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Lock the car with the button on the key fob and within 5 seconds touch the door sensor, this disables the kessy. After this the car can only be unlocked by pressing the button on the key fob. No need fro tin boxes or faraday pouches. tom

CO2 isn't the problem in urban emissions toxicity. And it's a fallacy to imagine that lowering CO2 emissions from engines automatically reduces the toxic pollutants from them. CO2 = climate change problem NOx, HCs, CO, particulates = urban air quality problem So few people seem to comprehend this.

Me again.... Just to prove I've not been totally bone idle this summer, I have completed an engine bay restoration on my 1969 Mini as well. Although the car was restored "professionally" in 2015, the engine had been simply removed and replaced in the repainted shell, so I have gone over it and replaced the following.. Radiator Waterpump Thermostat Coolant hoses Heater Hoses Fuel Hoses Full Service Painted the block and rocker cover in BMC Mid bronze green New chassis plates And she now looks like this.. Very please with the little thing! Polar opposite of the Fabia, but that's not a bad thing some times? Matt

@JR RS is right. I followed his advice and I received the comprehensive report. Mine was 8 pages but I also downloaded all the manuals - In total 79 files. Probably overkill on my part but as I had paid for a 1hr account, I figured I would download everything I could. See the folder structure attached -

update just installed the new cable. Now i have 14,2V on the battery on idle (battery not fully charged yet). it seems to work fine now, going to try it out nearby the following days. extremely greatful for your help!!

Golf R also has weak clutch, and this part is the reason behind its engine is cut at 380Nm, much lower then DSG engine. Stage 1 for RS is usually above 450Nm (some are measured above 500Nm), so you have to go to Sachs Performance or similar (I don't have experience with other). Take into consider the pedal will be much heavier, and engaging clutch on first and revers will be a bit different, sometimes jerky. This is probably the reason why manuals have lower torque, so they can fit clutch which is soft enough for an average driver. Nevertheless, pros/cons, put the stronger clutch and never look back. Stage1 is pointless with OE clutch in your case.

In AliExpress, the same cable is much cheaper. I have been using it for a year and without problem.

No - they aren't for the use of the roof bars. Those holes are actually used in the factory for one job - and that is carrying the empty bodyshell from one part of the workshop to another whilst the robots build the car up. I know this as I've been over to Mlada Boleslav and seen it with my own eyes!

Polishing the wipers did a good job. I use carplan trade valet wheel cleaner, I dilute it by half because as I said, I wash my car weekly so it never gets too bad. TFR is great stuff but it strips any sort of wax on the car so I stay away from it.

Repainted whole car, stock Laser White(LF9F) replaced by Audi's Ibis White(LY9C) dead door "chrome" repainted to glare black new emblems 32D 853 621 A Ali — 90mm ABS Emblem for Škoda had huge count of reasons -> and the last drop came from my daughter, accident on driving lesson. i had option brake by handbrake, but i wrongly tried to move steering wheel, it were under strongest control

Added Lemforder drop links to the box and, this morning, something large landed..

My new 2017 Superb 206TSI 4x4 fully optioned. previous owner installed Revo stage1. Done some work with the lighting and a debadge. Applied Gyeon Quartz coat.

i've been running the Start-stop memory module in my Superb for more than a year now - its been brilliant. it always remembers, on restart, the last state i left the start-stop in, and i can always hit the start-stop button to reactivate when i know i'll b stopped at the lights for a while. no need to "trick" the car by altering voltages with VCDS/OBDEleven.

My old Octavia MK2 Elegance (2005) was great did 100k in it (1.9PD). Tin worm has eatent it at bottom of doors and sills. Plus many other little issues adding up to a lot of cash to fix. So - I bought a 90k Superb 2 Elegance 170 Estate. Claret with cream Leather interior. In excellent condition. Got a few things to do to bring it up to spec. Full service history and everything works so far. I also have a 2017 Yeti 150 SE L and the ride is a fair bit softer in the Superb. I have a vagcom so made good sense to stick with Skoda. Gonna have a good look round tomorrow and find all the hidden gems.. Dammit forgot to look for brolly! Browsing all the Superb info here.

Both fans will be dual speed I think, and they are usually wired in parallel, so both should do the same thing (low or full speed) at the same time. I'll check wiring diagram tomorrow to be sure of what's what. It may be that the smaller of the two is single speed, telltale sign of that is there will only be two wires coming out of the motor housing rather than three. Coolant temperature or refrigerant pressure can trigger the action, which is why switching on A/C is a convenient check, as the pressure builds fairly quickly in warm ambient temperatures. Talk to you tomorrow.

I strongly advise you go for it! It was relatively cheap and its well integrated with the Automatic AC. It serves me well, windshield never fogs up and snow melts really fast. If you can, go for it!

Depends how wide/long the gap is and the preceding road layout but in worst case scenario road layouts I try and keep the car roughly parallel to the DC and wheels ahead. Then if someone runs up my back I'll hopefully only go straight ahead (a bit if it's a 'tap') and much safer to steer back into the outside lane of the carriageway I'm leaving if it's a real shunt because at least I'm travelling in same direction as the traffic coming from behind. Positioned with any right lock on and getting shunted can have you straight into oncoming fast traffic and a much higher impact speed. Side on and shunted from 'behind' is into the drivers side and to be avoided too. It's the same at traffic lights don't steer until you are ready to move as otherwise getting rear ended will launch you across oncoming traffic.

Just for @Lady Elanore Ant Anstead Master Mechanic. on Quest tonight, 10 -10.30 pm & 10.30 - 11 pm.

Having had a Superb 3 SLE Estate and a Superb 3 SLE Saloon car I can say that both the boots are vast. The only difference is as you have said, the vertical height at the rear of the vehicle. I have only had one occasion since moving from the Estate to the Saloon when I wished I still had the extra height and that was for an exceptional load. If I get another Superb it will be another Saloon and not an Estate. Unless you are going to be using the extra load carrying capacity frequently I would say just go for the Saloon.

The tandem pump supplies fuel and vacuum, hence tandem, because it does two things at once.

Many thanks. Wonder why I couldn't find that thread when I searched. Hey ho. Good info. Think I will go down the Alloygator route when I get my wheels powder coated.

Have you actually done that ? What was the procedure ? Was the dealership happy and what did you pay per kWh ?

Hello Tishout, please see the system info as attached.

Has anyone tried this? Looking at the powerpass public charging map (https://www.skoda-auto.com/emobility/public-charging) not all Porsche dealers show up. The only one I can find that does show is Sheffield where someone in the Enyaq Facebook group posted pictures of him using it.(https://www.facebook.com/groups/3036207156410016?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=4538818049482245) I'd like to know if it really is all Porsche dealerships or just those that have opted in?

That sounds encouraging. Mine goes in tomorrow for the software “fix”. Fingers crossed

Having had the Saloon version, I can confirm the the boot is CAVERNOUS. If you do have the occasional tall item, taking the parcel shelf out gives plenty of space.

@Pagan-Image Yes i've tried all the window switches, none of them are making any buzzes / rattles, i applied pressure on the driver door as well, but couldnt find any rattle/buzz. Even the driver door handle (inside) doesn't have any rattle. Hence i do not know where the noise is coming from.

Hey, I have it but with the Kamiq, which should look around the same. They don't show up on photos well but you can definitely see them. I would argue you can see them more than my friend's Passat B6. You get used to them after a while tho'.

Hello all, I too had the popping noise and then the subsequent SOS error. I took it in last Monday 2nd Aug for some updates and that seems to have done the trick, I did let them know before hand about it. So far (touch wood) its seems to have been fixed, used my car pretty much everyday since no sign of any issues.

Interestingly, the liftback is 5mm longer than the wagon!!

Octavia mk2 hatch vs superb mk2. For the airport run with load cover removed the superb wins as it takes more cases and larger ones also. for carry tools in large boxes and other stuff. The Octavia seems better because the load level is higher it means I can put more stuff in the boot and leave the parcel shelf in meaning nothing is on show. For me security is also just as important even if it’s just your holiday gear if it’s in view someone will try and nab it. Plus also on an estate if you had the load cover off items in the boot could roll forwards to the rear passengers. The secure aspect can be resolved with a dark rear tint of course.

That seems reasonable; I've not tried with a Superb, but an Octavia estate can carry much more "tall stuff" than a hatch, with the seats up.

Nice swap. I also recently went from a 2005 Elegance 1.9 Octavia to a 90k mk2 superb Elegance 170. The only thing I miss from the Octavia is the bottle holder at the bottom of the doors.

No problem, but @RicardoM and I would both rather you clicked the grey icon bottom right on one of our posts and made it go blue.

Might I suggest that you get a smart battery tester and test the cranking strength of the battery. If you go to a VW/Skoda dealership, they will use a VAG6161 unit to test the battery. I suspect your EFM battery is dying.

@zeffania Hello there; glad the maps have updated. Firstly, welcome back to the Octavia fold.... You won't find any firmware updates for the MIB system on the Skoda updateportal - its a sad annoying fact that we've had to do our own legwork on this one. If you send us a screenshot for the info I've requested above, then you can hopefully download the update and get your system up to spec (because Android Auto is grumpy in anything less than 0478 firmware). Re: Battery. The MK3.5's (BTW, love the colour) need their battery topped up regularly to keep the CANBUS network happy. If you aren't doing many miles at the moment, can I recommend the following is purchased: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233409015194 This is a 12V solar panel charger that connects into the ODBC port under your right leg on the driver's side. This will keep the battery nicely charged up when not in use. There are also many mods that can be done to improve your car - I also suggest that you purchase a copy of ODBEleven which will allow you to enable the wonderful world of mod'ing and it will also enable you to read any error logs from the car.

This same problem came up a few months ago, very similar picture, can’t find it using the ‘search’ but I’m sure it was something quite trivial………..

I'll be following you down this route, although it's likely it'll be a Sachs performance clutch at this rate. If I'm going to be spending the money on the labour for the garage to remove subframe, gearbox etc., I'd want peace-of-mind that it'll handle the additional torque and not have to be taken out for a while. Saving up for the work probably next year, as at the moment it is very occasional slip - as you say, in higher gears under heavier acceleration. Not often, but it's always in the back of my mind in 4th doing 50mph and pushing the foot down...

GPS tells it what country you are in and hence what side of the road vehicles drive on.

This may help https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/golf-r-clutch.343945/ I’ve had a revo stage 1 for 40k and not seen any clutch slip at all. The car is on 110k on the same clutch. i don’t think i have a special clutch, I think its more down to the quality of the remap. With revo I was able to specify I wanted max torque further down the rev range and they were able to do this (Vas motion). i know I keep hearing people saying the clutches can’t take a remap but we all have the same clutch. The only two differences are the quality of the remap and the use of our right foot!

@detonatorFIN unfortunately I have no SW update for your unit Others check your PM

If it was manufactured in November 2020, then it isn't a facelift model. The facelift was revealed early this year. This might also explain why the manual (if you're looking at the one for the facelift model with MIB3 and a new steering wheel) doesn't match with what you're actually seeing in your car. Where do you live? I'm wondering how it's taken since June for you to get your vehicle when it was a stock order...

I ordered the thule evo flush bars, in black. I just need to find a nice sleek slim gloss black box now!

Just in on Monday. A straight swap for my race blue mark 3 model. First impressions? I’m pretty impressed & the mark 4 seems more premium than the 3.

You'll be doing your kid a lot more good in the long run if you stop polluting the atmosphere with exhaust emissions just so she can get a nap now. And if she gets so used to only napping whilst the car engine is running, you're potentially storing up trouble for yourself later on.

Today’s wee dander

Given @MICKSVRS has a liftback like mine, I'd say he got the same Eibach Pro-kit springs as the ones I got for mine. 20mm drop all round. DCC shocks, non-Sportline. AWD 280/272 models have a different part number. Likewise wagons have a different part number. Mine is a 220 2.0 TSi. I have 15mm spacers on the front and 10mm spacers on the rear, but I'm also running wider 245/40R19 tyres.

Made the trip down to Morzine. Superb didn’t skip a beat, in fact was going a bit too well and I coped a €90 fine for speeding.

Hi all, Again apologies for the late reply but it's been a bloody turgid affair to get to the point where I had my car returned to me today. Sounds like great news (which it is.) but... So, I submitted the independent report requesting a courtesy car and the Dealership promptly replied - 'We reject its findings and don't agree with it'. They were still of the opinion that the only way the damage could have been caused was by 'user error' despite how clear the report had been - that came directly from the Workshop manager at the dealership. They rejected the reports findings that this fault was present at the 'point of sale' outright. At this point my family were trying to coax me down from the ceiling by offering me various sedating medications and a G&T to calm me down. In all seriousness I was pretty despondent to be honest. Anyway, I tried something I've never done before and got the e mail of the CEO of the particular Dealership I was dealing with and e mailed them directly and explained the situation. To their credit his Executive Assistant phoned me within 5 minutes and was brilliant. She assured me that she would contact the Branch Manager and that they would be in contact with me within the hour. The Branch Manager did indeed contact me within the hour and clearly had been 'briefed' as he was almost too nice. He apologised and said that he was unaware of the issue at his branch and this was the first time he'd been made aware of the situation - that in itself was a pretty big warning sign for me. Although I'm a Paramedic I manage a big team and I NEVER like surprises, so I'd definitely want to know why there was this issue brewing that my team had not briefed me on. Anyway, he then informed me that although the dealership Head mechanic disagreed with the report, as a gesture of goodwill they would complete the repair under warranty, refund the cost of the independent inspection and provide me with a courtesy car. Great news. It took another 4 days to get the courtesy car, I still haven't had the request for my bank details to make the payment for the inspection and when I spoke to the Service manager again (4 days later) he was still saying that the Head mechanic didn't believe the report. Thanks to another forum member he PM'd me with some very useful information which I'll paste below: "HI, Just seen your post about clutch issue with the Kamiq, did you get it sorted in the end? Depending on what gearbox you have fitted and the date the vehicle was made this may help, The Information is from a Skoda tech webinar from September 2020. hope it helps, Vehicle specification  Model: Octavia III, Scala, Karoq, Kamiq, Fabia III  Engine: 1,0 TSI (EA 211) in combination with the manual gearbox MQ200  Complaint/Fault symptom  Clutch slips, smell of burning from the clutch area  After having been removed, the clutch is found to be burnt or degraded/fallen apart Technical background/Cause  Due to anticorrosion protection applied to the flywheel and the clutch, the friction value increase is much more slowly. This may lead to premature clutch failures.  Despite optimizing measures (plate lining of the clutch S308, the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate with temperature stability and decreased rpm in the transport mode), the premature heat overload of the clutch still sporadically occurs.  The clutch failures occur in the range from 10 km to several thousands km depending on how the vehicle is operated.  Measure/Production change  Parts without Anticorit have been fitted to the vehicles since CW 20/2019 (except for Fabia III, where the measure has not been implemented yet). After I sent this, would you believe it the Service manager contacted me and said that the engine mentioned in the above report corresponded to the one I had in my Kamiq and the damage, was, after all, caused by this manufacturers fault - he then asked me where I got the information from. It took every inch of my willpower not to chuffing explode. However, I dug deep, confirmed everything was being repaired and replaced and that it would be ready the next day. So, on Weds 16th June I went to collect the Kamiq from the dealership and brought it home. It drove perfectly. That is until I got to a set of traffic lights and had to stop to suddenly realise that when the engine was in idle there was a profound vibration coming through the steering wheel and the seat. I genuinely thought for a second that I was going nuts. I continue the drive as I'm nearly home, stop the car and ask my wife to get in and start the Kamiq up. Hey presto about a minute later she says WTF is that vibration and judder? Thank you Lord - it wasn't just me. I get straight on the phone to the Service manager who if I'm being completely honest did everything he possibly could (bar calling me nuts) to convince me that it would settle down. I point blank refused to accept that and asked him to read out to me the road test result and quality control report after the fix to the gearbox and clutch before the Kamiq was released back to me. Conveniently, he didn't have access to them. So, he arranged for a courtesy car to be delivered to my home address the next day and he would take away the Kamiq to get it looked at. 2 days later I hadn't heard anything (there's a pattern here....) so I called him and he confirmed that a high pressure pump had failed which was causing the juddering. They'd ordered the part and would have it fixed by today and get the car returned to me - which they did. After all the grief I'd gone though with this dealership they didn't even road test the bloody thing before they returned it to me?! As I keep saying I'm not a mechanic but this has to be a quality control issue surely? Time after time on these forums people talk about shoddy technicians and poor customer service. The car is back and well, it's different. It drives perfectly well, there is no judder but the old car just purred when it was in idle - it's a 1 litre petrol engine after all. Now, it's just that bit noisier and louder on acceleration. Is it something I can send back? No, but it's not the same. I hoping some of you will be able to reassure me that it'll settle down. Well, they still haven't asked for my bank details so they can refund me the cost of the inspection and despite 2 requests they haven't sent me a single copy of a list of the actual works carried out which my lease company are, not unreasonably, wanting. The bloody car didn't even come back with a valet!??!? Yes, a cursory sponge was put on the outside but the inside was filthy. If I was the service manager I would have had it come back looking like it had stepped off of the production line. So, there you have it. I will write back to the CEO and give them my experience. It won't be in the format of a complaint but it will be from the perspective of a very patient and reasonable service user that was treated like crap from day one, took the intervention of the CEO's office to intervene and even then they continued to **** it up. One last piece of advice please - it still stinks of a burnt clutch from the outside. It's fine when I get in the car but from the outside it still smells. Is that normal for a replacement clutch or just a hangover from the original smell when the thing was knackered. Lastly - thank you. Thank you to all of you that have taken the time to post and send me advice and encouragement. It's the internet at its best and I'm very appreciative of you all. Best BC

If you don't get a response from the dealership (or agent representing the seller you entered the financial agreement with) in a 'reasonable' amount of time, write back to them stating what you want, in that further to your previous communication dated ***, 1, An independent evaluation has found and stated in writing that the operation of the clutch system was defective and the fault has been identified with the mechanism outside of the excluded wearing parts listed in the vehicle warranty statement and present since the vehicle was built/prior to your ownership. 2, Under terms of the warranty, you expect the defective parts to be repaired or replaced and all other parts damaged as a consequence of the parts failure to be replaced at no further cost to yourself. 3, You allow them a stated time period to respond to the request with an appropriate plan of action (1 week from the date of the email/letter for example) 3a, (optional) You require a courtesy vehicle whilst yours is Off Road. (If you have one of theirs, it can speed up their decision making process) 4, If they fail to acknowledge the defect was present when the vehicle was built within the time stated or they fail to commit to carry out the repair to meet your reasonable expectations, state that you will make arrangement for the repair to be made elsewhere but you will seek to recover through legal means (Small claims court) ANY out of pocket expenses such as the cost of the repair, vehicle recovery services moving the vehicle to another repairer, time spent dealing with this issue at national minimum hourly wage rates, documented phone calls, costs of reasonable alternative transport arrangements made (bus, taxi, hire car, fuel@45p/mile and time of somebody else moving you about). Make a detailed record of your time and expenses accumilated whilst dealing with this since you presented the vehicle to them on day one of the failure. The more you detail, the more pressure you put on them to sort it out as they can see your costs are escalating. Don't get angry with them, it doesn't help. Be prepared to do what you state in writing to them otherwise they will not fulfil your expectations.