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Just out of interest are they using the available repair panel and welding that back in or just doing their own thing? I'd expect at my local bodyshop (who have done decent quality repairs for me in the past) it would cost in the region of £250 - £350.

I've also been having this issue for sometime as well and it's driving me mad now! I have checked the software version and appear to be on 0324 - is this quite an out of date version (if it is, I am wondering if I will ever see the update that fixes the problem described here) (There does not seem to be any available downloads when I click the Update software button either). Oh...I am a Kamiq owner, but thought it pointless starting a new thread over on that board!

I pushed as hard as I could and went down numerous avenues. The first visit to the dealership and first rejection was a joke as they didn't even bother to take any photos. After numerous exchanges with Skoda customer services I was asked to return to the dealership for photos and the claim to be resubmitted. I knew what the outcome would be because, yes, the dealership took photos but only of the exterior of the car. Surely they needed to take photos of the inner wheel arch where the rust started? It was this second visit when it was no longer a matter of not having it serviced at Skoda and annual bodywork checks as I had pointed out it had just started so wouldn't have been seen at a service but seems and edges came into play. Next stop was the ombudsman but then finding out they are toothless and have accepted Skoda's poor excuse to get out of paying up. It is now booked in with a local bodyshop to get sorted at my expense. That's another area to be wary of as you can get quotes from as little as £300 but I wonder what the quality of repair would be. The local bodyshop is a Skoda approved one amongst numerous other manufacturers and I have had them do work before on other cars. We are looking at just over a grand but hopefully it will cure it and not return.

Richard Mills 079 44 00 49 48

I've been watching this all as my daughter recently bought a Citigo. It has no rust at present as far as I can tell but I'm intending to check and fit arch liners. However, I have a fear that it will rust around the fuel filler (they all do) over time and probably already has (it's a 2017 model). Having said that I think it's totally pointless trying to get Skoda to accept responsibility for it given the Ombudsman's ruling and the usual push back from dealers and Skoda. As and when I'll therefore use a local bodyshop for the repair as the hassle and stress of trying to get it done through the warranty on a 9 / 10 year old car simply won't be worth the effort given the likely cost of the repair. It's crap from Skoda for definite but life's too short IMHO.

I've been down the same road. They will throw a number of reasons at you but Skoda's ultimate response will be the warranty doesn't cover seams and edges which is where the rust starts. Unfortunately the ombudsman has now accepted Skoda excuse for not honouring their warranty and doesn't support claims. As you will have found it is a well known issue that could have bean easily solved if Skoda had bothered to spend a fiver on rear wheel arch liners but they decided to go cheap then when the claims started rolling in they panicked and threw out excuses until they found one the ombudsman would accept. Absolutely disgusting from Skoda.

You're welcome @JR RS lol It's untested and unproven obviously, but I'm hoping it may produce a bit more air pressure into the airbox at speed. I can't see any negatives of this mod either. I was thinking of getting 2 more sets so that I could have the air scooped from below in the same way as the kit is intended on the Golf GTI, but I then realised that along with the honeycomb grille I have on which opens up the full front to air flow, I'd have a chance of debris and rain possibly making it down to the air filter. The Kopacek grille can be seen as a performance part as well as an aesthetic part because of how closed up the standard grille is for air flow.

Yes she wasn’t very happy starting! I’ve got some work trips away and I didn’t fancy coming back to the airport car park in the early hours to a flat battery!

Good that you catch it right on time ... 9V at cranking you very pushing it 😉

Figured it out, you have a message. PS If you can’t send a reply (not enough posts) but can see my messages just say here and I’ll bung you an email address by message.

Trying to see how to message you but failing miserably. :-(

Sooooo... a few things... The DPF or EGR are not an issue. I shall say no more than that. It has a new turbo, I am going to check the turbo but its been replaced at some point in the recent past, but agree its worth checking. The car has just ticked over 145k, aside from the engine issues the car is in really good condition, no rust really and its very clean overall.

Hi all . Has anyone swapped the original dial style climate controls to the Monte Carlo ones ? Plugs are similar if not identical and my car does have ac etc . Thank you https://ebay.io/m/TOHgpk One installed in my vehicle https://ebay.io/m/1Cl9w0 one id like to install

How much kilometers/miles has the car done? Did you check the turbo shafts play? Oil gets to the wrong side of turbo and burns off? What is your fuel consumption and does the car regenerate often? If the dpf would be almost full of ash, would it cause the internal engine pressure rise that would cause for example oil getting past the piston rings with too much blow-by? Or leak through from some seal?

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

Thanks to all for taking the trouble to help. Why oh why can't we go back to a simple key to access and start?

For any stranded wannabe mechanics out there, the cause for vibrations was engine mount the left one near expansion tank. Took me a while to figure out. 😂😀

Not sure what's changed but I think the warning is better now. It comes up when the ignition is on before the car starts, but the trouble with keyless start is it flashed past that stage very quickly. However I think the warning shows better now - we've had it recently in our Karoq, Kamiq and SEAT Ateca. Daughter used to run the Ateca (2018 model) and that did go through a phase of the fob just dying and it always seemed to happen when she got to work. She became a dab hand at popping the lock cover off (there's a hole underneath for the key blade to go in) and getting in (the alarm will go off) and starting the car (which stops the alarm). But since I had the car (18mths) it's told me it needs a new battery - did it a few weeks ago. On the Kamiq that can be opened from the Skoda App. The daughter that drives that keeps a spare battery in the glove box just in case.

A battery lasts as long as a battery lasts. Someone using the car multiple times a day obviously won't get the same use as someone using the car a couple of times a week. There should be a low battery warning on the car's display to prompt a battery change. But given that the Panasonic batteries that are fitted at the factory cost around £1, probably easier to just replace it annually or at whatever point you choose. You can open the back of the fob by withdrawing the emergency key around 50% & using that to push against the battery cover. You need to press a button on the fob after removing the old & before inserting the new. Like most things, harder the first time you try it. 😉 As above, you pry the cover off the door handle to access the manual lock, which the emergency key fits.

Thanks for this. After searching, I see a small rectangular hole underneath the handle. Is that where I insert the probe from the fob? When you say remove the smaller cover, do you mean the cover at the left hand end of the handle? How does it come off? Do we get a warning if the battery is low? Thanks again for helping.

There a lock near the keyless sensor on the handle: You need to remove the smaller cover. Inside the fob, there a small key to open the car. Then the car should start even if the fob battery is dead, as it uses something like a NFC sensor to start which has not to be necessarily powered

Link to download MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T sent in PM

In short I should swap the complete engine from my rustbucket LXi Felda into the LX if I buy it, jo? 😃 Cheers for it, would you know if the exhaust assemblies are different?

Anyone know how long a fob battery lasts before needing replacement? How do I change it? I saw a video on line which seemed awfully fiddly involving a long thin screwdriver and much twisting. Why are these things so complicated? Do we get a warning of impending flat fob battery? I read we can use the emergency key to gain access if locked out. It said to put the emergency key next to the start/stop button and the car will open. How do we do that if we are locked out?. I bought a 2023 Karoq and wonder if I made a mistake, what with the constant updates etc.