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Or you could do what I would do. Use the fan on settings 2 and 3 and forget about 1. Total cost, zilch.

Normally I am the first one to slate any and all dealerships but... You cant have your cake and eat it. You either want them to simply supply and fit a part (if you knew what part it was) - no liability on them for a wrong diagnosis and your problem if it doesn't work. Or you want them to do a end to end process that carries a guarantee where they listen to your symptoms, carry out a proper diagnosis, find the fault, located the faulty part or whatever else and then replace it, test the system again, return the car to you. You speak to someone and tell them your fan only works on settings 2 and 3, the person you speak to generally has 0 technical knowledge and is just there to book you in, and even if they did, there are many possible causes however unlikely some may be. If they quote you for what they 'think' it may be, say, a fan resistor at £30 and an hour to fit so lets say £130 all in, and it actually turns out your heater resistor has melted the wiring loom and the heater box itself at a cost of £1000's, well then you are going to complain because you were told it was only £130. You aren't telling them the problem, you are telling them your problem, which is just the symptoms you experience, you then have to pay them to find the actual problem. Which is more than reasonable.

Ok, do you want them to check exactly what the problem is, or just put a fan speed controller in the parts cannon and hope they've guessed right?

Whilst it may seem a bit crazy to risk $ on the motor, the reality is car has just over 100,000km and has tech pack and safety pack and just about every option other than sun roof. As such it’s worth $20-25,000 AUD comfortably when it’s back on the road. But as a wreck probably get around $2,000. It is sons first car and he won’t have the $$ to purchase same quality again. Happy to spend some father and son time (and fathers and mothers money) to get it going, have had plenty of cars and rebuilt motors over the years. Worst case scenario is a second hand Golf GTI motor is about $5k (Skoda should be cheaper but likely harder to find). Also have most tools to do the works, but also work in fabrication business with some pretty talented team members and full spray booth.. might have to shout a few beers yet.. We will aim to get it sorted, hopefully get details on keys etc tomorrow and start the process to get it inside shed and get working on it. Wish us luck and will keep you posted as lot more wisdom on this site that I will need to lean on. thanks Geoff

@toot Update: Had it towed to the mechanic Monday morning. Apparently one of the coils wasn’t connected properly. Mech said he swapped coils 1&2 over to see if it was damaged but everything worked so no faulty parts. reconnected everything properly and car is back to normal, no more engine light and no misfire. 🤦‍♂️

Only had it a month and i'm super happy with it.

Okay lets cover all basis - 1.4 TSI - Belt, Tensioner, Idler pulley, Seals, Bolts 1.5 TSI - Belt, Tensioner, Idler pulley, Seals, Bolts 1.5 TSI ACT - Belt, Tensioner, Idler pulley, Seals, Bolts, Possibly water pump needs removing but not replacing - Fairly expensive job due to specialized tools 1.5 TDI - Never actually done one so I cant give you any input on that 1.6 TDI - Belt, Tensioner, Idlers, Water pump, Bolts 2.0 TDI - Belt, Tensioner, Idlers, Water pump, Bolts 2.0 TSI - Timing Chain That should cover everything I hope (except 1.0, 1.2 and 1.8 engines)

I'm guessing they may all need to be re-synced Not sure the latest process but it used to simply be all windows fully down and continue to hold down for a couple seconds and then the same for up, holding up for a few seconds past closed. Don't use one touch up/ down, need to fully depress the buttons and keep hold holding

Have you asked what the issue is? Can you post it here, then people can advise. Just posting their solution isn’t much use on its own 👍🏻

Well they are some interesting theories! 1. Water pump doesn’t need doing as it’s on the opposite side of the engine 2. Spot on 3. Steer well clear - what cowboys recommend not replacing the tensioner! also as it’s a 1.5tsi they need a very specialised bit of kit to do the timing alignment which isn’t too cheap - I would be confirming the garage has access to this kit before they get started you will need to replace the belt; tensioner, idler and associated stretch bolts and the seals on both ends of the camshaft caps.

You're welcome, just hope it's the right answer and an easy resolution for you.

So I was umming and ahhing about shocks. I could pick up Sachs or Monroe easily enough but wanted Bilstein's so needed to measure. There seemed to be no way of confirming, although I was fairly sure, as were others, that it would be 55mm. Finally got to the point I could jack the car up and get a caliper on it to measure the width. 55mm. Part number 5Q0 413 031 FP was one part number, the other similar part number came back with nothing. The above part number confirms through various sites it's 55mm so I'll get the B4s ordered soon and hopefully get them on! I might splash out on some ARB links and other bits too but will see how the budget goes. Does anyone have any clue where to buy some half decent wheel caps too?? I have the originals without the fascia's but every eBay cap I try is naff. They last a year and corrode as well as sticking up off the cap itself. I don't want to spend original Skoda money or for Super Skoda honeycomb caps but will if this is all that's available.

You have to open 5F, and locate the value that is stored in that image from your car Then use the XOR website to input your value at the top To then make your new code Then input value with space here

Nothing wrong with replacing the air filter more frequently or changing the brake fluid when it has not absorbed any H2O but if you are paying a garage to do it then you might need to reflect. Service intervals seem to be all about maximising the revenue for the dealers whilst minimising what they actually do and charging for the maximum of parts often not fitted.

They can sell wheels.

Yes, that's all it is, helps make your VRS sound like a Massey Ferguson and pull the plod, does nothing else, win/win.

Welcome. They need to earn there money somehow. If the diagnosis takes 10 minutes then are they just going to charge you for the repair and waive the £99? There are Main Dealers charging more than that now. (Skoda fixed price servicing and maintenance had the first 30 minutes of a diagnosis at £60 last year at participating dealerships.) The repair will not be cheap anyway. Is there not an Independent VW specialist you can use rather than a main dealership?

On a long trip (mainly motorway / A roads, 300 miles) and driving at speed limit (+15%), I averaged 42mpg in IV TSI VRS. Honestly, I was quite impressed by that - I get 20-23mpg for town driving which is OK I suppose.

Back on topic. @dimrod As indicated i would, I posted in a few youtube failed balance shaft repairs, in the comments, asking about the balance shaft plastic shell. Finally got this, it is written from the perspective of the gen 2, not the gen 3, so mentions two balance shaft tubes but I haven't checked that aspect is the case for accuracy. I guess it must be and the set up is now different for the intake on gen 3. Roland M replying on YouTube. The plastic pipe prevents oil from foaming due to the rotation of the balance shafts. You should not try to run the engine without it installed. As per the VAG TechConnect article... "Of particular interest is that each balance shaft, while riding in bearings pressed into the block, is also encased in a plastic pipe. This innovative design serves as a shield for engine oil returning from the cylinder head to help reduce or eliminate the churning and foaming that would result if the oil flowed directly onto the balance shafts, which, as noted above, spin at twice engine speed." Found the original article. Link posted below. Again, for correct interpretation, please bear in mind the overall article is of the gen 2, so not identical in all respects to the gen 3. https://automotivetechinfo.com/2015/09/a-look-inside-the-2-0l-tsi-engine-with-its-chain-driven-cams-balance-shafts-vvt/

Thank you, will try later tbh even the one-touch function not working😂 Just bought the car a week ago from official Skoda dealer and trying to figure out how works everything

48 years in the AC/Refrigeration industry & I retired 2 years ago. I believe this document might be what you are looking for regarding the legal aspects. https://committees.parliament.uk/writtenevidence/82878/html/ There are a variety of cases where individuals & companies have been fined for releasing refrigerants to atmosphere & other F-Gas regulation infringements. That said, it is also well documented that DEFRA & the Environment Agency do not have the manpower to enforce these laws which allows widespread breaking of the laws to continue. Example. When I was involved in an AC installation company we regularly got calls from builders or office interior fit out companies who needed to move or relocate split AC systems as part of their their works. When we told them the price to attend site, remove & recycle the gas in accordance with F-Gas regs they said "nah, I'll get jimmy to "accidentally" cut the pipes!! Unless you can video someone in the act of deliberately releasing refrigerant to atmosphere then its very difficult to get a conviction. The cases that get prosecuted are mainly those involving workplace injuries or fatalities in which the HSE get involved. You are correct in that there are many many HVAC engineers in the UK but not nearly enough the increasing demand for home heat pump systems brought about by the increase in people working from home & the massive rise in Gas & Electricity prices. Most HVAC engineers are well trained & aware of their environmental responsibilities. However, like most industries, there are always a few rogues individuals & companies who seem to go out of their way to cut corners in the pursuit of profit or, are just unaware of the current regulations that apply to the industry they work in. As the famous saying goes, "ignorance is no defence in the eyes of the law".

You seem to be a bit unsure of the exact model you have, there is an SE, SE Technology, and also an SEL models. Both SE Tech & SEL had KESSY for a 20MY, yet you say the door handles have no dimple which would indicate no keyless entry. A few questions: Are you in the UK, is it a UK specification car, is it keyless start or do you have to put the key in the ignition, and does it have an electric boot lid and heated seats? (it may help us understand exactly which model you have).

Getting some sun on the Long Mynd

But then is info in the side panel under his name says 1.5Tsi... So we'll need to wait for confirmation but I'm guessing TSi...

You remember that new head unit you fitted recently.............................!

Sorry to raise this old topic, but I had the same issue, just to complete the info here Part Numer 25mm bungs N10246001 Broken bungs in my car: N102460TRW

A Fabia Combi is a niche market as it is never mind introducing PHEV to the equation. Given it;s size, your Fabia has masses of space inside but unfortunately a PHEV needs space for the battery. If you don't want an SUV then I struggle to think of a direct replacement. So you probably have a decision to make - do you replace the combi with a similar length car and accept there will be less space inside or go for a bigger car that has similar internal space. Hope that make sense? What about something like a Kia Xceed? Or rather than PHEV, consider an efficient Hybrid like Toyota Corolla if you want to retain the estate format? Although it's in the SUV type sector, I agree with Toot's the comment re: the Renault Captur. In ICE format the space on offer is pretty decent but the Hybrid I test drove was abysmal for our needs. We don't need rear passenger space so the best thing for us turned out to be a Yaris Cross which I have on order. Yes it's another SUV type vehicle but it's small and offers a really well shaped boot given it's length. Again it's not a PHEV but has an efficent Hybrid engine. Not to everyone's taste I'm sure, but like you, I was struggling to find something suitable for our needs.

I purchased a second hand MIB2 unit from Maciej Początek on face book ready coded plug and play.. 1.remove old head unit and glovebox Photo 2 & 6 2. cut away apart of the old head unit carrier as photo 7 3. move blue and green connectors from old quad lock into new wiring adaption loom photo 9 4. remove the 2 can wires from old grey connector and fit into new connector in the new quad lock ... see photo 8 & 1 5. slide wiring through into the glovebox area and connect to MIB2 unit... see photo 10 6. fit GPS aerial under dash ( onto of the heater) 7. slide MIB2 unit into the slot made into the old head unit carrier from the glovebox side 8. refit glovebox. 9. remove the upper 2 locks from the new head unit. you can be brutal and use a set of pliers. 10. slide new head unit into place photo 11 11. go through settings to make personal adjustments 12. code instrument cluster for nav with vag-com or similar parts used : MIB2 unit second hand : 5Q0 035 874 C conversion loom. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232403998.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.fdd82e0eCVlIZM head unit second hand : 6V0 919 604 B GPS aerial : Ebay

If the battery doesn't get a little warm from charging then it might not be charging enough, but if you only want to the battery to start the car and get the car on to whatever's taking it away you only need sufficient for that. 8v wasn't that low compared with the last two batteries I saw but some modern chargers need fooling if the battery is below 10.5V, others at 7-something volts IIRC (which is always doubtful). I think you might be a bit over-cautious with the charger's maximum voltage for the job in hand but I'm sure you'll get there, I'd be low and slow on the amps and have some reserve in the battery in case for whatever reason the car doesn't start well or there's a shuffle to load it or they turn up a day or two late for collection, Sod's Law always seems to apply when least convenient.

Thank you! 😂 I knew it was something stupid! got it sorted

Little update on the project. Rear beam painted and polybushes installed along with all new brake lines front to rear including goodridge flexi's. Whiteline ARB and Bilstein B16 adjustables. Just waiting on rear wheel bearings to arrive and then can fit the new calipers which have been painted and that's the rear end done then

Your Skoda dealer has to get authorisation from Skoda Uk. They will ask if you have had your dealer investigate. So yes go to your dealer. After that if matters do not improve you can escalate to Skoda UK by phone or Skoda Executive by email.

My infotainment reset yesterday am on 1900 software

Could be a simple fix like this…

You were on the right track when you replaced the MAF as P0101 relates to that. When did you last replace the engine air filter as ths is one potential cause? Here is the definitive list of causes and actions: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16485/P0101/000257

Maybe we need a claim scheme as in diesel gate that will get the ball rolling

Thanks for the feedback! Pilot Sport 5 or 4S?

As you can see in the below chart, there are three different front buffers with heights of 55mm, 70mm, and 90mm. The 55mm front buffer is for sports springs, ie. lowered ride height. The 70mm front buffer is for standard ride height. The 90mm front buffer is for increased ride height. Superb MK3 buffers for front shock absorbers 3 1K0412303B rubber stop for shock absorber 70mm 2 PR-G01 3 1K0412303F rubber stop for shock absorber 55mm 2 PR-G02 3 1K0412303AA rubber stop for shock absorber 90mm 2 PR-G03 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/4/411/411000 55mm front buffer 70mm front buffer 90mm front buffer As you can see in the below chart, there are two different rear buffers with heights of 112mm and 127mm. The 112mm rear buffer is for sports suspension, ie. lowered ride height. The 127mm rear buffer is for standard ride height and increased ride height. Superb MK3 buffers for rear shock absorbers 11 5Q0511357H Stop buffer 127mm 2 PR-1JA,UC7 11 5Q0511357J Stop buffer 112mm 2 PR-1JC 112mm rear buffer 127mm rear buffer

😂 well I must confess I am. I’ve just come out of a Freelander and I know from fellow owners that they’d found wiring in place for certain items. Assumed it’d be the same for Skoda.

Prepare to be very surprised.

You're right. I don't now how other dealers do, but I've noticed that mine systematically moves the front lights button from "AUTO" to "OFF". That sometimes surprises me when I drive into a tunnel... I regularly forget to check this kind of things, when I take my car back. 🙄

Thank you so much. Sorry I forgot to say - 2019 TSi. Just under 30k miles. I did get all the filters, including cabin done in March with service. But no harm checking. In respect of the sensor. I could not see any wires round the air filter box. Am I looking in the right place? I imagined it was near the intake but nothing obvious there. Regards Bob

New cars will Happily regen at speeds of 30mph now! It’s nothing to do with engine speed and load, the car will create its own load through the auxiliary components if required and to increase temperature it uses a mix of glowplugs, post fuel injection and throttle control in the exhaust

Yes, as I told you in the other forum, its very easy. I normally use Google Maps with Android Auto, but sometimes I have to use the built in navigation system, so, as more update is, better.

Sorry, I should’ve been clearer; it has been making the noise since December, but I had no time to go back initially as we drove to Ireland the following day and TBH, life has just got in the way since then. Yeah, I suppose the leak test could be inaccurate, but I’d suspect it’s unlikely. As you say, time will tell. Perhaps I should get a second opinion from the Halfords aircon expert (a Master Tech too, apparently) we went to last year (no fix no fee) who said the wife’s AC was fully gassed so it had to be the compressor which had failed. Yeah, it was completely empty…. 🙄

I'm inclined to agree with you, if there was the incorrect of gas recharged, then it would have been making those noises from December.

UPDATE. So, he was right, there was nowhere near the amount of gas in the system there should’ve been. Noise has gone (yay!) and in now it’s seriously bloody cold! He said that the likes of KF don’t have a clue what they’re doing and invariably have their “automatic” Aircon regas “Dalek” incorrectly setup so it doesn’t fully discharge the system and / or delivers too little gas or both. His “system” was fully manual, so he completely removed the gas and oil, checked the system for leaks and slowly recharged it. He also put in an additive which lubricates the seals and has a die in it so a leak can be identified under UV light. Cost was £130, so yeah, more expensive than KF but it’s fixed. Anyone in interested in his services in Surrey/South London drop me a PM for his details.👍🏻

Traded in my 2016 Octavia Vrs TDI estate today for a 2019 Kodiaq 2.0 Tsi Sportline 4x4. My wife says I have finally bought a grown ups car only taken 60 years😁