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Final update from me ... local Skoda specialist couldn't book me in until Jan 7th at the earliest, so I was recommended another local, independent VAG specialists around 10 miles away from me. I sent him a text, testing the water so to speak, and he replied with a few suggestions (driving in a straight line for 100 yards, turning the steering wheel on full lock either way and holding it) to see if that would clear the dashboard lights ... which it didn't (think we already knew it wouldn't) .. To my surprise he then offered to call around that night at my home address to check with his scanner. He turned up on time, plugged in his SnapOn scanner and said (as was advised by @nta16and others) that the rear left ABS sensor was not communicating. He then offered to collect my car, and drive it (in limp mode) to his workshop 10 miles away a few days later. Fast forward a few days, and the car was collected as promised. Followed by an update within 90 minutes advising that the ABS Sensor need replacing, along with the wheel bearing (as the magnetic pickup ring ?) was also damaged. He also recommended the rear pads were replaced as they were down to 1mm. I told him to go ahead and do the work, which he did the same day. Car was returned to me that same evening with all light extinguished, limp mode gone (hooray) and a detailed invoice of parts used ... all of which were charged to me at what I would call very reasonable prices (£26 for the ABS Sensor, £20 for the rear pads, and £69 for the wheel bearing) plus 2 hours labour @ £45 per hour. The parts were equal to what I would pay with discount at Euro Car Parts, so I was more than happy. Car now drives like a dream too He also made me aware of a fault code that was present on his SnapOn reader (but interestingly not present on either Carista or the XTool) that he said Skoda/VW were aware of but couldn't provide an explanation for, so not to worry about it. He offered to send me the tech bulletin if I was concerned, but I'm not. Talking to my new found workshop mate, he was a master mechanic for a couple of local Dealerships, but then decided to go it alone a couple of years ago, and is now building up a healthy business based on recommendations alone. I know where his workshop / garage is ... and will be taking my Yeti there again if needed. Oh, and he was also full of praise for the 2ltr Diesel Yeti (110bhp) model saying the only things that really ever go wrong with them are ABS sensors and Squib rings. Fingers crossed he's right Thanks for all the comments and advise lately folks ... really appreciate it !

If you were a Freedom member you would be able to do so by going back and editing your original post. If you really want to, write what you'd like to change it to in a reply below this one, then report your post via the ... in the top right. This will come to the attention of a mod/admin in due course, who would be able to make the change for you. Probably not really worth the trouble to be fair. Consider upgrading your membership as a Christmas present to yourself and Briskoda though.

The business with Mk2-3 is probably the naming back then - as I recall there were Mk2's (? or was it Mk1's?) and the versions were 1, 2 and 3. Sort of equivalent to S, SE, and SEL

As we near the shortest day, I've got to give the little rose I got Sally for her Birthday in March 10/10 for effort as it came into bloom again at the beginning of the week. We'd already pruned it back due to a bit of blackspot, but left the last remaining bud. And sure enough:

Or do the cheapest option… Pop the bonnet first, park up in the garage, disconnect the battery and place the bonnet down without locking it. The battery will hold charge for several months, no problem. It’s better to do this with a fully charged battery but if you run the car until stop start kicks in, that’ll be good enough. Cold weather slows the battery self discharge rate so a double bonus for this time of year. A fully charged top condition battery will last approx 6 to 8 weeks connected before it’s discharged enough for a non start event. Any other battery with dubious history or low mileage will be less, by how much… about the same as a piece of string…

You absolutely can swap them I took the underseat storage from my mk1s seat and put it into my mk2 a while back.

I found the blue broken wire on the connector hidden inside the cover. I removed both sides to make clean cuts on 2 cables. I've joined these now with 2 block connectors and new wiring then insulation tap. The car now starts up far better power and I can see the battery charging correctly without having to rev for a second when first started. The lights stay bright now as well makes a big difference.

I think they will be fine with a clean up and now I've done all the interior dark should look good.

Thanks for that 👍 been trying to sort it

Plenty of ghost cars around here today....

Enjoy the new car. Skoda had them cheap enough for Motability to have them cheap for customers in the UK but they are no big success. Simply it really is not a Crossover / or a small SUV & they are just a hatchback no matter what the Media / Manufacturer call them. Not easy in and easy out enough for many. Skoda are shifting a good few to markets somewhere. Lots of people seem not to realise that raising a seat means some can not see out the top of the windscreen. That includes car designers. It is good that there are all sorts of cars to suit all sorts and sizes of peope and their needs, wants and likes.

Mk2 models used the numbering scheme until the facelift c.2010, besides the Greenline. Mk1 Fabia models before the 2004 facelift used Classic, Comfort, vRS, Elegance. Post-2004 facelift models used Classic, Ambiente, vRS, Elegance. Of course there were special editions too like the Silverline, Blueline, Blackline, Sport etc.

Well I shan't be watching that again, what a crock of americanised s*ite

My advice is definitely go for a trickle charger. There are plenty on Amazon or eBay at very reasonable cost. I suggest trying to find a friend/acquaintance who is nimble with a long arm that can slip in the driver's door and then reach over to pull the bonnet release. There's no need to disconnect the battery. Just connect the clamps to the battery terminals (ensure correct polarity, of course) and gently lower the bonnet down, but not closed.

Carrying those is the job of the AA / RAC that have to get passed the vehicles all sitting stationary. What a shame that they might just be add about 10 miles range.

You could always carry a heavy duty generator😀

Getting back to the original question, my MK3 1.0 Octavia registered in September 2018 unfortunately has a GPF but my sons 1.0 Octavia registered in December 2017 doesn't. Petrol cars registered from around late 2018 will therefore have a GPF. On two occasions the GPF has been problematical. The car asks me to change down a gear when I don't need to. I have managed to clear the problem by following the advice above but what a waste of my time and fuel. Absolute nonsense when something designed to reduce emissions actually increases them when they don't work.

OK, next time i see my nearest gas station to be refueled by a tank i will grab the owner from the collar and ask him to tell the truth, if he says that he is refuelling Spring and not Winter then ''he is done", he will pay the consequences. I will put the blame on him because for mine and @HappySkoda problem with high idling at cold start it's his gasoline fault !

Actually it's because of EU fleet emissions requirements. VW couldn't offer people golf gti's and octavia vrs's if they didn't push for hybrids and dsg's. I'll take a more fun less reliable car instead of a full blown economy box other manufacturers are offering in the EU. VW is pretty much the last stand, excluding the premium manufacturers which can afford more CO2 per fleet.

Keep a 10 liter can of fuel in the boot and do not run about when there are weather warnings with low fuel levels in your tank. If you are having to sit for hours at closed / blocked roads, at snow gates in the likes of Scotland where you are miles from filling stations you will not be alone. Think of those in EV,s that might well have heat in the car for a few hours but not enough range to take the diversions or get to EV charger or ones that are working. Nobody near by either with a handy can of electric.

Title edit seems in order. Glad that you're sorted.

Yes. I still have one in the car. Think it’s an 80gb version, but has run out of space in the last year or so. I use it as I prefer listening to constant music while driving rather than someone talking nonsense if I use the radio.

The transition from working state to dead in a disposable lithium battery (primary cell) is typically sharp and may easily take place entirely while the key is away from the car. In that case, no "battery low" warning is issued. With some battery brands, the above transition may be somewhat more gradual, giving the car system a better chance to detect the approaching battery death.

i set an alarm this morning - if woke up myself before it went off id get the bike out. if the alarm woke me it was a run. spud sr woke up 1 min before the alarm, so i went for a run. 6k, in the freezing cold in 31.54. not brilliant but not terrible. it was strange though, it was a clear sky and heavy frost but, there was a pocket of genuinely warm air along the last 300m of the route by the river. as in it felt like someone had a 2 bar heater on the go no breeze or anything just this weird heat. and its not like it was just the trees retaining heat from yesterday, it never got warm at all yesterday, and the sun is so low these days that bit of the river doesnt get much direct sunlight either. plus, its all tree lined for about 900m, but it was only along one section of it. turned and back up along the same way, and the temp just dropped again. weird..

Finally found a decent place to load some pics

Thanks! It's the view from my Granny's house, very admirable. My Mum's is up around the corner but we're facing 90° the other way, and as such cannot see anything in that direction. We can see the Isle of Arran on a clear Summer's day from the upstairs windows sometimes, however.

you know things are getting bad when there are snow drifts in Suffolk. As a life or death thing, yes you'd leave your car running. But if you didn't have to have the engine idling for a long period of time, I wouldn't. It can wear out parts quicker as the engine is designed to be going through the revs and having load applied to it. Things like the EGR will get clogged and the DPF won't be getting up to temperature and will be struggling to stay clear. More regens and more associated problems Best thing to do if you're in any doubts of getting stuck, is not to travel. If you get stuck, chances are the people who would be the ones to try and come and help won't be getting there any time soon. Last time it was really bad where I live was 2010 / 2011 and the amount of people who had accidents and didn't even have a spare thicker jacket was alarming.

^ That's a nice view to look out onto

The weather can still be best described as Dreich, although the conditions make for somewhat atmospheric photos............

Just got home from changing 18" (Rainsports 2) to 16" wheels with Michelin Crossclimate 2's. IT's SO MUCH BETTER! Granted on a track the 18"s would be better - but on the road - wow! Quieter, much less harsh vibes + tyres way cheaper. I thought the 18s were a little to "twitchy" and they droned like heck on any but the smoothest surfaces. Yep looks like a taxi but I dont care. Recommended!

It may seem a little conterintuitive, but with low annual mileage, servicing should be annual - the reason for this is that most of the miles will have been on short trips, with the engine only getting up to temperature towards the end of the trip.

Thanks guys, I would never have thought that the whole unit would need to be replaced. I will try removing the unit and check the connections first and see if there's a loose connection / damaged wires somewhere. Thanks for the link to the guide on how to remove the light, I did come across this previously but could not find it again. EDIT: I've checked the lamp properly at night and can see that only one bulb is flickering, the rest are fine. Even when I turn the sidelight on the bulbs dim but I can still see flicker. So looks like I'll need to replace the unit.

Straight swap as Annoying Pentium has said. Do you have any pics of the seats out of curiosity?

Hi, About to install a sub into the spare wheel space but noticed there was water in there from when it rained a few days ago so I had to fix it. Here is a video link of me taking off the air flaps under the rear bumper to seal them if anyone is interested it may help 🤷🏿‍♂️ as I know a of people have this problem on their Fabia. Thanks

Yeah that defenitely plays a role in it. Like I say it was probably in my case down to the much wider tyres and extra nose weight. And just a side note FYI the diesel Saabs and V6 turbo got the more robust 6 speed from Aisin Warner. But yes still a torque converter auto. But could lock up the torque converter in any gear. So in manual mode once the car was rolling it would lock up the torque converter so it was great fun to drive with that big lump of torque. I'm starting to think its the 7 speed DSG's eagerness to get the clutch engaged that can catch me out sometimes. My 6 speed DSG was much more forgiving.

5J0919283A appears to be a direct replacement for the 5J0919283 part, judging by this page: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5j0919283a-parking-sensor-control-unit-21223.html Any other direct equivalents would usually appear in that same area of the page.

Yeah I kinda think the dealer support is more to do with that dealer/chain then the manufacturer. Have to say I love my Kamiq, well appart from all the rattles and creaks anyway. But, as with everthing, its personal choice and what you like. I have a Honda Civic years ago and the dealer support was shocking. Just goes to show.

I see 'good old Bernie' has been sticking his oar in (again)! Anyway, it was slightly embarrassing for Max when one of the karting champs, when asked who he looked up to, replied 'Lewis'. ( On another note, how do these sporting bodies (FIA, FiFA FA etc) get away with running monopolies? If it was another type of business (and they are businesses in all but name.) They would be investigated by every government under the sun for anti competitive behaviour.)

I have to say I also find those comments very close to being insulting (whether intentional or not). I find it insulting that you're suggesting n we don't know how to drive and at no time was it suggested that I (or we) drive round everywhere just blindly stabbing the throttle to the floor. I know how to control my vehicle and it's very rare I drive in such a manner that the wheels are spinning... because, unlike you suggest I do have a connection between my brain and my foot. The observation was merely that in my Saab I could just floor it from a standing start and it would just shoot forwards without any drama. The point being that it should in theory with having much more power and torque be much easier to break traction... whereas in actual fact it's far easier in the lower powered (albeit lighter) Skoda. Aad even when I've been careful in the Skoda it has still caught me out a couple of times and broken traction.

I could be completely wrong here. But I think you need to replace the whole unit Rather than a single bulb .other than a main dealer try a breakers / super skoda /Ebay

... which is why I stopped watching F1 for many years - Ferrari having different rules to all other teams and Michael Schumacher not being penalised for major driving misdemeanours just became too much for me to stomach. Now it seems the rules are different for Red Bull and Verstappen - deja vu???

Does anyone else still on the forum miss the good old days when we had now't to argue about other than whether 16" or 17" wheels were better on a Yeti? (Of course really it was never in doubt that 16" wheels was the superior choice). Light touch paper and retire to a safe distance.......

Virtually the same here, ordered 6 weeks later in end July. Arrived at dealer last week and collecting 3 January. Such a random fulfilment process.

Wunderba.

Look for broken wire(s) in the rubber boot between doors and a-pillars. A thin grey/white wire would be the prime suspect.

Even with the VAQ diff, my 245 can easily spin up it's tyres in cold, damp conditions Being aware of grip levels and applying less throttle will help, as will ensuring your tyres are decent quality and suited for the conditions. If you want to know more about have the VAQ compares to a LSD, this might help: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-the-vw-golf-gti-performance-pack-pp-“front-differential-lock”-vaq-works.351185/ As to retrofitting a VAQ, from that link: Is it easy to retro-fit the FDL unit? No! You have to take apart your gearbox case to remove your existing open diff, remove the diff cage & fit the one with the “tube” which the FDL unit locks onto. Then you need to remove the seal on that side of the gearbox case & replace with the one to accept the FDL unit hollow shaft. Then fit the FDL unit & the respective shorter driveshaft on this side. Then you have to wire the unit (5 wires) to the car loom & carry out VCDS coding etc. Considering you are adding more weight & complexity to the car & yet still retain a basic "open" diff in the gearbox case, there is no point. You would be better off spending less time removing the existing "open" diff & fitting a proper LSD like a Quaife or Wavetrac.

Clearly, if you have to travel across the channel that often, then the cost benefits of LPG are of no use. Living on an island where a full tank of LPG is €18, I'm most happy to have found this version in stock here.

Just ordered (the very popular) Race Blue 60 Suite model with a fair few extra bits, not gone mad though. Delivery date of 31/12/21. Seems about right looking at others lead times. My last Octavia took 5 months so I'm cool with that.