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Any opinions? Sorry for the bump.

Thanks for the replies. After giving the matter further thought and reading up on it, I now believe that the key, being in a tight pocket of my jeans, un-synchronised itself by the buttons being inadvertently pressed a number of times when the the car was out of range. Then when back inside and and furiously fiddling with the fob pressed against the start button, it re-synchronised as it should and at the same time, I must have unwittingly locked the car, thereby activating the safe lock! For that scenario to be correct, it would mean that an un-synchronised key fob will still unlock the car (?). Any thoughts?

I had a 'puncture' quite a fw years ago that I couldn't find. Turned out to be a small sticker on the bead of the tyre that had a crack in it, leaking air through the middle of the sticker. Sticker removed, no further issues.

treid pretty much everything as far as settings goes. cant even get volume through the phone on it`s own..

Do you still have the broken piece? If so, scrub up the chrome face of each piece with abrasive paper or a file, then use araldite to glue it back together with a steel or aluminium reinforcing plate over the chrome to add strength. Araldite is remarkably strong when left to set properly. It won't look great but you will then have the time wait until you find a correct replacement. Contacting sellers who are breaking Superb Mk 1's will surely come up with one eventually.

Could be the prongs in the expansion tank are dirty hence the alarm. Try giving them a scrape with a screw driver and top up to max and monitor it. If theres still white smoke its most likely HG especially with release of pressure and brown coolant. You could run the car stationary without expansion cap and look for bubbles in tank or oil on top. Alasdair

Fitted an NRF one to my old octavia and had no problems. Have a look if febi do one as well. Avoid any brandless ones on ebay etc. Alasdair

I had similar problem. Very slight corrosion on alloys and tyre leaked at bead seal I checked before reinflating as my compressor was borrowed and it was around 25psi and a few bubbles were spotted. Reckon a flake of paint may have caused it and cleared itself once reinflated to proper pressure at garage. Eventually it started to deflate again so I got the local tyre service to remove and clean rim and reseat tyre. Been good since. Never had a bead seal go on steel but alloys seem to be prone. Alasdair

After a week on the road in the Heat of Italy, still works fine 👍🏻

In case anyone finds this thread at a later date, I got quoted £1718 for the OEM retractable towbar fitted at my local main dealer, DM Keith.

@pab567 Hello, I am looking for the latest firmware update for my Skoda Scala (MIB3 Bolero). Here are my current system details: SW Train: MEN3_EU_SK370_P2345L MU SW: 1790 Could you please share the link to download the correct and newer firmware version for my unit? Thank you very much for your help!

Good morning Got the classic speed 4 only fan issue so think the heater resistor needs changing. Firstly, I'm a mechanical novice. Is it realistic for a DIY job? Secondly, finding a vast range of prices for the part. Can anyone recommend a decent quality part that will last please? Many thanks!

I think we all find have our own level with it - risk vs spend on prevention. There are Imany far better, dearer cars in the houses near to me, out on driveways….but car thieves are as discerning, if not more, than vRS owners, haha.

Thanks @rum4mo , I believe my car uses the newer R-1234yf (I just had the system re-charged -- it had been struggling to cool at times, just barely noticeable; I think I recall overhearing the mechanic comment on the gas version; it was in fact approximately half down on the gas charge -- remarkable that it was still cooling almost-always mostly-well at that, against 40°C outdoor temperatures for hours on open-to-full-sun French Autoroutes at 130km/hr! ). I found some ambient temperature - gas - pressure ranges numbers online against which to compare. My one concern is about being actually driving while having the OBDeleven app talking with my OBDeleven (Bluetooth-connected) sensor (1st generation OBDeleven device) scanning, because I've noticed that some car systems/ control units seem to react to the fact of being scanned, and I don't want something critical to driving to suddenly be affected by the scan. Any experience, scanning with an OBDeleven (Gen 1), while driving (an Octavia III Facelift, 2017-2020 model, Diesel 2.0DSG-7)? My fallback is to drive a bit (making the engine work, in the sun, with the A/C on), park at the edge of a fuel station, and immediately start the OBDeleven scan. thanks,

Hi there! Looking around forums and tube I saw some Audi and VW guys upgraded their Virtual Cockpit with sporty layouts (like RS Audi or R for VW), where the rev counter is definitely more awesome than standard and You can see also all the sport info You want, from Turbo pressure to oil/water temp, kw available etc. (actually I activated only performance monitor on infotainment). So my question is: is possible to activate/upgrade Skoda RS cars layout on my 1.5 car (as the one in the pic, which is the one for Octavia RS)? The only thing I was able to do was putting RED rings around rev meter/speedometer. The most sporty layout I actually can see is like the one attached BUT rev meter is available only as circle behind the speed and not as the one attached (which I like more). Any idea how to code it?

Hi, My Kodiaq has been registrated in April 22. I let almost all driver aids ON all the time. I ´ve got used to them, especially Lane Assist. Whereas I used it only on long motorway trips in my MY17 Superb Estate Mk3, it’s now always ON on my Kodiaq as I feel it less intrusive. The only system I ´d like to permanent my disable or at least mitigate is the Stop & Start. But it can’t be done anymore with VCDS (with the ´low voltage start limit’ trick), as it used to be. I’ve driven a MY25 Kamiq as a courtesy car last year. It bipped each time I was above the speed limit, Even for 2 or 3 km/h. Really stressing and nerving especially when the TSR doesn’t get the right speed sign at the right time… I ´m then doubting. Will I replace my current Kodiaq within 2028 (roughly) or do I keep it a bit longer ? Decision, decision…

I'm 8 months in to Elroq 85 ownership from previous 2.0TSIs in different forms. It's fantastic. Really comfortable, the range has never been an issue. Range in summer at 100% is above 300, and in the deep winter around 240-250. We've gone further afield twice now - as long as you use some basic common sense to plan your charges, it's no issue. I first drove EV in 2023 as my dad had one as a business lease and the public charging infrastructure has completely transformed even since then. I would argue that potentially no home charging is a big deal; public charging prices whilst still cheaper than petrol, will hamper any savings on fuel. Also, it's big. And heavy. It rides really well; I'm on the standard Sportline suspension, but you just can't escape the weight. We also have a Cupra Born with the 59kwh battery; that is a lot more fun and hides its weight better, helped by the smaller battery. In terms of trim, Sportline comes very well equipped. Driver package (DCC) would be recommended just to soften the ride further. Having Sportline also reduces the price of the extra packs; if I were given the choice, I'd spec the Advanced package too. It brings a lot of extra goodies including the HUD which you might think is a gimmick, but it's absolutely brilliant on our Born and helps to avoid looking at the small drivers display screen for speed/limits/ACC & Nav info.

Hello, Recently got a Superb Mk 2 (2015) SE Business and was wondering if it was possible with VCDS to make both the memory displays on the maxidot into "Total Trip Memory"s? Instead of memory 1 being the Single Trip Memory. I'd like to be able to have one as a kind of "all time" counter and one as a "few days but more than one journey" counter, ideally. Thanks

Yesterday i took out air filter and omg was it filthy 👀 last time I've cleaned it was in April this year before going stage 2. Got Ramair filter cleaning kit so gave it a good wash and rinse and left it to dry for 24 hours. Today i oiled it with oil supplied in cleaning kit and fitted it back💪🏻

That looks very smart 😍 i love those carbon fibre 💪🏻 where did you get the inlet manifold cover and battery cover from please? My engine bay looks bare compared to yours 😣

Not bad at all. Original concept is attributed to @JR RS he installed a usb socket instead of cigarette lighter in the rear ash tray and then routed the cable through. You need a 90degree plug into the adapter. There’s a hole under the felt you can come out of. I did similar but used a slimline usb socket plugged in that is low profile enough to still allow ash tray to be opened. I also have a MagSafe wireless charger mounted at the front fed in a similar way from the front lighter socket but I find the phone gets hot on long journeys. Handy for short ones though. And I plug in in the armrest and cool phone as you say for longer journeys. I can send you links to the parts I used if you want them.

Thanks for these ideas. I would have thought the leaking valve would have shown up with bubbles through the water because it lost all the air within less than a day but I wasn't aware of the wheel corrosion issue. The alloys are now over 13 years old and 100,000 miles. That might also tie in with the complete deflation but once reinflated/over-inflated it seating itself. All was looking good at 8pm this evening so I'm crossing my fingers and waiting to see what the pressure is in the morning. Thanks again.

The individual tyre pressure readout s were n option when I bought mine late 2024. I did get the option fitted on mine.

How much effort was the initial fitting? If love a usb socket in the arm rest cubby as I use wireless android auto and could do with keeping phone cool. Also it means I can close the little cover over the usb/12 V socket and make things look tidy. As an aside the power tailgate seems to have stopped working today. Goes up about 1/3rd of the way and stops and beeps. Won't go up or down. Just beeps 3 times. Can move it down a bit and the the button will close it. OBD11 gives an error message: Hall sensor in motor 1 for rear hatch - B121115 I've got a warranty from the dealership so hopefully they can sort - feels wrong though. I've always fixed all my own previous car problems

Definitely can swap around the ballasts to see if it's the issue or not. The ballast is accessible from the top, via the engine bay. It sits on the back of the headlight. Silver looking metal square thingy. If the problem moves to the other side, then u know the ballast is the issue and it can b replaced.