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I'm afraid I've joined the growing list of owners rejecting vehicles plagued with the technological problems. (It would be interesting to know how many have been rejected over recent months.......) As was stated in the recent article in the Guardian:"If the manufacturer was aware of these faults, it is wholly unacceptable that it has continued to take cash from consumers without fixing the issue." https://www.theguardian.com/money/2021/may/01/vw-audi-and-skoda-owners-angry-over-fault-in-sos-warning-system The car has so much potential and is class-leading in so many respects. However, I'm afraid I chose not to live with the unreliability of the technology. A poor experience for me as a customer and a poor episode in the manufacturer's history. I hope that others have a far better experience of this new Octavia than I did. If so, enjoy it - after spending your hard earned money, you deserve to!

Picked up my new Superb from the dealer today. Absolutely love it!

You can’t do the boot close from dash button on a car this new, they can’t be done post 2016 sadly. The lane assist and traffic jam assist can be done with VCDS or above. OBDEleven can’t code the steering module. Supernova’s are the right wheels as well

DVLA don't even hold data for NI cars so I'd say yes...

Independent inspector sounds like an excellent move to me.

I'm afraid I've joined the growing list of owners rejecting vehicles plagued with the technological problems. (It would be interesting to know how many have been rejected over recent months.......) As was stated in the recent article in the Guardian:"If the manufacturer was aware of these faults, it is wholly unacceptable that it has continued to take cash from consumers without fixing the issue." https://www.theguardian.com/money/2021/may/01/vw-audi-and-skoda-owners-angry-over-fault-in-sos-warning-system The car has so much potential and is class-leading in so many respects. However, I'm afraid I chose not to live with the unreliability of the technology. A poor experience for me as a customer and a poor episode in the manufacturer's history. I hope that others have a far better experience of this new Octavia than I did. If so, enjoy it - after spending your hard earned money, you deserve to!

I'd definitely opt for OBDEleven, over the 5 years I've had the tool it has more than paid back what it was worth. Have programmed 4 different vehicles for more features, retrofitted a newer radio to a caddy, automatic headlights to my Fabia 3 and it was the tool that allowed me to fully replace my tailgate which had rust with a newer 2018 tailgate that had different regplate lights. I'm going to be retrofitting cruise control to the caddy in a couple of weeks and this tool gives me confidence without a doubt, the history feature is especially useful if you need to rollback any changes.

Mine was 55-60 all the time I was running, weight gain during the confinement and stopping running with the club in October saw it rise about 5bpm. I have been following your journey to fitness which was at the same time as my journey in the opposite direction, you have made some very impressive gains. I started with one run last week but instead of sticking to the 5km I wanted to start with I took an Italian renter on a longer one to show him the area, it was 12.7km of which I ran 8.5km and walked the rest, stupid on my part, heart and lungs were OK it was my quadriceps and took 5 days for the aches to subside. If for whatever reason you cannot keep up yor regime you lose the gains very quickly, its happened twice to me through Sepsis and a detached retina, within a month I can lose 25% of my VMA and V02max although RHR remains unchanged, it can take up to 3 months to get back to full fitness but at my age all the measures are declining anyway so I never quite get back what I lose. I have my second vaccination tomorrow and will start training with the club again, this time its going to be a very slow return to fitness as I have more than 10kg to shift.

ak-choo-ally... *pushes up intellectual spectacles* ...research has shown that tinfoil hats can increase the concentration of microwave energy gathered so by wearing on you are helping the mind control signals be even more effective....

Employ an assistant to shrink wrap the car once you're in it. When you reach your destination, alight via sunroof.

So with a bit of consultancy with @langers2k and someone on another forum, I got to the bottom of this. We all agreed it seemed mechanical and it was. I realised even the old module was operating entirely correctly out of the door with the pull cables disconnected. Connecting them, I then noticed with the internal handle pull cable connected the release lever on the module was partly pulled with just the cable connected. Turns out the cable had been pulled and the sheath pulled out of the end fitting and this caused the wire length to shorten and be pulling on the lever even when not being operated. I have tried to squish the sheath back in the lengthen the cable length and it is currently working!! It was confusing the old module wasn't showing the implausible signal error like the new one did! And the old one didn't click locked and unlocked where as the replacement did. But either work now. I'll be selling a new rear door lock or two now! Someone had been in the door trying to fix this probably several times as the big plastic internal access cover plate is missing!

You! not the link.

I'm genuinely puzzled by this one. If you don't go near this forum and you believe the motoring press I could understand it, but folk on this forum must be aware of all the problems and the abysmal response from both Skoda Dealers and Skoda UK, yet some are still queuing up to buy - as witnessed in 'Deliver times?' thread. Of all the threads viewed in parallel it's these two that I cant reconcile. Delivery times? How many have rejected or are in the process of rejecting? I have to assume that many of the people on the former thread have either: 1. Not noticed the latter. 2. Dismissed the issues as trivial. 3. Know of the issues but have faith that Skoda will sort it all out in the end. Myself, I don't think the issues sound trivial and I can't really have faith that a genuine fix immanent. For the future what I am looking for from Skoda is a demonstrable commitment to prototype testing - I know foolishly optimistic.

I and my passengers are Covid-free, but are driving through a virus hotspot, and the windows will remain shut. How should we set the heating/ ventilation/aircon to minimise risk from the viruses outside? Recirculation? Fresh air? Air con on or off? Air Care (which I’ve never understood) on or off? Thanks in advance.

Hi All This event is happening every Sunday now until September - Just gauging the interest if anybody is up for in a meet within a meet if you like. We will choose a point on the east side of Galway and gather there then convoy it to the meet itself. If you are interested then we will put sommit a bit more concrete in place around times date and locations !

It certainly caused confusion when I bought my father in laws civic off him, brought it to the mainland and tried to MOT it... It was on a mainland plate but had been 'exported' and registered in NI so there were no DVLA records for it... the garage thought it was stolen...

Yeah, looks like the rod's knckered at both ends. Febi Bilstein ones aren't particularly expensive on ebay.

When I've finished with them.... not many get sold. I think Heinz bought most of them.

I think one clutch does the odd numbers, one does the evens, so it could well be one of the clutches

Couldn't find the one I started so ebay to the rescue!!

You can see the movement in there. And if they're not genuine and after market, I found that they don't last as long. No harm in changing them again for genuine Skoda one or very high quality after market part as they're not that expensive.

VAGTEC can fit them too, they do them for main dealers and will travel to you I believe. I don't know the price tbh but call I'm sure he'll quote.

Thanks for the codes! I'll be sure to get the exact code that I'm stuck on and its description the next time I contact the dealer. It will be interesting to compare to the ones you've provided.

Today I received car.. HW version is E and FW version is 1803.

I couldnt find any mesh lower grills for a standard mk2, best bet would be to get some and do it yourself on the lower grill. I did it on my matrix a while back with some leftover mesh, not bad for costing nothing. I am considering putting mesh behind the lower grille on my fabia as I had the unfortunate experience of having to remove a bird from behind it. I somehow hit it while driving and it got sucked behind the lower grill, not fun.

Interesting choice of title and posting. What did your last servant die of?

Did you buy an NTSC camera or PAL camera. What you are showing there is a PAL invertion picture which is a problem. The cameras must be NTSC. PAL and NTSC are closely related as a standard but PAL is superior due to a secondary colour phasing check. If an NTSC calibrated system sees a PAL signal, it interprets it as brightness or contrast. The long and short of it is....your reversing camera images will look odd.

@hetty1 If it's of any consolation, the water pump on my 2017 110 Yeti failed at 4 years and 15,000 miles. I felt very "cheesed off" too. Replacement would have cost in excess of £400 if I had not already spent £525 on an extended warranty when I bought the car. Not impressed.

Another undocumented change then!! Mine is like this...

My car finally arrived at the dealership yesterday evening after waiting 4 weeks for a boat to the UK, hopefully they'll have it it ready for me to collect tomorrow 😁

Unless your vehicle has full NBC (or CBRN) protective measures, including oxygen recycling systems, there is no setting that will help you. Accept your fate and drive on through. Based on your profile pic, you should have already had your vaccinations anyway, so there's nothing to worry about. /thread.

That's a great recommendation, and I agree. @Lando98 there are two different versions of the 1.4/16v, a 75bhp one and a 100bhp. Most manual gearbox Fabias in the UK have the 100bhp, all of the automatic ones have the 75bhp. Basically the same engine, some minor hardware differences and different mapping in the ECU. As said, one of the best petrol engines in the mk1.

Thanks @UndertheRadar Its a fair point, chrome & salt don't really mix! I've only got the one set of wheels, but hope to maintain my cleaning regime through the winter months, so I'll take a punt and grab a set. I'm assuming as my car is an ex-fleet car, it still has the original centres on. Its covered just over 4k and 3.5 years old so they've not faired too badly.

If you run the same wheels during the winter months it’s not really going to matter. Genuine centres take a kicking with the salt as well. All my winter rims have similar to your eBay link fitted, and at the price, I just replace every year when I change the wheels over.

I agree that the lane assist is overly aggressive, I have noted that the Ford Hire car I have been given whilst I wait for my MK4 to be fixed is exactly the same. It defaults back to on every time and can do random things so it gets turned off immediately. The only difference is that it is one click on a dedicated button on the end of the indicator stalk. Like someone knew it was crap and it would be turned off each time.

Luckily just over the border. Love it up there! Thanks guys.

patch on the inside part worked...this sealant stuff just doesn't want to clean off properly. was sealing until you apply pressure to the area or lower pressure and push as if riding then slight milky weep each time but did reseal. last effort is a patch on the outside, if this fails it's either throw a tube in or replace the rear tyre with the Forekaster that came on the bike. a quick look last night for tyres...jeez they're now near the price of car tyres i'll try and take a spin out tomorrow around the park at the back and see what happens, at least i can see the house! at the moment i'm out at 1.30 Saturday with the group and maybe Sunday on my own depending on how the legs feel , not over Stile Cop though or FTD/Monkey. 3 or 4 of our group have been down at Birches Valley on the new Blue trail and by all accounts the reports are good...nice flowing gravel with bermed corners, trail builders say it needs to harden up to prevent too many ruts

Thanks. Will give it a shot.

the Milotec one is to go with the RS which has a honeycomb on the lower as well. Don't think you'll find a lower one, if you really desire it, either buy an RS front bumper and use the part, or just fit the RS bumper...........or fab one yourself. example of what you could use below...... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=371513683770&_sacat=0

You can download your map software from here for next time: https://www.gpspower.net/volkswagen-seat-skoda/360982-rns-510-rns-810-skoda-columbus-cy-europa-west-v17-maps-2020-a.html, then burn it onto a dual layer DVD and install OR google for maps tool and use the SD card method to install.

Just wanted to say a big thankyou to you guys. Recently I’ve had a few niggles with this car and every single time I have had an issue the info and guidance found on this site, and the replies from members have saved me both time and money. I have now done three jobs myself which without this forum I would not have even considered attempting myself. 1, DSG thermostat replaced £15 2, internal blower motor £115 3, interior light switch £35 plus I’ve had the egr valve replaced - didn’t try that one myself :0) hopefully I’ll get back to my trouble free motoring now. thanks again, you’re awesome.

Why would a Call Centre / Communications manager with a NVQ in computer / keyboards know, they had to ask the technical department and nobody could be bothered with a wind up.

I'd suggest that the cooker types (are conditioned by where in the country (or further afield)Swimbo grew up). After marriage, we ended up in a mobile environment, where she got used to (more or less) gas hob. Then we moved to an area where we could not have a gas cooker. After a few years of having a gas hob, I persuaded her that an electric oven was a better choice. For her (and possibly a lot of our older better halves) gas is more controllable, but a gas oven needs ventilation and needs to heat up the space more often, whereas an electric oven gets up to temperature and then only needs spurts of heat to keep the temperature constant. These days she has her choice of choice- an electric oven and a gas hob. I'd suggest the path to harmony in the kitchen is to let her decide and then fit it. And I'd put 50 years of marriage without ( many fights) as evidence.

Do not drive through Covid Hotspots, drive around them.

I just repaired my engine stop start button. It had developed the common fault of working less and less often and I know I could have replaced it but I figured I'd have a go at repairing first. 1 T25 screw in the underside of the lower column shroud, then 2 T25 screws in the column only visible when the wheel is turned 90 degrees. With the lower cover off I unplugged the 2 connectors. 1 is the switch and 1 is the light. Using the probes on my meter I popped the bits that helped me push the barrel out of the shroud and set about dismantling it. There are 4 plastic clips holding it together. 1 is visible, 1 is hidden under the sticker and 2 are hidden under the metal clips on either side. With pliers gently pull those metal clips out, then using the extra arms you were born with, get something under each of the 4 clips and separate the barrel. It all comes apart after that and all I did was apply a little iso alcohol to the 4 contact points on the board as well as to the 4 contacts on the silicone bit. Put it all back together and now I can turn my car on and off first time every time. Rather than 7th time sometimes! For the sake of the search engine I'll add the words KESSY engine stop start button. No need to spend any money to have your car start like it should do! I hadn't seen this post before, but there's a photo in it of the barrel disassembled

I have a perfectly good nearly 5 year old Mk3 Octavia, and having had a previously fault laden Polo, I know what it’s like to have a car that is unreliable. It is so frustrating! The mkIV was always going to be my next car, but having read all the issues with them, I’m not prepared to take the risk right now. Having driven both Scala and Kamiq, neither I felt were as well built as my tank like Mk3. Having a DSG to contend with doesn’t help with the experience when your used to manual. I also don’t want a digital cockpit or touchscreen heating controls. So for the time being, my monthly payments are staying in my savings account and no mkIV on the horizon.

Thanks for the input... It turns out it was the cambelt tensioner! VID-20210524-WA0001.mp4

As above you are welcome to try mine (and buy if you like it) but I wouldn't rely on a box for fuel economy. Even a proper map doesn't really improve the mpg. Add a couple of psi to your tyres and make sure you keep up with maintenance to get good mpg. Oh yeah, driving style is a huge benefit too.

Is it the intermittent noise that comes & goes in the video then gets worse & becomes a screeching? If so then its the alternator pulley one way sprag clutch. Don't let the mechanic tear down the timing belt without checking that first, get him to run the engine with the auxiliary belt removed, you pight be able to get the noise to come & go or change frequency by switching on and off heavy electrical loads like the heated screen.

Where to being with this, I recently bought my Mk3 VRS used (but new to me) from a good friend. The car has a pano-roof, which i wasn't massively fussed about and on the basis of my experiences so far I will never buy a car with again. Long story short within a few days of buying the car i found the roof was leaking. The issued appears to have been fixed now by my local VW independent specialist who had to remove the roof, fit a new seal, re-bond the roof to the plastic frame and then refit. As a result of my issues I've done a LOT of research into these roofs the last few weeks so prepare for a long winded response. The roofs themselves appear to be manufactured by Webasto however the VAG appear to have a particularly poor track record in terms of leaks and drainage issues when compared to other marques. Clearing Drainage Tubes The most common issues are the sunroof drains themselves becoming clogged and flooding. The way to test this is to carefully run some water into the sunroof tray (i used a squeezy mineral water bottle) and see if it drains effectively - the drain points are at the front and rear wheel arches. Even if still draining okay i would suggest this should be a yearly job. My front drains were nowhere near as efficient as the rear drains. With the roof open, the drainage points can be found in the four corners of the plastic sunroof tray, however the two rears ones are not readily visible and are hidden by the mechanisms. The two front ones are easily identifiable and are circular holes a few millimetres in diameter. These drain points are bonded to drain tubes - I've seen other people have these bonds fail and leak or become disconnected and they have had to drop the headliner and re-bond the pipes to the roof. The front drainage tubes run down the A-Pillar and exit at the bulkhead in the engine bay. The drain tubes themselves are just push fit into a rubber boot at the bulkhead and again in mu opinion there is the potential for this to work loose and leak. The procedure i used to clear the front drains was firstly to open the bonnet and remove the rubber stripping from the plenum chamber cover - it will just pull off. From there you will see there are several metal clips which secure the plenum cover, again these will pull out and you should be able to lift both corners of the plastic plenum chamber cover. The workshop manual suggests the windscreen wipers need removing, but even with my shovel hands i was able to reach in under the plenum chamber cover and feel towards the base of the A-Pillar where you will feel a rubber nipple. You need to manipulate this and you should feel an amount of gunk work clear from the nipples, this in itself should improve the efficiency of the drainage tubes markedly. To clear the tubes themselves some recommend blowing compressed air from the drain point in the roof tray, however VW seem to advise against this and the workshop manuals refer to using a bowden cable or similar as a drain snake. Personally i wouldn't use anything metal or too rigid as the drain pipes themselves aren't especially heavy duty and i could see the potential to cause damage. I purchased some plastic garden strimmer line for a couple of quid from the DIY shop - 2mm diameter, in reality i could probably have done with using the same stuff but a bit thicker as this was a bit too malleable and not strong enough. As such i doubled it up and taped it at several points to double its thickness and make it a bit stronger. It was then a case of gently feeding it down the two drainage pipes - if you hit any snags its probably a bit of blockage, working the cable back an forth it should push through and i was eventually able to get my cable to appear out of the bulkhead nipple and then basically 'flossed' the drainage tube. I repeated this several times and quite a bit of gunk was loosened. I then repeated this on the other side front drain. Finally i used a large syringe containing hot (but not too hot) water and washing up liquid and injected this directly into the drain point just to try and degrease and clean any final bits out. As discussed the rear drainage tubes cant be easily accessed from the top by my eyes. The workshop manual suggests these exit by the rear wheel arch and that access to clear the drain point nipple can only be gained by removing the rear bumper - which looks a right ball ache. I have seen some suggests that taking off the wheel and arch liner should also get you access. You could also clear the tube from within the car - removing it from the rubber boot where it enters the drainage nipple and exits the car, but this would mean removing a lot of the boot trim. This was all a bit involved for me as my rear drains seemed okay, however i will keep an eye on this. My research suggests that the way to clean these drains is again using your improvised drain snake - however this time from the bottom up, feeding it from the wheel arch nipple up towards the roof where it should emerge. I will stick another post on shortly re: the lubrication of the mechanism and seals