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Coming back to this as I've toyed with a few things we thought would fix it. So far, we've replaced the oil filler neck and the cap itself - if you have a leak here it will prompt the same codes (P1504 and P1553) as I have been having. However, this was not what was causing mine after replacing it with a known good neck/cap from a spares car. Chucked a smoke generator on the vacuum system and identified that the intake manifold has been leaking where it meets the engine itself. I haven't fitted the new (used, known good) one yet as not had the time but I'm hopeful this will fix it. If anyone else is doing the same, make sure you replace the gasket too. I'll report back with my findings as soon as I have them.

Not quite the same thing, but my mate (who isn't on here I don't think) and I retrofitted rear electric windows from a donor Elegance to my old 2006 Mk1, although being a later one there were some CAN/LIN incompatibilities. I think the main thing I'd advise is making sure you have a Comfort Control Module that is capable of running these things, as I know there's a certain spec of these that have a stripped down system that cannot be adapted. @Tech1e might know more than I do about this actually.

My dipstick is exactly the same as the manual describes BUT there is not ANY treatment at the marked area as shown in S19-0760 picture - it is just plain steel. That is why is difficult to see the border between wet and dry. The other reason is when inserted is becomes wet and dirty almost everywhere...

My Fabia's Owner's Manual describes checking the oil fill-level as shown in the attachment below. The Fabia's dipstick is black-coloured steel and (as fabiamk4man has said) it is not easy to spot the level, particularly when the (thin) oil is clean. About 3.14 into this video it is suggested that laying the dipstick against a piece of kitchen towel is a useful means of identifying the oil-level and I've used that method successfully for many years.

It is steel. I may do so 👍

Is the dipstick steel in the area you need to see, or plastic? If it's steel, sand off the blackness?

IMO Think yourself lucky you have a Skoda vehicle that still has a dipstick

It shouldn't have been that hard or tricky... easy things are made difficult by vw...

You are dealing with people on a keyboard that can be anyplace and who know nothing about cars / Skoda's. Even Communication / Resolution Managers might have more experience of selling shoes / trainers or serving fast food than motorised vehicles.

Try taking a photo with phone and then zoom in on it to try to see the wet/dry boundary.

Are you checking it both ways, stone cold before the engine is started to see plenty oil, & as required at Normal Operating Temperature after stopped a few minutes, so 4 or 5 and when the oil is at an indicated 90*oC or so? You can wipe the dipstick and then maybe a very light dusting if talc powder on the dipstick. I used to use french chalk on difficult dip sticks. Only a Tiny amount.

I admit that it is quite difficult for me to clearly see the oil level on the dipstick every time. It usually gets all dirty when it is inserted, and in addition the space in which the level should be is pitch black and without any treatment to hold the oil and thus clearly show the level... I wonder if anyone else has the same problem and if so, what they have done to deal with it...

What did you end up getting and would you recommend it?

New lens arrived today, wide angle zoom, 14-35mm couldn’t resist giving it a go. Took a few more snaps for a small photography project.

On the facelift cars, the foglight is actually two different lamps - a foglight and the daylight driving lights in the same enclosure. It seems that drivers of many older makes of cars, not just VAG, have the foglights rewired to come on with the ignition to make them look modern. This is maybe what has happened to your car. The law says that the driving lights must be OFF when the headlights are on and so it may be a MOT failure if your fog/sudeo driving lights are on.

The VIN will tell you when it was built. If you are picking it up in a couple of weeks will they register it as a 76?

Got the call from the dealer today to say my new car has arrived at the dealership. 7 days from order to delivery! I had to wait 7 months for the Superb. A benefit of zero factory fitted options. It will no doubt have been sitting in a uk port for a while, Civics are built in Japan. I’ve booked it in at a professional detailers for a “new car” treatment. I’m going on holiday at the weekend so I’ll be collecting the car when I get back in a couple of weeks time. Thanks for all the help and advice over the last 18 mths guys 👍🏼

Thanks so much, I’ll give it a go.

It wasn’t damaged when they first had the car when they had to take everything off etc but for some reason was this time when replacing things properly which they should of done previously. I don’t have an issue with Service Dept as it’s not them doing the work but the workshop are more like monkeys with a hammer

How odd. So it wasn’t damaged when the armrest was repaired?! There would have been no reason for them to be anywhere near it in that case! We bought out kodiaq and Fabia from underwoods in Colchester and they were brilliant. That branch closed so we then went to bristos in Ipswich for the final services on the deal and they were awful. Cars were left dirty, and I always felt there was an upsell. Real dodgy car garage feel about them. It’s a shame that has jaded your impression of the brand.

This I understand and get even with the following the same routes of the OEM routes. This was mentioned over the phone when being told that everything had been done and they couldn’t get these sockets working again, so I said yes I had them installed and you need to push the button to turn on the usb charge unit. But what I don’t get is the damage not the missing fuse, with the former being done previously to start this whole mess and it working after collecting the car but not after 48 hours of the car being there this week. I have phoned the service department and explained, you could tell he was oh for Christ sale not again and has said did I want them to do the repairs or for them to order the parts, I have said I will do the repairs Had a lovely loaner and being new you are like yes I like Skoda and then their workshop does this and you think nope no more Skodas!

Trunk Lid electrical opening over the key or the button inside the car - it beeps looks like faulty sensor in the one of the eletric struns suggesting to change in 6D ,module to use only one sensor USB C Output in the back suggesting to retrofit from facelift version more power from 15w to 45w

The usb socket is separate from the front cigarette lighter. I can understand them pulling wires by accident due to it being non OEM fitting, they wouldn’t know how they’re routed etc. and you would have to disconnect some of these parts to get to change the arm rest as they have done. But to pull the fuse because it’s blown and not mention it is unacceptable. At pick up they should have said “very sorry sir but when dismantling we pulled some wires we didn’t realise were there. This blew the fuse in slot 40. Here is a 20A fuse to replace it but you will need to repair your wires first. Please let us know if you incur any cost and we will reimburse you” I suspect potentially a junior tech cocked up and tried to hide it. Might be worth mentioning it to them as they may well not know!

A small update on this. I visited a dealer today and had a really long look around a new unregistered Sportline seven seater. I lifted the boot floor and it had properly mounted space saver tyre. It therefore appears that the configurator may be accurate as it allows the purchaser to select the space saver on a seven seater and the brochure is probably wrong when it says that we cannot have one. 😕 Anyway, with the seven seater SEL I ordered, I opted for the space saver, so we’ll see what arrives. 👍🫰

I think that what happened was, VW Group or their coolant supplier BASF, became a bit more environmentally aware and so "greened" the coolant and so G12++ became G13, some time after this, VW Group or BASF became aware that for some engine version uses or at least the typical working temperature was causing enough silicate to get depleted to cause concerns. This was addressed by "sort of" providing silicate pouches for some model/engine combinations - so some models/engines were sent out with the "Mit Silikat" reservoirs while at the same production/sales periods, some cars were sent out without these pouches in the reservoirs. While my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - factory filled with G13 aged, it was sent out without a silicate pouch in the reservoir, the ph level in the coolant changed quite quickly - compared with my older daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - factory filled with G13, which has a "Mit Silikat" reservoir - so these pouches do seem to do what they need to. I think that VW Group was gaining info about this G13 as time went on, and if they had had enough info on G13 in the 1.2TSI 16V engines, that 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS would have been sent out from the factory complete with a "Mit Silikat" reservoir!