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The advice your garage is giving you about checking for piston ring issues is complete nonsense! a simple compression test is all that is required - rectifying any issues revealed by the test is another matter.

Looks like no solution to my issue, except engine rebuild, which is much too expensive. Went to all options of high oil consumption and no difference it made. It was always serviced regularly so I'm told rings are an issue in 2.0L skoda octavia models mark 3. I'm topping up for now when needed. Skoda should have taken responsibility for those inferior engines on mark 3 models

Mine is h10 too.

I spent about 100 bucks buying a carplay module, and put it into the RCD510. So the RCD510 is the screen used to display while the carplay module working inside. There's a button to switch model between original display and carplay display, which means the car has two central controls. The hardest part is finding the space to hide the carplay module and the harness LOL.

@ashefield did you get to the bottom of the issue? I'm having the same problem and the garage has been useless in diagnosing it!

The garage had it for 2x days and found no issue :D It's using 1l of oil for every 600-700 miles and constantly performing a regen but no issue found. They checked the turbo for leaks, etc and stated that regens were completing successfully. The fact that it regens every time the engine is running indicates there's an issue, surely? I mentioned it's likely a piston ring issue but they stated it was too big of a job to check. Not really surely what to do now...

Hi there. I'm facing this issue and need to replace one of my rear sensors. Did you ever manage to get info on how to actually get to it to swap it out? Cheers!

Did you Buy an Octavia in the end? Or lose interest in your thread?

The OP has a Fabia MK4, not a Fabia MK3. 6V0093860B and 6V0601011M are both Fabia MK3 part numbers.

311.6 KB file on MEGA No warrenty your own risk To do Like Firmware Update

I have an almost all diesel mixture from my petrol Fabia and was thinking of adding it gradually to my 2014 Diesel Honda CRV 1 gal to 1 tank. Will it be detrimental to the DPF or anything else?

My Sportline say's it has one but previous owner had detachable towbar fitted which means there's a cut out under bumper, I waved my foot about under it and nothing so presumed it was diconnected or something to allow for towbar. I was trying to pull the swinging electic socket down one day to plug trailer into and boot opened so must be still there, can't seem to get it to work with my foot but reading comments I have got to get the knack !

Here is the option on the display.

Hi pab567, Could you please provide me with the latest available firmware update for my MIB1 unit? Here are my current system details: Device part number: 5E0035020C Hardware: H43 Software version: 0360 Thank you very much for your time and help!

Yes i dont want too stiff suspension because i drive this car daily, just looking to replace the tired original suspension with new parts or with upgraded new parts if it really makes a difference. Arent the eibach pro springs progressive springs? Would they still be too firm in a daily?

I managed to update my unit to 0253 using an SD card. What do I need to do in order to activate Smartlink? Many thanks for your help!

Something to do with it being a sealed system and due to heat it increases pressure when off. The N276 valve I think reduces it to normal for starting. If its sticking you should notice a pressure spike in live data. As said bit above my experience but it seems to make sense. Hope its not as they arent as far as I know replaceable so new HPFP Alasdair

Your hardware is H11 standard, mine sadly is H10. That must be the difference, mine was built in June 2025

First thing is get the wheels off the ground and check if it is the wheel bearings bearings.

Now I have a heat pump at home I'm seriously considering moving to Eon, this may clinch it.

Ah OK, thank you. I'll give that a try. So... do the same as I did before, but wait 5-6 minutes for the pressure to build up to 1200, start the engine, and see whether the pressure spikes or drops. When I first plugged the OBD in earlier today and turned the ignition on (just to position 2, not actually starting the engine), I noticed that the pressure was around the 1500 mark, then dropped to around 700 when I started the engine. I wasn't properly looking or checking at that point, though, so I'll try it again and see what happens with a proper test.

Think 700 and rising to 1200 is perfectly normal so injectors are sealed and pump is doing its job. I have just read it could be a pressure spike due to a sticking n276 valve when restarting car. According to google to check let it build up to 1200 and start car while reading fuel pressure data at same time. If it spikes really high 2000psi or above it may well be a sticking valve and dumping too much fuel into engine until the pressure levels out. Its a bit beyond my experience but worth a look. Alasdair

On one Skoda headunit I had it was a four digit code stuck to the back of the HU on an old style price label.

https://www.phonostar.de/download/vw/MQB3_JND_Europe_v1.31.66.zip

Back in July/August, I did some OBD tests to monitor coolant temperature too, and those came back fine. The coolant temperature readings matched what I was seeing on the dashboard gauge, and the rise in temperature was normal/linear and consistent with the driving type. Warmed up fine during slower town driving, then started to drop when driving at faster speeds and therefore more airflow. The over-cooling also seemed slightly stronger when the aircon was on - second fan causing even more airflow in the engine bay, perhaps?