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My above post continued..

Wahoo! I'm getting myself back into photography and invested in a new Nikon D850, some snaps over the last few days, I can't fit them all in one post so I'll add another one below. Sunset taken at Sandbanks on Tuesday. Wild horses in the New Forest yesterday.

Holy Fk that's some deal. Damn that slow opening front seat damn it to hell!

I have a 1.5 TSI DSG 4x4 MY19, but I won't praise it, as I'm superstitious. 😊

Of-course he would say that, he just took 3 seconds to put your car model in the catalog and repeat to you what the page was showing, really helpful of them So the Golf R variant shocks are the same for B4 DampTronic and B8 standard , but somehow not for B6 Damptronic, lol... That web page is so accurate, or shall I say complete, that it only mentions a front B4 model for the Superb, so you can't have the rears if you go for B4 Damtronic I bet someone has been really lazy with the Skoda/Superb entries. I wouldn't think you can resolve this by a quick chat on their page, you would need to involve either some dealer with access to their technical department or contact Bilstein yourself and explain why they share shock numbers in all other series but B6 Damptronic, and also why their site does not list a rear B4 Damptronic but only a front...

Welcome to the forum. All 2 litre TSI / TDI's are Wet clutch DSG / S-tronic from VW Group. Only diesels with a 7 Speed Twin Dry Clutch DQ200 DSG are 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6 TDI's.

The Skoda Octavia MK3 150HP can do about 134mph depending on version, ie. hatchback or estate, manual or automatic gearbox, etc. This mean that H speed rated tyres won't be enough. You need V speed rated tyres which are good for up to 150mph. The speed category is stated in the technical vehicle documentation.

============= IMPORTANT UPDATE =============== I was investigating further the rear drop, as I was puzzled as to how it ended up being at the exact same height as the front even though I used the 6.5mm thicker rear Audi pads. I mean yes, the even drop front and rear on mine looks very good and sporty but what about people that just install the springs without Audi pads? They shouldn't end up with a whole 6.5mm lower rear end surely?? Turns out I was half-screwed by Eibachs own catalog, well to some extent. For buying my springs I used the "Eibach product catalog 2017" which was available from one of their websites until last year when I also downloaded it, I attach it in this message. There the kit number for 2.0 4x4 is given as: E10-85-042-03-22 comprising of F11-85-042-03-FA front, F11-15-007-04-HA rear. However going on their online part search: http://web2.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?10=60730C6FF832499EA965D097B657382D279004&14=4&12=100 the kit showing up now for both 280 and 272 is a different one: E10-79-012-04-22 comprising of F11-85-042-03-FA front (same as in the PDF and the one i put on) but F11-79-008-01-HA rear! Weirdly enough, my F11-15-007-04-HA rears have somehow lost 30kg from their old rating. In the PDF they are rated for 1250kg but on-line they show up as 1220kg if one searches for that part number. So all in all, and according to the on-line catalog right now (who knows if and when that changes), I have installed rear springs with slightly lower rear axle load rating (1220kg vs 1253kg). Is that enough to cause a greater drop, and in particular this 6.5mm that I got back from the Audi pads? I happened to replace the pads with thicker ones so the car sits nice, but I would probably have gained another 5-6mm rear with the correct rear ones. I could just buy two updated rears and install them but not sure if it's worth the hassle considering I don't tow or generally go anywhere near the max load, and the car sits evenly front and back... I also contacted Eibach explaining the situation but I doubt they will look into it. In any case, anyone going with Eibachs double check the correct kit for your car via their online parts catalog as any other consolidated documentation you might have already might be out of date. eibach-produktkatalog_2.pdf

Have to start from bad news - now also VW's portal requires registration to download map updates 😞 previously there was ability of select different car models and choose files for different media systems and regions +++ edit 2020.06.16 17:25 +++ died https://webspecial.volkswagen.de/vwinfotainment/de/de/index/downloads/maps-download#/ but https://webspecial.volkswagen.de/vwinfotainment/int/en/index/downloads/maps-download#/ still alive, thanks to @langers2k for info! +++ edit off +++ another news, style of forming file names is changed # previous # # "P169_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z" # "P175_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z" # "P177_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z" # "P184_N60S5MIBH3_EU.7z" 2019.11.08 5d # "P187_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q3.19" 2020.05.20 3d interesting how will transform Škoda's absolute random style # previous # # "HIGH12_P169_EU_2018_2019.zip" # "HIGH12_P175_EU_2019.zip" # "HIGH12_P177_EU_201920.zip" # "HIGH12_P184_EU_2020.zip" 2019.12.03 2d # "HIGH12_P187_EU_2020????.zip" ----.--.-- +++ edit 2020.06.18 +++ # "HIGH12_P187_EU_202022.zip" 2020.05.19 2d for Skoda Columbus (MIB1/MIB2/MIB2GP), Seat Navi Plus (MIB2), VW Discover Pro (MIB1/MIB2/MIB2GP), Audi MMI Navigation Plus (MIB1/MIB2 A3, A4, A5, A6, A7, Q2, Q5, Q7) # ECE 2020-2021 27Gb Version: V03.959.806.GG 0187 ECE 2020/2021 VW portal: #- #- #- http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/P187_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q3.19.7z dead: 2020.07.0? VW portal: http://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P187_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT_Q3.19.7z VW portal: http://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P187_N60S5MIBH3_EU_NT.7z Files inside: 2019.12.19 Downloadable: 2020.05.20 3d Published: 2020.06.15 Škoda portal: http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P187_EU_202022.zip Files inside: 2020.05.12 (content equal) Downloadable: 2020.05.19 Published: 2020.06.17 Seat portal: - older, 2019-2020 # Rest of World 2020-2021 23Gb Version: V03.959.806.GS 0088 ROW 2020/2021 VW portal: #- #- #- http://vw-mapscdn.tdd.adacorcdn.com/P88_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT_Q3.19.7z dead: 2020.07.0? VW portal: http://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P88_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT_Q3.19.7z VW portal: http://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/P88_N60S5MIBH3_ROW_NT.7z Files inside: 2020.01.21 Downloadable: 2020.05.20 3d Published: 2020.--.-- Škoda portal: http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P88_ROW_202022.zip Files inside: 2020.05.12 (content equal) Downloadable: 2019.06.01 Published: 2020.06.?? ======= coverage ======= # EU Albania *, Andorra, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina *, Bulgaria *, Denmark, Germany, Estonia *, Finland, France, Gibraltar, Greece, Ireland, Iceland, Italy, Kosovo *, Croatia, Latvia *, Liechtenstein, Lithuania *, Luxembourg , Malta, Macedonia (Former Yugoslav Republic) *, Moldova *, Monaco, Montenegro *, Netherlands, Norway, Austria, Poland, Portugal, Romania *, Russia(European part) *, San Marino, Sweden, Switzerland, Serbia *, Slovakia, Slovenia *, Spain, Czech Republic , Ukraine *, Hungary, Vatican City, United Kingdom, Belarus *, Cyprus * * partially # ROW Argentina *, Australia, Bahrain, Botswana *, Brazil *, Brunei *, Chile *, Indonesia *, Israel, Jordan, Qatar, Kuwait, Lesotho *, Malaysia, Mexico *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, New Zealand, Oman, Philippines * , Reunion *, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, South Africa, Swaziland *, Thailand *, Turkey *, United Arab Emirates * partially ======= instruction ======= 1. download 7z/zip archive from direct link 2. extract content to SD Card or USB 3. insert memory device into slot of Columbus 4. start of update usually is offered automatically, manually can be found under Navi-> Settings !!! note for MAC users -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/452002-direct-download-links-for-ece-20182019-maps/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-5095042 couple of potential questions are answered in previous post

I'm no expert but when I researched this a year or two back it appeared that dq200 has the dry clutch and has a torque limit of 250Nm, so anything with torque above that is a wet clutch.

😢😭

We had the 1.5TSi engine in an Audi A3 (badged TFSi by Audi but the same engine I believe). We had no issues with it other than it simply wasn't fast enough for my wife, who now has a GTi 245 Golf. I was going to get the 1.5TSi Karoq but opted for the 2.0TDi has it has more torques and I love the tall gearing..... Obviously given the stories around you are right to be cautious, but it would appear that not all 1.5's are afflicted. Unless you are buying brand new I would guess a test drive in your chosen vehicle before handing over the cash is the way to go.....

Similar for me. Still driving my 2018 Karoq 1.5 DSG SEL. Absolutely no issues whatsoever, same as above. Probably the best car I have owned. A keeper.

Thanks, Ill try in Dingbro.

bought one! its the one I mentioned in the OP that was actually 64 Plate, hatchback, 49,000 miles, petrol with DSG in black, 19" anthracite alloys (was this a factory option or has the previous owner had the diamond cut ones refurbed ?) Columbus nav with 8" screen Canton sound upgrade heated part leather seats Black pack plastic Skoda bootliner/tray thingy general condition is excellent, few little marks on bodywork, and a couple of marks on one of the alloys. feels very nice to drive, have never owned an auto before so that will take a little getting used to.

I can report that the same works even without switching on the car power, as I completed the whole SW update with only the radio system powered on. Only after the SW update was completed, I needed to turn on car power to enable OBD2 connection for the adaptation process.

Wow, that is shiny........

BriskodaJeff might know as he lives in the Bristol area and drives a 190bhp Superb Mk3 diesel.

@sneznymuz till 18. jun there were year old 1310 files, now just half year old, that means update is done i'll PM bash script, but don't share it! i worried they can close this hole, similar as VCDS coding on 2020 models. btw. all the media software and maps firstly are developed for Audi, and they have few times limit for user updates by him self, then you have to pay for activating next few updates. VW, Škoda and Seat have some delay, first smaller, last huge.

Less the 20K, more than 10K

It seems 3 camouflaged Enyaks have been shown in Ireland https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/innovation/a-behind-the-scenes-look-masked-enyaq-iv-in-ireland/

Hi Phantom there is no real answer for you other than go with your gut. The engine is new and you have no frame work to judge longevity so our opinions are just a very small sample of a massive pond. The only sure fact is that VWG have updated the engine and that would indicate they felt it needed changes. How those changes play out over time who knows. The game for VWG (and other manufacturers) has changed considerably these last few years with new regulations and a move to new technology so it is all a bit unknown as to how the 1.5 will fair over a 10 year life. Your comments indicate a buy and hold purchase? If I wanted a long term bet I think I am nervous about my current 1.5 DSG and I will look to move it on sooner, especially if there are any good deals once recession really kicks in... If you want to keep it for a short period say 3 years then sure go for it. I love the tech I have and the switch from manual to DSG has been great, but like you the version of the 1.5 I have makes me nervous... 😏

That link was a model of brevity and clarity that others should aspire to, especially the graph. The "Hi guys!" influencers on Youtube or whatever they call themselves would make at least four 20+ minute videos to impart less information in a very unclear manner.

Something was 'Lost in translation' from the engineers in Germany & the media spin in German to those doing a website / media release in the CZ and Czech to English. 'Skoda is replacing the previous entry-level 115-PS (85kW) 1.6TDI with an equally low powered 2.0 TDI from the new EVO generation.' or just 'of equal power!' from the 1.6TDI and this 2.0TDI with engine management to get the WLTP and RDE2 that they needed to get.

Sorry yes you're right that's what I meant, linear was the wrong word, I meant proportional. I know the resistance changes with heat etc but for simplicity sake I think it's safe to assume the resistance will remain fairly constant over the voltage range that it is possible to drive the bulb with. That link is interesting

The manual for my 2014 Octavia lists the following as approved tyres for a 1.4 TSI: 205/55 R16 91 V 205/50 R17 89 V 225/45 R17 91 V 225/40 R18 92 Y So - as the previous poster noted, if you're running 16" wheels you need V-rated tyres with a minimum load rating of 91. If you don't have a paper manual, they can be downloaded here: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Model/Octavia_5E Just choose the relevant production date from the box at the top.

Finally been allowed to come out of my company car scheme - no more massive BIK tax bills! Took delivery of a 1 year old Superb Est Sportline Plus 1.5 TSi dsg. It's only got about 9k miles on it and I got a good finance deal. Went for petrol this time as don't do the miles to justify diesel and didn't want DPF/adblue issues. Previous car was a Superb SE Business 2.0Tdi estate - I can swap over bootliner and dog guard to my new car A few boring stats on my old car:- In 4 years did 36622 miles, used 756 gallons of diesel. Averaged 50 mpg (12p/mile) Brilliant service from Mitchell Skoda in Chester.

@geochr You could pop into Tesco or Asda and there will be 5w 30 Full Synthetic to VW 504 / 507 sitting and quite possibly reduced, or 5w 40 Full Synthetic to VW 502. If you are going to service annually or at 10,000 miles or under. Loads of choice about of oil for 'much cheapness'. & D & A Motor Factors or Dingbro for your consumables. Support your local businesses. But then using 'Multi Nationals' is OK if the price is right.

You can’t just copy or drag the downloaded files to the SD card, they are zipped files and require unzipping to the SD card. As above, the VW portal is much better and they supply a pdf with full instructions and link to unzip software. Oh and the latest maps are 2020/21

New wheels on my mk3 last week.Japan Racing JR25 8.5 x 19 et40 with 225/35/19 tyres. Fit well, no spacers yet. Might try 12mm spacers on the back. Needs to be lowered at some point too.

Headlight washers not working on LED and HID are a major fail, on halogen a minor fail. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-6

Massive QA fail. Push for some sort of compensation (free brake fluid replacement and oil change?) as well as free replacement with correct part.

Only specific to TDI. On the Yeti you have an older type of engine EA189. Different beast. You can look for the mass measured soot and mass calculated soot.

Well the last of the deals on the M4 seem to be in the air, as production has stopped and they are really strong at the moment. If I wasn't in the financial pickle I find myself in, I would definitely consider this deal. Perfect spec for this car too imho (just make sure you go for the 19" wheels). TRL is well known to BMW forum users as a cheap source of new M based and similar cars https://www.babybmw.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129108

Sorry, missed that you couldn't actually download the maps You don't download maps to sd card, rather you download to your mac then unzip the files (I use keka to unzip but there are many extraction progs) then as per previous post to get them on the card.

These things r used to "trick" the car electronics into thinking that the usual DCC dampers r still there. The car's drive modes will tell the shocks to go into Comfort/Normal/Sport dampening modes, but it will have no effect as it goes to this "dummy" device, and not to the aftermarket shocks. These r designed for non-DCC compatible shocks. Usually not putting this dummy DCC devices will throw errors. The very very expensive Koni DCC compatible shocks will retain the drive mode dampening changes.

It is not near the exhaust, it is in front of the O-S-F wheel behind the wheel arch liner. This area is outside the engine bay and will be colder. This is why you need to put in screenwash with antifreeze properties. This would be better posted in your original post only. Thanks AG Falco

So - yes, you should do the following: Perform a Factory Reset on the car prior to handing it over (to include all personalisation) Remove the car you have in Skoda Connect. The dealers don't ever do it correctly (because a lot of their technicians either don't know how to do + neither do the sales people).

To be sure of the car kerb weight, take it to a public weigh bridge, the book figures can be a fair way off reality. I tow a 2011 Sprite Major 6 with MTPLM up-rated to 1500kg (from 1405kg). Just upgraded from S2 hatch to S3 estate (also had a S1 before that!) and not actually towed with this car yet due to all the current madness, but not got any concerns as the S1 & S2 towed fine and never had any issues.

I agree, in the brochure I have it was £155, no money, but I suppose it all adds up so you have to decide what you want or a £15000 car quickly becomes £20000 The greenline is listed in the brochure to have optional rear windows, dunno why your dealer said no, but not surprised as most dont know their ass from the head. It's not that big of a job to add them, and with more and more parts becoming used it dont take long to aquire the "kit".

In my youth all our holidays were in a caravan but I've only towed one 20 yards (Moving my father's). My advice is to rent one and take a short UK trip before buying. Some people (includes SWMBO) can't stand the sound of rain on the roof. Issues to consider - caravan over a camper With a caravan you don't have to pack everything up when you want to go out you can get into multi storey car parks when you have left the caravan at the site If you tow a small car with the camper (to avoid the second bullet) it is tolled as a trailer

Found a video that worked though mine was still slightly different a few more steps to go though. But got it done. Will leave this here in case anyone else may need it.

Looking mean and clean.💗

Just had a colour correction and polish done

Thanks buddy, much appreciated! Of course if there's some way of hooking up sometime then would be great to do a comparison. Good to hear you're pleased with both the performance of your sub, and the long-term quality of the enclosure. With regards to padding the arches, it's cheap as chips to do; the 200g bags of soft toy filling were on special offer (2 for £6.00) and I bought 14 bags...8 were returned for a refund! More progress last night getting rid of the rattles in the passenger door. I replaced the broken lock cable, which was a doddle, and hot glued the gaps where the very top section of the door card is fixed, along with the connector blocks on the LED light strip, as they are really loose and rattly - I made sure I got the hot glue to run down the gaps in between the two sections. The card can still flex as hot glue dries with some flexibility. The pics were taking during the job, and I trimmed the leather slightly (you can see in the bottom left of the pic) before adding more hot glue as that small section is responsible for an awful lot of the creaking noise! Door was held up vertically to allow the glue to run down in between gap before adding a bit more to bring it right up past the join. Connection for LED lightstrip glued, with all the sections where blue and black mounting points also done, as that the mounting plate for the door handle...which also creaked a little. I checked where the wiring loom was loose on the door, and ran sections of the speaker gasket foam in line with them on the door skin, along with wrapping small sections around the loom in the clips where it fits loosely. Tight but still flexible. Also stuffed a little more of the foam filling into the tweeter housing where the cable was loose. Took the car for a spin afterwards and it was worth doing as there are no more creaks and rattles from that door now! I'll do the other doors over the next few evenings, as it's now starting to feel a bit luxurious in there with the reduction in noise, squeaks and rattles so far 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for reading, Nick

Hi All, Big update! Slight change of plans with regards to the sub, and I decided I didn't want to lose the boot space, so cancelled the order for the Match sub and went for a custom-fit enclosure & Focal RSB-250 sub. Focal don't make a grille so the bars were just a cheap job from Amazon. Didn't get any pics of the enclosure, but the quality is amazing, and it arrived within a few days from Poland for a sniff over £90.00...don't know how they do it, but here's the link for anybody interested: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/173036155328?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=173036155328&targetid=908661247816&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006636&poi=&campaignid=10199631325&mkgroupid=103626356284&rlsatarget=pla-908661247816&abcId=1145987&merchantid=101742229&gclid=CjwKCAjw57b3BRBlEiwA1Imyts1hpIWvKJCveT81B7VLG6OKFD4-50S3p1VHdB9Q1K4WEHNoE5HvPRoCCQQQAvD_BwE Dual voicecoil wiring to bring the impedance down to 2 ohms: Some Dynamat on the rear panel - a bit of wadding also went in as the driver's meant for a 20 litre enclosure, but the enclosure's on 15 litre. You can also see where I removed the terminal panel and used some silicone sealant to completely seal it; the front panel is made from two sheets of MDF, so also needed a tiny bead of sealant along the edges, and speaker gasket foam tape around the lip: Driver in, and grille on, and the job's done: I was lucky to get the use of a friend's carport over the last week, which was great as it meant I could work on it in the rain, and not have to worry about rushing to put it back together in a hurry, so now was the time to work on sound-deadening the rear quarter panels and wheel arches. Pay attention to the two pieces of grey foam behind and next to the seat belt reel, as these are obviously there to block noise from the void entering the cabin. Neither of these were seated correctly on either side so weren't really doing anything; I wonder if this could be the problem for those suffering with a boomy boot? There's also another piece inside the area of the wheel arch and outer panel quarter skin, again these weren't seated correctly. I'll add this info to the thread on the main Octavia 3 section. Getting there: And the final touch; Hobbycraft's finest "soft toy filling" to fill the voids: I didn't get any pictures, but also put Dynamat on the inside front of the wheel arches, and filled the space with soft toy filling; this is the area covered by the big plastic trim in between the doors and the rear seat backs. Also thanks to @JohnnyType2 for the great idea of running the sub cable down the centre console and cutting a hole in the carpet to run it down the transmission tunnel and pop out under the rear seat bench - very easy, and much nicer than trying to remove all the trim around the bottom of the doors I'm sure. Not content with just doing the inside, my buddy had a few sheets of Silent Coat left over from another project, and as there was the space and a set of axle stands kicking about, the rear wheels and arch liners came off, and the outer arches also got some treatment: The difference this has made is crazy...there's virtual silence from the rear of the car at 30-40mph, and sooooo much quieter and serene at motorway speeds. The only problem is that it now sounds like the engine & road noise from the from the front has increased 🤣 Considering how easy it was to deaden the rear arches, I'll do the front sometime soon. And all back together; my buddy had some sorbothane (isolating material) washers, which work by being under compression, so there are two of these at the bottom of the sub between it and the mounting points, and then at the top of the sub where it clips into the car trim - we cut the washers into section, straightened them and pushed them into the space - the sub is extremely rigid in there, but also decoupled so doesn't rattle at all! The pic isn't very forgiving with the difference between the original carpet and that on the sub, but it doesn't look that different in the flesh...and it's in the boot, so I don't care as I'm not going to be looking at it 😉 The only thing I have to do now is sort a couple of rattles in the front doors; both doors are doing it in the same place at the top, near the back where the door card is split and stuck together where the LED lights trip is. I think some hot glue and foam padding should cure that, as when I push that area with my hand the rattles stop. Having the sub in has allowed me to roll the low frequencies off form the front speakers, which has opened them up considerably. I've currently got the crossover point set at 100hz, after playing about with it at 80 & 120hz. I've also experimented with muting the rear speakers and just going with the fronts + sub, which sounds so much better. I think due to the position of the rear speakers (the tweeter's much closer to your head than the front speakers and points backwards), then it smears the image and sounds all phasey - I've checked and double-checked the wiring, and flipped phase live in the amp's software and it just doesn't sound anywhere near as good with the rear speakers enabled. This isn't a problem, as I hardly ever have rear passengers, and it also gives me the ability to remove the passive crossovers from the front speakers, and configure the amp to run them actively with all four channels. I'm probably going to remove the rear speakers, pop the originals back in just to fill the holes, then I have a spare set of Focals just in case...this system goes loud now 😈 I think in the short term, I'll do some measurements with the mic and real time analyser and tweak the amp's EQ settings and see how it goes from there! If you've made it this far, then thanks for reading! Nick

Sept 2014 - March 2015. So yes Jan 2015 a 64 plate. They tried to get all Mk2 First Registered before March, but there are some on 15 plates. Mk 3's were just arriving to customers in 2015, some were late 2014 in Dealerships as Demonstrators. PS SE64 Aberdeen / Aberdeenshire.

Go to this website http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx You can input all those codes and the tool will decode the options and you'll know what options your car left the factory with.

From stuff I've read and experienced, the low cost of a paper filter, from the usual (CP4L?ECP), etc, for under a tenner, changed regularly, will be better then forking out fifty-odd bear tokens for one that MAY just give an extra 2bhp, and need a professional cleaning every 50,000 miles, including cleaning fluid and then re-oiling, with special fluid. Over oil and you may send crap into the maf sensor etc so maybe not a good idea to the lazy owner. Just change the cheap paper one as often as possible, rather then every 40,000 miles or whatever the book says. A clean filter is like clean oil. Go up to the interval, fine- go over it, stupid. Change prior to needing to, cost a bit more but worth it if you can!

What you've said? You have 2 sets installed on the same car or what? As far as I know only these-carbon look were available