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We bought it second hand when it was 6 years old with 118k miles, put another 150k miles on over 10 years, it was a 2009 car. Sold it a year ago.....great car.

In the process of servicing my 2016 Fabia SE, I managed to spill oil all over the foam-y cover over the sump (lesson learned, I shouldn't have been lazy and removed this!). The car passed its MOT last month with an oil leak advisory, which I'm 90% certain is just residual oil sitting in the saturated cover. I would like to replace this cover – if nothing else, so I can monitor a potential leak – but the OE part is frightfully expensive: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/04b103660c-oil-pan-lid-skoda-48047.html Does anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Or does a sump tray typically come with this cover? Or do you reckon it would survive a good cleaning? Sage advice much appreciated.

Does the mechanic know what the metal swarf is? (i.e. it's origin) Have they done any investigative work - maybe put a boroscope down cylinder 3 to see if there's anything obvious? A compression test? Checked the mains? If it's running fine, what symptoms do you have? Certainly metal filings in the oil is not good news. But what makes the mechanic advise the engine is toast, as oppose to repairable? Back in 2018, my then 2015 vRS TSI grenaded its turbo. The engine was flushed and the oil pump changed (amongst other items) as a precautionary measure, but the engine survived. Much younger engine than yours though and minimal swarf in the oil - most had been caught by a gauze filter. Maybe get a second opinion if you don't have all the facts. It's a big (and unwelcome) decision for sure. Best o' luck. Gaz

Hi everyone! I’m also interested in converting my Octavia III 1.6 TDI from a 5-speed to a 6-speed manual gearbox. Mine is a 2013 1.6 TDI CLHA, originally 105 hp. It has been remapped with an additional 50 hp (around 155 hp in total), and the DPF has also been removed. I bought it in 2021 for €2,900 with 170,000 km on the clock. It now has around 250,000 km. Recently, I’ve been having problems with the gearbox, especially when downshifting. Fourth, third and second gears are all becoming very difficult to engage. As far as I can tell, the clutch isn’t slipping and doesn’t seem to be in particularly bad condition. If the gearbox itself turns out to be the problem, I’d rather replace it with a compatible 6-speed gearbox instead of fitting another 5-speed one. My main goal would be to reduce engine RPM at motorway speeds, improve fuel economy and make better use of the extra power. Does anyone know which 6-speed gearbox would be the most compatible with my CLHA engine? I’d also like to know: Would I need anything else apart from the gearbox and gear selector/linkage? Can I keep my original driveshafts, gearbox mounts, clutch and flywheel? Would any ECU coding or other software changes be necessary? Has anyone actually completed this conversion on a front-wheel-drive 1.6 TDI? I’d really appreciate any advice, especially from anyone who has already done this conversion. Thanks in advance!

I agree speak to garage. A few hundred miles at a push maybe but thats more than driving from lands end to john o groats and back again. Sounds like its been put out maybe as a courtesy/demo car?? If you get no joy or fobbed off by garage I would take it up with Skoda direct. Alasdair

Thank you very much for your help! Your explanation was exactly what I needed, and I managed to remove the headrest successfully. I’m attaching two photos in case they help someone else with the same problem in the future. Thanks again! 👍

Over how many years was the 270K miles covered? Perhaps when the glow plugs seize into place it is time-related rather than mileage-related.

Thanks again for all the help here - first time on a car forum and great to know people are so friendly! @Evolution13 the quote was from a garage local(ish) to me that someone on a local Facebook group had recommended to someone else. They were great on the phone but it turned out to be a very posh/premium place full of Porsche’s etc. Their quote wasn’t quite £1k to be fair it was £150 diagnostics, £600 plus VAT for parts and labour and then another £80 for ‘retest’. The 2 pics showed the hoses then they sent me another load of advisories about the puncture canister being out of date and replacing the key battery. I wouldn’t care, but I also asked them to check the reverse switch as the car doesn’t seem to realise it’s in reverse, and they want to charge me another £150 to look at that separately! @imart143 I was thinking something similar. I have a friend who’s extremely handy with cars who could help me change the crankcase hose (found one online for £20 I think) and then just seal the gasoline hose with the tape you suggested (my amateur brain went to a glue gun and gorilla tape but this is probably better 😅). Any other ideas welcome. If anyone knows if this is the right hose to replace the bigger one in the pic for my peace of mind I’d be very grateful.

How do you mean?

First of all, THANKS, many many thanks. After a lot of testing and check VCDS, problem seems to be the "Lock malfunction". Anyway, I'll continue testing just to check if problem could be the wires or the entire piece... I’m attaching this in case it’s of any help to anyone in the future.... Update after further VCDS diagnosis: I have now reproduced the fault several times while monitoring the 6D measuring values. The most interesting finding is: IDE05229 - Reason for cancellation of rear lid procedure Last reason: Lock malfunction IDE09505-MAS09017 Tailgate lock: implausible counter It initially showed 1559, every failed opening attempt increased it by exactly one: 1559 → 1560 → 1561 → 1562 → 1563 → 1564 During a failed opening attempt the three latch states remain: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Closed Rear lid lock: Closed and the instrument cluster does not detect the boot as open. If I then slightly lift the tailgate manually, without another electrical command, the values change to: Pre-latch: Closed Main latch: Open Rear lid lock: Safety catch / pre-latch At exactly that point the boot open indication appears on the instrument cluster, and the implausible-lock counter does not increase. I also checked the closing-assist system separately: IDE09505-MAS09018 Closing assist implausible counter: 0 So at the moment VCDS appears to be pointing much more specifically towards the tailgate latch/lock or its state detection, rather than the pull-shut/closing-assist mechanism. Current stored DTC: B2010 00 - No Basic Setting Although the live measuring value IDE09495 currently reports the tailgate as Initialized. I'll continue diagnosing it before replacing any parts.

I think you are correct. My earlier model year karoq had this. Ion my 2025 sportline I've tried every virtual cockpit screen in every mode and the icon doesn't show. I guess skoda have decided to delete the option.

Grindy grindy noises last night. Have ordered overrun pulley for alternator along with tensioner and new aux belt this morning. 63k so about right for failure timing. Ordered INA parts for over run and tensioner kit with belt.

Very little chance of them pulling the injectors to test them in my opinion. I'd also think that the electrical bits, plug and coil, are much more likely to be the problem.

Thanks so much for the advice! I’m toying with that idea too. If they provide evidence for replacing and testing those parts, and most of the common fault components (cooling system) have been replaced in the last few months, then I feel like this might be an alright car to live with after this. Can never guarantee it though, obviously! So the Cinch warranty is free for 90 days, which covers any faults other than those classed as ‘general wear and tear’. Obviously it’s subjective as to what wear and tear is and isn’t, but this EPC light fault is being covered under warranty for example. There’s the option to extend the warranty up to 3 years also, at a cost of roughly £600 total. The 14 day money back guarantee runs out on the 19th October. Although, I’ve been doing some research and if the EPC fault came back after 14 days, legally I believe that Cinch would either have to replace, repair or refund me. Still doing my research into that though to confirm.

@Flosi example of adding stiffness without change clearance - Eibach Pro Kit from Kodiaq -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#findComment-5854160

in original, VAG have complete system with valve and its expensive, i had minor leaks and diassemble hoses from engine and this rubber is not bar, but plastic one have few leaks, i used selfvulcanization tape and I wrapped the entire ribbed pipe with it, 2 years ago, and everything is still fine. It's oil-based, this rubber fuel-based one never cracks. https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/p/d/b00011942/

@Cgwchris Was that local garage quoting near £1,000 to replace or a Skoda main Dealership? Was that after a Tech or Master tech inspecting the pipes?

I’m convinced the option has been removed by some software update on our 2024 model……..

It’s a while since I noticed it but I’m sure it something like ‘2 Cylinder Mode Active/Deactivated’…….

My colleague had the update done at the dealers but his car is still under warrenty. As this is clearly a SW bug perhaps they would at least start the update for older cars?? Gabbo

Hi imart143! Thanks so much for your help. Managed to find the oil vapour pipe online (Google told me it was also called a crankcase breather hose), but the gas one is proving a bit more difficult. Could anyone provide a link to the right replacement or suggest what else it might be called? Managed to find this which looks similar on eBay…is it that?

Many thanks for all the help from members. Europarts replied they do not have the part in stock but could find it so I advised them to let me know when had found it and I would purchase it. Alas nothing so far. Twinauto have not so far responded to my request. All other European suppliers have not been able to help. At present I am awaiting replies from the two Irish Skoda dealers. Its beginning to look like my only hope will be from reclaimers who may have it but what condition reclaim part are in must be a gamble. I have tried using a couple of Reclaimers but no luck. I am awaiting a reply from Skoda Customers Services as I gave them a considered response to there questionnaire they sent me and I advised them I was unhappy with the fact such an essential item as a part for the braking system was no longer produced was poor after service. As they say I think I am flogging a dead horse!

Both @NooxygeeN and @Dennn check your PMs for MEN2_EU_SKGPx_P0080L_8755 download link

Hello, I own a Fabia 3 (facelift model) with the 1.0L 110 hp engine and manual transmission, purchased new in 2020; it has covered about 37,000 km. A few weeks ago, a strange noise appeared, seemingly coming from the front of the car. The noise starts to occur after driving for about ten minutes. To me, the volume is clearly noticeable, but not loud enough to be picked up on a recording made with my mobile phone, as it gets drowned out by normal road noise (engine, tires, wind, etc.). It isn't a humming sound; it’s more like a rubbing or friction noise. Once it starts, it remains virtually constant in both volume and pitch: . regardless of vehicle speed (starting from around 20 km/h) . regardless of the gear engaged . whether the car is in gear, coasting (clutch disengaged), or in neutral . it doesn't change when shifting the load—testing by turning/loading the front-left and then front-right sides while driving at 70–80 km/h (I’m lucky enough to have stretches of good road nearby with smooth asphalt and relatively light traffic at certain times). Technicians at my Skoda dealership—where I just had the 6-year service done—said they took it for a test drive and didn't hear anything unusual. They also found no issues with the wheel bearings. The only option they offered was to run a diagnostic check for the tidy sum of €375.00. Before committing to that, I thought I’d check the forum to see if anyone might have an idea what the problem could be. I’ve searched online but haven't found any similar cases. Thanks for reading.

Another one here on a 2021 plate and still receiving the frequent small updates, and no sign of the biggie to fix it. Would be nice if it could be forced. I'm not putting non-official updates on either, these cars are bug-ridden as it is.