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Soon, the old girl as looking as good as new... 😎 *footnote from first post - the chrome strip is made from purest unobtainium, fashioned by blind nuns in the Carpathian Mountains. Hence, the retail price of £104...🤦‍♂️

Good job!

I may be wrong. But if you take a look at each spring, transport blocks are big enough, so that they can’t be missed. No real need to go to a dealer to check if they’re still ON. 😉

I’ve seen some others reporting a noise from the front end during slow traffic through town etc or slowing for lights, parking etc. I have over the last while replaced a few bits to help sort my suspension to a state I’m more happy with than the factory offering. When the front shocks were replaced along with top mounts and new bearings, it removed the usual rumble noise. however it still left the creaking/grinding noise that myself and others have mentioned. from around 10k the dealers have been greasing as usual to remedy the noise, which always came back. Now the warranty is up and it’s not an issue, the cause has been found in the lower arms. The bushes allowed enough flex/travel to actually rub the arm. I’ve replaced both front arms with Superpro TRC1070 items and the front end is now absolutely silent. Pics for reference

Popped to Attenborough nature reserve earlier - lots of wildlife, including Newts! Reckon I may have spotted the Otters, but not easy to photograph!

The bumper - predictably - had several cracks in it (it's the collapsable area of the car, after all). Dave is a motorcycle racer, and has repaired more pieces of broken Tupperware than I have had hot dinners, so he made quick work of the cracks with a combination of locking wire, superglue and cable ties... 😃

I had a similar problem with my Fabia a few years ago. Initially the dealer said not to worry. I took it in again and went out with the service manager who agreed there was a problem. They replaced the clutch pack under warranty which fixed the problem.

And that's why this is not a DPF regeneration folks.

Percies Eos 250D 50mm lens. 15" f2.8 ISO 800 cropped

A few from the garden

Thanks everyone, I'll get my finger out and try all of your suggestions in the morning.

Was looking at the Skoda Owners Facebook page today, and a member Mike Holroyd seems to have finally sorted the issue with the dipping passenger mirror. I know other members on here have struggled to get this coding to work on their Octavias, so I thought I would post this, if it helps. Credit: Mike Holroyd "Passenger mirror dip in reverse - Octy 3 (MQB) Had a play with VCDS on the Leon this afternoon (same as the Octy3) and finally managed to get the reverse gear passenger door mirror dip to work after months of trying. Yes I know it's been sorted on a Seat, but I'm putting this on here as I have seen folks asking on here too as to why it isn't working on their Octy 3. Found a bit of info on an Audi forum, and everything now working perfectly As well as the well documented changes to the 09 Central Electronics module (access code 31347), there is a further setting in 52 Passenger door electronics - it appears that switching on the mirror dip in central electronics can also switch on the "memory mirror with memory seats" option in the door controller, and with no memory seats fitted, if that is ticked, the dipping function won't work. This setting is not documented anywhere I could find! So the complete coding for activating the mirror dip is: Controller 09 - Central Electronics 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 10 - Adaptation (15)-Access control 2-Spiegelabsenkung bei Rueckwaertsfahrt - change to active (this switches function on) (20)-Access control 2-Menuesteuerung Spiegelabsenkung - change to active (this switches on an extra entry on the mirror option in the settings menu in the infotainment screen) Controller 52 - Passenger door electronics Long coding -> Function 07 (no access code needed) Byte 04 DEACTIVATE bit 1 Mirror memory function (with memory seats) installed/active (NOT TICKED - if it is ticked, it will not work) Activate bit 2 Reverse gear mirror dipping active (TICKED) Activate bit 3 Position memory for Reverse Gear Mirror Dipping active (TICKED) Close controller, unplug VCDS, switch off ignition, lock car, unlock it again and switch ignition back on to reboot. This coding will be exactly the same on the Octy 3 - hope it helps someone out Remember, the mirror adjustment switch needs to have the left mirror selected for this to work."

Thought i had updated this thread since but I guess not. Was hoping to avoid driving this since it's last excursion in the UK. Lucky had a spare damaged but still working foglamp to put in. Since poorly painted to match. Lips still damaged and needing painted too. Tyres are all on the limit and I do not want anything less than pilot sports on it now. Needs tracked badly also. Right rear caliper is sticking slightly. Enough to make noise when you turn left. Timing belts still due and it's developed a slight tick. Sounds like lifter tick and I only hear it when the windows are down around town. It's slight. Having said all this you'll be surprised to hear that It's been back in England. Retrorides was on and it was the event I have been getting the justy ready for. The justy was running perfect right up until I left town, then it wasn't anymore. Limped it home, dumped the luggage into this and flew down to the ferry terminal, no checks, no prep to it just went. Fair play to it, it didnt miss a beat. Made me feel a bit bad about neglecting it in favour of the justy. Some interesting stuff there, Not happy the justy failed but I still got there. And it was nice to be able to cruise at 70 and still get over 65mpg. Writing this on the ferry back so not done yet. Figure it'll have done just shy of 700 miles this weekend. And even though I really have been trying to avoid driving it, for the time being I've been commuting in it. I'm temporarily doing a 50 mile a day commute, vs where I normally work being a 6 mile commute. When I get back I'm going to prioritise getting this back to top shape before anything else. I think I have enough spares to get the justy going again, and the vRSDI I have enough to get it back together as it is.

Use a ratchet strap attached to something big, like another car or van.

There should be a label in the fuel filler flap that has recommended tyre pressures based on tyre size and car occupancy.

Thanks. Hopefully I haven't put too much pressure in.

@brin23ukWelcome to the forum. Looking forward to hearing how the Fabia looks 18 years on.

I recall reading somewhere that you have to raise some type of shroud on the suspension unit to see if the transport blocks have been removed.

That's not regen, it's a dodgy injector, the VAG 1.6 is famous for killing injectors.

Hello everyone. I'm new to these parts and I'm from Spain. I met you online and although my English is pretty bad, I manage. I own a 2004 FABIA RS mk1, which I adore and hope to keep for many years to come. Best regards!!

ha ha ha. between something I know and google I am defending myself

I think you will find that you will be able to see fluid level, even if fluid is clear, when it is nearer correct level - I would suggest removing some fluid from reservoir until level is correct (use something clean). Have you had a recent brake pad change?

Check your tyre pressures are correctly set as per the table you can find inside the fuel filler flap. I believe that the tyres are set at the factory extremely high (I heard around 50 psi), to ensure no tyre distortions are developed if the car is stood for a long time. They should then be reduced to correct setting at PDI, sometimes overlooked.

It is the same with the BXE rod failure, done lots of preventative bearing changes (removing some VERY worn upper shells), but never actually seen one stick it’s neck out the block.

That amount of visible smoke isn’t normal. If it is something to do with a regen then it is dumping way too much diesel.

I see what you did there! 😄

Peace be with you Brother.

Yup. Edit:-that was in response to AGFalco.

A bit like driving with your wheel bolts / nuts loose. ? 🤔 Thanks. AG Falco

That's because it's low grade stainless steel, also diesels don't rot exhausts from the inside like petrols used to before the sulphur content was drastically reduced.

Yes that would make sense, except I've driven up and down the country and it's never displayed anything other than 3G. I don't think it's the SIM card as you can't even buy 3G SIM cards these days, and the CarStick states it's LTE/4G. So I think it's probably just an oversight in the car's software, in that it can't distinguish between 3G and 4G connections.

Welcome. Some would say your English is as good as mine and I’ve lived here all my life 😏

You say blue smoke, but that picture looks like white smoke to me? Can you post a link to the video?

Check the Winter Tyre speed limit setting, which you will be able to access using the infotainment screen under Tyres.

This morning starting charging at 43% and it is 14.5*c and just driven 200 yards to charger it took 35 minutes to 99% and showing 120 mile range. Charging with heating and heated seat and radio on. 18 kWh & FREE. 380 miles since new and so far paid £4.20 at home and 71 pence on a AC public and yesterday £5.97 on one of the DC chargers to charge 17 kWh. Happy with the car and comfort. Today I will try green mode as going up to some wind farms and onto some good driving roads. 'Dynamic traction control' is very good. The warning ⚠️ or just info comes up. "Dynamic traction control activated. Maximum traction on loose surfaces. Restricted driving stabilisation and driver assistance.". It is just on a toggle switch beside the 4 drive modes & the regen mode. No searching on a screen. The screen menu,s and selection is good though with I-drive or touch screen and no lag. Ps. Does not want to go to 100% which is fine as regen would be unavailable.

Totally agree that free wheeling is best when one can do it. Car market has a good choice of cars to obtain, EVs and hybrids, despite the UK being RHD and missing a few models. In the Zoe EV this is easy peasy but not in the family's newly acquired hybrid Clio ETECH so I will no be doing in that car I am thinking but that saying, even when one is in B mode max regen, which is still not regen massively in to its tiny 1.2 kWh battery it was good to see that pressing the brake pedal adds a whole lot more regen go in to the little hybrid battery, no actually kW meter like in the Zoe but it must be at least a couple of handfuls of kWh but not enough to cook that little hybrid battery. The reward is enough electrical power for EV mode half the time or so but then quite a nice rorty warble with the ICE kicks in but also low 60s per gallon now but should be closer to 70 mpg after a bit more running in and adapting to the car, just a shame it always starts in the mid setting My Sense rather than being able to get it start automatically in ECO mode. Weirdly actually enjoying the full EV Zoe more than anytime in the last two years but then it is summer, the range is well over 200 miles but I can also see the strengths of both full hybrids and mild hybrids, owning one of those each in addition to the Zoe, combine cost price of all three was only about £75k or actually the PC payment for all three are only just over £600 with a bit of deposit on some and of course all quite cheap to run with low fuelling costs and servicing.

A Lumix TZ70 compact camera 👍

Its not T2000, its an elegance...

Sounds to me that under those circumstances, the car is taking over a shut-down sequence that the driver is failing to do i.e. secure the car before switching off. It is more instinctive to me to Stop, Hit Park, Switch Off, in that sequence.

Sometime today I passed 43210 miles on my car, however when I looked it was too late. I noticed this morning I was on 431,something, but didn't do the maths. I will have to try and catch 54,321 miles in a few years time.

Yes, the Kodiaq has the Haldex gen 5 , that’s why I posted that link.

Try shoogling the car whilst looking at the level you may see the fluid moving.

They are shot, your observations re Skoda are correct, VAG even created a BS document speaking of "misting" from vaporised damping fluid conveniently being blind to the boiling point being around 300°C. Try trading it in towards a newer model and see how their tune changes! The one photo'd is an MOT failure and by extension the vehicle is not safe to be driven, I never make these kind of alarmist projections (wrong word) but in your case you need some leverage against the crooks, I would give them one more opportunity to reconsider their position before you pay to have the urgent repairs done and obtain a judgement against them in the small claims court. Heck the BS document even has photos to show what they claim is misting and what is a leak, the latter is far less than yours so by their own admission they are trying it on. Hopefully someone will link to the document.

Ressurecting this thread a little as I have reached another milestone with the Van, its not doing bad for 15 years old...

Had the roof wrapped today, so tied in nicely with the black bootlid, also fit some new vrs badges with red this time, just de wiper to do at some point and probably going to tint the rear lights slightly

Trip to Skodafest last Sunday little 6hr round trip, only two citigos there. First proper show with it had some great comments mainly what engines that? Haha

" Sorry, the file you have requested does not exist. Make sure that you have the correct URL and that the file exists."

"Advance warning" of the "distance warning (dangerous distance)" - warning that you're too close to the car in front came on yesterday, the audio bit is more of a higher pitched, whistle type of bleeping(?). I admonished the driver and informed her VW had notified Interpol, it'll be another offence to be taken into consideration.

Newbie here. Bought this a couple of months ago. Had a few things changed. Tints,fins,gloss black rims,had a custom badge made,de-badged. Still a few things to change but slowly. Love the car and the drive.

Okay, thank you!