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One has to remember the C rate for batteries. With most batteries, to get faster charge rate, you need bigger battery to charge the larger number of cells in parallel. So although I totally, whole heartedly agree 300+ miles with 60-70kWh is achievable and should be the target. I think it would compromise on low-end charging speed (shorter time at max charge speed) with today's battery knowledge and tech. I don't think battery weight is the main problem with efficiency. The biggest thing that affects EV range during real world use where range is a factor, aka high speed driving, is the aerodynamic drag. Weight becomes a big issue in situations where the speed is constantly changing, but unlike ICE cars, stop/go traffic does not kill EV's efficiency compared to high speed driving. So I think we need uglier cars that is laser focused on reducing drag at high speed.

The best solution for improved m/kWh is lower weight batteries, but I agree lower weight overall and improved aero are big wins too. Tesla seem to get 4-5 m/kWh and have reduced battery size as their efficiency improved. Improved efficiency gives a virtuous circle of smaller and cheaper batteries, less weight again and improved charge times. New battery tech to get energy density up is what is needed. Most car companies and their battery partners are working on this. If 500Wh per Kg became the norm, my ID.4 would be approximately 200Kg lighter I don't see the need for 450 mile ranges, but each to their own. I'd be very happy with 250-300 mile range and 4.5+ m/kWh. The smaller battery this would allow takes less time to charge, so charger congestion becomes less of a thing. I'd seriously consider something like the MG5 next time round as they are getting 250 miles from 62kWh battery and it is an estate. If next gen batteries further improve this, could be a win.

Could it be the sensor in the seat that shows a person is sitting in the seat has failed Joe

No there's no known peculiarities known with my model of car and year of car. I've also been to a tyre place to check the geometry and there are things out of whack but I'm told, it's nothing that would cause the symptoms I have. I've just popped up there this afternoon to have the worst offending alloys put on the back with the current front tyres and the best alloys (slightly buckled) on the front with the old rear tyres to see if that improves the issue and it hasn't. I used to have different brand tyre on the back to the front with varying pressures with no issues. I've tried the spare and that's also buckled 😞 and I don't have anybody to ask if I can swap with their wheels to see if that improves the issue either. So my options are either a garage to look at it AGAIN or to just PX it and have done with it! Thanks to you all for your help and advice, very much appreciated

I posted previously on a black badges thread - I removed the S K O D A from the boot lid and went for front and rear colour matched Skoda badges from SuperSkoda (Kopacek). Looks fantastic - even if I do say so myself....!

If you wire OEM cameras - yes. But this is aftermarket low camera, with just power (no trigger from reverse light) and if you connect power directly you may either get no picture at all or stripes on the picture as voltage on reverse bulb is not constant (as long as this is regular, no LED bulb).

pictures, pictures, pictures: -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/367311-the-superb-iii-picture-thread/page/141/?tab=comments#comment-5570909 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490172-black-badging/

Just look left. Is there someone in the seat. Look at the seat belt, are they wearing it? Job done and cost nothing.

Hello I've joined your Forum to find out more information about a Skoda Superb 2010 2.0 tdi which I have been thinking about buying..this Skoda has 120k miles on clock .Should I not purchase it ..What kind of miles are these good for ..Are these engines timing chains or belts ...And when should they be changed..Any information would be greatly appreciated..

Hello and welcome to Briskoda! This Superb you're looking at will be a Mk2, I suggest stopping by the Mk2 Superb section and asking them for tips and advice when buying a Superb. Enjoy the site.

A couple of shots from Brands Hatch today, apologies for the grunge look.

They do fail over time. If you're minded to look into it yourself: Sometimes they just need a clean (particularly if it's in a rear drum brake), or a bit of contact cleaner in the plug. Likewise, the cable that goes down to the sensor can get damaged, particularly on the fronts. The sensors themselves aren't terrible to change, just give them a spray up the night before and use a decent hex bit when you take it out, as rounding them off isn't fun. if you're fitting a new one, use a decent brand.

This is the chart I have, which by my reading says to do the DSG at 4 years even if it hasn't reach 40k?

Mine was bought as an ex-demo, so substantially below the £42k list price it would have cost when new. That list price being above £40k means I have the pleasure of paying £480 this year and it looks like £510 next year and a similar ridiculous amount until its 6 years old . Oh how I laughed....! I was well aware of this and in fact the first payment was included in the purchase price of the car. My alternative choice of car was an Octavia vRS iV (well below the £40k extortion threshold) but I was concerned about the Octavia's software issues and so stuck to Plan A and went for the 'older generation' Superb iV - with no regrets. Further justification (if needed!) was the insurance for the Superb was £100/year cheaper than the Octavia and both were cheaper than I was paying for the long range/short range Yeti/Citigo combo I had before. You're only I was only young once...

Common problem across the VAG range I had exactly the same set of warning lights/messages on my Touareg last year, replaced the rear left ABS sensor £90 from VW

Which will come as no surprise to people who've towed caravans.

Christmas tree lights for me! NSR ABS Sensor failure was replaced under my 5 year warranty. The Amundsen 2 unit was also replaced under same warranty, following separate issues. However, the sunroof has never leaked, although the car has lived outdoors uncovered, since April 2016.

Joe, You could well be correct. However, since I last replied earlier today my wife sat in the rear and shifted sides while the engine was running and no light came on in the display either time. We went out for a run and this time my wife sat in the front passenger seat and didnt use the belt and again no light came on. When I drove at approx 30 mph and took my belt off while driving I got the light come up immediately and there was also a "bong". Nothing at all happened when my wife took her seatbelt off while on the same run. Both light and audible warning went off when I put my belt back on. So I do agree with you but sensors must have failed in 3 separate seats judging by what happened today. The sensor is clearly fine in my seat so the most used seat works but not those lesser used seats; it all seems very strange. When I originally posted on this I said that I thought VCDS mighr be involved. Quite by chance I went into a post of April 12th last year by J Grindel "The definitive VCD/.OBD11/Carista List for the Fabia 111". That contained among many other items a reference to seat belt warning lights. The author went to great pains to state that it was highly inadvisable to change anything relating to seat belts on obvious safety grounds but even so it proves that these warning lights can be changed. They shouldnt be but they can be. As 3 of mine have failed it seems a definite possibility that someone did change them. did delete them through VCDS. Either the previous owner if they had access to VCDS or , maybe, a mechanic at the request of the owner. I suppose its just possible they could have been deleted accidentally but I can buy that for 1 or even 2 but for 3?? I certainly havent changed anything, I dont even know how to, but I increasingly think I bought the car in January 2020 with 3 warning lights disabled. I cant think why anyone would want to tamper with such a safety feature but the more I think about it I think someone did. Thanks.

Hands up - confusing DSG with Haldex!

*glances at my VR gaming setup nervously* So when can I buy a suit? Anyway, I'm always the early adopter for tech related stuff, EV happens to be the most expensive item as it is a whole car. I would never be interested in cars, they are just things moving me from A to B.

Agreed; these issues are often wires breaking inside the insulation, and you need to continuity test them to diagnose this.

Absolutely drag is an issue and not just Aero, but also friction from tyres etc. Sort both and you make a big step on the motorways, which as you say are the EV weak point not cities/traffic as for ICE.

Fitted the rear arch liners off the gti today. started with a filthy arch Ample spraying with degreaser and a jet wash got them looking like this. then lined up the liner to drill the holes as mine didn’t have them being an early one. Was going to fit the inserts but found the screws hold in really strong on there own. Treated the drilled holes with hammerite and then waxoil over the lot. Only had some small spots where filler neck pipe bolts to body, around the neck was really good. I gave it a good going over with hammerite then some waxoil on that too. Then all fitted back on

Link to the Skoda Owner's Manuals where you can enter your VIN (or look for appropriate month and year of your car) and download the Owner's Manual in PDF form. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models The one I looked at said Front seat belt warning.

This is from the Driver's Handbook (called Operating Instructions) of my wife's 2015 Fabia.

I changed my haldex oil at 16k and nearly 2yrs old. I will be doing my DSG this year at short of 3yrs old, with around 21k on it. I have a habit though of moving service items up my own list depending on how important I believe some preventative maintenance will preserve the part in question. From memory, I believe the 381 box is 80,000 miles rather than the 40,000 recommended for yours, which seems to cause some confusion at times. The plugs in my 2.0tsi (272) had a silly service interval, but I’m not in front of the service system, so can’t look it up. Think it was either 60k or 80k. I do however remember making a mental note in my little overkill brain to change them every 4yrs.

It will be a DQ250 with a 40,000 mile interval, there is no timescale on this. a service on this involves a filter, copper washer and an oil change. that is everything that’s needed to know. and last thing; main dealers are subsidised to make the price near enough impossible for independents to compete with so it’s normally worth a dealer doing it for £200 and change

I successfully removed it. Fortunately or unfortunately, the bag stayed completely sealed. Though I'm sure that the way I removed it would have spilled everything left into the tank if it had split open

Engine was 49,000. Not really that sure what caused it but there are lots of cars with similar mods as mine on the same engine not running into issues. But not sure if something else caused the problem making it likely to happen again. Waiting on quotes for engine replace at the moment, will keep EA888G3 in mind. Thank you

Very sorry to hear of this. What mileage has the engine covered? I've heard the EA888 G3 should be good up to 200k with regular oil changes etc Do you think the Stage 3 had anything to do with it, extra pressure on the engine?

If you unplug the 28 way connector at the driver's side A-pillar, and stick a continuity tester between pins 4 (brown/yellow wire) and pin 16 (brown wire) of the door loom connector, with door open you should see short-circuit between these, trace both wires in towards their destinations within the door if you don't see this. The brown/yellow wire should go to both pin 8 of the 8 way connector at the lock module, and pin 2 of the 16-way connector at the window motor module. The brown wire should go to both pin 7 at the lock module and pin 7 of the 16-way at the window motor. Close scrutiny of the a-pillar wiring with knowledge of wire colours and origins within the 28-way will probably suffice, at a guess.

Open door, stick keys in ignition (handy place to keep them..) go around car to fold the mirror back out, come back to the driver's side...'CLICK' it relocks after 30 seconds or so if it doesn't detect a door having opened. I remedy this now by not letting go of the key and or opening the passenger side door, which tells the car it's open luckily I was close to home and have a spare

Sorry, I understand there is no arguing over taste, but I like my car to look standard, just like James May. 😄 I think now this Superb looks worse than before. 😕 https://youtu.be/Tuh2kBy897c

Thanks. I guess what I'm trying to establish is what is considered 'proper' servicing of the DSG. I could frankly do without the cost at the moment, but would much rather do my preventative maintenance properly. My trust in the dealer network is near zero unfortunately.

I don’t get it, car supposedly made and still you don’t have it? This is just plain crazy. And I hope this kind of behavior truly backlashes at Skoda, this is no way to treat a customer…

What I am saying is that the warning light does NOT come on when my wife is sitting in the passenger seat and accidentally forgets to put her seatbelt on while the engine is running. I have accidentally done the same while the engine is running and my light DOES come on in those circumstances. The specification for my car says it has warning lights for both front and rear passengers when their seatbelts are not deployed. I dont know yet whether they work for any rear passengers I will ask my wife to sit in the back without putting her seatbelt on on with the engine running while I am in the drivers seat and see if the rear warning lights come on or not. Thanks for your responses.

A lot simpler to just input vehicle, wheel and tyre details into 'Will they fit.com' (other websites are available) - you will get clearace details from that.

Good morning Automass, a full charge, then load test on battery will confirm condition of battery in question - but this requires access to charger and test instrument. Replacement battery will require 'coding' to vehicle, where, at least, the battery serial number needs to be changed to tell the BCM that a new battery has been fitted. If the type of battery (EFB/AGM) is also being changed, this must be coded too. Ask workshop supplying new battery if they are equipped to do this coding, otherwise you will need to contact someone who can. I believe there is a register of forum members who have the necessary equipment for coding.

Yes, it's stock.

This actually brought smile to my face. I know how frustrated I was when it didn't work and it should. Happy to help!

A few from my camera (Attenborough nature reserve)

I think one of the ways to do that is to try and change it to display a MPH display with something like Carista but not going through all the steps necessary. I cannot see a dealer going into the menu's to change the display on the Maxidot while doing a PDI.

It’s not a myth! The cars do exist! Arrived this morning 😍

Good to meet you too mate and glad all is sorted. Always happy to help.

@Yetianimal - were you able to check if my previous theory was correct? Mostly to help anyone else in a similar situation but also as I'm genuinely curious. I've added my post below for reference:

@shyVRS245 posted that getting on for 2 years ago. What BMW and the rest need to do is get the EV's lighter and on the roads and really forget the performance / acceleration and top speed of the ones that are imported to the UK and that are never going across to Continental Europe. The UK Government could charge a special extra high VED on performance cars / EV's that is over and above those based on RRP so not just Duty / VAT but a charge on the Manufacturers / Importers. Have them not only having to meet the low / Average C02 g/km from WLTP / RDE2 kidology but have them required to have efficient EV's that are not requiring lots of electricity to not even go that far, or needing bigger and heavier batteries to move about cars that are cheap for business users and are just big and expensive and chosen as a status symbol and not what is required for the actual job the 'employee' is doing.

Looks like I'll be keeping an eye out for you then if you're in Sheff! There's a fair few appeared round us (south west Sheff) the last few months...

Well after owning a Volvo xc70 d5 manual for 13 and a half years it was decided to let this ultra reliable 15 year old comfy arm chair go to pastures new. After test driving Volvo suv's and estates then the Superb it was a very easy decision, so here we go: Another battle ship grey sport line plus 190 tdscr 4x4 dsg estate (combi). Ex Skoda uk car with 2,900 miles. Quite a lot of extras , panoramic roof, digital instrument panel,spare wheel, flappy paddles not sure of what else exactly, didnt buy it for those,rather the way it drove not to mention the space it has. This is our forth Skoda, Felicia, Octavia,Fabia vrs and now this. Hope its as reliable as the old Lovejoy machine. Martin

2020 Superb Combi Sportline, 1.5 TSI ACT owner checking in!