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Rotate the wheel so that the valve is at the top of the wheel. Now put a small amount of PlusGas on the edge of the cap and it will work its way down into the corrosion. After 15/20 minutes have another go. I personally wouldn't be happy about the valve after you'd got the cap off and would be saving up for a new valve at the tyre fitters.

+1 - This 👆 Or a little smear of Vaseline on the threads as it can be a bit ‘cleaner’. I also remove mine towards the end of October and put the plastic ones back on until after the frosts/gritting has stopped again.

Pretty sure MIB1 don't support CarPlay/AA regardless of software version. @pab567 or @varooom might be able to help with the update/conversion

These r not standard or upgrade for Superb, let alone any other Skoda models, hence it's not right to put the details on that post. It's something that I made up myself. I bought slim 2.7mm LED strips from AliExpress, cut them into 12mm length, soldered the wiring & plugs, then stuck them to a grove inside the door pocket, along the top edge. I spliced into the door warning lights for power. It involves removing the door cards, so u can drill a tiny 3mm hole in the corner of the door pocket.

Just thought I would share my opinions, after the first month, of my Fabia MkIV SE Comfort 1.0 TSI 110PS DSG. The main reason for a share is having just returned from its first real test, a weekend trip to Scotland and back visiting family. My first few weeks have been just tootling around town with only a couple of slightly longer journeys but never enough to properly get things tested out. It has been more like a period of feeling my way around the car and getting used to the different elements. This weekend, however, has been a really good test. 260 mile round trip between home (just south of Newcastle) and Edinburgh. Tyne Tunnel / A19 / A1 all the way giving a decent combination of 60 and 70 mph roads under varying conditions. Outward journey early Saturday morning saw pretty uncomfortable rainy weather the majority of the way there with not too bad traffic conditions and a full load. Quite impressed by 52 MPG on the trip computer. I know there is always comment about the inaccuracies of these things but, to my mind, it gives a general guide and if that is all that is used it is always compared to its own previous readings, so suits me. The return journey early this morning had a slightly lighter load and not so much bad weather but had a couple of lengthy sections stuck at 50 behind HGV traffic. This really seemed to push the economy giving me a very healthy 57.6 MPG. I also noticed quite a number of decent stretches of 'coasting' which would have helped this figure, I guess. The real bonus features I found were with the actual drive quality. That wee 1.0 engine just purred along and never felt under-powered. Combined with the silky smoothness of the DSG gearbox and the general suspension, road noise level and overall comfort of the ride made this car a joy to drive. Even my good lady wife was happy and she hates travelling. She has always been extremely prone to travel sickness, which was one of the reasons for going to the DSG box, but this trip had her rather happy we had made this choice! Overall I felt that this small car felt like it was bigger, more powerful and more 'upmarket' than it should. One month and 600 miles in and I'm a happy Fabia-ist.

Please excuse my computer illiteracy 😂 My car journey started in the 80's and i still can't keep one for more than a year ! Is there a cure ? Currently drive a 10 year old diesel merc which i've found to be so fragile with electronic faults. So, i'm rejoining the vw audi group and i'm looking for an octavia. I'm looking forward to researching the model and sharing my experiences. Thank you.

There never was a requirement just their recommendation in the UK. There are threads in about every section since this change came about in July. It does not mean everyone with a keeper will not have a Cam Belt and tensioner replaced if they think it needs doing.

Once they’re off it’s black plastic all the way!

It might have already been replaced and you do not just replace willy nilly. So a service / maintenance history is important. If noisy maybe. If all is well then all is well.

Parts arrived and were super easy to mount. The foam stopper just had double sided tape and sits very securely. I couldn't find a cover for the entire battery on skoda-parts.com, but at least bought the missing cover for the negative terminal. Thanks for the help everyone, much obliged!

It invalidates the manufacturers warranty, just like it says in the Warranty. Non Factory approved Software or Hardware.

Towing a 1.4 tonne caravan, I've gone 400 km between active regens if VAG-DPF is to be believed. In normal driving (mix of urban and motorway) it goes 150-200 km between active regens. Ten minutes and it's done.

If you want your brakes to last then:- Remove, clean, relubricate and refit yearly in the autumn. My 2016 Fabia III is at 75K miles and brakes are just over half worn with no lamination on the disks. Thanks. AG Falco

Pretty accurate methinks, when the belt snaps the engine self destructs and most of the vehicles are scrapped due to the high repair costs, the belts lasted the entire life of the vehicles.

Mine became bad when Imoved to my present location because the journeys were long enough to start a regen but not long enough to complete it, when one was interrupted it would restart again the next day within a couple of miles, well before the oil temperature was at the threshold. I either did an unecessary journey extension to allow it to complete or put up with it constantly retrying, my fuel consumption went way up but thankfully the oil was not yet getting diluted. I had had enough so I paid for the emissions fix to be rolled back, in the 18 months and probably 25K miles since I have only heard the fans running twice at journeys end.

Update - Although the OS bulb tests ok with circuit tester it looked a bit heat damaged around the metal base, so swapped with new bulb and the high beam now goes on and stays on. I ordered a new pair so will swap both out together. I've never known a car do that before - shut of the remaining bulb! Weird. Thanks fellas Wurze

It's in the map files those segments of road which have a set of flags that can be toggled on and off are not implemented in the mib2 standard map files after V12 for Inrix as TomTom cartography files that are used didn't get it implemented. Guess whoever prepares the files for mib2 standard (it's a commercial company) streamlined their systems to just import the traffic master files. V12 were based on HereMaps and included the flags for Inrix. Pcbbc described it in the thread. Why the Ozzie solution also uses V12 for that reason. Pcbbc who produced those two files short cuts the need for mib2 standard tool kit which the Ozzies used in their solution which was got working in the UK. The toolkit approach washed the files through the system whilst those two sets has the washing done for you. Clever guys on the thread.

After almost 3 months of no problems with Infotainment, i had last week restarts by restarts. Guess i will have to call dealer again and to search for a new solution. Fix was: Remove USB, turn car off and turn back on. After that everything was back to normal.

Fabia 1.4 tdi would comfortably do an indicated 85 mpg on a run, more like 60 mpg round town and a 75 mpg average. Even then it works out about 9 pence per mile plus servicing cost at least double than EV. Fuelling costs about four times for the ICE compared to the EV.

@Mjanesuk seems you have the 'classic' SEL FE issues! The key fob battery is what it is. Batteries on both need changing, there is another thread on here with extensive comment. IIRC seems it's more time based than battery level based, and both keys need doing even if one is hardly ever used. As for the other three, yep, been there. There is a fix available, get to a good Škoda dealer to get it done. The car, as it stands, is non-compliant with UK regulations 'cos it can't display KPH so even if it is out of warranty they should fix it. The KPH/MPH fix on mine also sorted the ACC problem. A tip for the ACC problem, as soon as you notice it start to slow down, just tap the throttle pedal - it over-rides the 'no undertaking' part of it.

What will be will be. Time to look back on things in a decade.

A member has an Octavia with this engine / DSG. @djorouscould maybe say how it is. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/516512-how-to-find-out-the-what-is-my-gearbox-model-octavia

Yes, that's how i think it works.

Correction inline:

The solenoid has three ports? That doesn't look right according to this parts diagram. Or this photo of the assembled intake manifold (06J133201BH). Is this a replacement manifold with the solenoid supplied on it or was it originally on the car? Is it genuine skoda or vw? What is the part number on the actual solenoid? 037906283C 037906283C

Exactly, I've never seen or heard of a genuine ECU failure, it's a euphemism in the motor trade for " we don't know what's wrong with it, but if you'll pay this ridiculous bill we'll pay a guy we know who can fix it and we'll keep the change".

5E0035045D is MIB1 unit, MIB1 units do NOT support CarPlay neither Android Auto. You need to replace glove box unit with MIB2 - either Bolero, Amundsen or Columbus.

The radiator fan switch is OK? Connections are tight? Coolants sensors cables and pins checked? I had a problem in the past with mine. https://imgur.com/f1OlmZj https://imgur.com/IfK1GYb Coolant sensor ''base'' is clear from detritus? Put your finger inside,check and with a piece of cloth clear the whole area, in the past some powder from a previous additive was causing the dashboard gauge to show false indications.

@Danoid - here u go.... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204100212481?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=52kk8DS-SF2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=lD_jGR-4Tj6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

What are validated ET values for 8.5J x 19 rims? According to the calculator if I would want to keep the same distance from the suspension as with 8J x 19 ET44, the recommended ET for 8.5Jx19 would be ET38. How much lower ET values can I go without sacrificing anything and being inside law restrictions?

hey hey. the usb cable length was 1.2m - Mcdodo USB Type-C data, charging cable. with the 12v USB socket, yes it sits fairly flush. it needs to b if u intend to keep the console closed. u also need a low profile usb head (end connector), which is why i got a 90 degree version of the usb cable. i'll have to find the link to the 12v usb socket and share it with u. i got it from eBay.

Surely the refurbishment company will fit the tyres - that will save you paying twice also. If not, make sure any tyre show you go to is using a contactless tyre machine, surprisingly costco near me is the go to as they have brand new contactless machines and I was very impressed. So possibly worth considering. also take photos before hand so you can point out any new damages.

Could always wait a few minutes?

1896 fixed it for me. But since then I've had a fix (no idea what number) to cure a a problem with the 12v battery going completely flat over night (twice) Having fixed that I've now got a problem with the infotainment system rebooting occasionally. The mapping sw is 22.4 and I've tried and failed to do the upgrade to the 23 release. good luck with the garage.

It's manual.

Hi Wurze, I have seen more than a few halogen bulbs fail where the filament breaks, but temporarily 'welds' itself back together while flopping around. AFAIK, the glove compartment, trunk and similar lamps are not monitored by the system - as they are not safety related.

All the Zoes, 22, 40 and 50 kwh battery can be a great buy and buying the right one for ones longest journeys ie 80 mile, 160 mile or 200 mile is the biggest choice issue. As Jimmy Carter, the ex US president, and his government administration, what they know during the fuel crisis of the early-mid 1970s, was that cars, and this would mean purely ICE cars of course. Do incredibly better fuel consumption around 55 mph (or at least 60-ish and under) than they do at around the 70 mph cruising speed. this was a matter of national economic stability as the US had to decreases its fuel usage so it really on used oil drilled in the US, land and coastal waters, and not buy from the Middle East hence the introduction of the "Double Nickel" ie the 55 mph speed limit. Of course people drove at up to 60 mph with the tolerance of speed measuring and law enforcement prosecution and the US imported a whole lot less oil from those countries trying to excerpt economic muscle. They succeeded. The Zoe can easily get well above 4 miles per kWh if the temperature of above 10 C and at least that shown above even when it is cold ie zero degrees zero or thereabout but one may need to back off to 60-65 indicated to get that as the aero drag coefficient is more like 0.3 is slightly above that rather than the TESLA close to 0.2.

Yep, showing 9 pence per kWh instead of 9.5 p per kWh for the 4 hour cheaper time 0030 to 0430, hope they keep it that or less through winter and in to next year. Assuming 90% charging efficiency that would be 9.9/ 4 miles per kWH so just under 2.5 p per kWh. Actually managed 4.5 miles per kWh going down to South Wales, not slow but not at the limit, and maybe above on the speedo occasionally, but down to just over 4 miles per kWh coming back to Worcester and arrived home with 25% after the 160 mile round trip with about 30 miles in to Newport to go with daughter to Halfords to get a bunch of European driving items. Did pop in to the new Osprey bank of chargers just off the motorway at Maygor between Newport Gwent and the Severn bridges and plugged in to one of those chargers just to see it works OK and lob in some of my free Electroverse credit in to the Zoe. Forgot that at already 65% SOC the charge rate would only be 30 kW but hey ho. Only put in 2,5 kW ie ten miles worth, cost about £1.60, still in credit with Electoverse. Subway there but had just used one in Newport. As always very happy with Octopus rates and all aspects of their business and be interesting to see what happens now that they have bought lost of customers over from Shell for home electricity and Broadband making them the second biggest supplier in the UK now after Centrica ie BG. Rock on Greg.

Latest project completed on Gandalf - added ambient lighting to the inside of the door pockets, so I can actually see wat stuff is in there. Wiring is piggy backed off the door warning light, so it turns on and off with the door open/close. All 4 door pockets now have ambient lighting 😁

Yeah it’s lost in translation. Thanks for the tip, I enabled it using the app on OBDEleven. It actually allows access to the full lights menu while driving (auto, dipped, sidelights (DRL only), and OFF) - the same as you get when stationary, and does not limit it when driving as is the standard case (Auto + Dipped), the full menu remains useable. Great mod, allows full driver control of the lights with no nonsense.

It sounds like the car has been left in 'In transit mode' and not reset at the PDI. Obviously going along the road you can get the accelerator to the floor and have the cars full RPM without kicking down or dropping gears. Well you should be able to. There will not be another car in that dealership that does 2,000 or 2,5000 rpm. Other than when stationary.

Fingers crossed I will have the funds next week having just received a call from EST to finalize the funding, good job as well as the dealer was on the phone sound chasing me today. Cross your fingers and toes for me please.😁

Unless you're going to fit a big brake kit, the 16" full-size spare is probably the best option, IMO.

DQ200 on this car.

@djorous message me with your VIN and I may be able to find out something for you.

There is likely no need to use the trip at all. If your car is like mine, just go into the vehicle parameters . You should easily find fuel consumption figures. There are 3 pages to scroll between, long term consumption, consumption since start and consumption since refuel. The latter page auto zeros when you fill up.

It sounds like the classic water pump shroud seizing. you’ll need a timing belt and water pump replacing if it found to be that. But the symptoms you describe all match up. the reason it happens under load is the engine is fairly good at self regulating it’s own temperature without any flow needed at low load and revs, whereas at higher loads it needs the water pump to assist with moving the coolant a bit faster to cool the engine a bit. There is a metal sleeve over the water pump that moves up and down to regulate coolant flow and this seizes in the open or (mainly) closed position also - don’t open the coolant cap on a hot car!!! You risk 100+ degree water exploding out the reservoir all over you.

Water pump impellor shroud sticking. For temporary relief remove the electrical connector when the engine is at normal operating temperature and not overheating, that is to say when it is behaving, you could do it later after the engine has cooled as long as it was behaving correctly on the previous run and you dont turn on the ignition again until after the connector is removed. You could just leave it like that and it will be fine, in winter you will notice a slightly increased warm up time and a little longer for hot air to come from the heater, many fit a water pump without the shroud which gives the same effect. Rest assured it is nothing to do with the towbar fitment.