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First of all, THANKS, many many thanks. After a lot of testing and check VCDS, problem seems to be the "Lock malfunction". Anyway, I'll continue testing just to check if problem could be the wires or the entire piece... I’m attaching this in case it’s of any help to anyone in the future.... Update after further VCDS diagnosis: I have now reproduced the fault several times while monitoring the 6D measuring values. The most interesting finding is: IDE05229 - Reason for cancellation of rear lid procedure Last reason: Lock malfunction IDE09505-MAS09017 Tailgate lock: implausible counter It initially showed 1559, every failed opening attempt increased it by exactly one: 1559 → 1560 → 1561 → 1562 → 1563 → 1564 During a failed opening attempt the three latch states remain: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Closed Rear lid lock: Closed and the instrument cluster does not detect the boot as open. If I then slightly lift the tailgate manually, without another electrical command, the values change to: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Open Rear lid lock: Safety catch / pre-latch At exactly that point the boot open indication appears on the instrument cluster, and the implausible-lock counter does not increase. I also checked the closing-assist system separately: IDE09505-MAS09018 Closing assist implausible counter: 0 So at the moment VCDS appears to be pointing much more specifically towards the tailgate latch/lock or its state detection, rather than the pull-shut/closing-assist mechanism. Current stored DTC: B2010 00 - No Basic Setting Although the live measuring value IDE09495 currently reports the tailgate as Initialized. I'll continue diagnosing it before replacing any parts.

I think you are correct. My earlier model year karoq had this. Ion my 2025 sportline I've tried every virtual cockpit screen in every mode and the icon doesn't show. I guess skoda have decided to delete the option.

Grindy grindy noises last night. Have ordered overrun pulley for alternator along with tensioner and new aux belt this morning. 63k so about right for failure timing. Ordered INA parts for over run and tensioner kit with belt.

Very little chance of them pulling the injectors to test them in my opinion. I'd also think that the electrical bits, plug and coil, are much more likely to be the problem.

Thanks so much for the advice! I’m toying with that idea too. If they provide evidence for replacing and testing those parts, and most of the common fault components (cooling system) have been replaced in the last few months, then I feel like this might be an alright car to live with after this. Can never guarantee it though, obviously! So the Cinch warranty is free for 90 days, which covers any faults other than those classed as ‘general wear and tear’. Obviously it’s subjective as to what wear and tear is and isn’t, but this EPC light fault is being covered under warranty for example. There’s the option to extend the warranty up to 3 years also, at a cost of roughly £600 total. The 14 day money back guarantee runs out on the 19th October. Although, I’ve been doing some research and if the EPC fault came back after 14 days, legally I believe that Cinch would either have to replace, repair or refund me. Still doing my research into that though to confirm.

@Flosi example of adding stiffness without change clearance - Eibach Pro Kit from Kodiaq -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

in original, VAG have complete system with valve and its expensive, i had minor leaks and diassemble hoses from engine and this rubber is not bar, but plastic one have few leaks, i used selfvulcanization tape and I wrapped the entire ribbed pipe with it, 2 years ago, and everything is still fine. It's oil-based, this rubber fuel-based one never cracks. https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/b00011942/

@Cgwchris Was that local garage quoting near £1,000 to replace or a Skoda main Dealership? Was that after a Tech or Master tech inspecting the pipes?

I’m convinced the option has been removed by some software update on our 2024 model……..

It’s a while since I noticed it but I’m sure it something like ‘2 Cylinder Mode Active/Deactivated’…….

My colleague had the update done at the dealers but his car is still under warrenty. As this is clearly a SW bug perhaps they would at least start the update for older cars?? Gabbo

Hi imart143! Thanks so much for your help. Managed to find the oil vapour pipe online (Google told me it was also called a crankcase breather hose), but the gas one is proving a bit more difficult. Could anyone provide a link to the right replacement or suggest what else it might be called? Managed to find this which looks similar on eBay…is it that?

Many thanks for all the help from members. Europarts replied they do not have the part in stock but could find it so I advised them to let me know when had found it and I would purchase it. Alas nothing so far. Twinauto have not so far responded to my request. All other European suppliers have not been able to help. At present I am awaiting replies from the two Irish Skoda dealers. Its beginning to look like my only hope will be from reclaimers who may have it but what condition reclaim part are in must be a gamble. I have tried using a couple of Reclaimers but no luck. I am awaiting a reply from Skoda Customers Services as I gave them a considered response to there questionnaire they sent me and I advised them I was unhappy with the fact such an essential item as a part for the braking system was no longer produced was poor after service. As they say I think I am flogging a dead horse!

Both @NooxygeeN and @Dennn check your PMs for MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 download link

Hello, I own a Fabia 3 (facelift model) with the 1.0L 110 hp engine and manual transmission, purchased new in 2020; it has covered about 37,000 km. A few weeks ago, a strange noise appeared, seemingly coming from the front of the car. The noise starts to occur after driving for about ten minutes. To me, the volume is clearly noticeable, but not loud enough to be picked up on a recording made with my mobile phone, as it gets drowned out by normal road noise (engine, tires, wind, etc.). It isn't a humming sound; it’s more like a rubbing or friction noise. Once it starts, it remains virtually constant in both volume and pitch: . regardless of vehicle speed (starting from around 20 km/h) . regardless of the gear engaged . whether the car is in gear, coasting (clutch disengaged), or in neutral . it doesn't change when shifting the load—testing by turning/loading the front-left and then front-right sides while driving at 70–80 km/h (I’m lucky enough to have stretches of good road nearby with smooth asphalt and relatively light traffic at certain times). Technicians at my Skoda dealership—where I just had the 6-year service done—said they took it for a test drive and didn't hear anything unusual. They also found no issues with the wheel bearings. The only option they offered was to run a diagnostic check for the tidy sum of €375.00. Before committing to that, I thought I’d check the forum to see if anyone might have an idea what the problem could be. I’ve searched online but haven't found any similar cases. Thanks for reading.

Another one here on a 2021 plate and still receiving the frequent small updates, and no sign of the biggie to fix it. Would be nice if it could be forced. I'm not putting non-official updates on either, these cars are bug-ridden as it is.

How do i confirm this is definitely the correct part for my 2018 octavia vrs 184bhp. Ive read there are different matrix with differen shapes etc Also is this a decent part as quite reasonably priced Mechanic said part from dealers would be £240

I’m pretty certain this thread is no longer about individual versions of the “truth” about electric cars.

Thanks, yes, that looks like the one. I reused the old one with gasket seal as a temporary measure and made sure the nuts were tightened this time - fixed the leak enough to pass the Swedish registration check....

oil evapour, gasoline evapour

So nobody has an opinion?

Best solution ever: Cut the original plastic retainer prong. Trim flat. Use a temperature controlled soldering iron to insert an M4 hot melt knurled insert. Set the temperature to 250⁰C. Keep on side a water sprayer full of water and tested for proper spaying. Melt the insert using as little vertical force as possible in the position of the prong you cut. When the plastic gives in, prepare to spray water. When the insert is flat with the surface, spray plenty of water on it to cool it. Use an M4 black Torx screw to attach the lanyard.

Rejection has been accepted and all funds to be returned on Monday. Sourced a L&K Superb with only 14000 on the clock

Hi I'm on the verge of buying the above car (2021 plate) and looking to confirm whether the DSG fluid change needs done. My extensive conversation with AI has pointed me to this forum and suggests it definitely needs a change at 40k miles, with the car currently sitting on 46k. I asked the dealer about this and was advised that on this particular model, the manufacturer spec is to change at 75k. This doesn't quite add up with what I've been told through AI but I'm very aware that AI can get it wrong sometimes! AI tells me: "DQ381 (0GC) 7-speed wet-clutch DSG transmission. When the salesperson told you the interval is 75,000 miles, they were quoting a legacy rule or a global metric mistranslation" Could anyone please confirm one way or another so I can confidently challenge this before signing any paperwork? Thanks so much.

Rather than raise this here speak with the garage and ask why there is such a difference?