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As promised here's the photo. Delivered this morning by Rebecca from Garland. I hope everyone gets theirs ASAP.

It is now the 19th year yes. What a year though. Did it happen? Also brings to mind next year, 2022 is the twentieth. do we have a giant bash this summer or next summer? I’m thinking bbq, track day, museums, chip shop, promenade, a grand tour, who knows. new thread for sure. thank you to all who make this a great place for yourself and everyone else to enjoy.

Had mine a week. You are going to love it. Merry Xmas.

If the Golf is requiring an update/replacement then surely the Octavia must be in the same boat? That's how I see it!

In case it's any help to anyone in the future, the cause of this problem turned out to be a faulty relay (the 645 one in the engine bay fuse box), which was discombobulating the ECM. Did a Carista scan, searched the fault code in this forum and found that a very helpful user called Bob3 had experienced and sorted the very same problem.

‘ Asked to clarify whether he was saying Hamilton would be penalised for not attending the gala, he said: "Forgiveness is always there. But rules are rules.’ …errr unless it’s all lapped cars overtake and then safety car in…..or we could change the rules to suit the occasion. F1 hypocrisy at its usual level.

Are you going to be using them all year round, including temperatures below 7 degrees Centigrade? If so, you need at least all-season tyres. All-season tyres have the 3PMSF (3 Peak Mountain Snow Flake) symbol which you can see in the photo below. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snow_tire#/media/File:Winter_tires_with_North_American_symbol.jpg Having a 3PMSF symbol means that the tyre has passed tests for good traction in the snow. There aren't that many top brands that make good all-season tyres. This is because a lot of research and development (and money) is needed to produce a tyre that doesn't have any big weaknesses in any conditions. Saying that, no tyre works well on sheet ice unless it's a studded tyre, or perhaps a nordic tyre. A nordic tyre is a special type of winter tyre that is made of rubber that stays flexible at very cold temperatures. You might use this in very cold winter countries such as Norway, Sweden, Finland, etc. You wouldn't use it much further south because once the temperature rises much above about 7 degrees Centigrade the rubber would overheat. Good brands that make good all-season tyres include in alphabetical order: Bridgestone, Continental, Dunlop, Goodyear, Hankook, Michelin, Vredestein. BF Goodrich, Kleber, and Nokian are good winter focused all-season tyres. So although good in winter conditions, their summer performance leaves something to be desired. To some extent, these three makes of all-season tyres are a bit like winter tyres in that their summer performance is not so good. 235/45R18 is not a common size, so there's very limited choice of all-season tyres in this size, and what is available is expensive. For these reasons you might want to consider going up 10mm in width to 245/45R18. The outside diameter of 245/45R18 is about 1.3% bigger than the standard 235/45R18, but up to 1.5% difference is rarely considered a problem. Michelin CrossClimate 2 245/45R18 96Y https://www.camskill.co.uk/m141b0s8826p208551/Michelin_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Michelin_Cross_Climate_2_-_245_45_R18_96Y_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/michelin/crossclimate-2/245/45/R18/Y/96/m?tyre=42160849

The scan tool has turned up some very useful info but do bear in mind especially with cheaper scan tools that they only point you in a general direction, don't take raw error codes as necessarily the exact answer. But it might well be in the correct area in this case or it might be as suggested in other posts, I'd still on return of car check the battery and do (part) top ups with Shell V-Power for the equivalent of two tankfuls. 100% always worth checking the fuel filler cap has been fully tighten and the cap is in good condition and not faulty or damaged - it's also free , quick and easy to do.

ok OBD reader just delivered and it gives me 2 codes as follows : P003A $07e8 and P003A $07e8Pd a quick google says The P003A OBD-II trouble code indicates the Electronic Computer Module (ECM) has detected an issue in the turbocharger or supercharger system, specifically about readings being outside acceptable parameters in regards to the engine's boost. Now looking through old service records in the owner manual folder last June (2020) there was a P334B (Boost Pressure Actuator) fault detected wondering if all this could be connected and that needs revisiting....anyway will be phoning the dealer shortly and Green Flag to recover.....

Thanks all again for replies. Petrol - yes I think the car had been sitting in the dealers for a while before we bought it so maybe old fuel but I topped it up with Shell V Power from a reputable petrol station locally. The car sitting may also I am thinking account for an undercharged battery?? OBD reader arriving today which may or not enlighten me further. EPC light didn't come on when I started it up yesterday but Emissions symbol did and no Auto On Off error message on the screen. Interesting Youtube video whereby a stop start problem was caused by the petrol cap not being 'clicked' enough

I fitted a set of Dover 16s from a mk7 Golf onto mine. I think they quite suit the Superb.

After careful consideration and having saved considerable money on insurance with a different provider who covered the modification, I decided to take advantage of superchips Christmas sale. I opted for one of their guys to come and install it via the ECU itself rather than a DIY job using the OBD port and this was all included in the price. Didn't take him long to do it yesterday and the gains are noticeable yet in a smooth and progressive way rather than a rip your face off short blast of torque. My car is a 1.4 TSI DSG and the gains go from 150bhp to 183bhp and from 254nm to 316nm. Locked in 4th gear at 30mph and it does pick up quickly with the extra torque whereas before you would need 3rd for the same level of initial take off. Once it goes past 4,000 revs, it really does keep on accelerating well as opposed to feeling somewhat strained at the top end before. Under normal acceleration, it seems to cruise up hills much easier whereas before it would have been more eager to change down. Obviously the torque is helpful on that front. Too early to comment on MPG but I am switching to super unleaded and not because I've had the remap. I've been reading up that even on modern cars, this E10 petrol can lead to both poorer performance and less MPG. Time will tell but I'm very pleased with the remap thus far.

Skoda dealer

I knew what you meant 👍👍

I also had this happen you can buy a complete replacement window regulator the whole panel for around £30 and it literally takes like 30 mins to swop out mate.

If the air filter box is the same stupid design with hidden screws underneath then the video will help when getting at plugs and changing the plugs air filter, so much for German engineering design. 😬

From 2:16 till 3:21 the idle was 900 rpm, mine is 1100 rpm for 3:40 minutes. Have you ever made a restart to your ECU unit? Some of us do it just till the motor starts, it's for 2 seconds and of course not till we engage the 1st gears because this would ruin our clutch.

Spigot rings won't be needed if the centre bore is 57.1mm. Fortunately, most cars in the VW group fit rims with this centre bore including all Skodas from the Citigo to the Kodiaq. However, there's other things to consider when using rims from a different car including the number of wheel bolts and the PCD. For example, the Citigo only has 4 wheel bolts so won't fit the Superb which needs five wheel bolts...and the Fabia uses a 5/100 PCD so won't fit bigger 5/112 PCD Skoda cars. PCD means Pitch Circle Diameter or sometimes referred to as BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter). Some larger cars in the VW group such as the latest Audi A6 and the VW Touareg use bigger centre bores. You can check by searching each car on wheel-size.com

I'm using cross climates in that size and they are perfectly respectable in all conditions. Not a performance summer tyre nor a fully fledged winter. Safe in all conditions though and perfect for a daily. If after something more performance related, Goodyear eagle f1 get mentioned a fair bit on here or Michelin pilot sports.

That's right, the wheel fitment is exactly the same, it's just the plastic caps that are different.

I bought some Skoda ones from eBay. The caps from the 18" wheels are 55mm where as these are 65mm.

Hi All There is an attempt at the minute to brainwash people that all DERVs are the cause of the global environment crisis - Now in years to come diesel will no longer be available (so we are led to believe). This whitewash is only an attempt to sell more vehicles and bolster the car industry. Well myself and my wife's cousin who is just as mechanically inquisitive as myself have stumbled on an alternative fuel .... Its a mix of home-heating oil (Kerosene) and compressor lubricating oil Fuchs Renolin AC46 (not unlike baby oil) We mix this on a 60:40 ratio. He works for a large outfit which does a lot of maintenance. They are only too happy to give him the oil they take out of the compressors at service time...! So its free We initially tested on a tired Focus TDDi that had the mechanical fuel injection pump and it ran no issues - His everyday vehicle is a Citroen Xantia HDi and we decided to run her on it. We were led to believe that this would damage the injectors and pumps but that is not the case and she runs sweet. No smoke and passed the emissions test at the NCT 28% cleaner than last year...! We havent put it into anything over Euro 3 yet but I am fairly confident that this will work up to Euro 5 .. Id like to put a tankful in a car with a DPF in to see if it would damage it but nobody is willing to supply a guinea pig ...!! Now comparing the normal B7 and our own fuels side my side they are very similar but getting pulled by the customs might be another story ... They generally just look for marked agri diesel which apparently will knobble the DPF anyway. We will not be bullied out of our DERVs - I have another 20 years to work until I retire and a DERV is my only option as my commute is 33 miles each way and a hybrid or full electric is unsuitable. Home heating oil is below the radar at the minute and as long as its still available we will be okay ?

Hello, My engine code is BWA 034967. Thanks in advance🍺

Has the car been standing for a few hours and not run? Was the reading from the actual battery posts, probes pressed in the soft tops of the battery posts? 12.3v is about 70% so reasonable but it depends how accurate your multimeter is, cheap modern multimeters I've found to be very unreliable and my not so cheap but not expensive multimeter gives very optimistic readings on my car battery. Try turning your headlights on for a minute or two, use a watch or timer, and take another reading to compare.

Correct. If you are in first and ask for 85% torque with your right foot chances are the Haldex ECU will give you some rear axle assistance before the engine can give you what you've asked for. But some steering lock on a wet low grip road, low grip tyres with 25% torque demand and it may well be reacting to that slip. And even with a 50/50 split of torque front / rear torque you may still get some spin on that inside front that the traction control has to try and brake. We are not talking 3 locked differentials here. On the rollers. Gen 5 vs Torsen Quattro

Gen 1, 2 and 3 were reactive. Gen 4 and 5 are pre-emptive and work with the cars stability systems to pre-empt a loss of traction and move torque rearwards before slip occurs. This can be a high torque demand from launch or launch control activated, input from steering angle, yaw angle sensors and engine torque demand. The parameters are even changed if a trailer is attached as long as it's correctly coded. The post from Muddyboots assumes that haldex is either fully engaged or not engaged. This is not the case. For Gen 4 and Gen 5 the ECU can adjust the pressure on the wet clutch plates which allows slip. This adjusts how much torque is sent to the rear axle and also allows speed differential between the front and rear axle which avoids windup. For the reactive part of the system Gen 4 and Gen 5 can send 50% of the torque to the rear wheels within 1/8th of a revolution of slip on the front wheels. Have a look at this A3 the rear is squatting on launch before the front looses traction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbmenMq7jWU

i got a single one from UK, £15 'ish but TBH any of them are most likely to be from same manufacturer this is the one i ordered.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193715575616?epid=8027790465&hash=item2d1a591b40:g:kToAAOSwz2pfjXVH

if the instructions say the engine needs to be off, I would assume there is a good reason for this. Follow the instructions accurately or it probably won't work. Personally with stuff like this where the chance of breaking something is high, I would follow the instructions to the letter. . Bre

I'd rather pay for a recommended alignment specialist to carry out the works and insist on a before and after printout of the geometry. Incorrect alignment can destroy how the car drives as well as ruin tyres and stress components.

Got my unit at last. 1 it has the mic input 2 it is lacking the usb power on the harness. I will try to install it on the we

Basically the same only two terminals vs three and in the "old days" they were used for higher current applications ... but yeah, long time since I've seen that term used.

Hmmm, According to this article, it seems my 1.0 TSI is fitted with GPF GPF in TSI

Our 280 gets mid 20 mpg in town, between 30 and 40 mpg on a longer run. I find the gearing perfectly fine in the 6-speed DSG, it's around 2500 rpm at 70mph, which is the same as the 6th gear in my other car (a hot-hatch)

I'm not sure where its at, might be retired, the last time i saw him was the last GTINI at the Eikon, he was on the PSNI stand with the EVO. Life of Reilly.

interesting review and woukd be good to hear how things pan out... i have a 1.4tsi 150 manual Kodiaq and have been mulling over whether it might benefit from a map...

Happy belated birthday Briskoda I was wondering that too, but maths never was my strong suit.

So that means Look & check the terminals and see if tight. Then pick up phone and call the Dealer that sold you it and see if they are going to look at the car when you arrive with it, or they want to send out their technician or if a Skoda Approved Used Car from a Main Dealer Skoda Assist. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/500110-petrol-octane

I completely agree with you👍

I took our car to a Kwik Fit after hitting a big pothole for tracking check expecting to pay a small amount few months ago, it was out one side, they corrected it and said no charge. Didn’t attempt to sell me anything.

Front https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10-Led-501-Side-Light-White-Bulbs-Car-Error-Free-Canbus-Xenon-W5w-Sidelight-UK/174629442013?var=473832270982&pageci=db9fd295-b655-43bd-bf98-d524a1e23047&redirect=mobile Rear (36mm) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Festoon-White-LED-COB-SMD-Light-Bulbs-Lamps-Interior-C5W-Bulb-12v-31-41mm/185038601127?var=692814964095&pageci=9451d274-dbfb-4242-a482-ceec39d2d29c&redirect=mobile Glove is as Rear, but 31mm. For the boot, this is way brighter https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001883251655.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.74ef4c4dze5Z3Z you do need to file/shave a little plastic off the trim opening to fit. I've used these on a 2012 fine.

Nothing worse than someone with a problem then never getting back with an update, so kudos to you 🍻

Some more pics after installation. What do You think?

You should STILL go back to them. Irrespective of the terms of the 3 month warranty.

That's strange, since there is an overall shutdown of pruduction planned between December 23rd and January 10th. During this time, all workers are to be in paid leave.

Just had confirmation that my Velvet Red vRS will be delivered Thursday 23rd. That's a great Christmas present. There seems to be a few more people saying they are getting their cars, and if you look at Auto Trader there's a lot more 'New' Octavias showing up in showrooms. So hopefully its all improving a bit.

I just received an unsolicited communication from my dealer 🤩 So actually, no new news since this is the same info I had before, but this is the first time they have used the term "confirmed build week" and also interesting to see the timing estimate from build. Fingers crossed. For those interested, a fairly standard 1.5 Tsi SE Estate ordered end Sept 2021.

Hi, welcome. If it's a diesel it might need a good run to clear it out too, you could put more details of the car in your Model details, engine, spec level as that can help if you ask more questions.. It shouldn't be the case here but, if the car battery is low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no low battery warning messages the battery charge could be too low for the computers and can throw up all sorts of strange error codes and warning lights, so keep the battery in a god state of charge. Especially if it's diesel but even with petrol these modern cars don't like lots of only short journeys (the battery alone) and need occasional runs or blow-out runs otherwise they clog up and wear down. Let us know how you get on.

I'm guessing this might be because the album tracks haven't been 'numbered', so are defaulting to playing in alphabetical order. On my USB stick, I have a separate folder for each album, and in each folder I number each track to make sure that songs play in the correct order. So, for example: Folders Beatles - Revolver Beatles - Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band Beatles - Abbey Road Beatles - Abbey Road 01. Come Together 02. Something 03. Maxwell’s Silver Hammer 04. Oh! Darling 05. Octopus’s Garden etc... I use 'Media Monkey' (https://www.mediamonkey.com/) - a free program to title and order my music tracks and folders and to attach album art. Another, similar, free program is 'MP3tag' (https://www.mp3tag.de/en/) So far, I'm finding that all album art is showing correctly as it should, and also that each music album or track always resumes from where it left off every time I start the car.

Thanks very much for all the information, when it comes time to change my tyres this is something I'll definitely be doing. I agree that for a car that's meant to be comfort focused the ride is a little crashy, and unsettled.

First of all: Gentlemen, you are all gold! Even though, I have seen those numbers with genuine Skoda number parts myself, your analysis of the aftermarkets that cover each part helped me to figure out what I'll do. I decided to go with Bilstein, as those seems to have good feedback wherever I read about them. I chose 19-151069 for the rear damper vs 083, thinking that if it's used for the raised height damper version (and for one of the options for the standard height too), those should be good. Covers and bumstops also ordered. One question, should I replace the coil springs too? I don't want to replace the whole car and invest significant amounts in that car, but I don't want to be unreasonable too.