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Morning all. Have a new issue I thought I would run by you to see if anybody has had similar.... 2021 Enyaq 60 with 110k miles. Have recently had starting a 'clicking' noise when moving away from a standing start and then when breaking. Almost sounds like a relay opening/closing. Strangely enough, if you pull away VERY slowly, it does not do it. Car is at the dealer for a number of issues but, on this one (no diag done by 5 on Monday but completed by 11 yesterday), it has been declared as a major job requiring 10 hours of labour to power down, remove gearbox and carry out repair. All very vague at the moment and have asked for a breakdown of parts required. Quote for the repair is £3,300 !!! My initial enquiry is whether anybody has had similar please?? If this needs to be done, then so be it, but a bit miffed that a 4 year old car with (relatively) not high mileage, requires an expensive repair like this !! Will add to my post if/when I get an update of requirements.... Thanks in advance, Paul

Can you say if the car is slipping clutches while creeping or is there an ultra low gear in operation as was I seem to recall reading of? Thanks agian

Diagnosed as pressure sensor at dealer, £310 to supply and fit.

Had to spend a bit of time cleaning up bearing socket on my sons. Especially the grooves it clicks into due to corosion. Fairly easy to do with the correct puller. Couldnt get ABS sensor out without destroying it. Give it a good soak with penetrating oil for a day or two and you will hopefully be lucky. Alasdair

The heat pump is £1150 or thereabouts for a small increase in overall efficiency. Maybe 10-15 miles extra range in winter? £1000 buys a hell of a lot of electricity, so the heat pump is poor value.

Maybe check engine bay fuse box for loose contacts/corosion/relays and all earth points you can find. as the wiring is new and so is valve. Alasdair

Odd it does it at cold start. Wonder if its a poor connection somewhere thats bad when cold and when warm it expands making better contact or perhaps cranking cold engine is dropping voltage too low and causing errors. Check battery voltage when cold cranking? Hope you get to the bottom of it Alasdair

Finally, it lives. First start and test drive complete no obvious leaks and its does feel better to drive. Something we both noticed was previously the engine was hunting and canting back and forth a bit, that’s all gone as is an odd noise it was making. I feel like that could well have been the head lifting and gasses escaping so something to look out for. First drive and everything was working getting heat in the cabin and all seems well. Left it at the shed last night on the 4 post to just confirm no leaks but all being well it’ll be back on the road and with luck all my issues will be resolved and I shall close out the thread at that point. IMG_9100.mov

Just for laughs, the "horned headrest" can double as an impromptu hat-holder 😄

Sorry I missed this .... the blanket, when properly folded, can fit with the right height, right under the central armrest in the rear seat, which in my car is always in the "down" position. In summer, when not really needed, I put it under the vario floor - it tucks perfectly there.

Hi Alasdair, Honestly, I am not sure whether they cloned the old ECU or flashed it from scratch with default factory software. What I do know is that they performed programing. Regarding the code: since picking up the car from the dealership, I have cleared the fault code twice using OBDeleven. Both times it cleared fine, but as soon as the engine cools down and sits for a while, the exact same static code (P25AB00) persistently comes right back on the next cold start. So whatever data or software condition is causing this, it keeps triggering the fault continuously.

Hi everyone, Can anyone point me to the exact physical location of the Piston Cooling Oil Control Valve (N522) on the 2.0 TSI engine (280 hp)? The VAG part number for the valve is 06K115243L. I know it's located somewhere on the engine block near the oil pump module, but is it accessible from the top, or do I need to drop the undertray and get to it from underneath (front side of the block facing the radiator)? A photo/description of where to look would be hugely appreciated!

Id be keen to check for any vacuum leaks and / or boost leaks. I would look at my fuel trims for an indicator of this and then smoke test various systems for a leak. Running some live data on fuel trims, high pressure fuel pump and low pressure pump values would be good to see whilst running / driving. Be good to see hpfp / rail values after a drive to see if injectors are leaking at all. Are there any misfires or other codes coming up on a scan?

Hi has anyone changed a brake master cylinder i am about to attempt it on my 2011 1.2 tsi any advice is welcome

Senny over-the-ear is at the very least a safe bet and it is the one I'd go for. B&W do a very nice headphone too, as do some of the Grado models. Personally, I've been using Senny domestically and professionally for 40 years and have no complaints. Open-back is probably a better sound (but they do bleed audio both ways a little), but in the real world, closed over-ear is probably best. If you want top noise cancelling, then Bose and Sony are pretty much leaders, although Sennheiser and B&W aren't too far behind. I've a set of mid-range Sennys I use for outdoor work and an old Bose QuietComfort for aircraft settings. Both sound good, but more modern headphones are better. Is noise-cancelling a priority? Also, there is latency with Bluetooth if he is a musician, so if low latency is important. I'd recommend a headphone that can support APTX Adaptive or LL (low latency-an almost extinct variant, sadly). I'm thinking that if he wants to strut around wearing his 'cans' using Bluetooth, then you can buy a cheap APTX Bluetooth transmitter (Class 1 - cheap as chips on Amazon) and get headphones with 'APTX Adaptive', so he should have 40ms or possibly less delay. APTX is a codec that is both popular and of good quality.

Just to close the loop on this. I changed front discs and pads and gave everything a really good clean and lube up and it’s been over 200 miles on the new brakes and everything is silky smooth.

Haven’t done an awful lot with it, but getting ready to sell it and don’t want to offload it to some poor bugger and get my windows put through! Had it’s timing checked, two full tanks of premium fuel through which seemed to tone it down a bit, but it’s come back again even with premium fuel. Full set of spark plugs, new coil packs, full service and new PCV breather. Going back into the garage in a few weeks for a vacuum check. Sorry for delayed reply, 12 hour night shifts.

Me...4x4 2.0LT tdi....mostly motorway, 1 l every 7.000 kms....

Sorry to dig this up again after such a long time but I'm desperately trying to navigate the absolute mess that is this infotainment system. I haven't managed to get either Skoda Connect or OTA updates working in my car, about to give it another try. I'm also from Sweden and I even contacted my local Skoda workshop for help updating the firmware because I decided it wasn't worth the risk of trying it myself, to which their response was "we don't do that". My car is a 2020 so I'm guessing it's very possible that it also needs a OCU update but it's not anything that I've been made aware of. Can I even verify what version of it I have through the software? Skoda seems toi have redesigned their website since this thread started so I can't clearly see whether my car is even eligible for OTA updates and the manual is frankly useless as it only links to their website. I really like the car but I'm very disappointed in the support from Skoda.

To be honest, I don't know. I think I'll end up chasing the ex NHS car just because it is newer. I like the 60 plate one but it's older than the car I'm selling. And it's much closer to home.

Hi bud, it’s a petrol 245, ive got a mate who does it and yeah back boxes. Thanks.

Some advice please, I’m due to collect a very low mileage 6 month old Enyak from a main dealer this week, should I be asking for sight of a SOH for the battery?

9 weeks and 11500 miles in, just had to put 1ltr of (expensive!) oil in to bring the level back up (1.5 hybrid) mostly motorway miles and always allowed to warm up from new, anyone else needed to top up ? Not had to do it on any of the other new cars i’ve had over the last few years.

All new cars are the same now, some are easier to turn off, but all will reset every time the car is turned on again.

Sounds like the Renault battery fire suppression, fire fighting is being adopted for other marques of EVs and will be used in Li NMC, LFP and presumably Sodium batteries as they start to become more common. Each iteration of battery chemistry is less prone to thermal runaway as well as being cheaper. Still think inboard fire system might be better to nip in bud. https://www.renault.co.uk/safety/firefighter-technologies.html