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Id be getting a detailed engineers report first. Due to lack of oil is an interesting one, there are many possibly causes - Oil pump failure meaning no pressure? High pressure leak meaning unable to build pressure? No oil at all in the engine? Oil diluted to the point it doesn’t do it’s job? Oil gallery blockages? Oil pickup blockages? how much oil came out the engine? Any oil contamination? Any debris in the oil? If it’s down to oil pressure - why no low pressure warning? if it’s down to low or no oil - again why no pressure warning + no level warning? You say the engine turned over before? If the engine was seized the starter motor would make a faint click and nothing more. What has actually seized? The crankshaft? The camshafts? Has the engine been stripped down to find out which of these parts caused the seizing? Are the bearings overheated? Is there any bearings left? can the engine be rebuilt with oversized bearings and a reground bearing surface? these are just a few of the questions I would want to know the answer to - and if your mechanic can’t answer them, take the car elsewhere. everyone is so quick to replace rather than repair - often at the customers expense!

@haz0r @stripy007 @tomiss @Dillers @AdiKX @florian_ @SvenIngvarsson check your inboxes. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS on page 26 kindly put up by @TheWanderer

I am confused. You said that the starter motor would turn over but the "mechanic" says that the engine is seized! If the engine was seized then, in my opinion, the starter motor would not be able to turn it.

Without the AC on it will only get as cool as the ambient air. You are correct about the auto function.

little update here, I replaced the blower motor and the sound is gone 👍

Nice mods and you’ve gotta love a sleeper. Similar journey for mine. Came from a modded diesel 4x4 superb. Had to have the 272. lowered on H&R with koni special actives. Racingline elbow, muffler delete, R600, silicone hose, GFBDV+ mapped by TVS engineering in the Netherlands. Including their stage2+ dsg map. Also Zimmerman formula z discs upfront and drilled coat z on the back h&r arb kit next and super pro bottom arms. Was the arb east to fit, did you have to drop the subframe. I also have a Racingline subframe alignment kit to fit so will probs do at same time.

SKF is top quality and £45 is not expensive. It's easy to fit because the wheel bearing has already been pressed into the hub by the manufacturer. It's a very common part as it's used in a huge number of VAG cars not just the Rapid. SKF front wheel bearing kit 6R0407621A https://www.autodoc.co.uk/skf/1362679

I'll stick my hand up to that - yes I do - I generally run the Eco (2.7 bar I think) pressures on a daily basis but up them to the loaded ones (3.0 at the rear from memory) when we're doing long fully loaded runs (eg holiday run to Belfast and back or a run to and from Lancaster to Uni with my daughter - both fully laden). There is a noticeable difference when laden as the back of the car is more stable, presumably due to less tyre squish)

Makes sense. If the starter turns, the engine 'aint seized - unless you've stripped the flywheel or starter sprocket which is V unlikely.

+1 👍 '"chuuugh-chuuugh-chuuugh-chuuugh-chuuugh"' - sounds more like the description of an engine turning over (i.e. not seized) than a starter/solonoid/relay clicking. Gaz

340x30mm ventilated front discs and 310x22mm ventilated rear discs are used on the Superb MK3 272PS/280PS. 312x25mm ventilated front discs and 300x12mm solid rear discs are used on the Superb MK3 220PS. According to Brembo, the discs weigh as follows. So the 272PS/280PS models use discs that are a lot more substantial than the discs on the still quite quick 220PS model. Weight of each front disc 340x30mm 10.8kg (+25.6%) 312x25mm 8.6kg Weight of each rear disc 310x22mm 6.8kg (+33.3%) 300x12mm 5.1kg Brembo diagram showing 10.8kg weight for 340x30mm ventilated front disc Brembo diagram showing 8.6kg weight for 312x25mm ventilated rear disc Brembo diagram showing 6.8kg weight for 310x22mm ventilated rear disc Brembo diagram showing 5.1kg weight for 300x12mm solid rear disc

@Bap33 to be honest you don’t really need to go with physically bigger brakes with the stock Golf R ones with come with the 2.0 TSI 4x4. Rotor and pad upgrade along with better brake fluid will be more than enough even for light track work.

Thank goodness, I was worried my Lamborghini might have been damaged. Don't care so much if the Bentley is a gonner though.

So... What's next? The RacingLine catalogue of intake goodies: - RacingLine R600 foam intake - RacingLine Silicone hose - RacingLine Turbo inlet Elbow - RacingLine Turbo Muffler delete IMG_6702.HEIC Installation was quite doable for someone who works on a computer behind a desk, with only a little bit of wrenching experience. Installing the turbo muffler delete was a pain in the ass, but mostly because of the available space in the and not wanting to remove the battery didn't help in that matter... But other than that, quite a doable mod on your driveway. After the intake, it was off to the tuner to free some of that 2.0tsi horsies that were just waiting to be set loose! After some research I settled on Tuning Service Huizen. These guys are specialized in VAG and BMW, even though they also tune other brands. Before making an appointment I went by to have a chat with them on how they work and tune. Their approach and way of working ("I don't like talking in stages, even though I have to put stages and figures on my website to sell, I just look at what a car can comfortably make. I much rather have a car that does 300hp with good reliability and more important drivability, then have 322hp and put everything on the edge of what's possible") as well as some of their comments (make sure you have new spark plugs installed before coming over, so that there won't be any issues in that department) made me choose them for the tuning of the car. The car started off as a very "happy" car, as the guys at Tuning Service told me. Not only produced the car much more hp and Nm than stock (nearly 296hp and 370nm, a common thing with detuned 2.0tsis but also the RacingLine intake was credited), all the logs showed it was just a very happy and eager engine. Good stuff! After some 0s and 1s, a few runs and bit more fiddling, a very surprising result came out of it: 381,6hp and 473,2Nm! (engine power) And that with a (for the Netherlands) higher ambient temperature (nearly 24 C), so in fall/winter it will even be a bit more. Especially the mountain-range of torque available already at 2750rpm and the high max power really pleased the guys as Tuning Service as well as myself of course. 71041643783__527E68B6-0691-46FF-8D46-E3443B36FCBA.heic The result is a rocketship on wheels, it's just phenomenal! I can't wait for the first time I'm lined up at a traffic light next to a GTI, R or S3, and I'll maybe even try the odd S4, 340i or C43 to play with! Especially the Superb still looking like the umpteenth 1500cc, zero to 60 in minutes, daddy needs space, company car and not showing its performance potential really excites me. Last weekend I spent a weekend in Germany (hello unrestricted Autobahns!) and let the Superb loose for a bit, unfortunately did not have the chance for a full top-speed run (traffic and sometime quite strong cross-winds), but having to let off at 276kph indicated (265 gps) is still mightily impressive. With how fast it was still accelerating, I would say it should do 290kph indicated at least! And seeing a pushy Mercedes S500 disappear in the rear view mirror of your Skoda Superb is just priceless...😂 For now (at least) that's where the modding ends. I have some things planned still, both in the performance department as well as the practical department, so will keep you all posted!

Hi there Yes!! It was a faulty wheel bearing and some magnetic disc thing (no idea of name) around the bearing. All fixed under warranty by skoda. Bearing fixed on front right wheel and all fine codes went away!

I replied on the other thread. It could be a fluid leak, its difficult to refit the hydraulic pipe to the master cylinder and the seal has to be put on precisely, it can leak and be unseen. To confirm or rule that out take the cap off the brake master cylinder reservoir and look at the level, if it is part way down and just beneath the take off point for the clutch cylinder then you have a leak somewhere in the clutch system, hopefully the master cylinder connection. If you can see fluid leaking from the gearbox bellhousing it will be a leaking concentric slave cylinder although usually they take in air without leaking.

I would just chip in on the exhaust aspect. When I was checking out my 2014 Toledo recently I noticed the rear silencer was rusting really badly. No garage I went to could supply a replacement - of any kind - it was dealer only (rear silencer only remember) at £240 + fitting. I spent ages searching online and got a part from Lithuania delivered for £81. Obviously I've got to fit it myself or pay someone to do it. The fact is that these cars are relatively rare so an exhaust will be pricy. Wheel bearings however are common as muck and can be had for tuppence...

Depending on your estimated load, simply extrapolate a suitable pressure somewhere between the two sets of figures.

Mine came with an extra years warranty and given the issues with these I think it might be time for a change when that comes to an end. Don't fancy paying dealer hourly rates whilst they try and guess what the problem is. Good Luck!

The fuel filler cap has a small hole it it to let air in to the fuel tank as it empties. If this is blocked then air will not get in to the fuel tank. What can happen is the fuel pump when working will make the fuel tank shrink. A bit like you blowing in to a crisp bag ( to pop it ) but then sucking the air back out. Has your fuel tank shrunk? Thanks. AG Falco

Well, it wouldn't work at all first thing but at the end of my trip it did work and read 80%

Interesting report, strange they are picking out Tesla. In the screenshots of the video all Tesla did was provide EPA or WLTP ranges. Same as every other car manufacturer. I can't comment on appointment cancellations, but unlike other auto makers, Tesla can do remote diagnostic. So from outside it may feel like shoulder shrugging. When has any vehicle actually achieved advertised MPG/range in non-ideal conditions? Many traditional car journalist doesn't seem to understand that to get most out of the car, pre-condition it before leaving. It is widely accepted in EV circle that Tesla's efficiency (and thus range) seems to suffer the least from temperature variations out of all EV's. I seems to recall the same correction were requested on Korean cars: https://evfleetworld.co.uk/hyundai-kona-electric-driving-range-corrected-to-279-miles/ That's the whole point! Instead of displaying a guess range based on unknown variables, Tesla display a consistent value based on usable charge remaining. The latter is much more deterministic and useful than a value that drops by 50% just because I was driving up hill for 1 mile. Personally, I never look at range estimates. I completely ignore the guess-o-meter in my Leaf, I set my Tesla to show %. The only thing I take note is sat-nav estimated arrival %, and it has always been within a few % for me, no matter the condition. This bit is interesting, until you go and read Edmunds test methodology: 60% urban and 40% highway. https://www.edmunds.com/car-news/electric-car-range-and-consumption-epa-vs-edmunds.html I don't know about you, I find my first-gen 24 kWh Leaf has plenty of range for urban uses. The reason I buy a bigger battery EV is for driving longer distances on "highway". So the only efficiency value that I'm interested in for EV's are the highway efficiency. I'd take the Bjorn's 1000 km test over any traditional car journalist every time.

Auto will also change where the air is directed to. AC will also help dehumidify the cabin. I would suggest leaving both turned on and altering the temperature as required

It's a low torque application, just nipped it up plus a bit more. Having looked again at the spanner it is 9/16 Whitworth, the other end, 1/2 W would fit with judicious tapping with a hammer. My policy of never throwing away something that might be useful in the future pays off once again.

It's a fairly quick and easy job to inspect the valves with a borescope through the spark-plug holes. That would allow more accurate quotes for chain replacement versus chain replacement plus headwork to be made. Is it the 60bhp or 70bhp version of the 1.2 HTP? Valve damage is almost inevitable if the latter has a chain slip, I think. Either way it will be a lot of labour hours, so nastily expensive. Do you park on a slope regularly, by any chance? If so do you leave it in a gear that would cause the engine to rotate backwards if the handbrake allowed some movement?

It is complex, so more so than others. Say take a 2021 Carrot like yours but with one of the five different systems, say one of the three single dosing (there are two twin dosing versions) systems "Exhaust gas treatment system For vehicles with selective catalytic reduction (SCR) 4-wheel drive with PR:1E9+4BF, 7CP" This has a "close coupled" Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) after the turbo followed by a reductant injector which has a Diesel Particulate Filter below (with combined EGR cooler) and into a Selective Catalytic Reduction catalyst under the car. I have been doing this for 42 years and to be honest it is getting too much, Frankenstein technology. This stuff is EU6, EU7 will be MUCH worse.

It’s easy enough to change the pollen filter yourself, and use an air con bomb to sanitise the system.

All sorted, there was not too much oil around the switch but taking the connector off revealed that the fitting was full of it, a cheap replacement is now fitted, all tickety boo. It's a good job I did not throw away the old imperial open ended spanners, the one inch one came into play Thanks for your help.

Yes, the new foam is round, and fits over the centre of the wheel, it has various slots for the jack, wheel brace, tow hook, wheel nut cover tweezers and centre cap puller. There is also a bolt with thumbwheel that stops the spare sliding around, can't remember if this comes with polystyrene and toolkit. I suspect the hole for it is under your rectangular tray. EDIT just seen it is in the photo @Carlston did in post2

I actually think the brakes are fine as is. They are already chunky at 340mm up front.

Google is right.

You should be able to order the correct spare wheel kit that includes everything you need except the actual spare wheel, eg. foam, jack, etc. Just give the VAG parts department the OEM part number which is 5E0093860E The dealer should be able to confirm that this OEM part number is correct. For the spare wheel, you could purchase either a 6Jx15 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim or a 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 steel rim, with either a 195/65R15 or 205/55R16 tyre. If you're currently on 15" wheels, then a 15" spare wheel makes sense. If you're on 16" or larger wheels, then a 16" spare wheel makes sense. However, you could use a 15" spare wheel with 16" or larger wheels. When fitting a spare wheel that is smaller than the wheels on the car, just treat it like a space saver spare wheel and don't exceed 50mph. One advantage to using a 15" spare wheel instead of a 16" spare wheel, is that it weighs a little less. Foam and jack spare wheel kit 5E0093860E https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/sady-pro-vymenu-kol/c/setsToChangeWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AOctavia%2BIII%2B%282017%2B%29&text=# Alcar 7755 6Jx15 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Octavia MK3) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=502374009556452464&rimCode=ALCAR7755 Alcar 8667 6.5Jx16 ET46 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Octavia MK3) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=502374009556452464&rimCode=ALCAR8667

I believe it does do what he says if the shunt resistor cable is disconnected, but probably with a lower charging voltage, something like 13.7v max and not 14.4v. Charging voltage reduces when the battery approaches full charge anyway, if it mimics the operation of the normal alternator regulator it will do the same.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I think they are taking the wee wee out of you. Just searched front wheel bearing for my Toledo (2014) and plenty to be had for sub £30. Never fitted one but it seems they fit the Polo, Ibiza, Rapid etc, a standard fit maybe. On another bearing plenty aftermarket bearing for my Mazda for around £75, dealer OEM want about £175. Maybe it's a dealer price part they can't get aplenty hence the price??

I would fit one or the other first (if you can). If you fit springs/shocks and rear bar at the same time you won't know what has the desired effect. I'd go for the rear bar first as that should have the greater effect on the roll control. Then go shocks if it's still an issue. If you can afford to put it in a third time, maybe fit B6 shocks on stock springs before going for lowering springs. I'd predict that B6 shocks at stock height with a stiffer rear bar will give you 85% of what you want.

Skoda Superb 3v Sportline

2. That's too high a voltage for an AGM/EFB battery that's fully charged. That's why everything had to change for these types.

@Fr13ndlyGhost looks like you have been having fun, building a monster of a sleeper. @KeteCantek snap in a couple of weeks doing the same, not sure how much I can push it as will have the wife and two kids with me.

Otherwise, small satisfaction of last week-end: nice detailing of the cabin of Moby **** (that's the little nick name of my car, since it looks like the big whit whale 😁). Quite happy to see my Superb sooo clean! BTW, it gave me the opportunity to compare "Sprayabale Leather conditioner and cleaner" from Chemical guys (which I used on my wife's Q3 a week before) and "Gold Class" from Meguiars' which I used for my Superb. Finally, I think I prefer Meguiars' regarding the final aspect, since it almost doesn't modify the appearance. Leathers remain quite mat, as if they were coming straight from the assembly line. Considering now the nourishing and protection effects, errr... I would be very annoyed to try telling which is the more efficient. Some pics of the cleaning : After cleaning with only soapy water : A nice mat aspect, close to its appearance when coming out from assembly line the steering wheel is a bit too shiny though. I had a better result on my wife's Q3 a week ago... After applying Meguiars' Gold class: Moby **** still looks good though 97500km and almost 6 years on the clock.

This is dragging on. Either way, you can't buy one and the car will be fine without it. Chuck it in the bin and move on.

Since the highbeam is pretty bad i fitted a ledbar to improve the light a bit, happy with the result 🙂 It's dark here in Sweden during winter and a lot of wildlife on the roads so have to be prepared. I've crashed with a moose once and I dont want to experience that again. Will be changing the xenonbulbs too before winter comes, i think there is room for improvement there also.

Estates now gone to a new home. I've had a 5pot itch for a few years and a mate offered me a straight swap on a mk2 focus st225 Friday so we did the deal yesterday. It's been a pleasure for the last 2 years and I'm hoping the focus will be just as good. Stay safe folks and for now goodbye. I may see you again in the future who knows.

A pressure sensor wouldn’t cause the failure of a DPF. A DPF is a ceramic monolith, the only way of failure would be impacted by something such as the tip of a temperature sensor or the impeller from the turbo. or The DPF has got to a temperate probably over 1000c and it has caused the failure through melting. The only way this could of happened would be: Air - possible air leak or over boost Fuel - leaking injector would dump excess fuel into the exhaust and cause the temperature rise Timing - you’d expect a fault code for this but bad timing could cause it. personally I’d be smoking testing the engine, checking the turbo is still in one piece and also checking them injectors. also chances are the dpf pressure sensor is not faulty - it will read high/low circuit faults when it gets to absolute extremes of pressure readings (because that’s how self diagnosis of the modules work) and with a solid dpf it would send the pressure sky high throwing the voltage over 4.5V which triggers a high voltage fault/short circuit fault

You pay your money or not and make your choices when you run keepers. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/515199-timing-belt-am-i-screwed

Wrong assumption. Changing (or probably not!) brake fluid at 2 years is a pish take.

I was charging today and got talking to a couple with a Vauxhall Mokka Electric they got in March. They were / are so disappointed with the car and wish they had not made the error of getting it. I asked the lady what the issue was and it was lack of performance and range and chargers because they like going north on trips, around the North & North East of Scotland. I asked how she drives and she says in ECO all the time and i asked why. Well the Salesperson set it in ECO for her and she has never changed it and other settings were set by her son and she just drives. So i showed her that her car starts in D, Drive and unless she pressed the Switch to change to ECO she has never been in Eco. She has never used Sport, knows nothing about it, nothing about regen or going into B. Yet in her previous car she had 'Coasting' function and knew how to nip on and 'Coast' or drop a gear or 2 and slow down. I showed how the screens worked and quick steps like touch the touch screen with 3 fingers to bring up the different functions. This was while we were both on 7 kW chargers and she said they have a charger at home and how many hours they spend charging on trips. They were told not to use Rapid chargers, never been on a CCS, never pulled the cover off so that they knew what the CCS looked like. There must be many many being sent out with BEV,s and PHEV,s from dealerships with no knowledge of the vehicles they just got.

@Stunner good to hear u were able to get the DCC recalibration done on urs, and its made a difference. with regards to the level sensors - there r only 3 sensors - front left/right and rear left. these r located next to the control arms. there is no rear right, which is why its deflected value doesn't change from 33%. the DCC shocks determine the voltage required (for the valve control) based on these 3x level control sensors. each DCC mode (comfort, normal, sport) has its own mapping algorithm, combined with the input values from the level sensors, to determine the dampening level. with regards to the "theory" behind how/why its done, this is the info i found:- The calibration is done with all four wheels off the ground, so the DCC module stores the fully extended value of the sensors. Once the car is back on the ground the DCC module stores a "center" value. This part doesn't require using any of the various coding tools so possibly the module learns this value over a few power cycles or maybe just the first time that it's back on the ground. From that point it's able to do its thing based on the position of the level sensors, the accelerometers and your selected mode. With recalibration done, the DCC module will interpret your lower ride height (from installing springs) as suspension compression, albeit mild, and slightly stiffen all four corners, at all times. Depending on the drop this might not be significant. DCC will only allow you to run calibration (basic settings) with the suspension fully extended. It will only run if the level sensors are in the proper range. They should be when the suspension is extended. You can check each sensor (front left/right and left rear) in measuring blocks for a value that says calibration available (or something like that). It will say possible or not possible. All three need to say possible or else the basic settings won't run. Just because all the wheels are off the ground doesn't mean the values are within limits. it is necessary that the raw values are between the limits 1 and the limits 2 in rebound for each wheel except rear right which does not have a level sensor I don't know the actual full range for the sensors but let's call it 0 - 100. The DCC module expects each sensor to be within a certain range (with the wheels hanging) in order to perform the basic settings (calibration). As an example, let's say it expects a value between 20 - 40. If any sensor is not in that range it will not perform the calibration. In this example all of the sensor should read between 20 - 40 when the wheels are hanging. But if a sensor is broken (could be bent, broken, internally failed, wiring issue, improperly mounted, whatever) it may read a value that is out of that range. Having much shorter suspension (say coil overs set to their lowest) could also cause the value to be out of range (shorter strut means lower control arm doesn't hang down as far). So if the arm of the left front sensor on this example car was bent, it may read a value of 45 with the wheels hanging. That is out of the expected range, so calibration will not work.

The clever part in Simply Clever is probably the self-cleaning feature of the inside of the headlights I suppose. We just didnt think of that ;)