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I think you meant 6V0093860B rather than 6VA093860B, as there's no such part as 6VA093860B. 6V0093860B is a Fabia MK3 part number not a Fabia MK4 part number, as shown in the link below. Spare wheel kit 6V0693860B (Fabia MK3) https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6v0093860b-spare-wheel-replacement-kit-skoda-25130.html

It depends on your use case everyone is different. You can get low 50s on flat motorway but mid twenties n slow traffic. Overall the engine is pretty economical given the performance available. The car isn’t optimised for economy. For contrast I’ve been driving a new Peugeot 2008 for the last 2 months on holiday and over 9,000km it’s averaged 49mpg. That’s a mix of slow traffic to 130-140km/h from a 1.2l turbo triple mild hybrid. Not bad but I’m looking forward to getting back into the Skoda

I bought a 2020 Octavia with 2.0 TDI ( DSTA / EA288 EVO ) and DSG DQ381. I drove around for couple of weeks and everything was good, engine didn't make weird noises etc. I was actually surprised how smooth mild and quiet engine sounded for a diesel. I then went to Škoda dealer and got the timing belt, water pump replaced as kilometrage was just over 120 000km and 6 years had passed. At first I did not notice anything but slowly I started hearing more and more different noises coming from the engine. I don't know if I was deaf before? Anyway I hear very faint high pitch ticking when I press accelerator and some other weird noises I can't describe. But what bothers me the most is that old Transit van rattle that was not there before. This not only happens when engine is cold but can even happen when engine is fully warmed up after 30 minutes of driving. Other times it's decently quiet and not noticeable at all for some reason? And in some cases this rattle is EXTRA loud. Can happen while accelerating or even driving at steady rpm. Also there is odd clunk that sounds like knock when I am stationary and tap the accelerator quickly. Video below. Possible DMF related? Tell me if I am just crazy and it always was there or whether there is actually something wrong. Anyway couple of videos. Transit van like rattle at mild acceleration. 5-10 minutes after cold start. In some cases sounds 3x as loud. Phones microphone is not very good at picking up the sound. Clunk / knock:

Possible Causes & Diagnostic Steps 1. Bent or Rusted Brake Dust Shield: Why it happens: The metal plate behind the brake disc rusts easily on Felicias. If it is slightly bent or has accumulated rust around its perimeter, it comes into contact with the rotating rotor. When you turn the steering wheel, the microscopic shifting of the wheel causes it to touch or move away. What to do: Jack up the car, remove the wheel, and gently push the shield backward (away from the rotor) using a screwdriver. Clean off any flaking rust that might be rubbing against the disc. 2. CV Joints / Axle: Why it happens: A worn outer CV joint can produce a metallic noise that changes depending on the steering wheel angle. What to do: Inspect the rubber boots for any tears. If the grease has leaked out or water/dirt has gotten inside, the joint dries out and causes friction. 3. Suspension Mounts and Bushings (Control Arm Bushings): Why it happens: If the control arm bushings are worn out ("sagged"), the entire suspension strut shifts under load (e.g., at 60-80 km/h due to aerodynamic pressure and rolling resistance). This alters the alignment of the components, causing friction that disappears as soon as you turn. What to do: Use a pry bar to check for play (looseness) in the control arm bushings and the ball joints. 4. Improperly Seated or Defective New Wheel Bearing: Why it happens: Even though it was replaced, if the bearing was not pressed completely straight (properly seated) into the steering knuckle, the wheel hub may sit at a slight angle. This causes the brake rotor to wobble and rub against the brake pads. This explains why light braking makes the noise disappear.

Make & Model: Skoda Fabia Mk1 52-plate Colour: Energy Blue Mileage: 114589 Price: £1195 Description: 2002 Fabia classic fastback 1.4MPI Condition: Surprisingly tidy for age, virtually no body rust. Pictures below, but additional ones can be taken on request. MOT due Sept 2027 Basic model with no central locking or electric windows. Engine runs nicely and pulls well. Could be a lovely easy start to a project, or just a 'good to go' vehicle for anyone who doesn't mind simplicity. Private Message me please or post here with questions. Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Haven't owned it for long, but swapped out coolant tank and coolant for fresh. Serviced and brakes all attended to. New rocker cover gasket to fix oil leak. Leaky rear door fixed. 5J 14" steel wheels upgraded to 6J; 185/60/14 tyres in good condition, including matching spare. Extras: N/A Mods: N/A Shipping: N/A Collection: Yes, Highworth SN6 Pictures:

There is a Derby based manufacturer of struts, several years ago I bought a pair for my Yeti, they are still going strong. I can't find their contact details currently but maybe someone else might have their details! Do a google search on SGS Raynesway Derby

Is it possible to send me also the link

Same warning light comes on yellow to indicate low level, as read by sensor in sump. Some older engines may not have level/temperature sender in sump, but most do. Any that can be set to variable/longlife service schedule will have it.

i remember advice from my old garage that if the oil light comes on on newer skoda/vw damage is being done as its based on oil pressure not oil level. You should stop engine and check oillevel immediatley as oil level could be critically low On older cars you had an oil level sensor and oil pressure so you get a bit more warning when level was low. My old volvo 940 used to ping up warning if I took corners too hard. Alasdair

The link you quoted advertises a Skoda Fabia 2015-2026 spare-wheel/tool-kit, suggesting suitability for a Fabia Mk3 (2014-2020) AND a Fabia Mk4 (2021-2026). The accompanying photo refers to a Skoda Fabia (NJ). NJ is the Type reference for a Fabia Mk3 (the Fabia Mk4 has a Type reference of PJ.) and the jack shown in the photo is clearly the compact 'cantilever' design used with the MK3 and unusable with Mk4 cars. The 'scissors' jack in the Fabia Mk4 tool-kit could probably be used with a Fabia Mk3, but not vice versa. I had a look at the 'official' spare-wheel/tool-kit in my 2023-built Fabia Mk4 to see if I could spot a tool-kit Part Number, but, although there had obviously been a paper label stuck on the top surface of the polystyrene 'box', this was no longer there. Anyway, I'm sure that the correct Part Number for a Mk4 tool-kit is 6VA093860A My car has the standard 15"-diameter steel wheel fitted with a 185/65 R15 tyre and there is a reasonable amount of space between the tyre's tread and the sides of the spare-wheel well. However, when inserting my spare-wheel into the wheel-well, it needs to be slid beneath a plastic trim-piece at the rear of the luggage compartment (ie, on the rear bumper side) and I'm not sure if a wider 195/55 tyre would allow this to happen. The other caveat relates to the polystyrene 'box', A Fabia Mk4's luggage-compartment floor is just made of thin hardboard and weight placed on it is supported by raised areas on the top of the polystyrene box (some of those areas are green-marked on the image below). If a wider wheel/tyre were used, it's likely that the polystyrene box would sit higher up and the floor would not close properly. But I don't see this as a major problem, as modifying the box (ie. reducing the height of the raised areas) should not be difficult.

You can try to desolder vcc...

It's mounted high up on the engine facing downwards into a vertical threaded hole , so it wouldn't surprise me if oil drained away from it after engine shutdown.

I bought some for my Octavia on Ebay. Weren't expensive and worked fine.

I can top that, though not VW group. My sister has a Peugeot 107 which - twice in my recent experience - has been 2 litres low with a 3.1 litre capacity without putting the level warning light on. I don't hold out a lot of hope for a long future for this particular (1KR) engine. Sounded like it was sorely missing this oil before the latest top-up.

Hello, first of all, thank you very much for your reply. The car has been checked several times by different mechanics. It doesn't make this noise when stationary, and it doesn't happen all the time while driving either. When it does occur, it starts suddenly and stops as soon as I apply the brakes. That's why we focused on the brake pads and discs, but unfortunately, replacing them didn't solve the problem.

Just had a thought. Can you set the map/nav view as a background in the virtual cockpit on the FL VRS? On later pre-FL the mapping can be shown in the virtual cockpit (alas not my early build ).

Hello, I have tried but with no luck, I can not connect programmer to read the chip as the pins 3 and 4 (HOLD and VSS) are shorted together. Any ideas why? Everything is the same, both hardware and firmware versions as Yours. Maybe the IC is locked somehow (via software or hardware). Any helps is appreciated.

Update to this - I have now returned to the same position as previous. Despite the setting being enabled, I pull up to a junction and Park Assist kicks in. It would seem my car has it's share of software gremlins, that which I've recorded now as follows: Park Assist permanently on when auto setting turned off in the settings Fan speed keeps resetting to speed 4 each time vehicle is switched off/on (I set it to manual - speed 2) Continually over sensitive collision warning (went off again earlier, triggered by man walking his dog on the path parallel to the straight road...) Lane assist refuses to switch off completely - first setting I switch off when I start the vehicle, certain points on my routes to work where I can feel it grabbing the wheel I also have a squeaky drivers seat after 11k (I'm 11 stone btw, hardly excessive weight) - not experienced this before in any vehicle I've owned I know I'm in the minority here - none of these issues are show-stoppers but do take the edge of the enjoyment of the vehicle. None of these are really worth taking to the dealer yet either - I will tie in with a service visit but as I'm on long-life servicing, that won't be for another few months yet. ☹️

Hello Looking for advice on where to source replacement tailgate struts for a 2017 Citigo. The units currently on the car no longer hold up the tailgate and it falls back so looking for a good on line supplier. Local Europarts way too expensive.

Your car has manual HVAC and the other controller is for auto HVAC - so a lot more work needing doing than “plug and play” - but I think that some people have accepted this challenge!

MK2 Fabia vRS sometimes had a low oil pressure light or message come on when cornering before you ever got a low oil light or message which might not show untill 1.3 litres low. And when you get a low oil or low oil message or light and open the bonnet it is then extinguished for 100km/62 miles.

Hi @pab567 and everyone, Could someone please share a download link for the complete MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T firmware package for installation via SD card? My unit details are: Car: Škoda Fabia III, 2016 Infotainment: Bolero, without navigation, one SD card slot Part number: 5Q0035840B Hardware version: H30 Current software: 0353 Current software train: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0353T Android Auto already works. I am looking for the original firmware update package, rather than the Toolbox or a FEC/SWaP patch. Could you also confirm whether this unit supports a direct update from 0353 to 0369 using the standard SD card update procedure? A download link by private message would be appreciated. Thank you for your help! Štefan

You said previously there was no oil at switch/sensor when you replaced it. Might be worth removing it and start car to see. I assume oil should come out. Not sure how much so be prepared for spillage?? Alasdair

My long-term average is 39.5 over 11.5k. I easily get 46 mpg for long runs (500 miles) to the in-laws sticking to speed limits (fairly certain if you wanted to sit at 60mph on the inside lane you'd see 50 but this isn't for me). Actually better than I was expecting before I got the car. My usage involves daily 20 mile runs to/from work with a mixture of roads with a fair few short stop-start ones over weekends. All includes some heavier throttle usage where the roads permit.

Hallo zusammen, ich beschäftige mich gerade mit der Idee, schwer erhältliche oder unverhältnismäßig teure Kunststoff-Ersatzteile für Fahrzeuge nachzukonstruieren und bei Bedarf mittels 3D-Druck herstellen zu lassen. Ich bin auf eure Diskussion über die defekten Kunststoffteile an der mittleren Lüftungsdüse des Škoda Octavia IV gestoßen. Bevor ich Zeit und Geld in eine mögliche Ersatzlösung investiere, möchte ich zunächst herausfinden, ob dafür tatsächlich Bedarf besteht. Dazu hätte ich ein paar Fragen: Zum Defekt Welches konkrete Kunststoffteil ist bei euch gebrochen? Habt ihr Fotos vom defekten Teil oder eventuell eine Teilenummer? Bei welchem Fahrzeug tritt das Problem auf (Baujahr, Modell und Ausstattung)? Funktioniert die Lüftungsdüse ansonsten noch, oder muss wegen des Defekts die komplette Einheit getauscht werden? Zur Ersatzteilversorgung 4. Habt ihr das Originalteil einzeln beim Händler oder online gefunden? Falls ja, unter welcher Teilenummer und zu welchem Preis? 5. Falls nur die komplette Lüftungseinheit angeboten wird: Was kostet diese bei eurem Händler beziehungsweise online? 6. Habt ihr bereits Ersatzlösungen, Reparatursets oder 3D-Druckmodelle ausprobiert? Falls ja, welche und mit welchem Ergebnis? Zur möglichen Reparaturlösung 7. Würdet ihr ein passgenaues, separat erhältliches Ersatzteil kaufen, wenn dadurch der Austausch der kompletten Einheit vermieden werden könnte? 8. Welchen Preis würdet ihr für ein solches Teil als angemessen ansehen, sofern es zuverlässig passt und funktioniert? 9. Gibt es weitere Besitzer mit demselben Defekt, die ebenfalls nach einer Lösung suchen? Ich habe aktuell noch kein fertiges Ersatzteil und möchte auch keine fertige Lösung versprechen. Zunächst geht es darum, den Defekt und die Nachfrage besser zu verstehen. Wenn sich daraus eine technisch sinnvolle Lösung ergibt, würde ich einen Prototyp entwickeln und testen lassen. Über Fotos, Teilenummern, Links zu Angeboten und eure Erfahrungen würde ich mich sehr freuen. Vielen Dank! Hello everyone, I am currently exploring the idea of reverse-engineering plastic vehicle parts that are difficult to source or disproportionately expensive, and having them produced via 3D printing when needed. I came across your discussion regarding broken plastic components in the central air vent of the Škoda Octavia IV. Before I invest time and money into a potential replacement solution, I would like to determine whether there is actual demand for it. To that end, I have a few questions: Regarding the defect: 1. Which specific plastic part has broken? 2. Do you have photos of the damaged component, or perhaps a part number? 3. Which vehicle is affected (model year, model, and trim level)? Does the air vent still function otherwise, or does the entire unit need to be replaced due to the defect? Regarding parts availability: 4. Have you been able to find the original part sold individually—either at a dealership or online? If so, what is the part number and the price? 5. If only the complete air vent unit is available, what is the cost at your dealership or online? 6. Have you already tried any alternative solutions, repair kits, or 3D-printed parts? If so, which ones, and what were the results? Regarding a potential repair solution: 7. Would you purchase a precisely fitted, standalone replacement part if it meant avoiding the need to replace the entire unit? 8. What price would you consider reasonable for such a part, assuming it fits and functions reliably? 9. Are there other owners with the same defect who are also looking for a solution? I do not currently have a finished replacement part, nor am I promising a ready-made solution. At this stage, the goal is simply to better understand the defect and the level of demand. If this leads to a technically sound solution, I would develop a prototype and have it tested. I would greatly appreciate any photos, part numbers, links to listings, or insights based on your own experiences. Thank you very much! @KS000 auf Englisch bitte. Das ist die Standardsprache für Briskoda. Es stehen zahlreiche kostenlose Übersetzungstools zur Verfügung. Danke.