic motorways.

Light had gone when I picked car up from garage but 2 miles up the road I filled up with petrol and then engine light was back on. Should I just drive it for a bit and see if it goes off?

Knew I had a photo of my 1985 2.0 SGL somewhere: Gaz

I did wonder myself. One for @viper42 and @MartiniB . It's going to be whether the RoW markets support it I guess.

Interesting change… hadn’t seen anything about it. It was never a thing due to our own “freedom of travel” agreement post… historical events… that predated EU membership and the Schengen agreement rights to move about. I’m not reason for at airports has been because of the post 911 international clamp down on travel identity

Does anyone know if Rest of World (MRM) maps are still being released? There have been two EU releases this year but the last MRM release seems to be November last year.

I have a guaranteed trade payout locked in for 11:00 AM tomorrow. Offering this to a private buyer or enthusiast first for £6900 firm. Car is fully packed, cleaned, and documents ready. If you want a clean 2019 Karoq at trade valuation before it goes to a dealer, message me before 10:00 AM. I have also 2 extra tyres for it. Finance was cleared. Will take a few days to clear with HPI.

My 2.0 lt TDi has achieved 84K and seems to be doing well, no DPF/EGR issues (so far) apart from the usual belt and water pump, it's required nothing beyond the usual consumables. I don't go for dealer servicing, MOT covers most things in a service ( as a service is mostly check/inspect xyz) and I always get an annual oil change with the MOT. filters are about the only thing that doesn't require a computer that I can still fix. I'm not changing mine until repairs exceed value, it's a shame they didn't make a mark II instead of becoming one of the look alike sheep with the subsequent Yeti replacements

Does the stud go down and connect to the thick black wire below? The one that goes out at the bottom left of your first photo. If so does that go to the positive battery terminal? Thanks. AG Falco