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Hey All, I've been down this road before, but am trying it slightly differently this time! I've started a Skoda group on WhatsApp. There's only 20 of us or so currently, but I'm looking to expand. We're from all over Europe (UK, Poland, Germany, Cz, Serbia, etc), and the group is really just to make friends with cool Skoda people! A meet(s) might come of it, but for the moment we're interested in making new friends, talking and having fun. I've no idea if it will interest anyone on here, but if it does, please drop a reply below, or send me a PM and I can add you. Occy

Further update: Yes, Breezy_Pete. Just done a test and the lights on audible warning does work.

try https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ Look at original manufacturer diagrams and put in your vin. Should come up with correct part fitted. May need to look at PR code sticker in boot if its there to confirm Alasdair

Hi, Did the software update fix your issue? I have a Kodiaq 2.0tsi 200bhp DTUA with the exact same issue…

Hi, I own a skoda superb mk3 2016, which was pre-owned. The steering rack has a play when moving on rough roads or in stationary moving led and right. All tie rod ends etc where replaced, but didn't solve the problem. The rack part number on mine 3Q2 423 051H. But skoda showroom is telling it's not the correct part number of my model. They are saying it is 5Q2 423 055 L. Please help me find the correct part number. Looking to buy a used rack from a dismantled car. Car is RHD. Is 3Q2 or 5Q2 CORRECT part number. engine is CRGA 2.0 TDI 130kw

Hi, thanks. Ive changed the crank sensor (in the original pic, which is low down on back of the engine), spark plug and ignition coil in cyl 3 and still its turning over but not starting. Also charged battery and added extra fuel just in case. Any other ideas? MOT expires friday and big grey scrap heap is calling 😬

Tesla has bigger battery and more range but BYD charges quicker. Along with Mercedes trucks lets hope they compete and there is batter products. Both BYD and TESLA are masters at putting in infrastructure of course but dealing with the UK electricity network linking is oft a problem but both are also major battery pack producers so should be able to add 20 or 40 foot mega packs BESSs to support the 1.5 and 1.2 MW charging to keep down time low.

Hi @pab567 , Can you please help me get the latest firmware. Current version. Thank you...

I have had GT radial FE2 for a few years on my Octavias and also a Seat and pretty good tyre all round. Good in dry and wet. Sons got GT radial all season on his Fabia and also excellent in dry,wet and snow. Not too expensive either. Alasdair

Not sure on the roomster but on the octavia the rear swing arm bushes can fail/go soft and cause a weird bearing like noise as the rear end is out of alignment and the noise is tyres scrubbing as you drive. There are concentric bolts for the rear alignment to adjust camber and toe etc. Are the rear tyres wearing evenly? If the bushes have failed or worn the rear end may be out and tyres will wear unevenly. I would maybe get a four wheel alignment done and have the rear end bushes checked. Alasdair

Not sure, but there is a setting to enable the windows to close if it starts raining...

A heads up for you: did you know that eBay has a guarantee that if parts from their platform don't fit, you can return them FOC?

Can’t comment on him, but I travel over an hour to get to my usual service place. I pass about three dealers on the way!

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice regarding a recurring problem with my Skoda Octavia. Car details: Skoda Octavia II (1Z) Model/type: 1Z523C 2.0 TDI Common Rail Engine code: CFHC 103 kW / 140 hp Model year: 2013 I have been having recurring problems with the throttle valve/throttle actuator for several years. The throttle valve has already been replaced three times, approximately at two-year intervals. What concerns me now is that after the third replacement, the fault has returned after only about five months. The current diagnostic scan shows the following faults: P2100 – Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open Status: Active/Static P2111 – Throttle Actuator Control System – Stuck Open Status: Passive/Intermittent P242C – Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low, Bank 1 Sensor 3 Status: Passive/Intermittent The P242C fault is new. During the previous throttle valve failures, I only had faults related to the throttle system; there was no exhaust gas temperature sensor fault. After having replaced the throttle valve three times, and with the latest one apparently developing a fault after only five months, I am starting to wonder whether the throttle valve itself is really the root cause. Could there be an underlying problem causing repeated throttle actuator failures, for example a wiring/connector or electrical supply problem, an EGR/intake-related issue, excessive contamination, or something else specific to the CFHC engine? I’m also interested to know whether anyone has seen P2100/P2111 together with P242C on this engine. Could the EGT sensor/circuit fault somehow be related to the recurring throttle problem, or are these most likely two independent issues? Before replacing the throttle valve for a fourth time, I would really like to understand why this keeps happening. Has anyone experienced something similar on a CFHC 2.0 TDI, or can suggest what should be checked next? Thanks in advance for any technical advice or experience. Best regards Luca

The Sat Nav knew the road was closed as it was showing as closed, I suspect because I had entered a rural post code it was too vague to determine a reasonable alterative route. I was coming from the north west and the closed road ran horizontally, I knew the parallel road to the north and once I got to a position roughly north of the post code it then produced the correct route. I find the built in Sat Nav is generally very good. Where I live we get a lot of temporary dynamic road closure during the day which may only last 1-3 hrs. The built in Sat Nav is very good at reporting these and roads with slow moving traffic - its almost like its using data from other vehicle with the same Sat Nav system.

I think @MarioVrs has an issue with the fact that the wrong parts have been delivered and now questioning that. The thing I find is that they give you every part under the sun - even when you've selected a vehicle and that should filter out what you want: my example was the Superb 280 is 340mm front discs and 310mm rears. All other Superbs (4x4 and FWD) are 312mm front and 300mm rear. Despite the autodoc website knowing I have my car selected, they would list all of the size options. Fine if you know what to look for, but for a layman who wants to buy rear discs and doesn't spot the difference then that's where the issues arise. That isn't necessarily an Autodoc thing solely - all sellers seem to not be able to differentiate between the 3 different versions of the EA888 engine in the 280 from pre to post FL. But I think this thread is that Autodoc's customer service and ease of return more than offsets any saving over popping down to the local GSF etc.

Whilst I've not had issues with AutoDoc in terms of delivery and the like I'd reinforce the need to be very careful in terms of due diligence on parts and part numbers. A search on a particular vehicle, or even a particular part number can come up with a lot of 'variations on a theme' so it's important to drill down into the further info that is available on the webseite and to double and triple check that what you want is what you are seeing offered on screen. My example re the above is with the rear arch liners for my daughter's Citigo - they're what I wanted, look to be suitable and arrived on time, are vastly cheaper than the OE parts but are clearly 'pattern' parts that 'will fit' but that are not an exact copy of the OE part. In my case the difference is that the OE part has the appropriate fitting screw holes already in them making finding the corresponding holes in the chassis and mounting them easier, whereas the ones I ordered don't have the fitting holes and I'll need to do the reverse - find the chassis holes and then drill the liners to suit. That wasn't clear from the website and just makes things slightly more complicated (albeit not bad enough to warrant returning them given the price differential!). Also I'd suggest a careful check of AutoDoc against other suppliers such as ILLParts - as prices can vary and I found some parts were cheaper at the other suppliers.

Today only a short trip out to fill the tank, as usual within a few yards of travel the 'update' message appeared, this was an ideal opportunity to do the install when I got back & parked up in the garage overnight, however the plan was not straightforward, once back home for the life of me I could not find any way to get 'Update' back on the screen, I must have been sat over half an hour pushing buttons, cursing Laura [no help at all] going through the manual, still no wiser which info out of 3 screen I've got if it makes a difference. Eventually managed to get UPDATE appear at the top left of the screen, gave it a press with no response, should it at least tell you its in progress ? Anyway, did as informed, got out and locked the car, now got crossed fingers

I have had a few minor issues with AD but nothing too bad if you pay for the "safe order", normally a few quid, then returns are free should you need to send stuff back, they just send you a link you print out the label, package it up and drop it off at the post office. Never had any issues in that regard. The only thing I have complained about it swapping some parts out for cheaper ones due to "availability" and not telling me and also not getting a refund for the difference but they were quick to resolve that issue as well. As noted above it is crucial to due relevant due diligence on parts and part numbers as I had an issue with the dig bone bush as there are two and I ordered the wrong one and didn't realise until it wouldn't fit in the subframe. I will note that experiences do seem to vary an awful lot.

Meant to add its sometimes tricky to see if a fuse is blown especially the micro ones with it in place. Easier if its removed. Alasdair

Breaker bar plus decent six point socket. Or maybe a passing scaffolder. Front pads more commonly have the wire in. If the light comes on, change the pads soonish (unless the wire has got chewed somehow and is shorting itself out).

Autodoc have many different businesses online (looking like UK based firms) but the same problems can arise. Look carefully at the delivery times and ask Ai where the business is based if in doubt. I always find out first the correct VW or Skoda part number and make sure I know exactly what the part looks like. This last bit can rule out mistakes which the sellers often make in their listings.

If you put a fuse in the wrong place there should be an empty socket with two terminals/contacts inside the socket for the fuse to connect to. Blank/unused fuse spaces tend to only have one or none at all. I had a look at the picture close up and cant see any with double contacts empty so maybe a fuse is in the right place and has blown. Did you pull fuses with battery connected as it can cause certain ones to blow. Also check the fuses in engine compartment near battery. Alasdair

When roadworks have closed a road Google Maps has always shown an alternative route. Google maps is constantly updated as apposed to built-in sat-nav having periodic updates.

While I am no fan of Autodoc, if you know exactly what you want (as opposed to asking Autodoc staff), parts are cheap and of good quality and I have used them several times in the past. The trouble being that "knowing exactly what you want" means down to an exact original manufacturer's part number, not just a Skoda part number. It costs quite a bit more research on internet. Autodoc do have an add on where you pay a bit more and can return unused parts within 6 months with them paying the return shipping, so if you have doubts best to use this service. For Skoda parts when I want to get exactly what is needed, I have been using a Czech shop skoda-parts.com for many years now. Consistently very good service and parts advice providing both original Skoda parts and good quality alternatives, and when they mess up even a tiny bit, they ship replacements without fuss. I steer clear of most UK parts shops nowadays, as sadly, the prices seem to be marked up 50%+. For example, a few months ago I have actually bought 2 Lesjofors suspension springs with delivery to the UK at skoda-parts.com for the price of an identical single Lesjofors spring at e.g. GSF and Eurocarparts. HTH