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Before the road closed sign went up on Monday i drove though the 1 meter high at the deepest point 20 foot long flooded bit at Queenswell Road Forfar in the MINI electric. (Next to Fiskens Kia Garage and the park.) The Posty in the Van coming the other way watched and decided no. Usually i am in a lifted 4x4 when doing this. It was a few minutes later that i noticed the speedo was not working and i though WTF, must of soaked a sensor or dislodged a plug. Parked for 15 minutes and restarted and it was working. I have waded lots of flooded bit of roads in the Corsa Electric as i got caught on Perthshire roads where a diversion can be quite long, also i have been through a few fords. (crossing not cars.) Not big or clever, but just being honest,

Throttle Controllers..... phwoahhhh!!!! Fitted an Ultimate9 EVC Throttle Controller EVC201L. Combined with the Stage 1 tune, it's like an Energizer bunny!!! Nice and easy to install too.

Tesla model 3 in the UK & driving through 18-24inches of water...car ok. I found the link via a thread on a Tesla forum, owner reported no problems with the car even months later...Re the news article I posted earlier...I reckon the car is faulty & the Dealer is just using the excuse of "yellow weather warning" to not have to cough up for a new battery!

A little close for comfort!

they probably do have them, but those markers can give false readings & lets say that water did get in, yet the battery pack was never submerged??.. Lets say that what the customer states is true, as there is no other evidence to prove otherwise that we can see ATM....So basically puddles & wet roads, in heavy rain, no "fording", & the water depth was never more than a couple of inches at the deepest....then the battery pack has had a manufacturer failure on its waterproofing. Yes the customer "could" be lying, & you should be able to pull the drive data logs for the car in the previous 24hrs & overlay the route onto the google maps with known flooding on it, then you can tell "if" the car "forded". The fact that the dealer is basically saying "yellow weather warning was given your tough ****"....thats really bad & means the car is not fit for purpose!...I wonder how many other times when the car has actually failed & that same excuse will be used!!....I see court cases & the consumer act being invoked!...I've driven my petrol car down roads with a yellow weather warning & never had any problems..& that includes flooded roads..the most I did was get water in the low level front fog lights!...

These are what I have fitted to my Superb (MK3 Estate non-DCC non-sportline).

Probably worth posting an autoscan from VCDS along with an adaptation map from 09 👍

Your opinion has been progressively devalued by your legion rambling postings to the point that for me at least it is worthless. You asked me what I based my opinion on despite the fact it could not have been more clear, nonetheless la politesse required me to explain once again. I really am not in the slightest bit interested in your resultant rambling pontifications like: Again, the battery certainly should be, if not then we are sleepwalking into some pretty murky waters indeed and will cause major problems then if when it rains that people will be unable to drive their electric vehicles for fear of getting water in the batteries and then facing major expensive repair bills, and as mentioned earlier, how about the emergency services also not being able to respond for fear of getting stranded and or massive repairs costs. Insurance premiums will skyrocket as a result. and I will ignore your further questions of me.

EV are supposed to be able to drive through deeper water due to not needing to "breath" I think it's a manufacturing fault with the battery weather proofing. Tesla are trying to get away with it by blaming weather warning, perhaps due to no other water ingress faults been reported on that batch, so they decided it was user fault. They make extensive use of AI to spot patterns on their back-end. For example, up coming car software update will use previous data to predict supercharger availability and wait times: https://www.notateslaapp.com/news/1645/tesla-update-2023-38-will-predict-supercharger-availability-and-wait-times

Wow, that was brave, I would not dream of trying that in my diesel as I'm sure water would get into the engine at that depth, but I do take your point, that an electric car should be capable of going through floodwater up to at least the bottom of the doors, anything higher, no.

@jobianA software / engine management update but no Flow Device fitted like with 1.6 TDI,s. Actually some 1.2 TDI,s went to get it and it was not done. If yours was then maybe it was put to a remapper and rolled back. Happy days, enjoy.

Interesting, how did you arrive at your conclusion that the owner knew that he was responsible for the damage? He says that he can't remember any deep puddles on the way there, but even if there was a few deep puddles, the car should be more than capable of handling such water depth anyway when being driven. If the car was left standing in water and the battery was submerged for an extended period then I could accept it, but then, the car itself should be wet inside as well? Maybe he was thinking, when he said that was expecting a bill was because the car's warranty had expired and something had become broken? I don't know for sure, as indeed, none of us do, that the battery had been submerged, but even then, I would think that it's not unreasonable to expect that the battery should be properly sealed to prevent water ingress anyway? Seeing as the batteries are mounted low down, that surely is a negative for electric propulsion if the weather starts to rain like we get from time to time, really heavy, that you will have to seek out high ground and sit it out or even stay overnight etc, in case there are deep puddles on your route? How are the emergency services also going to cope responding to 999 calls in the future if puddles that are currently OK with ICE vehicles to drive through in perfect safety, without hydro-locking their engines? It sounds more like Tesla, are doing what many companies do, and that is trying to see how much they can get away with, which seems to be a common theme today.

The key word is "submerged" and not water ingress. Owner drives through flood and vehicle stops, breakdown services called out, large repair bill, "how can the weather be my fault?" 🤔 You could get the same abdication of responsibility for their own acts from a driver of a diesel vehicle that had hydro-locked but it would not be seized on by the media. Reports breakdown at 10pm, vehicle collected within 3 hours and the owner made more than one complaint about lack of service the following day. not the best way to get good service but indicative of the aggressive behaviour of someone hiding the facts. He evens says that he expected to get a bill of £500 to £1000 so knows he is responsable for the damage.

That's bad customer service from Tesla was my first reaction. At the same time, there were some serious flooding from other news I've seen. But regardless of weather, batteries should not suffer from water ingress unless properly flooded for a long time. Given the owner's recount in the article, I'd expect it to be covered under warranty. I wonder if there's anything like early iPhones, where there is a submerged marker to invalidate warranties.

It might be these two Bilstein part numbers, as I tried two different models of Superb MK2 and one model of Passat B8, and these were the only Bilstein B6 (non-DCC) that came up on autodoc. So I think there's a very good chance it's these. You could contact Bilstein and ask them for confirmation that these are correct for your vehicle. Superb MK3 front shock absorbers (standard ride height) (non-DCC) Bilstein B6 35-229872 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7522722 Superb MK3 rear shock absorbers (standard ride height) (non-DCC) Bilstein B6 24-229890 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bilstein/7543304

How many kms have you driven since you bought it? Have you had a sustained drive for more than 30 mins at working temp > 100km/h? If not try that.

We were a little later getting out tonight........

Yeah. Gen 3s do run hot. You may find a vw502.00 5w40 oil may use a little less than Long life 3 5w30 oils. I'd say my golf r with an ea888 gen 3 uses about 1 litre per 5000 miles. It's done that since I got it at 55k miles now at 76k. You could also replace the fine oil separator, that may help. So long as it is not worsening I wouldn't worry too much. Try a vw502.00 oil as well. Some usage is certainly not unheard of. It does also depend as @Rootedsays, how correctly filled it was following service as well as to determine the top up volume. If slightly underfilled that would be increasing your view of recorded consumption...

Agreed, I use mine more as a comparator. Waiting for the modules to shut down will not work unless you have fooled the bonnet open sensor, mine no longer works so one less problem 👍 However I have found that even doing that and waiting the test results are significantly lower than when I disconnect the battery terminal, the alarm and central locking reciever modules are always active, their resistance must throw the test measurement.

See if you have firmware 1941 onboard, if not get that update too. NB: If you're on a very early firmware & hardware setup you may need to have those done.

Had similar issues. It's probably the release button on the boot itself that is broken. Microswitch failure is common. Only way to fix it is to pay for a new boot release IIRC.

The simple answer is everything should be properly coded and not bypassed, it is not just parking sensors, if have any of reverse camera, ACC, blind spot monitors etc then they can all be affected. There is no turn off switch so has to be coded to react differently when it detects a trailer is plugged in. The days when cars had negligible safety systems and could just fit simple wiring are long gone

There is a software update available for the climate sync issue. I've had it applied to my car. I did ask the dealer to provide details of the fix so I could let people know on this forum. However, they told they were not allowed to disclose details of the update applied. But if you goto your dealer they should be able to find the relevant update.

Hello Alin, is there any sign of the engine temperature rising above normal in city traffic?

Hi, thanks for that it did as in the video so I will see in the morning if it’s still cold when I get to work on my feet .

You should remove whatever you need to gain adequate access, probably both the items you mention. I think you might benefit from using a mirror and a torch because it will still be hidden under the thermostat housing unless you remove the housing itself. You'll need to drain the coolant into a clean washing up bowl so you can pour it back in again. As @J.R.says there is a plastic C clip holding the sensor in place but you don't have to remove the plug itself until the sensor is swinging freely from the lead which will make it much easier to see how to remove the plug and will also stop you dropping it somewhere inaccessible.

Missing a character, a 0 as the third one - I'd expect 5Q0511115AF

Another vote for the Alpin 6. A spare set of alloys - and somewhere to store them - and swapping them twice a year was my answer. If they were my only wheels I'd use the Cross Climates. The swapping is not too onerous - Takes me just over an hour using a decent jack. Side benefit of being able to have a really good look at the brakes. Cleaning the ones which have come off takes me longer. I almost bought steel wheels but found a set of alloys at the right price. Don't forget 16s will fit, too.

You could try this first

Part number looks to be 5E0941700H. Not that it's much cheaper online: - https://www.cars-equipment.com/en/shop/fog-lights-3/oem-5e0941700h-fog-light-octavia-3/ - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e0941700h-fog-lamp-right-rs-skoda-31619.html

Thanks guys, very useful info. If I can get a good deal on a 2 year old PHEV I may pull the trigger on it. Shame cars with a panoramic roof, memory seats and reversing camera are like unicorns!

The airbag indicator is not part of the stereo, it's just attached to the facia, so you have to disconnect it if you remove the facia.

Hi everyone, I'm curious to know what happened afterwards for you. I discovered the same issue on the my 2018 Skoda Octavia Combi at ~ 86000 kms. I retightened the screws and went to Skoda for a check. Result was a 1500 euros quote to replace the belt and the Camshaft shifter. They advised to do it somewhere in the coming months, but did not seem to push for an immediate action. Screws are tight now and the problem is gone. Did you only tighten the screws ? Did you experience any problems afterwards ? There does not seem to be damage done on any part in the area. Of course, Skoda does recognise any fault in this problem ...

But you are making assumptions based on what? Owner does not say he drove through floods that were deep, but even if they were deep, he was able to drive onto his destination OK, so is it not reasonable to think that everything was OK and that something happened while he was enjoying his meal. ICE vehicles frequently fail while they are not being driven, and as I said, assuming the car's normal warranty had expired (not actually knowing the age of the car) that the owner would therefore automatically expect some form of a bill, depending on which part has failed. Tesla warranties are also very complicated and differant aspects of the car attract different warranty periods. This is especially true if the car was second-hand when purchased, when most parts like drive train and battery are 4 years or 50,000 miles and the touch screen controls and media, covered for 2 years or 25,000 miles. Vehicle Warranty | Tesla Support Again, the battery certainly should be, if not then we are sleepwalking into some pretty murky waters indeed and will cause major problems then if when it rains that people will be unable to drive their electric vehicles for fear of getting water in the batteries and then facing major expensive repair bills, and as mentioned earlier, how about the emergency services also not being able to respond for fear of getting stranded and or massive repairs costs. Insurance premiums will skyrocket as a result.

I understand why the rear proximity sensors are disabled when the bike rack is fitted. I don't understand why the front is also disabled. Isn't the automatic bit of the cruise control a radar function? Sounds like a coding issue, take it back to the dealer who installed the tow bar. tom

When I researched it, the performance once the batteries were drained in hybrids looked pathetic - and it didn't take long to drain them. If you plan on keeping the car then there is also the cost of replacement batteries when they wear out (there is a limited number of charge/discharge cycles in them). I think battery cars are not the way to go for the carbon conscious, I am looking towards the synthetic fuels being developed and am keeping to the ICE.

Engine: 2.0 tsi Type: VRS estate 2014 Mileage:144,000 Camelot changed X times - chain Manual or Auto- manual Gearbox oil changed X times - none Any other major work done? - stage 1 revo at 70k, original clutch. No major work, oil change every 5k.

@chris666 thanks for reporting back But are you sure you didn't just do a key (remote) synchronization as in the first part of AGFalco's post on 5th October, as detailed in the Owner's Manual? From 2017/11 Owner's Manual. - If (the VW) "emergency" unlocking the driver's door using the key blade as soon as the driver's door is opened the alarm goes off.

The OE P7s were cracking badly on the tread edge at 38k (and annoyingly, all 4 still had 3mm all over) so changed them for new Conti All Season. Only covered 4K but are much quieter which is great.

Bargain for someone The seats are clean and no wear from what I can see on bolsters

G

Think you can change the route colour on Waze if you use that

They messaged me that everything is done 1.disc holes 6,4x9mm bored to 9mm 2. Custom centar hat from 6082 alu is done according to AP blueprint 3. AP racing H bobins ste shortened to be shorter 0.2mm from disc hole thickness. Tomorrow Will pick them up a send them for balancing before eloxation. Pics to come

the thing to avoid os leaving your car at 100%, that's what sresses the battery and causes faster degradation. I'm at 27K miles and not seen any noricabel drop off in range

Welcome. If you don't want to see it modified and smashed up, I'd look for an enthusiast. You can sell on here if you're a FREEDOM member. Out of interest. What's the SE number on the seat?

As I’ve said before, I am in Essex BUT I live in very rural Essex where the nearest gritted road is approx 2 miles from my house. Yes, Essex doesn’t get the snow that say Scotland gets BUT snow is snow and ice is ice and we get our fair share. I’ve just never felt the need to go to the trouble of swapping my wheels/tyres for a handful (if that) of days each winter. Not knocking those who do, just saying it’s not for me.

Yesterday I showed this to a reception guy in the workshop. Guess what his reaction was? He saw such thing for the first time and was asking me where did I get it

It was the fuse the 30 amp fuse that blown

Yes, one can check his own service digital record for free. I can't see how to do that on the MySkoda App (mobile version), but it works with the web-based Skoda-Connect interface. Once you login to your account, go to the car's Dashboard where you can see car status (locked/unlocked), mileage etc. and you'll also see a section called "Digital Certificate". Click on that and you'll get the option of generating a new Certificate and also to have a look at the existing Certificates. I have two in my list: one generated soon after I got the car (and found out I had this option), and the second one after the dealership visit this summer for the 1941 SW update (as shown by the first attached screenshot).