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Rusty has been at Wellington European for a couple of weeks, I dropped it off with a list, which grew slightly as they started work. Suspension knock on full lock was caused by the subframe polybush metal inserts being slightly too long so I had torqued the bolts against the insert, not the body itself. This left play in the subframe. They're shortened now. The high pressure line from the brake booster was slightly leaking, so that line has gone off to have a replacement made locally. They're looking at the oil leaks now. But the big news is that it's finally boosting as it should, no more 4k rev cut !! It was caused by corrosion inside the wastegate making it stick, plus the banjo bolt connecting from the intake manifold was corroded, meaning it was tight but leaking and causing a vacuum leak. I'm so excited now about driving the car again.

So the time has come to move my beloved Octy on and I’m super pumped to say that I’ve paid my deposit on this lovely lean green machine 💚 It’s a 2019 Superb SportLine Plus 2.0 TDI 150 DSG with the following options Variable Boot Floor Folding tow bar Exclusive Dragon Green paint That’s all it has for now but there’s a laundry list of retrofits to get through on it in time. It’s having a service and DSG oil change currently along with a full prep this week for collection in early March. I legit can’t wait to finally be a Superb owner!!!!

It's a false economy nowdays. The climate system is clever, by having the aircon button on it's just gives the climate system the ability to use the aircon compressor. The climate control will only use the aircon compressor when it needs it to maintain temperature or humidity levels. Thus the fuel economy impact is actually very small. And is certainly cheaper than any aircon repair. The only time I turn my aircon off is when I'm driving with the windows open which is probably a few days a year.

So, this draws us to a close on this thread, no more updates as the lovely Octy has been sold and replaced with something new for collection in early March. If you want to follow the progress on the new toy, the thread is linked below.

Not checked the Yeti but on the Octavia it's combined with the rain/light sensor on vehicles with climatronic.

Got the suspension pretty much done just one front left as I ran out of time, sits at a good height and set them for two clicks off softest to see how it goes, also fitted new exhaust mounts to the back box. I’ll finish off tomorrow and give her a service too well overdue

Yep, the VW version works fine but that's not the point. It's the same software as the Skoda one but Skoda have somehow stuffed it up again. Why should any Skoda owner have to use a sister companies app just because Skoda can't get their act together? Skoda customer service is appalling :( It's becoming more about principal now.

Rain, damp and humid weather can also be common in parts of Scotland and snow. Climate control / AC on can be a very important item to use during these times when opening a sunroof is not simply clever or even windows if no wind deflectors are fitted. But it is good that people can do as they wish and only they know if they get steamy windows. A damp interior is the cause of many vehicles steamy windows. Also faulty A/C or unused A/C.

https://autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-hyundai-ioniq-5-arrives-retro-design-292-mile-range

With the Amundsen unit only an official Skoda card will work and it has to be left permanently in the SD1 or SD2 slot for the Amundsen to continually read the map from the card. On the other hand, things are completely different with the Columbus unit as any spare sd card can be used and the map is then uploaded and stored on the actual unit allowing you to remove the card as it is then not needed. So, as you have an Amundsen, you will have to use your original Skoda card. Copy everything off the card to your pc as a back up just in case anything goes wrong. Format your Skoda card to FAT32 go to http://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/?appVIN=&appLanguage=en-GB and enter your VIN and you will be offered map updates. Choose your map and download it to your pc. Once it has been downloaded you then extract ( unzip ) it. Open the newly extracted folder until you see a folder named " maps " and a text file. Copy the " maps " folder and text file onto your empty Skoda card and then place the Skoda card into your SD1 or SD2 slot. Job done.

Was it a genuine CTS? Spurious ones aren't great. I bought "genuine" ones off a well known auction site and they weren't.

Try swapping injectors round and see if the misfire follows that injector.

Thanks mate that does help

I know the point you're trying to make, but a climate control system doesn't include a bilge pump.

The sensor is not hard wired, it is a separate part. The wiring loom for each abs sensor can be replaced, and can be bought as a spare part from Skoda

Welcome to Briskoda!

That just looks like an ECP product code balls-up to me, they both have the same PR code of 1KS-1KT, same dimensions, and fit the 272 rear brake. Maybe speak to ECP to check? Personally I use ATE road pads and either Brembo or ATE plain discs. Don't think you will have a problem with Pagid either, if that is what you decide.

Good point!

If you live in the USA the M3/M4 would look great but once a front number plate is fitted it undoes all the hard work of the design team and leaves it looking.......awkward. Alfa Romeo avoids this by moving the numder plate to one side which somehow looks better IMHO.

I had this problem on my 2016 model from delivery - I bought it at 3 yrs old (the car, not me!) Had several trips back to the main Skoda dealer who carried out the mandatory battery load test and carried out a full diagnosis before proclaiming everything OK. Then I had a very interesting conversation with the service receptionist who knew about things other than word processers. Her partner was a tech for a BMW dealer and they have the same problem. But it's limited to PETROL engines. Her car was a petrol BMW Mini and she had had the same problem several times. She said that partner had told her that it was a known problem across makes in the industry but NOT with diesel engines. And it also seems that no one quite knows the reason why (petrolgate?). I can cofirm the lack of problems with diesels as I drove various makes over long distances as a field service engineer. Never once did a diesel fail to carry out its stop/start regardless of season, load etc. From discussions with technicians all loads like lights, aircon, wipers, entertainment and so on are part of a complex programme that give different results on different days. Who remembers when an 'on' button turned something on? Finally, I have noticed than when the dealer has performed a service and reset the sevice indicator or checked codes the S/S works perfectly for a couple of days. Not sure if this answers any of your questions, but it should provide some fuel for thought. Just remember, the ignition key works fine.

Hi, After Rusteele posted pics re how he’d adapted floor height everything changed for me. I copied his pics and this helped me keep the Yeti which I love. The whole changing foot pedals somehow became so much easier despite their being a bigger height differential than I’ve ever encountered.

Thanks for that. So far the camera I am looking at is this one Direct Fit Boot Handle Rear View Reversing Reverse Camera For Skoda Octavia Mk3 | eBay Hopefully someone can steer me clear if its wrong!

Causing a stir

@shyVRS245 is there a moosetest vid of a regular FWD superb to compare to the IV? That would be the telling evidence. Good job on the 994 miles. Only 6 more to the magic 1k! I managed 612 last tank with 60 odd remaining. Not a fair comparison though due to the smaller tank and additional EV miles.

DQ250 is a solid gearbox, no concerns really with handing extra torque up to at least stage 2 levels (500-520Nm). DQ381 is supposed to be even more robust but untill tried during similar years/mileage as the DQ250 has been through we can't say for sure.

Thanks for that. Very helpful and makes me think if sportline springs would fit... Your final point is very important. It's actually the motorway where I feel the car is unstable. Not uncomfortable just not as stable as my old car. Could be the weight. Dunno. I'll start with the simple stuff. Maybe a RARB as many others have done will help. It's surprisingly good in the corners just after that little bit extra sharpness and positivity.

the dq250 box is supposed to be good for 400nm, but many people have gone beyond this and it's been ok When i had my ecu stage one high torque map done, i never bothered with a dsg tune and i didn't encounter any problems either.

Also Bilstein B6 for non dcc

I always buy near new cars, in the other word, demo cars. I got my fully loaded 206 sportline (top-trim in Australia) with one year old and 7000kms on the clock. It cost me 38k AUD. A new one with all the options cost more than 60k AUD (60k for the car plus 1700 sunroof and 1100 velvet red paint). My car came with 4 years remaining factory warranty, and two years national wide free service as well. If the car runs perfectly after it run out the warranty period, I might keep it for another few years. If not, I might simply rip it off and buy another demo car.

I can't answer your question on the leak but only using the aircon when it's hot is a sure fire way of causing expensive problems. The refrigerant is a lubricant and without regular running the seals dry out and the pump can fail.

No recoding, the button is just a button. All the key token code stuff lives in the 'start authorisation unit' under the dash.

Although I also think these renders look superb. Now that is a car I could live with

I’m not fussed about performance really, it’ll sit in a car park in work most of the time but I get to look at it from my desk haha 😆 I’ll get a toy for cheap thrills when I can. Lane Assist and heated front screen (will pop a new screen in to support both at the same time) pACC and TJA can be done then too VC PLA 3.0 and trailer assist as it has a tow bar Rear cam and maybe 360 cameras to come Virtual Pedal Rear KESSY handles Some body work mods perhaps and maybe Supernova’s and a brake upgrade down the line.

Brought some new rear springs for the scale coilovers as the old ones were really crusty and the powdercoat started to come off when I cleaned them. 4 days delivery from the states, just the front shocks left to clean up then it’ll be ready for fitting

Hi Everyone, Came across the post and was lucky enough to find a very cheap start stop button on ebay (£5 delivered) so thought I would give it a try. Nothing was wrong with my original button and the reason I did the swap, was to see what a different button would look like and I thought I would share my findings. Thanks again to TasMan for his detailed write up which made the decision to attempt the swap much easier. The part I used was:- A Genuine Audi A4 8K B8 S-LINE Start & Stop Keyless Comfort Switch 8K0905217 which came with the silver cap. I also purchased the red and silver cap from Ali Express, although you can purchase them from ebay for similar prices. I have the black and red trim so thought I would see what the red and silver button looked like, you'll also notice the replaced button lights up in red and not the traditional green. Here are the pictures:- The only difference I've noticed so far, when depressing the button, you have a click which you didn't from my original. Again any mods are carried out at the owners risks.

Hi Everyone, Did the upgrade myself over the weekend and the parts I needed were:- 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda It was cheaper to order the USB adapter with the wiring loom which is plenty long enough from Ali Express and takes it's power from the cigarette lighter. The fiddliest part is the cigarette lighter, I found it easier in the end to pop the middle part out using my finger. There were only 4 torx's screws I had to remove from the rear console and the air vent unit and ashtray pop out relatively easily, tools I used, Torx's 20 and a set of trim tools for the gear stick surround. As previously mentioned, Ali Express do offer the complete unit including usb adapter, I felt more comfortable sourcing most of the parts locally and wanted to replace like for like with the ashtray. I've attached before during and after pictures, hope it helps someone thinking of doing the upgrade. These are the steps I took to do the upgrade. As always, do your own research, perform these upgrades at your own risk and remember it's so easy to break something so be patient if you do decide to go ahead.

Your Your unit is not MIB1, it is MIB2. You should ask in the MIB2 topic!

They are a decent range of budget products - some people like, some dislike. Personally - i like the Sleek interior dressing, their GTR Glue and Tar is also good. I also still use their Fallout remover and used the Slick tyre dressing but this is now EOL. I bought a couple of the "kits" early days and found the products i like; then grabbed 5L tubs when on sale. Hope this helps.

Yep, it's a simple as that with solid discs, you might well have to remove the carrier if you have vented discs. The only trouble I had was that one of the discs took some persuading to come off the hub, turned a 20 minute job into 30 while penetrating oil did its job,

New wheels and tyres: Fake exhaust and chrome strip also vinyl wrapped to match the rest of rear bumper:

The picture of that switch fills me with so much sadness ... I so miss Maplin's ..... What a great shop .. Great for a browse and a look see ... Not the same waiting on the postman ...

Useful E Mail addresses there Chris thanks for those. In the meantime my frustration got to such a point that I E mailed Customer Services in CZ with detail of our issues here in the UK and in particular my non replies. I have had three responses in two days...( How refreshing!!) and wanted details and copies of my correspondence and have been told it is being escalated to the next managerial level and ask me to be patient whilst it is looked into. Now we will have to see what happens but at least someone is talking to me!!!! I emphasised the point that it the big issue is not my personal replies in particular, but the whole dreadful Customer Service scenario in the UK, mine being just one example of many!!

Hello, so easy to change. I had to reattach mine had it had come off the screen. Have a hunt via Google for the workshop manual and gives you a full description on how to take the cover off. The tools is described can be exchanged for a knife or two

Hello. I'm new here. And I'd like to know if anyone can help me with me is doing fitting the red lights on the back doors to a Skoda Superb 3 facelift from 2020. I didn't draw the wires just has the cat's eye on the doors. I don't know where the wires should be drawn from and if I need to activate something with vcds. Thanks

I think that maybe you are lucky that your Skoda dealership is handing out this warning, okay it will mainly be to generate revenue for the workshop, but on the other hand, years ago, when cambelts were a newish thing, a neighbour who admitted to knowing nothing about cars - and his local Ford agent knew this, bought a Ford Escort 1.3L with the CVH new from that local Ford agent and always used them for servicing, during maybe year 5 the cambelt or bits "went" and trashed the engine, when he went into that Ford agent to arrange for repairs, all he got was "yes that can happen, it should have been replaced at 4 years" - that was the last car he ever bought from that friendly local small Ford agent, I reckon that they had let him down very badly, similar advice to what you got given should have been handed out to him at the correct time.