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I reckon that using chains is a "last gasp" activity, involving getting numb fingers and hands, using lots of time to fit, then finding somewhere to pull over and remove when conditions dictate that. I've only ever used snow chains on one car, a 1979 Ford Escort 1.6 Ghia and they were used with "normal tyres" - they served their purpose, but I never ever bought new ones for later cars. Winter tyres on "one size down" tends to be the smart solution for people that think that they might end up in trouble - typically if you need to resort to using snow chains, your probably attempting to drive on unploughed snow covered roads, and eventually the underside of the car is going to make contact with the snow and so slow you down or stop you, and now you've blocked the road for snow clearing teams and emergency vehicles. Would Snocks ie snow socks not be a better idea?

I charge on a Gridserve charger on Thursday. Think it was about 87p per kwh. Had done 200 miles from Worcester to Dartmoor and was just getting a part charge to get me back to Worcester. Yes expensive compared to other chargers but very good site, good cgarging speed of about 100 KW, went from 25% to 90% in half an hour, M&S on site, still waiting to see the bill, Gridserve took a tenner deposit and still waiting 4 days later for the actual amount to appear which should be a £35. I have been ripping up petrol receipts over 5 years old and rarely are they for less than £50 and that is for Fabias and Octavias and they have quite small tanks. Running EVs is saving me and the family hundreds of pounds a montn I reckon.

So they got 4 times the range and they 'might' be able to get the charge costs down to a quarter meaning it would be even Stevens... Anything less and the EV would be more expensive.

Ah... Only a BSc... That explains it (as you might have said) 🤣

Doing this will only be a first look at the system especially while it is running under load, you should be able to check for typical running (high side) pressure for the fridge gas in your system, online - ambient temperature dependent.

Is it a tariff when they pay you? So many ways both with home and public charges to get the headline costs to half, third, quarter or less, something one cannot do with fossil fuels. Not rocket science, just a little planning with great financial rewards. More money to spend on other things.

They should do it again starting at a Gridserve or Applegreen charger

I used to have a dog that would lock the back doors, when they had a button to push down

You can read AC system pressure with OBD eleven, I did it last week to confirm I have a partially depleted system.

Indeed but only for those with home chargers and the right tariff. Those public charger costs you mentioned would have evened thing up and possibly even swung the answer the other way.

See my answer above. Could have been done much cheaper the Inogen Bhogal (BSc Hons) quoted ie free or even got paid £5 for what she used if on an even better Octopus tariff !

You mention one side of the coin but there are plenty of other factors on the other side of the coin. More homes, those without drives, are getting approval to have cable channels through the pavement and the install grant has now been upped to £500 from £350 I gather.... https://www.birminghammail.co.uk/motoring/motoring-news/uk-households-without-driveways-handed-34073227 You may be a bit more limited in low population density areas like Northern Scotland but there are plenty of Public charging places where you can charge for less 65p a KWh. MFG are currently doing 59p per Kwh for the next 2 months, BE.EV is oft at 49p a KWh, sadly Southern Scotland is a close as they get to Northern Scotland, TESLA BRUM are charging 23p a KWh for much of the time at Frankley, M5 J3 Brum. The 3p a mile, when it comes in in 20 months time, looks like it will not be onerous. if one under estimates the mileage one does and only catches up when the annual reporting is done, has the money in a savings count to cover when due, pays on a credit card as some government sites allow and get some kick back. definitely get me to check my tyres more to check inflation and replace at 3mm tread to maximise rolling radius. Also, as I mentioned before, I and I suspect other EVs will choose the shorter routes through villages and towns to bring down the mileage rather than go the slightly quicker long way way round on the A roads and motorways. I think the mileage policy could backfire badly. Imogen Bhogal, BSC Hons, charged on a Octopus GO or IOG tariff it looks like so the 52 KWh R5 battery could be charged for a £5. I charge our R5, Scenic and Mini on the cheapest going rate on Octopus Agile which is sometimes, oft this summer, less than the Octopus GO or IOG, rate, sometimes about 5p a KWH, sometime about zero P per KWh and sometimes as low as minus 10 p per KWh so the Lincoln to Exeter I would have been paid £5 for the electricity used in that journey. Balcony / Plug in solar, especially when linked to upcoming home batteries, from Octopus-CATL, can mean most doing some charging from solar via home batteries. looking forward to the zero rating of home electricity in 58 days but frightened just much diesel, gas and petrol will cost and effect cost of living. Need to look more in to Heat Pump.

No surprise there given ait was effectively a rigged test using cheap overnight charging compared to full cost liquid fuel. And ONLY achievable in that scenario.

Scrap yard/ car breakers.

Coming back to this, when I initially read @PetrolDave 's response, I (mis?)understood "a diagnostic tool" to mean something specific to the high-pressure gas system, but, did you mean an OBD-II reader e.g. the OBDeleven that I own? I asked Google the question of whether modern cars actively monitor A/C system gas charge/pressure, etc, and came up with: https://autoacrepair1.com/how-can-i-check-my-cars-air-conditioning-systems-freon-level-without-opening-the-hood/ .. which comments: "You cannot accurately confirm your car’s exact refrigerant charge without accessing the A/C system with proper service equipment. An OBD-II scanner may show A/C pressure-sensor data, compressor commands, clutch status, evaporator temperature, and diagnostic trouble codes, but these readings only provide diagnostic clues. They do not directly measure how much refrigerant is inside the system." I'm aware that the OBDII information includes 08 - Air Conditioning, but what I haven't found is how complete is the monitoring done by the Octavia III (Facelift), in the sense of "Occasionally spending the time to have an OBDII device read the A/C control unit is actually likely to help you notice an impending A/C problem before you notice that the system isn't cooling properly"? Any thoughts? thanks,

Unfortunately, there is very little compatibility between vehicles in terms of tow hitches ... it's a curse, really 🤪

Hi there, My car has the rear heated seats factory fitted and I have no message on the MIB when the buttons are pressed.

I search a lot regarding this topic, I also want to get rid of that but I don't think there is a way. I found something which I tried on my car but without any success: 💻 Hide parking sensor image overlay by default 5F → Long Coding → Byte: 16 → Bit: 7 → enable (hide sensors overlay by default)

^^^ Social Divide. Yes pay with the right Tariff. Home Charge fill up for £5. But if paying 65 pence a kWh Public charging gives you 7.7 kWh or just less. times 5 miles a kWh is 38.5 miles with the BEV. 75 pence a kWh is 33 miles from 6.6 kWh getting 5 miles a kWh. Coming soon to a BEV you might be driving an ADDITIONAL 3 pence a mile charge. (7.7 kWh getting 4 miles a kWh is only about 31 miles for £5.) That is real world BEV driving for many many people once the Cheap Battery fill has gone, if you ever had the very cheap charge up in the first place. PAY PER MILE. £5 for 31 miles then the additional 3 pence X 31 miles 93 pence. £5.93. Petrol at 163 pence a litre.. 3 litres for £5. 10 miles a litre =30 miles.

Did the same few years ago, no errors and the camera still works.

Hi all, I'm looking for a bit of advice on my 2013 Skoda Octavia Mk3 vRS 2.0 CUPA engine. I'm getting fault codes P0101 (MAF sensor range/performance) and P0401 (EGR insufficient flow). Has anyone experienced these two fault codes together? Could one fault be causing the other, and what would you recommend checking first? I'm thinking maybe an Egr that is sticking open, so maybe trying to remove and clean it might help, are there any good guides for my particular engine? Any advice or common causes would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Imogen Bhogal, first class Mech Eng science degree from Oxford, in the well selling R5, and her husband, Deep Bhogal, in a petrol Citroen. Both people are ex JLR engineering staff. Not quite even as he is much bigger / heavier than Imogen but the range achieved is so much it would have made little difference (spoiler, more than 4 times) swapping drivers around......... (I wanted pop green but my ordered car got damaged in transit so had to swap to yellow and very happy except for the extra £800 cost but should get back if I ever sell, but not planning to).

Hello everyone i would be really happy if someone will help me with finding gear knob for skoda octavia 1 RS this is the code for the product :1U0711141P IF You will find something hit me up please

@26DIPP Is this for use abroad in a region where Snow Chains must be carried and fitted if sign posted to use Snow Chains? Fitting them is a plaster and time consuming. Making it more awkward is simply not clever. Clearance with clean chains is one thing, but what is important is the size / clearance once the chains get snowed up and the wheel arches do and the area between wheel and where the mud flaps would be fitted if fitted. There have been threads over the years with other Skoda Models and Snow Chains fitted to bigger Wheels / Tyres than the SKODA Recommended ones.

They are lit by LED, same type as on my UK 2020 SE model. LED strips hidden along the top inside, with thin daylight running light strip along the bottom. Surprised that both main and dipped beam stopped working. Maybe a wiring fault rather than the LED’s themselves?? Does the daylight strip light still work? Bad news - I believe- is that they are sealed, no way to change the LEDs.