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Haven't looked in the Menu as we turn off Lane Assist via the steering wheel as per the second option shown in Derek's first post. It's the tugging of the steering that annoys us rather than the vibration as it pulls quite strongly and stops you steering smoothly. Am I right in assuming that with the vibration turned off you still get the tugging? If so that is interesting as that is the opposite with my Volvo. Again you can't turn off permanently but you can turn off the steering correction permanently which leaves the vibration. But this isn't too intrusive so I often don't bother to turn it off as it means going through a number of levels in the Menu in the centre screen, a right pain, as you can't turn it off via the steering wheel as per the Fabia.

Can't help exactly but my current Elroq, my 2nd one, does have some kind of vibration from the front end that the 1st one did not. It only occurs when the AC in running, so maybe the compressor or the motor that drives it is the cause and somehow it's even worse in yours? Just a thought, to help narrow it down maybe?

Intermittent fault Car will not start. Dash lights up as typical, no dimming on starting. Battery is 12.8v and 1 year old I've checked... Trigger red live wire (wire of death) Cleaned X3 earth points and checked for breaks Used spare key in case of immobiliser or key fault Unfortunately, after 5 attempts I investigated engine bay and touched trigger wire (on blt it has an extension to stop it snapping due to being too short) then tried again starting car. It started no unusual noises. I got 12.4v on trigger wire using multimeter, but this was when car was starting up fine. Starter motor has not made any unusual noises. Could it be on its way out (19year old and 115k.miles?). It either works perfectly or not at all. Done this X2 occasions. At end of work day. Suggestions?

Yes, there wwas Superb Mk2 with paddles, I even had one MY12 V6 3.6 DSG with paddles. Send me VIN of your Superb in PM.

I will definitely check out the rust doctor for some extra guidance I’m going to tackle it shortly so will keep you updated on how I’m getting on just hoping nothing is so badly corroded that I need a welder. Super tip on the baby oil too my mirrors are painted but I’ll check if there are any other areas I can do that on. Would be great to see your progress and I’ll share mine in pictures too as I go 🙏🏻

Thanks a lot! I tried disabling the automatic internal air circulation and you were right — the noise completely disappears when it's disabled, so it definitely seems to be related to one of the AC flaps/actuators. Do you know if there is any workshop manual, diagram or documentation showing the exact location of these flaps/actuators on the Octavia IV? I already mentioned this issue to an authorized Škoda service center, but they told me that they might have to remove the entire dashboard to access the flap/actuator. Before letting them do something that extensive, I'd really like to know which actuator is most likely responsible and whether it can be accessed without removing the whole dashboard.

Ok but that will be from another model? There's no superb MK2 with them is there? I think Octavia might do but that will be the same green logo wheel that I'm trying to replace.

For manua DSG gear shift? Of course it was!

Hello, a new member here so can't pm yet. I know it's a long shot but was just wondering if you had the boot cargo storage nets for your roomster and if you still had them available to buy. Happy to pay postage

I didn't think there was one from that era with paddles?

https://www.reuters.com/legal/litigation/volkswagen-recalls-4-million-cars-handelsblatt-reports-2026-09-25/ Anyone seen any details on Skoda vehicles participation in this safety recall? From: https://www.focus.de/auto/ratgeber/auch-skoda-modelle-offenbar-von-lenkungs-rueckruf-betroffen_7a5080c8-2ee3-4841-bc6c-afddd4de4064.html (translated by Google): "A Skoda spokesperson told FOCUS online: “Internal quality checks have revealed that certain vehicles in some Škoda model series (Octavia, Superb, Kodiaq, Karoq) may have a deviation from the standard in the steering bolts.” The affected production period is week 11/2015 to week 8/2026. In Germany, this affects 370,879 vehicles." (As of now, neither the Skoda Group nor Skoda Spain-specific recall websites match my VIN, an April 2020-manufactured last of the MkIII Facelift Scout).

I've not had any updates on my 24 plate 1.5 tsi. Has there not been any or have I turned something off.

Hello Steve, I have bought your previous car (KYXX XXB) today. I would appreciate you sending me anything you have for the car; that is very kind. If you can private message I can pay for postage and so on. Cheers again.

Likewise. Had my 24 1.5 DSG Sportline for 2 years and have had no issues.

Never seen it on my August 2024 registered Karoq 1.5TSi (150) SEL. It was always displayed on my previous 2018 Seat Leon FR 1.4 TSi (150). I'll have to try the suggestion in the earlier post. A friend with an Audi A3 Sportline with the same engine insists it has no 2-cylinder mode.

Right, that wasn’t it. Nothing changed after removing the valve picture previously so the pump is now off. Even with the pump removed I could only see the two valves, one either side and the same as previously removed. So I did battle to remove the bracket and there it was hidden under the bracket that had no access or gap to see through. So the cut off valve was not functioning so I’ve removed it and hit that with 12v and again it free up and started to work. My intentions are to remove the final valve on the side that also isn’t clicking give that a wiggle and that them all removed and hopefully all functioning correctly. Then I’ll cut a hole in the top of the bracket so I have access to the cut off valve without having to remove the whole pump. My questions of the day today are, as I rotate the pump it rattles, is this normal? And how do I time a Lucas 028 130 081c pump? There’s a plate on the back of the pump as pictured, do I remove this? There’s no access in the centre it’s solid metal. Regards Rob IMG_6243.mov

I sometimes find the same floatiness bothering me, especially after driving another car. It feels like there's unnecessary rebound when moving slow speed over obstacles - and it gets less bothersome the higher the speed. That's why I inquired in the past for experiences on suspension upgrades. I have no clue if B4 is enough an upgrade for it - I'd like to hear about it if someone did replace them on all corners. I think there are two upgrade options. One is B6, which can be installed on the factory springs. Some users have installed them and report good results, albeit they have done it with lowering springs. They report a bit stiffer ride over small bumps, but more controlled ride. Check it out here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/540037-suspension-upgrades-for-sel-combi/ and https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531268-suspension-upgrade-on-octavia-mk4/ Ps, there are some reports that the B6 can increase the ride height a bit, since they use the mono tube design (in the front), and run with higher internal gas pressures than standard shocks. The other option is Koni Special Actives, which are said to stiffen up the suspension, rather than let it wallow on corners or speed bumps, and make it softer for sharp bumps/holes. I have yet to see anyone install them on MK4 Octavia, however, there are some reviews for them for Superb mk3 and Oct mk3. Some find them nice, others think they are not consistent or not sporty enough. You having the 4x4 setup are blessed with multi link suspension, so I'd be more inclined to upgrade suspension rather than sell and move to another model. I, as yourself, am not necessarily willing to sacrifice rise height for improved suspension performance. If one is set on lowering it, then there are lots of coilover options that I'm sure can improve the ride without necessarily worsening the comfort. Let us know if you do any suspension work!

Many EV owners who public charge, and have choice, avoid single and twin charge sites and head to ones with 4,6,8,12, 16, 32, 100 charger sites as much less chance of all the chargers being occupied or out of service. The Google software ware tells us how many chargers are available in real time and what their kwh price is. There are well over 120k public chargers now and aim is to have 300k within the next 5 years though my next EVs to replace the 5 and Scenic will gave more range further reducing my need to public charge. There are of course over 30M biuldings in the UK which one can use a 3 pin plug with which is what i do when visiting my brother. He is on Octopus COSY tariff as it is a new biuld with no gas supply. I charge up and give him over the odds so we both win. Electricity will be significantly cheaper from today due to the vat cut. I have charged a little on public chargers as well at home but also at the tens of thousands of destinations chargers, works ones, clients and hotels. There is a scheme which households can sell their electricity to other EV users who park on their drive for a bit. HMRC allow up to £1k pa of sals before registration and taxation is required. Co Charge, Zap-Home and Just Charge to name 3. I would like to acquire thd ability to 3 phase charge and it will be high on my next home attributes. My Scenic can charge at 22 KW AC 3 phase. Might need a Home battery to 3 phase machine, at least 11 KW which is where most cars are going as, like my 5, the more recent priority is to have the EV able to act as supply to the devices, V2L, or home ir sell vack to the Grid at a higher price than bought. Things moving fast but good to know I can go many hours or even days from batteries in the home or in the car.

I use these on ours, very good all round even cold and wet or hot wet and on some snow. Still great in hot dry etc etc All round very good. https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b8684s7991p207137/Maxxis_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Maxxis_Premitra_All_Season_AP3_195_50_R15_86V_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB/RS_GB

Is it a hatchback or estate? Is it the 150PS version? Does it have DCC (electronically regulated) shock absorbers? Does it have lowered ride height, standard ride height or increased ride height? What springs and shock absorbers does it use? "skoda parts com" can be used to find these parts by parking the car in the online garage using its VIN number...then when the springs and shock absorbers are searched for, only the correct ones are shown. An alternative to using "skoda parts com" is to obtain the car's build codes. There's a seller on ebay that sells the build codes for 3 Euros (about £2.50). Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find the listing. A build code is made up of 3 letters and/or numbers. The car might have around 180 of them, so there are a lot. Each build code tells you something about what the car was fitted with in the factory. By referring to the build codes and the Skoda parts catalogue, it's often possible to work out what springs and shock absorbers the car left the factory with. If it's an Octavia MK4 2.0TDI 150PS 4x4 estate, the springs might be 5Q0411105GM or 5Q0411105GN front and 5Q0511115BJ rear...based on the Kilen and gknautomotive online spring catalogues. If the car is standard ride height, one option is to fit Bilstein B6 shock absorbers. These cost about £650 for all four shock absorbers, plus the fitting cost. Bilstein B6 shock absorbers have a superior mono-tube design, which is more expensive than the standard twin-tube design...hence their superior performance.

Factory reset on your infotainment would be my first step

these things had BETTER work. This side was MUCH harder, left hand being weaker i needed help from my lovely neighbour to get the brake lever back on the cable, everything else went reasonably well. I don't look forward to EVER doing this job again, lol.

Stabilus is OEM by VAG Change need both Side 4 Minutes

Haven't used them but have considered them and have used other Vredestein products such as the Hytrac, Sportrac 3 and Ultrac Sessanta. All were excellent tyres and good value. Recently though I've used Falken and Goodyear tyres as replacements as the Vredesteins can sometimes be difficult to find.

See that's exactly what I mean. It's supposed to be corrosion that causes it, and this car had been a long time since it's last fluid change so it is possible (that's probably also what caused the ABS module blockage or valve seizure). But it is also an aluminium master cylinder I thought, so can it corrode that badly even in the presence of moisture? That's basically what my dad said, that he's bled brakes on enough cars before and it's never been a problem, and that isn't all stuff with no servo.