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I took delivery this week, looks nice in the sun 🌞 Loving the car 👌

Well, I dropped the VRS TSi down to the dealer for a small job and I came out to find a cover fitted. I had none from new. I tried to pull it up to see part numbers but it's all sponge. There's no hard shell on top to grab. As it's sponge, I tried to pull but it just bent. I chickened out when pulling it.... As an aside, I've been told that it's months of back order for the fabric panel that clips onto the underside of the bonnet.

Not really getting why one would want a semi-auto box to act like a manual but in any event, when I was driving manuals - and I’d estimate this to be circa 1,000 different units during my 23 years in car rental and my S1 and 2 Superbs were both manuals - it’d never occur to me to change down from 2nd to 1st to engine brake. When I learnt to drive 40 odd years ago, I was taught to go into 1st once the car was at a standstill, as basically it was only used to move the car off from being stationary. Still, each to their own I guess…..

Thanks dude! You're only about 15 mins from me then in Halesowen! The inside of the lip (facing the inside of the car) is fine actually. Which is welcome news! I did have a quick dig there, but it's all good. All the steel is back to shiny and I'll put a touch of rust converter on the odd pitted bit, which there isn't much of. Be time for a dab of filler, seam sealer, stonechip and paint soon. Be nice to see the sill in primer at least.

Take a seat, this is a long one! In February 2020 we had a Scirocco come in with the CAVD version, it was smoking and misfiring so I gave it to one of my lads to do a compression test which showed two cylinders down so he dropped the sump, chain cover and chain system off and pulled the head, when the cam carrier was off we found one of the fingers out of position and it had mangled the inlet cam and the carrier, it was clear it had been apart before. He flipped it over and filled the chambers with brake cleaner and all the exhaust valves leaked so he stripped it and took it to the engineers for exhaust guides, vales, skim and pressure test. I noticed the bores were so shiny you could do your makeup in them so whilst the head was away we got permission to pull them and hone the bores plus fit new rings and shells but when we put the pistons on the bench our mobile visiting engineer noticed the ring land of two had gone, and I mean gone, no trace of the missing metal! So, I ordered a set of Nural pistons, KS bearings, Elring gaskets, head and rod bolts, Febi lifters, fingers, oil cooler, FAI timing chain kit, oil pump and inlet cam plus second hand cam carrier (I know, I know) and he built the engine back up. Plugs out primed and then started, it sounded like a skeleton masturbating in a biscuit tin and a quick check showed barely 2 Bar oil pressure when revved, sod all at idle. Yes it had a new VVT hub, solenoid and oil tube as well! The only thing we could think of was the oil jets as we had removed them for honing and reused them, sump off, new jets (difficult to do with the crank in the way and ran it up... no difference, so we dropped the sump AGAIN and decided the KS bearings felt sloppy so we fitted Glyco, built it up, no difference...FFS! We put the original pump on, again, no difference. Then the world went into meltdown and everyone except me and my business partner went on a three month holiday on full pay as we topped it up out of our own pockets. As there wasn't much work in (thank God for our eBay shops) I pulled the whole engine out and gutted it on the bench, I found the block was badly warped so our engineers decked and hot tanked it, then I meticulously inspected it, core plugs out, and smoke tested for leaks. I built it back up with a genuine new oil pump, Glyco bearings, the new jets, new bolts, the new pistons, engineer checked and polished crank which I Plastigauge checked the clearances on and brand new FULL genuine head with new lifters and fingers again plus a new genuine cam carrier with the pervious cam setup and basically built it as I always do, no compromises except I didn't paint the block as normal... even a new Febi rear crank oil seal; literally the only original parts of the base unit were the cam chain cover, bare block, crank and rods but all meticulously cleaned and checked. I fitted and primed it and when I started it it sounded awful and STILL had no oil pressure, I was baffled, never experienced anything like it in 42 year of building VAG engines. I just gave up, ordered a new base unit from TPS and ****ed it off, I calculated that cockup cost us £25k and just at the worst possible time. What REALLY hurt is to get the exchange the engine had to go back but we did put the original head and cam carrier on plus the old oil pump. One interesting point with the new engine was it cam with a brand new block and recon head but also a new timing chain cover and this had been a suspect during build but I could not see a fault.

I've had my 2013 petrol vrs with the DQ250 for 8 years now, it's got 155k miles on it, and does occasionally do the little jump/shunt thing since I first got it. It only ever happens if I'm in a bit of a hurry, and don't let it get into gear properly first before setting off. It was serviced at around 40k, and at 90k, but haven't had chance to book it in again yet. Never had any issues with it, just treated it carefully, even with the engine stage 1 revo mapped at 85k.

I finally collected it from my dealer Car was ordered on 25th Jun 2022, manufactured on 7th December 2022 and eventually delivered to the stealer on 23rd Jan 2023. Thankfully I was able to delay collection to 2nd March 2023.

Yes, that more or less what I was saying if you go straight from foot on brake to pressing accelerator that will emphasise any delay in taking up drive by clutches. A pause, even half a second to a second BEFORE pressing accelerator helps prevent this. If you're on a hill and don't have hill hold. The handbrake being applied whilst you take foot off brake helps.

I changed OEM EFB bty to AGM from Tayna. 096 Enduroline stop/start battery - £121.33. Coded with OBDeleven as changed from EFB to AGM and 68 to 70ah. Took longer changing battery than coding it. That was Dec last year and had no problems at all.

This seems to be your wheel, 657 601 025 B Style is called "Alcaris" 6Jx16 ET38 If you go for 17" 6.5Jx17 ET40 If you go for 18" 7Jx18 ET39 These are the ideal size/offset dimensions, you can stray a little out, I am sure someone will check your choices for what you find.

SIzing information is literally cast into the rims, probably the inside.

Welcome to the forum. Loving the username, @Peeliewally.

@Carlstonmight be along. Scala are 100 x 5 though. Same as Fabia & Kamiq.

Hello Iggy, I'm pretty sure your wheel bolt PCD will be 5 x 112 x 17mm. If your wheels are standard, ET details are moulded into the inside of the rim. Try (Google) a website called 'Will They Fit' a very useful source of data for all things wheel related. PS. 'ET' is the distance the rim projects from the centreline - giving an indication of clearances to suspension or wing. CORRECTION - I just checked - Wheel bolt PCD is 5 x 100.

OP has 1.4TDI ?

100% what Warrior says. Unless the 2.0 TSi does not have that system, in whiuch case ignore me!

I refuse to rebuild them after the misery the last one caused me.

To follow up on this so far, the error was associated with only one cylinder and the chain tensioner ranges were within spec so we followed the suggested fault finding and tried changing the solenoid 06E103697AE. So far so good. After 1 week the error has not returned and the engine has not destroyed itself. 👍🏽🤞🏽

I did mine, used a wheel from a wrecked Kodiaq Sportline and just re used the original airbag. Works perfectly! There is a 1cm gap at the back/top of the wheel where the airbag cover doesn’t match up but you can’t see it. Except when you look down from the top which is never.

Welcome to the forum. ^^^^^ 2nd this. Depending on engine fitted, very likely to be the sleeve on the water pump staying closed for too long.

Good for another 10 years and another 100K miles so long as you keep inspecting it. It looks remarkably clean and schmoo free in there, take care to locate the cover correctly and close all the over centre clips and it should remain that way. By coincidence I checked mine this week, similar condition, original belt, 120K miles.

Hello! Well I'm really not any kind of expert, but starting from basics, I assume your fluid levels are correct? (Oil & coolant.) AFAIK, there's a system that closes off the coolant from circulating through the radiator while the engine warms up, to help the engine warm up. (Used to be a simple thermostat, now they're fancier, AFAIK.) This means that on start-up, there's not much coolant circulating around the engine. On the other hand, the oil has no such circulation inhibition, and so the full 4-5L of oil has to warm up to get up to temperature. The coolant cools, and the oil lubricates. The oil needs to be within a specific temperature range to lubricate properly. (Something like 80degC through 120degC, with nominal a little under 100degC.) The coolant helps the engine stay within the temperature range it needs to operate within. From the symptoms you describe, from cold, the coolant is shut off from the radiator as it should be. The coolant warms up pretty quickly, and the larger volume of oil warms up more slowly. What I suspect is happening, is the system that allows the coolant to flow through the radiator to cool it down, is not working correctly. So as the engine warms up and the oil warms with it, the coolant isn't getting the benefit of the radiator to cool it down when it should do, and the coolant gets unusually hot and the oil temp continues to rise also. The fact that it subsequently sorts itself out makes me think the (or one of the) temperature sensors that enables the full coolant system is out of calibration, and requires a higher temperature than it should to kick into action. As a stop-gap test, the next time you drive your car, as the temp gets too high, put the heater on max heat and max fans and see if that drops the temperature. I'm guessing it will, and I'm also guessing that will prevent the faulty sensor from enabling the full cooling system, as it won't hit its out of range temp. Which would back up my theory of the out of range temperature sensor. Good luck! Let us know how you get on. 🤞

I'm shocked none of you have a Lego Yeti.

I've realised that there's an option to add more photos on subsequent posts, so here are the rest:

Well, i guess you can't please everyone. I don't mind the gear selector, nor do i dislike the ACC, infotaiment or travel assist 🤷‍♂️

Just fitted this stainless strip and have to say am very pleased with it. Fit and finish are faultless and although I have a fold out flap on my boot-liner this will provide an extra level of protection from our Greyhound's unfathomably long and scratchy claws! 32 quid from VF Autozone via ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334674046470

Is there any practical way to change the DSG to be pull to go up the gears and push to go down the gears in manual mode? Feels way more intuitive to pull the lever when accelerating.

Not that I know of, but when I built my JZR (it has a sequential gearchange), it was just a case of positioning the gear lever pivot point above or below the pushrod. But that is purely a mechanical lever setup, worlds away from the DSG, I would imagine. FWIW, I prefer the opposite to you, as I think it’s more logical to pull back when decelerating…

Many garages have a special bin of worn or damaged parts to be produced when their bluff is called, they are also produced when a vehicle is stripped down for a job to inflate the bill saying "when we dismantled it we found this, you will need a new one.............." The only way to be sure is to do your own work or UV mark the parts but by then you would be looking at them anyway. I used a friends ramp to replace the clutch on my DOHC Sierra, it always had a rattle unless you rode the clutch, I thought release bearing but on stripdown we saw that the input shaft alloy spigot that the bearing slid on was worn, I bought a new one & it simply screwed onto the front face of the box with an O ring seal. On putting the old one in my pals scrap bin for alloy parts (to be weighed in when full) he said absolutely not, give that to me, whenever I have a clutch to do with that gearbox presenting that part to the customer that will give me an extra £95 every time.

Sorry, I wasn't clear, that was my point that IIRC it's not silicone, I struggle to read anything so safety sheets are beyond me I was just going on my wobbly memory. People say about silicone spray on paintwork but I can't remember having any issues on a car that was resprayed but perhaps if the silicone spray is fresh to when the paintwork is being done, I don't know, just nice to has one can of a good penetrating/ releasing fluid and general lubricant than half a dozen taking up space and running out halfway through a job as Sod's Law always applies. I've not tried GT85 on rubber seals just because it's a spray and our cars are always outside, no garage, and even spraying on to a cloth has some spray going elsewhere, plus sprays like this are too thin and fiddly and add too much excess farting about to whatever farting about is being done on the car. At the risk of magicking up my troll, for rubber door and other seals I apply AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel or silicone oil to a 35mm cube of old clean sponge and the on to the seal. Having put that I no longer fart about cleaning and maintaining the Fabia anywhere near as much as I used to fart about with cars in the past, not that I ever done it for the 'joy' (?!!?) of such stuck, good luck to those that enough such things but it wasn't really for me other than necessity.

Gearboxes have changed in the last 40 years and can handle a change down before stationary. But I do also agree that I would never consider making that change if the engine was doing 2k revs. If you are not getting the required engine braking from that then you should be on the brakes, going slower to start with or not loaded so heavy.

Collection of parts is stacking up!

I bought and fitted mine once I got the car. I got them from ebay I believe and easy to fit.

Me too and have had no need to change that mindset since 1980 ( when I passed my test ). I'd only maybe consider it if I was driving on snow or ice.

Thanks for your reply. It just seems they've purposely not done the recall in december to me. I'll have to be honest I wouldn't want to pay for any of it. Two months out of warranty & the faulty part is related to a known fault on many cars not just the Scala or Skoda brand. I could understand if they'd have said the turbo had gone or the battery is faulty but to say the recalled part is faulty just doesn't sit right. The invoice from december doesn't say anything about the recall. Why lie to me and say the technician is doing it, then say it's done? That's why they haven't put it in writing. No proof from my side then. Re the evap, yes I have overfilled. 🤚Hold my hands up to that one. The guy said this needs replacing because it's probably filled up with rubbish from the fuel & is clogged up. I did search the fault when it came up on the dash, I have a cheap reader & a search on here revealed over filling. I lost my faith in dealers a long time ago when I bought my first new car. Backwards & forwards with issues, being fobbed off, lied to. Do you think the ombudsman would be worth a try if they reject my complaint?

@BRSEngineer I follow your delivery news with close interest as see from the excel order listing that your order mirrors closely my order. Your latest unconfirmed build week 13 is late March/early April is it not? Maybe there is hope yet for my order!!! Your order placed mid February 2022: 1.4TSI PHEV SEL Estate with some extras, initially due August 2022 My order placed mid January 2022: 1.4TSI PHEV SEL Estate no extras bar different wheels, initially due August 2022 Link to spread sheet if others unaware of it: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit#gid=0

Well I suppose that's it now.

I do. Makes it easier to change a wheel if I get a puncture.

Got my turbo blown on Superb 3 2016 2.0TSI 280 HP with cca. 128.000km (cca. 80.000 miles). 😒 What is interesting there was only small "bumb" felt, cruise control at 130 kmh (cca. 80 mph) did not disengage and no warning lights came on. Only thick smoke was visible at from the rear. I noticed problem too late and parts of turbo got sucked into engine. Result was destroyed turbo and engine. Before failure turbo developed only slight whistling noise. I notice this now with new engine and new turbo that makes only "sssssss" sound without any whistling... Video of turbo failure on Superb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdS_I8cOH3c

Agree it’s geared appropriately but it’s also just another gear to use. As I said I’m not redlining it each time I change down.

Tech for tech sake.

Have you played around with the dpi settings yet? After playing around with them for way too long, I settled on 136, looks a lot better I think...

Got one from Amazon for £2.75 thanks

No correlation whatsoever except imaginary.

Both engines that you are comparing are Pumpe Duse PD, not common rail CR. The main difference is that the 1.9TDI 105PS is 8v SOHC and the 2.0TDI 140PS BKD is 16v DOHC. So the injection systems should be similar, but the 2.0TDI is 16v so should burn the fuel more efficiently and therefore be more economical. However, with an old engine it will probably depend more on how close to new condition the engine is still running Driving style will have the biggest effect on economy out of either engine. I could probably get close to 80mpg in the summer out of either engine on a gentle run, ie. not going above 50mph and keeping well away from the car in front to avoid sudden and/or repetitive braking, etc. I drive so gently and brake so little, that I get over 100,000 miles out of my brake pads...and this helps massively with fuel economy.

Which 2.0 tdi are you after comparing with? 2.0 8v pd? 2.0 16v pd? 2.0 16v cr?

I can only compare the 2.0 TDi CR engine in the Yeti with my BKC 105hp PD engine in the Octavia and with both also pre and post remapping. The 2.0 is a far smoother refined engine, no question about that, the 1.9 was a bit rattly at tickover and a bit growly under load and was much more growly after remapping but in a pleasant way. Both engines were underpowered in 105/108hp tune and responded well to the remapping I think both engines after remapping have similar power and torque curves but the instantaneous acceleration of the 2.0 is initially lacking when you put your foot down to overtake, the 1.9 was pretty much instant, in standard tune overtaking power was lacking in both vehicles but the 2.0 would lull you into a false sense of security, with the extra gear it felt very nippy on medium throttle making you think you had the grunt to overtake but it was not there, this did not happen to me on the 1.9. Fuel economy is probably similar when you take into account the frontal area and 4x4 system of the Yeti. I agree with Mike that nothing since my 1.9 TDi MK1 Octavia has been as good for refinement and economy.

They should be able to swap out the SOS unit under warranty. It’s a know problem and fixed I. Many a mk4, including mine.

Much to my surprise, I actually like the colour - but not the hatchback shape. Much (as in VERY much) prefer the look of the estate version.