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We see oft in airfreight logistics. I would hope the 30% SoC test is done but I fear not as oft it should. Should push much of freight on to rail and truck rather than air and sea but that is not happening perhaps ad myxh as it should. I must have at least 50 items with Lithium batteries I reckon, maybe a lot more. Must do a run to the recycling centre rather than leave devices hanging around.

Bumper off for a good look and possible reservoir replacement. "Dramatic leak" suggests more than a misplaced hose. Have a look at this; https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/147230-mk1-fabia-5-litre-washer-bottle-conversion/?hl=%20litre%20%20washer%20%20bottle#entry2798069

@pab567 Hello i have a 2015 mk3 lauren and klement octavia estate fitted with a columbus unit i have the ece2024 maps installed, i downloaded the latest map HIGH 12 F P350 EU 202345 from a link on here, when i installed the map it only lets me see the route from a distance of 25 miles and i cannot zoom in, any ideas??? Or can anyone put a link to the latest maps that work properly??

Received my first delivery with batteries included with a label like this.

Could it be the same as Mk2,s '7DL'

This may be slightly esoteric knowledge but I have a grey MY 2016 Octavia 3 Scout. Does anybody know what colour the plastic body trims are on it? ETKA shows two parts numbers for them, one with the suffix 9B9 - Satin Black. I need/want to replace the trims around the left hand fog light and the lower wheel arch trim but the only parts that seem to be available are 9B9 and I’m pretty sure mine are actually dark grey, which I assume are the non 9B9 part numbers. I thought I’d found at least one of them, new, in Italy, which has just arrived but turns out to be 9B9, Satin Black, and there is a subtle but obvious colour difference between it and the one on the car. Frustratingly, the colour suffix doesn’t appear on the part itself, that’s only recorded on the original part number label on the packaging, so even sourcing them from a breakers, if I could find, is no guarantee of them being the right colour. Does anybody have any knowledge of this? Thanks!

DQ250 & DQ381,s are the same oil in the Box and the MCU,.Oil & Filter changes at Servicing. It is the DQ200 that has the dry clutches & 2 oils, in the box and in the MCU. (No service schedule / regime & the small filter is in the MCU.)

The feature you refer to is known as Headlamp Assist. To use the feature, the light switch (turn knob) must first be in the “Auto” position. Then, each time you switch on the ignition, you need to push the headlamp stalk forwards until you feel resistance (about half the full travel), then let it return to rest position. You will notice the lights indicator at the bottom of the dashboard display shows a white dipped headlamp symbol with “A” in the centre of the symbol. Unfortunately, the car doesn’t remember this, and you have to repeat this second step involving the headlamp stalk each time the ignition is switched on.

I have bought and successfully installed this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006263043091.html it should be the same one and OEM! The seller referred me this manual https://aiduauto.com/blogs/installation-manual/skoda-octavia-mk4-evo-rear-camera-install?srsltid=AfmBOor_4VQeI-8HV9o051odIiFk-0o78mooUIBaezjqMjpBkbpe8d1o For disassemble interior I have followed this guide https://youtu.be/rWVycZsKrEU?si=EgI1TYuyRBRKmzvB It was quite a strenuous job and I wouldn't attempt it again, however camera fits and works excellent just like original, a big improvement IMO. PS: be extremely careful when disassembling tailgate wiring grommet clips.

How many seconds was there between step 2 and 3? If only a very short time, try repeating test but leave 60 seconds between ignition off and back on again. See if same outcome.

AI says, As vedicle is outside it's original 3-year manufacturer warranty, consider these avenues to manage the cost: Ask for Škoda "Goodwill": If you have a full Škoda main dealer service history, ask the service manager to submit a goodwill contribution request to Škoda UK. Because TPI 2065531/1 acknowledges a known manufacturing design tolerance issue, they sometimes cover a percentage of the labor or parts.

@Stonekeeper Absolutely agree. I drive many different manual gearbox vehicles (cars, vans, minibuses) - petrol and diesel) all of them (except one) will pull away from rest on a level surface without any throttle and allow the clutch to fully engage with out slipping or stalling. As you have described the DSG does exactly the same. The one exception is very much off topic. My 1983 Metro 1.3 HLE has a very high final drive ratio so does need a little throttle @Evolution13 is right to seek clarification as there are subtle differences or nuances with the various engine/dsg combinations, I mentioned a few I had experienced in an earlier post. @Cqrmine I personally don't think you have anything to worry about enjoy your new Karoq.

I heard it's advisable to keep the N249 plugged in, to avoid misfires. Which would mean no resistor for that part of the process. Any thoughts?...

If on a straight flat road you put it in gear and release the brakes. The car will move up to a speed without accelerating. Once it is doing that speed it is not creeping it is driving slowly clutches are fully engaged. So I therefore think if you are braking to keep the speed below that the car must have to "ride" the clutch. With a friction clutch that means wear but as long as you are not revving it at the same time the wear is "as expected" and should last over 60,000 miles . The bigger torque gearboxes use metal plates with oil pressure regulation the danger to these are heat and contamination in the oil reducing it's cooling effectiveness. In some models of dsg (don't think vw is one of them) the same oil in the gearbox runs through the mechatronic unit which causes severe problems if not maintained properly. So if you look after it don't abuse it, like holding it on a hill with the accelerator pressed, that's what auto hold was invented for. The clutches should last the current manufacturers " lifetime" expectations which I think is aimed at 100,000 miles Like @Evolution13 asks it would help if we knew what the engine and gearbox in @Cqrmine car is. Most 2 litres are DQ381 with the odd 1.5 but the majority below that would be DQ200 from what i can see. "The dry-clutch DQ200 gearbox has a hard mechanical limit of 250 Nm of torque. Any engine producing that amount or less gets the DQ200. Any engine producing more torque is mechanically forced to use a heavy-duty wet-clutch unit"

That was supposed to be 30mph in 4th. Mis-typed.

I just upgraded to the OBDeleven PRO subscription to get full access to Freeze Frame data, and I stumbled upon a very interesting discovery regarding the fault's behavior: The code returns instantly on ignition alone (before even cranking the engine)! Here is exact sequence I tested: Cleared the fault code (P25AB00). Turned the ignition off. Turned the ignition back ON (engine OFF / no cranking). Ran a full diagnostic scan. The fault immediately reappears as soon as the ECU powers up, even without the starter motor engaged or the engine running. The PRO version extracted the raw Freeze Frame values. While I can't interpret these raw numbers (HEX) myself, I have forwarded the PrtSc directly to the dealership service team so their technicians can analyze the exact ECU parameters at the moment of failure. Will keep you updated once I hear back from them!

I have a klunk when changing gear (mainly low speed) and slightly when lifting off the gas. Diff shafts seal area’s are leaking slightly on both sides. In my limited knowledge and based on the below video I’m thinking stub axels and or diff bearings but I would like advice before buying the parts. The video is both drive shafts grabbed at the box and twisted back and forth. IMG_6242.mov

Can we recap please and be clear. What engine and DSG has @Cqrmine Is it a DQ200 Twin Dry Clutch or a DQ381 Twin Wet Clutch DSG., & fitted engine?

@RenSkoda How about doing 40 mph in 3rd gear then?

Hey! Have a soft bricked unit, stuck on boot logo. So bought a UART-TTL adapter and used some tweezers to short 2 points on circuitboard, can get into emergency menu but it does not want to load emergency update. Have my previous firmware on SD card inserted. If I keep tweezers in place the emergency menu pops up, then "boot stopped", followed by emergency menu and so on. Removing tweezers directly after menu pops up, then pressing "2" does not work either. And reboot after pressing "2" does not work, see screenshot. Always get the "loading emergency updater" but then it always continues boot with "Welcome to QNX .." message, at the end it runs some shutdown script and I'm left with "Shutdown complete" message in Putty terminal window. So anyone have any experience with this? If you need more info just say the word.

I need to get a new door for rear side passenger superb in anthracite grey Anyone know where the best place to source one is? And advice on how to fit it would be gratefully received. thanks

Sounds very much like the drive shaft splines need to be re-glued. (Yes! Glued!) I've had MEB cars for over 5 years and this issue has been raised a number of times on various forums. There is a clicking sound from the rear when moving off (forward or reverse) and when going over to full re-gen. The splines on the drive shafts have movement caused by the adhesive used on them failing. All cases I've heard about have been covered by warranty or extended warranty. Worth a Google.

Škoda StoryboardThe new Škoda Slavia features a refreshed look and an exc...Škoda Auto has unveiled the updated Slavia sedan in India. The design changes give the car a fresher, more dynamic look. A special feature will be a new, exclusive colour for a limited edition of 500

Only codes that come up are for ‘Random misfire’ according to my garage. It’s never had an engine light come on for it. Just judders and lurches between 15-1800RPM. Typically most detectable when doing 40 mph in 4th gear.

Here's what I got with a plate of welders mask glass taped to my Pixel 9a