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My main problem with them is when reversing with a trailer attached. Because I have a dealer fit tow bar which isn’t coded, the brakes “don’t know the caravan is there,” and so keep applying. I have rooted around in the menus to turn them off for this manoeuvre but can’t find a way of doing it. How did you do it!?!

The manual says you can take the vents out with a small release tool. Remove switch first.

It's a grand morning - calm before the storm!

No

I assume it’s not on one of the b pillars when you open the front doors?

Correct. It was 6 months as a standard fit on the L&K (ours has it as it was built it Jan / Feb 2016) then it was an £850 option. It was last shown as available in the July 2016 brochure.

I often have a need to lock the car but leave the keys inside and use the manual unlock to get back in. This might be when I go diving or swimming and have nowhere safe to store the key but also don’t want to take it in the water with me. I’ve tried doing this by turning off KESSY, which mostly works except when I do unlock alarm goes off.

When I fitted a used sill to my Transporter van I offered it up over the top of the old sill and spent a long time making sure it fitted as well as I could make it. I temporally clamped it place and drew round it before cutting. I butt welded the new sill in place. I was glad that I had been forced to use the used VW panel (no repair panel was available then) because it was 3mm thick whereas some repair panels are only 1.5mm or so. The different thicknesses make the welding harder and thin metal is always more difficult for us diy welders because it is so easy to blow it into holes. When I got the old sill off I was pleased to see the inner sill in great condition so I didn't have to repair that also. If you haven't done a lot of welding my top tips are: Use a welder which has shielding gas and don't weld if it's breezy. Prep is vital. Make sure everything is lined up perfectly cleaned up to bare metal (poly wheels on a grinder are good for this) and well clamped in place. Tack it first and then weld a few inches at a time to avoid distortion. Tap home and/or re-clamp before each new weld. Use both hands on the torch whenever possible for steadiness. Don't weld anywhere near the fuel tank. Be prepared to drain and take it out. Have water, wet cloths and a good fire extinguisher close by. Use a self darkening mask. If possible have mate/spotter because it is certain that at some point (probably many) you will set fire to nearby underseal which can be put out with a wet cloth. Have your spotter also watching the inside of the car and be prepared to take seats out and peel back carpets if necessary. Sparks will inevitably burn holes in your clothes, sometimes not stopping there! Good luck. The Mig Welding forum is full of great tutorials about all types of welding plus choosing welding equipment.

I attached a picture of my cluster, sorry for not doing it sooner!

Free the bottom edge of the sill, tec screw the new one over the top and cut through both layers? Scab the top edge back together with weld and then tack the bottom back in? I don't have a spot welder or access to one :/

If we were to get one, it would be the 55 Edition.

According to wikipedia, the 55 is the top end model with 155kW (211PS) and a 51.7kWh battery. I suspect it also has multi-link rear suspension, as it has over 150PS. Lower models with a lot less power (85kW/116PS and 99kW/135PS), a 37kWh battery, and twist-beam rear suspension might not be so impressive.

Hello Try to find out if it disconnects in the same place on the road. I have the same problem and after I tried every possible thing (updata maps, update infotament, android expert setting, cache, changed the phone, etc.. ) I noticed that the android auto disconnects and reconnects in the same place on the road. In that zone there are 4 power transformers with a distance of aproximately 150-200 m between them and they interfere with the car connectivity. It happens only in that zone, every single time.

The skoda parts catalogue lists thirteen tyre pressure labels for the Enyaq. You might find different tyre pressure recommendations on each one. Tyre pressure labels (Enyaq) 5LA010000B 5LA010000C 5LA010000D 5LA010000E 5LA010000F 5LA010000G 5LA010000H 5LA010000J 5LA010000K 5LA010000L 5LA010000M 5LA010000N 5LA010000P

Take a picture of your instrument cluster and we might be able to advise from there

Sills arrived and look like they'll fit well and maybe even have enough length to bend over into the returns on the rear end. I offered one up and i see how it has a lip at the top edge that goes in towards the center of the truck... Does anyone on here know how that bit of metal is on there from the factory? Should I be looking for spot welds along that top seam, or like... where do I cut?! I think I'm out of my depth here :D

I have bad news, after the modification to the market code it still didn't improve anything, i still don't have the MFD Data option or the digital speedo within the already existing tabs. I do have an aftermarket Junsun radio installed maybe that changes the situation but idk anymore.

Thanks

https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5la010000n-tire-pressure-label-skoda-56661.html The part number is in the bottom right corner; 5LA.010.000.N Thanks. AG Falco

im in a very simular position, my car had build week early oct. i spoke to the dealer last week and aparently my cars built but not complete so i assume its waiting for a part. my spec is 85 edition with suite and transprt pack.

Good mentioned, this is similar to what has been used in Scandinavian countries, where you can stop at a shop, "plug in" (EV ante-litteram 😁) and keep engine warm. The Webasto is fully reliant on fuel (and a small quantity of electrical power of course) and it is actually a small self-contained heater/boiler for the coolant. Brilliant.

Agreed, shouldn’t need left on charge as only away for three weeks, however force of habit as we regularly leave her laid up for 3 months, occasionally up to 6 months. Nice to know she’ll fire back into life when we get home.👍

Moved battery monitor from directly installed on battery to the rear side panel. Tapped in to power for 12v socket that’s permanently live and used earth point behind trim. Tucked away nice and neatly and not exposed to engine bay conditions. Thanks @Colin170CR for the recommendation. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08VHMJYXY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Moved battery monitor from directly installed on battery to the rear side panel. Tapped in to power for 12v socket that’s permanently live and used earth point behind trim. Tucked away nice and neatly and not exposed to engine bay conditions. Thanks @Colin170CR for the recommendation. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08VHMJYXY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Shouldn't need your CTEK. Our Karoq was left for nearly 2 months on our driveway as we were away on an extended holiday. Started fine on our return.