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Meant to add on the peugeot 205 gti if you used a lot of force on brakes it gradually sunk to floor. Listen around the brake cylinder. On hers theres a high pitched sort of whine noise which I assume is the fluid under pressure getting past seals. Try with engine off and pump till hard if possible and then apply a good bit of force. We couldnt hear it over the engine. Alasdair

Trouble with dealers is they will do anything to create more work and income.Last time I used one for a car not under warranty. It was Des winks in Scarborough, previouse week i had the rear seats down to put my sons bike in the boot, i had caught the plastic around the seat belt and caused it to unclip no damage just uncliped. When i had a service done they found a leaking water pump ( fair enough this was an issue) but they flagged up the seatbelt trim stating it needed a new suround and with labout was £165, also some dirt had found it's way into the center setbelt hole and seatbelt had to be pushed in a touch harder so this was flagged and was £300+ to have fixed. they videoed the problems which must have taken some time and emailed them to myself. Upon getting home and checking the problems i simply clipped the seat belt surround back in place took seconds and was perferct. the dirt i simply put a strong hover to the hole and spayed in some wd40 agin worked perfect there after. why could they not have just done this as part of the service even if they charged £10 for 5 mins work and a spray of oil, yet they took 10 mins to film the problems and tried to make £500+ out of me for work that was not needed as the work quoted was for new parts and fitting. AS such i went to another dealership to get the waterpump done, they also tried to tell me that the cam chain tensioners on a vrs tsi was recomended to be done/changed every 40k miles at a cost of £1100. I did phone a few dealers pretending to want to buy a tsi and was checking this out all said it was not a recomendation and only needed checking if you were getting any rattle from your cam chain. I think some dealerships are good and others just want to wring your pockets out. I would always use an independent specialist if possible or use a dealership if car has a dealership warranty. I also remember a nissan garage locally when my keyfob battery went on a primera gt years ago i was told they had to re programe the batter and only they could do it and charged me £25 to fit a batter and the cost of the battery all in £40 it was a £2 battery and i later found out when you installed a new battery it was a simple 2 min process and only cost £2 for a new battery at the time. So yes i would avaid dealerships on the whole, but do get some are honest and helpfull. If you goto a standard independent garage buy a service kit oil filters sparks etc from dealership and keep receipt and just pay garage for wwork only even if it costs a little more, that way you have 2 receipts that verify each other for your service records dealers always want your reg so it will be on the receipt.

Hi, I am considering buying this car already been in contact with the trade seller, please can you forward me the details pertaining to its history. Many thanks and appreciated very much.

For a while while driving the engine would stall for a split second and the dashboard would show as if just had the ignition switched on, this was random and could be days or weeks before it happened again. This week while pulling up in a car park as soon as I stopped the engine cut out and the dashboard went blank, turning the ignition key did nothing, after about 30 - 40 seconds which seems an eternoty when you can't start the car the dash starts to flicker for a few seconds and then all is well and can start the car again and get on my way. Any ideas on the cause from you more knowledgeable guys on the cause? Car is a 2013 1.6 diesel Greenline hatchback.

For two functions missing on the same stalk, I'd suggest checking the stalk itself first.

Hello brains trust. Family member has a mk3 my21 Fabia. Right hand drive model. Front wipers do not activate no matter wiper stalk position, rear wiper works via the same stalk, however zero water coming from the washer bottle to either front or rear wipers. I’ve checked marked fuses (the fuse box in the engine bay and also the indicated fuses under the steering column) all indicated fuses have power at the fuse and illuminated both sides using a test light/lamp. I appreciate this may have been covered previously and sorry if I’m not seeing something obvious. I couldn’t hear any ticking noise from the bcm however I was at the time more concerned in checking fuses. PS the vehicle is an Australian version hence RHD. Thank you

Thanks will do.

Folks, I was getting intermittent warnings that my boot was open whilst driving, and the locking mech kept cycling. It was the washer fluid sprayer on my reversing camera that had popped out of the reversing camera housing and was squirting over the internal boot lock electrics. Have a look at my old posts for a write up & photos of how to fix it.

Maybe worth searching for these threads.

Suggest buying a DVM (digital Volt Meter) and plugging it into the cabin power point, permanently if not being used for anything else, and monitoring the voltage while driving normally, coasting etc. If the battery SOC is up around 80% then the DVV will show 14.5/14.8V on overrun and ~ 13.0/13.6V with accelerator pressed, if the SOC is down around 75% then its more than likely that the charging rate is 14.5/14.8V under all driving conditions. My over 7.5 year old Polo petrol 65BHP (Original) battery SOC has often been down around 75% but stop/start never failed to operate any time I care to use it. The max SOC is 85%. VCDS 10Friday,05,June,2026,10:45:58:555 42,715 kms/26,542miles. IDE01834 Battery voltage 12.193 V IDE01836 Battery current -4.950 A IDE01839 Battery charge status 77 % IDE01841 Battery internal resistance 7.6 mOhm IDE01842 Usable battery charge 28 Ah IDE01948 Battery internal resistance not normed 6.0 mOhm IDE07681-MAS06086 Battery total charging throughput-Total re-charge 3890.7 Ah IDE07681-MAS06087 Battery total charging throughput-Entire energy throughput 4091.0 Ah Battery Capacity 59AH.

Even with regular long trips, the battery will frequently not get charged to 100% due to the Smart Charging system reserving battery capacity for regenerative charging.

If the pedal gradually drops under pressure and there are no leaks and your sure theres no air in system its more than likely the seals that have gone on the brake master cylinder. The fluid is probably getting past the seals/bypassing but its not leaking. Daughters peugeot 205gti did exactly the same a few weeks ago. Brakes were a bit soft for a while and then virtually no brakes even if you pumped pedal. Alasdair.

Thanks for that

Which Solution you have?

I’ve just taken delivery of a Reiger diffuser valance. You’re welcome to the standard one that I’m taking off. Seeing as I’m changing my rear bumper (driven into) I’ve actually got 2 - one off my bumper with cutout for dropdown towbar, and one off the donor bumper with no cutout. Just as an option if you wanted to retain the standard look.

Welcome to the forum. Try contacting a specialist tuner near you - or contacting a member of a local Car Club. I'm sure either of these could offer good suggestions for sources.

Does anyone know when the Epiq will be coming into showrooms? I believe that lhd ones should be doing a tour of dealers in the next month or so.

I'd strongly recommend getting the battery fully charged and properly tested before replacing it - and test the alternator output.

Mine does it too and according to my main stealer it’s because the car isn’t used enough to keep the battery fully charged. Bear in mind these days that even if the car isn’t used just sat there it will have something somewhere using a bit of power. I just give mine a 20 to 30 min run every couple of weeks

What type of use does this car get - is it mainly used for short runs? There isn't normally a lot of headspace between the battery SOC level that the smart charge alternator maintains and the SS cut-off level, plus SS won't be available if one, of at least 6-8, operation parameters are not met.

Charging the battery: if this helps only temporarily, replace the battery regardless of age or mileage.

This old chestnut seems to have been a re-occurring theme on BRISKODA forums, with various Skoda models affected although I couldn't see any reports from Mk4 Octavia owners; hence this new topic. I've had my vehicle just over a month now, so it's 10 months old with 6200 on the clock. For the first few days the auto start-stop (ASS) worked as expected, but now, for some reason it never activates. Having read other users reports, it would seem a battery issue may be the likely cause. I've tried driving without any extra drain on the battery i.e. heated steering wheel, air con. etc. but to no avail. I didn't purchase the car from a Skoda dealer, so I'm assuming that all the pre-sale checks carried out by the seller (Cinch) may have included a battery charge as standard.. Have any Mk4 owners experienced this issue and if so was there a successful resolution? Any input would be most welcome before I make a visit to my local Skoda garage. Many thanks in anticipation.

Just to close this thread, I just decides to use the free version spotify on my phone. But thanks for the imput to my query.

Yes, that would be reasonable, but do they actually do it? Even if they do, if they charge it at the actual cost to VWFS that's going to be way less than the dealers retail price so it would still be a good deal. But unless someone has been through this, it's unknown - hence my question.

Well, no you don't. I cancelled the one on our Karoq after 5mths so as to get the cheaper rate in Black Friday offer. I hadn't used any of the elements of the plan. Not only did I not have to pay any extra, after reading of someone who got a refund, I pushed and with much grumpiness they refunded me the 5mths I'd paid as goodwill. Only issue I had is they didn't link the two plans together so it looked like there'd been a 5 mths gap in warranty cover. This meant that the plan showed a 30 day waiting period for the warranty to start. They confirmed to me in email that this was wrong and they would waive it.