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A couple of pics of my first car...

@Lynn67 I'd budget for the bushes, but unless you have asymmetrical tyre wear, leave them until they fail. I've known other similar faults "go away" between one MoT and the next.

LH side all done now as well. All seam sealed, under sealed and cavity waxed to within an inch of its life 🤣

Ypu need to wait a bit as my NAS has been compromised and I need some time to have it fully recovered.

Colin, if you are going to bury a body in the middle of nowhere, don't post a picture with it in shot. Unless it's a clever double bluff

I hax this exact oil leak and discovered the oil was actually passing through the sensor itself I bet if you take the connector off you will find oil in the connectors.

Not one for composition of the day award, the box of beer for a pillow may of had an influence… One from the weekend… good morning sunshine.

Was going through a box of mine that's full of photographs I took with 35mm film c.2014-2017. A lot of nice stuff too. Picked some of the best (IMO) ones to put on here. The quality has suffered a little since they're just cropped photographs from through my phone though. ^ The Jupiter Artland, Edinburgh. Praktica BCA/Pentacon 50mm 1:18 MC. Kodacolor 200 (IIRC). ^ Loch Doon (one for @roottoot), 2016 I think. Praktica BCA/Pentacon 50mm 1:18 MC. AgfaPhoto Vista Plus 200. ^ Dalmellington-Ayr Railway Line (was, and still is disused on this particular stretch), 2017. Olympus Trip AF-S 2. AgfaPhoto Vista Plus 200. ^ Mauchline, 2016. Praktica BCA/Pentacon 135mm. AgfaPhoto Vista Plus 200. ^ Bridge at Dumfries House, Cumnock, 2017. Praktica BCA/Pentacon 50mm 1:18 MC. AgfaPhoto Vista Plus 200. ^ Doonfoot Millennium Bridge, Ayr. Praktica MTL-3, Helios 44-2. Ilford HP5 Plus. ^ Belleisle Greenhouse, Ayr. 2017. Praktica MTL-3, Helios 44-2. Ilford HP5 Plus. Plenty more photos in the box (looking for my ones from Falkirk, 2016 with a cheap Minolta), but that's plenty for now.

Spoke to the manager. Apparently vw group audit the warranty repairs that are carried out. At random they ask for a few cars to be brought back in for the work to be vetted. Mine was requested.... Got a valet and fuel out of it. Thanks guys.

The oil pressure switch is sealed by a soft metal washer. I can't see how that could fail unless the switch is loose. If it's coming from the switch it's more likely to be the switch itself. In case you need a new one, the part number is 036 919 081 D

I'm a big fan of sleeper cars and (don't shoot me) rat rods, but as a PD enthusiast I like my cars to look and sound fairly normal, but perform when necessary

The car passed it's mot with some advisories. I have had the exhaust on the last three, it's only the outer skin on the silencer. He said the oil leak is most likely where the oil pressure sensor is the seal probably just needs replacing. The bushes will need doing before next mot. They're ringing me back later with a price for the bushes and oil leak to be done.

just had an update i have a unconfirmed build week of 34 i dont know whether to laugh or cry. its movement but 5 months away. If you walked into a show room and ordered i recon you'd get it quicker. This means 14 months from order to going into build

Remember forums tend to be visited by two groups - enthusiasts (with high expectations) and owners with problems. Having said that - similar issues are being reported with the Golf 8 (same platform) and the VW ID EVs - so it seems VAG may have rushed vehicles into production without sufficient software testing. Personally, I wouldn't touch an Octavia 4 for a couple of years (when I worked for an automotive consultancy a principal engineer at Ford Research in Dunton Essex advised that if you bought a new model in the first year of production you should expect to finish the development for them!). Caveat emptor...

Try and keep on top of mine with weekly washes, and one/two big details a year. . . The weekly is becoming harder to stick to with a 4 month old to look after.

I understand your concern. I do have side curtain airbags which are located near the top of the B pillars. The rear dash cam cable crosses the top of the B pillar but is only just tucked in between the top of the seat belt trim & the roof lining. I do not feel it compromises the side curtain airbag which is located below the position of the cable cable. I've seen a few rear camera installation videos which have taken routes near A & B pillar airbags & in all cases the pro installers reckon if the bag was to deploy it would push any nearby cable out of the way. Skoda Superb airbag videos The side airbags fire in a downward direction & away from where the cable is located near the top of the roof lining. That said if the cable were to be located directly over the top of a side airbag unit then I believe there would be an issue but that is not the case here. If I had a bit more length on the cable I would have gone down, across & back up the B pillar seat belt trim to the rear door or, down to the floor & then to the rear, but unfortunately these options were not possible for me. I'm happy with the location of the cable as it is.

Looks good in the showroom but will be difficult to clean properly, especially if you are in a hurry.

Well, we’ve got plenty of time 😉

Turn the ignition off, hold the wiper stalk down for 3 seconds, they should move to the vertical position. ignition on and active the wipers to reset afterwards

Was tempted to get a new car when pcp ran out but only wanted more power, so I eventually decided on revo stage three, I’m glad I did because it’s crazy fast and faster than anything else I was looking at. Making this post to show what I’ve done and what I plan to do. Engine revo three, went with carbon Has revo performance pack, hi flow scorpion cat, is38 turbo, new intercooler, stage three remap for engine and dsg software. I didn’t upgrade the exhaust, I want to keep the car as quite as I can. Then I wanted to add some subtle upgrades, as I don’t want it to be obvious this car is fast 😄 maxton design front splitter, was easy to install, just used 10 self tapping screws black grill, had silver before and hated it. Destroyed the old one trying to get it out, but was easy when I gave up trying the save the old one. diffuser, took me way too long to get this in, need a better picture of it. The screws it came with were too big for the middle so had to make some work arounds. Also added extra screws to the sides otherwise it wasn’t a good fit. Adding both of these have made my test runs 0.2 seconds quicker on average, so I think it was worth it. next on my list: I have a rear reflector I’m waiting for. black badges. removing all the Vindis stickers. Just brought some led interior lights retrofit heated seats. add reverse camera. find a way to get satnav into the radio. find a dyno, to see what my power is. slick tyres and light weight alloys for Santa pod next year. Anything else you guys think I should do?

I installed it a week ago so no long journeys yet. But I've tested it on a highway and in town and it feels good (especially on highway ofc). You can have your one arm (or both) relaxing on a wheel while steering happens automatically. Definitely worth it, at least for me. No alarms if your palm is on the wheel. If alarm happens it goes away as soon as you slightly touch the wheel.

Well it's too late for me I just didn't feel safe driving my Octavia.I hope this fix is the panacea for all the issues but I feel Skoda owe all the owners with cars that had issues some sort of compensation for selling them a vehicle that should have never been put on the road with the plethora of faults it had and were very reluctant to take responsibility or ever apologised .

not too bothered there only for the dogs 😂

360 Miles done nearly a full tank :), Shown up a couple of little things 1: how I wasn’t happy with the forge bov, maybe abit old for that now 😂, so standard pipes back on 2: My inner driveshaft gaitor appears to have a small hole causing grease to be thrown about, lucky I had a spare so swapped that today, Other then that all seems well Picked up some back seats so full interior in now,

I think we will get it booked in with Skoda and push for assistance...if and when the diagnosis materialises. Any idea what sort of cost we're looking at for full diagnostics?

Thanks Mick. The MTL3 was my first, it eventually failed so I moved to the later Bayonet mount Prakticas, starting with a lovely BCA before moving to the BMS I have now. I don't really use an SLR anymore because of how bulky the sods are, and trust me, I've even used a Zenit E! I've been shooting with a nice wee compact point and shoot or two, a Minolta AFZ is the most recent for me. I used to have an AF-E (with quartz date printer, so basically a unicorn haha) but it just stopped working all of a sudden and I've never been able to sort it. Only been shooting Black & White the now because I can't get a hold of cheap colour negative anymore. Bought a roll of Kentmere 400 (still to be developed) when I was in Snappy Snaps in Glasgow after nearly passing out when he said it was £21 a roll for colour negative.

Probably is broken then, because normaly it can hold very thin ticket.

I've finally sussed it! If the Kessy key is in my pocket I can wave my arms about all I like through the open window and nothing happens, but if I put it out of range in the porch and do the same thing, the alarm and indicators go crazy. Thanks to one and all for the suggestions.

I am glad Ant was able to help you with this - he was a very good find.

Your understanding is partially correct. Although you will be able to charge your car with a small amount of import from the grid. This limitation is due to some vehicle's onboard charger behave funny when dropped below certain speed, it is enforced by Zappi to ensure good compatibility. Zappi may be able to reduce this on a per-car basis but I don't think they are going to open that can of worms. Most EV chargers will not able to adopt charging speed based on solar production. On a cloudy day you have 1 kW excess, on a sunny day you should have more excess, and Zappi is said to be able to adjust to that. Be aware, kW (power) is different to kWh (energy). If are saying 1.2 kWh back to the grid is over a whole cloudy day, that means you are only really generating ~200 W excess power.

@roottootthanks the engine is 1.6 diesel ,5 gear manual , 152k mileage . YD67YGR only late 17 plate.

Hi Lee, I have the boot liner from Skoda fits in very neatly and is easy to wash if if gets muddy. You can also purchase dividers that sit in the grooves, which is ideal if you just need one section. I would recommend the boot liner from Skoda for the price and peace of mind it covers the whole boot, with a 2” lip around the sides.

Maybe dealers have been asked to check whether all service campaigns and recalls have been applied?

Interesting, mine is booked in for it's first MOT and it will get a "warranty audit" as well as a free valet.

Not too sure on a Mk4 I'm afraid. It could be a long press on the power button though.

Fair enough, I can't think were I saw this plate I think it was in a car park or something. That's most modern cars to me as I sit closer to the road than most.

The VW ID cars have that feature too. Some see it as penny pinching, others (like me) see it as less clutter. I don't find it a problem in my car (ID.4).

I was gutted when i heard some toerag had stolen the bronze otters from the Raider's Road. I mind spending many a summer round Glentrool camping with the family.

These sound actuators are in use across all VAG cars, including the Golf GTi & Golf R, Audi's and Seat. Remember guys, all it takes is the press of a button to turn it off, just like most things. I absolutely detest the Start/Stop, so it's the first thing I press when I start the car. I admit, it's a little annoying having to do this every time, but it's a choice that I make. I also prefer to drive without ASR, so once again, I press the button. Likewise, if you don't like the sound, just press the button. When I'm re-enacting a car chase scene, I turn the sound off too; I much prefer to listen to the flow of the engine through the Induction kit and the sound of the turbo; always puts a smile on my face.

The standard tyre sizes on the Octavia MK3 RS have about the same outside diameter. Outside diameter 225/45R17 634.3mm 225/40R18 637.2mm 225/35R19 640.1mm There is less than 1% difference in the outside diameter between all three sizes.

That picture quite clearly shows that isn't the correct one, purely because of the mouldings, which are wrong.

Washed the car, did some photos afterwards 😄

A funnel type dilator to stretch a good quality CV boot right over the joint is a very time & frustration saving investment.

You need to carefully read the Octavia 4 forum on here - there are issues with software bugs (some possibly safety affecting) and long delivery delays.

Another way to preserve battery is to program your route into the satnav that way the car knows where you're going and will keep battery available for congested parts of the journey.

@noiseyv E-Boost is sports mode. You'll have enabled this either by pushing the sport button by the gear lever or by using the mode button and selecting sport. This mode will use the petrol engine to charge and maintain battery level at 50% To preserve electric, when you switch to hybrid, untick the "auto" box and then you can set the desired battery level to be held by using the up and down arrows on the battery graphic. This was previously known as "battery hold mode"

Look out for spark plugs / coil pack / wiring problems these engines are notoriously bad on oem coil/plugs , modding wise can go as far as you want but putting power down in real terms is really hard and the dq200 is made of chocolate … and for the money like mick said it’s how far you want to go where there is faster options on the market (m140i , a45 amg, r32) all have 4wd

Rob at www.fastlineturbo.co.uk is local to me at Northampton, and Google reviews seemed good, so I had him supply his recommendation of a strengthened IS38(not sure of the technicalities of exactly how its strengthened but he says it should be a lot more reliable and far better equipped to handle the stage 1 map than the factory turbo, of which apparantly the earlier (around 2016?) versions are worse and more prone to failure. Rob at fastline also offered whether I wanted a baffld delete for around £100, which apparantly let's things flow a little easier at the cost of a fraction more noise so I said sure. Apparantly my turbo shat its compressor wheel down into the downpipe, and he said its hard to say just how much damage done to the cat, hard to see down there, and best to replace that downpipe really, so I went for a scorpion downpipe with 100cell8 free flowing cat. Time will tell how long such a cat holds up, apparantly one of the main differences in aftermarket downpipes with cats is how much of the expensive precious metals they coat onto the cat, so cheaper ones might not get through the mot for as many years. Scorpion one is best 'bang for buck' according to vrs Northampton so I went for that (my first option the more expensive bcs had a 5 week lead time also whereas scorpion was in stock). So new stronger turbo and baffle delete (£875), scorpion downpipe (£650), while I was at it found a used ramair turbo inlet elbow which gives a little better airflow on ebay (£56) . I also bought a forge silicone intake pipe off ebay for another £55, but the garage didn't fit it, saying it was crap - too soft and squeezy so likely to collapse under boost. They said the forge one with the hose and turbo elbow all in one is fine if you can get that, but the shorter hose without elbow section is crap. So return that, and maybe I'll get the Apr carbon pipe. Garage labour was £580 + VAT, so I'm around £2300 down. With the improved airflow, the engine light hasn't come on so far, so the stage 1 map is fuelling enough for the moment, although it may well come on and push me to remap again, at which point I may as well throw caution to the wind and do r600 Intake, Wagner intercooler, and the rest of the exhaust system

it got to me... i went... i hill climbed... i got to the first junction on the climb... ignore those pr times, that first km has a data issue... no way i did a 2m 11s km! i wouldnt cycle it in that! the 8m for km3... yeah, thats accurate... i was practically crawling towards the top. it was good push though, think i needed it, hoping it will help blow out my lungs and reset this f'ki g covid cough...

Hello and welcome to Briskoda! Glad you're not one of the "scene, innit" types.