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What a load of total guff IMHO, unless maybe doing some world travelling in a region that is not the UK. Scotland just happens to have 32 local authorities and many of these have no commitment to helping get to net zero with the upkeep of public ev chargers. £5 minimum charge here and i am at £6 after nearly 3 hours. Now 12 kWh of a charge. The other car must have unplugged and now i am getting 6 kW i expect.

Getting economic and logical to carry a power station and ones own solar panels perhaps. With the right battery ie one that can supply 3.7 kws, and granny cable doing 16A and maybe some foldout portable solar panels one can have an onboard backup in the boot. Also versions of onboard software coming out every few months and updated battery packs every 2 years the problem goes away.

I think they went a bit mad and stripped stuff out in the 24 model year facelift - our late 23 SEL has front parking sensors and I recall there was other stuff missing from the facelift version. I forget what now - did they come down a level in the digital dash? I was surprised the Kamiq SEL came with one as standard that was a hefty upgrade cost in Karoq SEL. So I guess they've gradually brought stuff back.

To be fair, you’d be able to check the oil on any flat surface, be it the cargo hold of a 747 or the deck of an aircraft carrier.

That is not what you want to see is it, so further delays in getting a decent charge

I'm trying to troubleshoot a niggle with my 2006 Octavia VRS, that only happens when starting the car after it's already warm. I'll try get a decent video/audio of the symptoms as soon as I can, but wondered/hoped if anyone would recognise the problem from a brief description. Octavia VRS 2.0 TFSI / MK2 2006 / EA113 / BWA / Manual / 123k miles / Stage 1 remap. 2-3 second stumble/chugging sound when engine is started whilst already being warm/recently used. Sounds like the engine is either getting too much or not enough of something, before sorting itself out and settling. Normal cold starts are generally fine. Normal running/driving is fine and still pulls strongly. Symptoms first occurred in May 2026 - the first day of the really hot weather (I'd spent around four hours throughout the day driving mostly short journeys, some fairly "spirited" driving). No relevant error codes. Work already done in the last 12 months (some required, some preventative maintenance): cam belt and water pump, four new injectors, cam follower, PCV, intake carbon clean, spark plugs, coil packs, stage 1 remap and diverter valve (GFB DV+), new battery, EVAP valve checked and clear, vacuum system passed a smoke test. Other minor niggles: throttle lift-off/overrun feels a little rough/jerky sometimes; temp gauge sometimes drops to 70-80 on motorway journeys. My local garage have had the car in twice for diagnostics and couldn't identify the problem. Had it earlier this week, after I asked them to check for the thermostat sticking/failing, to double-check the EVAP valve, and to check that the GFB DV+ diverter valve wasn't sticking (all suggestions from forum research, and ChatGPT/Gemini), but the garage couldn't find anything obviously wrong. I was very tempted to get them to replace the thermostat and EVAP/N80 valve anyway, since they're fairly inexpensive (parts and labour), but they advised that unless I want a full engine rebuild, it's probably best to stop chasing little niggles if the car generally runs fine. A separate VW/Skoda/Audi specialist also had the car for a week (a couple of months ago, to replace the fuel injectors and perform a carbon clean/walnut blast) and couldn't replicate the chugging sound either. Presumably because they didn't restart the car after it was already warm. They also mentioned that the intake manifold motor/actuator was sticking a bit, so they took it out, cleaned it up, lubricated, etc and put it back in (doing whatever reset/coding was necessary too), and said to keep an eye on any related error codes popping back up. So far, nothing. Does this startup chugging sound familiar to anyone? I'm trying to not just throw parts at it and hope for the best, as I've spent enough already. I'd just like to get these last few niggles sorted out, then I can relax a bit - until the next time, haha! Thanks in advance. I'm very much not a mechanic - just stuff I've read online. Any help is greatly appreciated.

PS. So 45 minutes & it had charged 2.2 kWh. The other car plugged in is a 28 kW 2020 Hyundai Ionic and with 22 kW charger is only giving us 3 kW each not even 6 kW each. So likely in 5 hours plugged in max I get is 15 kW at 55 pence a kWh. I will be heading 4 miles to the Farm Shop to get a charge in the DC @ 55 pence a kWh.

You have two. One for ICE and second for HV. HV one is connected to AC circuit via heat exchanger and dumping heat there.

Girvan harbour DC charger only 1 in town and 5 weeks I have been reporting out of service. Today I was there early before some teacher would put on AC charger all day even though max 5 hours. Car get charged and stays plugged in locked in. Not even moved at lunch time. So one car charging on B. Post A fails to start. I try 3 times. Then 3 times with electroverse. Then call CPS. Poor mobile reception area. Get the usual script. A fault with your card. I used it yesterday. Close windows and lock doors. I tell him that makes no difference and never ever has. He tells me charger working and he can not start remotely. I told him he can he is on a mobile to me and he is in Broughty Ferry and the SIM in the charger gets a signal. Phone goes dead. Charger starts. I try calling back as I want to report the big charger. No signal. Then he calls me. I give him charger number and he says he will check. He says out if service 4 weeks. I said 6 and 5 since I first reported. Line went dead. Got a call to do satisfaction survey just now.

Hi! Yes it was normal to behave like this, the ECU won't turn on the fan every single occasion to save battery but if connected to charger will use this opportunity to cool down. I understood there are complex cooling mechanisms which involve different conditions like HV battery level, outside temperature, etc. There are three cooling circuits if I am not wrong, one for battery, one for ICE and a third one (smaller radiator in front of the big one) for hybrid system. Once I also noticed the cooling agent was circulating while the car was stopped for a while. No issues since then, except an intermittent coolant sensor wire that ocasionally started the cooling fan but this issue was different from my first observation.

I would replace sensor as there not that expensive and chances are if you have to change rear bearing the old sensor will be seized in and get ruined trying to remove. Cant see a crack. Soak sensor in penetrating oil for a day or two before trying to remove. Did the splash guard hit the sensor or cable or was it just wrapped round disc. It may have cracked sensor Alasdair

Sorry to post again, I've just looked at the images I took again, and I a) can see what I believe is some damage to the ring in this image but more concerning b) Is that a crack between the metalwork there or is it just the way I took the photo? Sorry to be a pain, thanks again.

@GREEBO_22 Thanks very much for that; I didn’t know that was an option and I’m sure many others didn’t either. 🙏 This was user error at the time and I’ve now sourced the correct pads at a cheaper price than Autodoc from Spareto in Estonia. They have very good feedback on Trustpilot. We’ll see how that turns out.

Hi all, Wondering if any of you could offer any advice? My partner on her return home from a night shift heard a noise and then was greeted by the traction control and abs lights on the dashboard. When I went out and removed the wheel to take a look, the brake dust shield (or what was left of it) had wrapped itself in around the disc. I've removed this and tried to clear the fault but it returns after a short while so I believe the ABS sensor is at fault (or at least I hope, because I guess the only other thing could be the reluctor ring being damaged), I've checked the voltage at the connector and it stays at battery voltage no matter how much I wiggle on the loom so I think the loom is okay. I went out and logged the wheel speeds reported and the rear left wheel dipped or deviated every so often from the other three wheels, but not rhythmically which makes me believe the reluctor is probably okay? (Please see attached graph image). The green lines are for the rear left ABS sensor. If anyone could offer any advice, or let me know if my thinking is sound I'd really appreciate it. Thanks so much for your time.

Hi good people, Anyone here kind enough to share a working download link for the MSTD_EU_SK_P6230.zip firmware file? Thanks for any respone :)

I managed to create a new Skoda ID and My Skoda app account (for the buyer) and indeed it let me activate again the 3 Month Free subscriptions for both Care Connect and Infotainment Online. (good to know, if you really need for a period of time the functions, basically they are free if you create a new account, activating the 3 months trial). Secondly, you were right! I managed to go back to initial charging times with the subscription by de-activating the ‘reduced charging current’ in the app. Thank you very much for the tip!

Found it. :)

I can’t help with third party sorry, it’s not something we’ve ever gotten involved with aside from removing them due to warranty issues

Curious feature this - can't find even a mention online - for Skoda to remove it on the latest vehicles does seem rather petty, can't imagine it saves anything.....? AI even gives this dismissal: "The Škoda infotainment system does not provide a real-time, active 3D visualization showing your bulbs physically illuminating."

I like that interior option on the right. It seems retro-modern , which I like !

Thanks for the reply. WRT the traffic conditions it may just have been a flag which needed resetting which occurred during the reset when I linked the car to the app. Must admit though whilst on the M62 today the number of 'men at work' symbols displayed on the screen made it look very 'busy' to say the least and I could understand why the previous owner may have disabled it (?) Re:climate control. I set mine exactly as you have before setting off, and it did retain those settings. I'll check the PIN situation tommorrow. Many thanks again

HI @numskull when ever ive bought springs and suspension parts from autodoc ive always paid for the "safe order" option it only costs a fraction but allows you the option to return unused item within 200 days ( 6.5 months) rather than 14 days

The screen that shows the release code on it. There are two screens that show that. 453.

I’ve just had revo stage 1 on my 23 VRs dsg petrol Wish I had it done ages ago Apart from the power, it’s a a much better car to drive feels a lot smoother As the tuner said it takes away all the fluffiness’s

I’ve brought a camera kit from AliExpress and will be fitting soon I can code and remove SFD Done a few Audis So this should be easy