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I did NOT spec Lane assist when I ordered my MK7 Golf in 2014yr....(it was a factory option extra) as I knew then what a piece of #**# it would be due to its limitations... In late 2022yr I got a MK8 Golf as a courtesy car....with all the stupid "no buttons" full haptic panel/steering wheel etc., etc.....Doing driving with multiple stops in & out of different stores in & around the Inverness area (just doing normal shopping)..I got tired of having to turn OFF all the stupid stuff every time I got back into the car & started it up!.... Lane assist, on the main "A" (haha) A939 Grantown road was a #***ing joke with Lane assist...it had to be OFF...as it was like having a wrestling session with the wheel at every corner!.. I tested Lane Assist "vision" on the roads near me as there are various new & faded sections....on new black tarmac, with new white lines, there is high contrast & I couldn't get within 3ft of the white lines before it went off!!Conversely sun bleached/faded old tarmac & old lines...low contrast & I could drive ontop of the lines before it went off!!... Obviously it'll be totally useless up here with our snow etc..which is why they have to rely on highly accurate GPS & other systems for the "automated driving" on these newer cars.. Encouraging the "driver" to toss their brain out the window just means that when the car can't cope & flashes up "please take over" on the dash, the human behind the wheel will no longer have any idea what to do!...

I've had it on a few cars and currently have it available now, but I don't use it. If I sat in one lane all day, on a motorway, then perhaps it would be of some use to me, but swapping lanes constantly and not always needing to use indicators means you keep getting a 'surprise' when the car fights back. I indicate when pulling from lane 1 to 2, or 2 to 3 for instance, but if I clear the car I am overtaking and there is nothing else around me, I will pull back into the correct lane without indicating. It's the way I was taught and can't seem to unlearn it. There is some merit in this approach though, as you have to make sure everything is safe and clear before you pull back in, rather than a reflex, indicate and move (not that any Briskodian would be so crass of course). Also, sometimes late at night you may find large amounts of standing water or other hazard on the motorway and move quickly to avoid them, indicating not being necessary as no other fool is daft enough to be driving on a horrendous winters night at 3 in the morning and of course the car fights back as you cross the lines Disclaimer: the above comments don't apply to the BMWs I have owned, for obvious reasons...

OK thanks to all who have replied will give me something to think about.

Look at the fuse box behind the glove compartment.. The fuse for the lighter circuits (can't remember the number). You'll see this fuse holder position is slightly different than the nearby ones, there is a 2nd position where you can move it halfway down. The lower position will make the sockets switched (terminal 15), the upper position is always on (terminal 30). In some markets, the lower position won't have the metal contacts in there. Here in AU the contacts weren't there. It's simple to buy the contact (I think it was part number 927839 but I'm not totally sure on this) and enable the lower position. I just ran a wire at the rear of the fuse box from an upper fuse on T15 down to that lower position contact and now I can change it as desired from T15 to T30. Sorry this is all vague, I didn't document or take any pictures of this process. I recall it was a pain working in the tight space behind the glove box. TLDR: Look and see if your fuse box already has the extra contact in the lower position for the lighter socket and if so it will be easy.

I asked after him and another (then) absent poster at the time (I was concerned it might be medical problems as he had mentioned dialysis) and Root suggested that a new user was the same person so unlike the other he was not absent at all. The profile, location and above all the frequent public blocking of other contributors confirmed to me that Root was correct.

I don't know if I have understood what you are asking ,however my experience using the wipers is as follows , If i leave the wiper arm at zero and push down once on the arm the wipers sweep once and the passenger side arm rests out of sight. If I leave the wiper arm in position 1 (int rain wipe) and the rain triggers a wipe the wipers finish with the passenger side wiper showing about 2-3 inch showing on the windscreen. My car has original windscreen and to the best of my knowledge has always behaved like this and has never been adjusted therefore as it left the factory. If i fancy driving without seeing the stationary passenger wiper visable I simply push the wiper arm to zero and it disappears when the sweep has finished. Hope the above makes sense?

Car was a taxi and subject to 2 tests per year. After asking the wonderful officers of the law, as king as the original test is within the valid dates and the car didn't fail on anything 'dangerous', I can still use it. On the DVLA site, the car is still tested until Feb 6th. I thought a fail was a fail but there are, seemingly, other circumstances. If it had failed on welding, brakes, steering or similar, it would be a different matter (their words, not mine). Currently not using the car as of such, either, just trying to sort this problem. I have a few to choose from....luckily.

I’ve got a 1.2 DSG (2017) and just passed 50,000 miles. My MPG from new is 44.45 calculated on a brim-fill-to-brim-full basis. MPG is dependent on how you drive (obviously) and weather conditions. Worse was 36.2 on an emergency high speed motorway trip to Cornwall from N Yorkshire against a howling head wind gale, best was 48.2 on a leisurely drive to Suffolk on A and B roads with max 60 MPH restrictions. Generally you should expect about 42-44 MPG on day to day motoring depending on how you drive and traffic conditions. Incidentally I use E5 petrol, which is more expensive than E10, but I get better MPG which more than balances the extra cost. I’ve had 3 DSG’s and never had any problems with any of them. They have certainly improved since the first ones and are now much smoother and silky, I assume continuous development has ironed out the early problems. DSG’s are a bit different to drive than traditional torque converter autos but it is something you very quickly get used to.

I take the (IIRC self-submitted) tyre label markings with a god measure of salt. When the tyre labelling first started the Yoko a-drives got lower scores than a couple of other tyres I used on the same car but in reality the Yoko a-drives used on the car were far better than the marking and far better than the other tyres I tried on the same car which had higher label scores. Perhaps the make up of the Yoko a-drives had changed and were not as good by the time the tyre labelling came into force, I don't know as very unfortunately for me they stopped doing the a-drives in the tyre size I needed. I knew the a-drives were good when I used them on the car but didn't realise how good until I used the other tyres (with higher label scores). I am like you I accept guides but only as guides and have enough driving experience to know the differences that suit me and my style of driving to any particular car. As I put I have no experience of the Yoko A539 let alone what might be the latest version of it, the F for fuel economy might suggest grip and wet grip C suggest they're better in the dry - but I have no real idea. IIRC I took Yokos off my then brand new MX-5 Mk2 1.6 because they gripped too well in the dry (I always take it easier in the wet anyway and you'd certainly want to in a (rear-wheel drive) Mk1 and Mk2 MX-5 (I've no idea about later models) so I changed them despite the loads of tread left on the set of four (I used to be able to afford such things then as the cars needed to be fun) to tyres with very good wet grip and not as good as the Yokos dry grip (a Rainex model IIRC). I also had steel wheels on that car, the salesman said it was the only MX-5 on steel wheels he'd even seen leave or come into the Dealership.

Setting the IDE09731-ENG154511-Int. light: 2nd generation-Ambiente_Fahrprofil_Individual to 4 did solve my problem, the comfort mode ambient ligth works now. Thanks for the help!

I have traded in my Octavia for a December 2022 Karoq SE Drive today and I have a couple of questions please. The aero wheel trims on the Karoq don't look that good to me and I am thinking of replacing them with those plastic covers that fit over the wheel nuts and the Skoda plastic centre caps for the wheels. I've seen on the Fabia forum that some owners have done this on their cars. Does anyone know the part numbers for the wheel nut covers and the centre caps please and where is the best place to get them ? a Skoda dealer. I will transfer my dash cam from the Octavia to the Karoq. It has a backup battery which is presently hard wired to the fusebox (I think to the heated rear screen or maybe rear wiper feed but not sure). It charges only when the ignition is on. Which is the best fuse to piggy back off in the Karoq please? Also where is the fusebox and how do I get at it? Many thanks.

Turn the esc off and it revs all the way up.

The sensible answer is don't even think about it. If you can't see the road under the surface of the water, then unless you're either in a high 4x4 (even then I still probably wouldn't even consider it as, if you do go into it, you don't know if the road surface is there) the road surface could have been washed away or sunk, leaving a deep (sink)hole which would take you down or if you get stuck, you'll be getting a very hefty bill for recovery and any possible damage to the electrics & engine. There's a reasonable probability that your insurance company will decline any claim as, it's down to your own negligence. Why on earth drivers think it's a good idea to enter flood water is beyond me, I was taught by my instructor don't for the reasons listed above. Also it doesn't take a lot of water to lift & shift a car and carry it away!

From the main page when not logged in it took two clicks to find this.

Miriam & Cooper @ Bo'ness

Ariel Atom @ Bo'ness. (I used to do the odd car shoot a few years ago in between model, portrait & wedding shoots.)

From your garage fault screen photo it does appear your sounder or wiring to it is faulty. I'd expect you'd find the output test also produces no audible response. These may help in your investigation.

Millions have never been in for the Takata air Bag Racall and that is from cars back as far as from 2001. Lots of tardy manufacturers with the Recalls and VW Group probably among the worst. Seemingly only 2012-2018 with Skoda,s and some. So the RECALL now on Mk4 Fabia and recent manufactured cars must be another Air Bag potential fault.

That price was at a Skoda garage who had a fixed price deal in Oct 2022.

without the sub, no foundation. You also need to overcome the road noise, so the order of magnitude more power for bass becomes important. Imaging gets better with the sub, too. Haven't heard Canton, don't imagine it can get as effortless as my system. Staging in my car is pretty damned good, thanks, both in terms of width and depth. But then I'm running 8 channels of DSP and a bunch of EQ and Time Alignment to get it that way. Drops like a mofo, too, with a 10" in the boot that you *don't* need to turn up. It is possible to get excellent imaging and staging, and at low levels, too, but it requires some wizardry. Helix S6.2C, CSS SDX10 on an SD1600.1/4 ohm, SD4.100 active through MiniDSP C-DSP 6x8 for fronts. That's less than €1250 plus fitting. SDX is a 10" driver in a 28l sealed box behind the driver's seat. Drops beautifully. I tuned it in the summer at around 75dB levels, not 90+. Dayton measurement mic and AudioTool makes lots of things possible. Good test tracks include Newton Faulkner's Teardrop (try the drop at 01:45), Hotel California from Hell Freezes Over, the Tiny house concert from Ed Sheeran, the Going Dumb remix, Cody Fry's Better.. and the subbass on the Weeknd's Sacrifice.

Yes , I will go and try this option.(module 10) Will keep you posted.

There are worst things happening in the world to be concerned about right now than that. People are frequently locked out of forums through password issues and end up creating a new user ID.

The 230vrs I borrowed a while back and a Tesla m-y both fought me on straightening a roads. B roads never noticed it. 😛 Occasionally maybe on lined sides, but that might have been the kerb. #notmywheels

Spacers reduce the offset, so fitting 10mm spacers to rims that already have an ET33 offset gives an effective offset of ET23. The ET33 offset is already on the low side for the Yeti because it's a large 12mm difference to the standard ET45 offset. 215/65R16 and 235/60R16 both have just over 5.5" of sidewall height, which is quite a lot. Notice the different 70dB vs 72dB rating of the below two tyres. Yokohama Geolandar AT 215/65R16 98H (Euro label E C 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s426p148189/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_215_65_R16_98H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Yokohama Geolandar AT 235/60R16 100H (Euro label E C 72dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m62b0s425p148190/Yokohama_Tyres_Car_Yokohama_Geolandar_AT_G015_235_60_R16_100H_RPB_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_72dB

You can test it via OBD. I just tried with VCDS on my Yeti and found that if you go into Module 10 then under Output Tests you can operate the speaker. It gave me a constant tone, so not the normal beeping you get. On exiting Output Test the solid sound continues for a about another 5 seconds and then goes silent again. Also if you go into Advanced Measuring Values you can get readings off the 4 sensors. I attach an image as I reversed towards a wall.

I am not saying the following will be directly relevant to to your case just an example. I bought a pre-converted larger engine (and brakes, tyres and suspension of course) British "classic" car and it had different (oversized) carb (Holly, with Offy) and vacuum pipes off. Ran fine except at certain point of the rev range when accelerating it was like turbo lag (no turbo or supercharged fitted though). As I couldn't borrow another of the same carb off a mate of a mate he recommended I take the car to a specialist in those carbs. He had the carb for a week and could find nothing. Then luckily I was recommended to an old school rolling road tuner, he had the car running outside the rolling road shed as there was a track-toy running something in on the rollers, he spent about 10 minutes running the engine, scratching his head and having a fag and then suddenly said something pulled a vacuum hose off and shoved a big long screwdriver down it and smiled. Cut the hose to a stub, put a setscrew and small Jubilee clip on the stub to act as a temporary blanking and said "Take it for a good run boy and see 'ow it gooes". It ran marvellous. When I returned from the run and asked he said the Americans have vacuums for this that and the other on their cars, he had no idea what that one was supposed to be for but wasn't needed on a British car, he didn't do American cars. He didn't even want to take any money, he did something similar again on an unusual problem with another car of mine, spent 20 minutes on it, refused to fit the new carbs linkages parts I'd bought just in case and apologised for taking so long to remember the solution from a previous time (bent hinge pin on organ-type accelerator pedal). Un fortunately soonish after he died. A fantastic old school chap, too modest to even take a personal monetary tip let alone rip anyone off - so different from too many others I've meet in the English motor trade.

215/65R16 is normally fitted to a 6.5J rim width. If you are going to use a 7J rim, it might be better to use a 20mm wider 235/60R16 tyre size. Alcar 9922 steel rims have a specification of 6.5Jx16 ET33 which is 12mm less offset than the Yeti's normal ET45 offset. So the ET33 offset is equivalent to running the ET45 offset with 12mm spacers. Unless you want that spaced out look, ie. 24mm increase in track width, perhaps look at something within 7mm of the ET45 offset, ie. ET38 to ET45. Perhaps consider 235/60R16 fitted to the standard 7Jx16 ET45 rims. 235/60R16 has a similar outside diameter to 215/65R16 as shown in the chart below. 235/60R16 is an economical tyre size, but not quite as economical as the particularly good value 215/65R16 tyre size. Outside diameter of tyres 215/65R16 685.9mm 235/60R16 688.4mm Here's a couple of examples of 235/60R16 tyres. The Nokian Wetproof is an interesting example, due to its Aramid Sidewalls. Nokian Wetproof SUV 235/60R16 100H (Aramid Sidewalls) (Summer tyre) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Nokian/Wetproof-SUV/235-60-R16-100H-Aramid-Sidewalls/D-123531 Vredestein Quatrac 6 235/60R16 100H (All-Season tyre) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s12008p201646/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rims (from Yeti and Superb MK2) (9.35kg) https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9257 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/alcar/14750851?search=ALCAR+Rim+(9257) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=185461773082563696&rimCode=ALCAR9257

I have watched him for decades and linked / posted his videos on here for over a decade. He p15535 me off more than a little now with the over the top stuff. It has lost it's humour to me. As to the Daihatsu Pick ups, and the vans. We used to use ones for deliveries and to work on a hill for working on paths and tracks. That was about 28 years ago. ? So have people been dying because of fraudulent test results. Has the doors caved in on them when T-Boned? We used to just worry about rolling down a hillside in them and wondered how they might fare My Jimny pick-up bed was a shortened version on a Honda Acty pick up bed, the same ones as used on the Daihatsu pick-up. Very good metal.

Hi Everyone, thanks and update: First, thanks to everyone who replied. As always with Briskoda, I learned a lot more than I expected, and I was once again struck by the helpful, well-informed and friendly tone of the discussion. Second, update. I wanted to do the job myself but ran out of time, needing the car at short notice over Christmas. So instead of spending twenty-odd quid on a new regulator, I had to spend £290 😥 on getting a new alternator fitted. Bloody Norah. But now I know better for next time...assuming I ever own an IC-engined car again. Thanks once again for your input. Kind regards, scandalxk

I don’t know off the top of my head what turbo is on your engine but there’s going be more to it than whether it hasn’t got play or it spins ok. And the actual turbo itself could be fine but not be getting controlled properly due to incorrect signals from sensors elsewhere. There will be an actuator to vary boost pressure correctly either operating a wastegate or more likely variable vanes in the turbo. and this will be operated by vacuum or electrical. There will also be sensors determining how it operates. Have you had it scanned for fault codes, or tested if it is providing the correct boost pressure ? If it’s blowing black smoke then at a basic level there isn’t enough air getting in or there’s too much fuel.

You can run the dascam from one of the usb c sockets. These turn off when the igniton is off. You may find that the dashcam thinks it is plugged into a computer, so you may need a data blocking cable I got 3 usb c to usb a data blockers from Amazon.

Yes, always, piston rings don't seal well until they've some pressure behind them or some oil to stop the air getting by even in a brand new engine. The fact that all three cylinders reacted exactly the same, picking up 50 psi proves the bottom end is healthy.

Yikes! First thing - stay well clear of anything halfords sell or offer to fit. Next, your car will have the MIB3 radio so its a bit more awkward and skoda dont offer an offical retrofit for the FL superb yet!

This is really proving my point for me, EV cars only really make real sense (ignoring the emissions at this point) if you do more local journeys than you do journeys where you need to use public charge points, as opposed to home charging, especially if it is your own car. Company cars are different because you are effectively being paid to spend time at charging points.

Glorious here this afternoon - mustn't grumble given its the middle of winter 😁

The Pass of Glencoe with two out of Three Sisters on the left, November 2023. That's not sky replacement software, either. We were fortunate to have 3 concurrent days just like this: twas freezing cold out of the sun though!

^^^ @StonekeeperAppearances can deceive. They are sealed as in there are filler plugs and drain plugs and the oil can be changed in the box and in the MCU. (Some might charge to change the oil and not change the oil in the MCU) Millions had the Synthetic Oil changed to Mineral when there was a World Wide / GLOBAL recall in 2012 that excluded Europe. *Internal corrosion, fuse blowing, loss of drive, VW said roll safely to road side. Sure thing in an outside lane of a motorway with HGV,s inside you.* Not required in Europe as seemingly different weather / moisture / HUMIDITY, even from NZ where all DQ200,s got a brand new MCU. They lie so easily. In Europe it became a Service Campaign 34F7 and tens on thousands had the oil changed and a software update. Started in 2014. So as far as sealed for life, who's life, the cars or the DSG,s. and when it looks like end of life might you change the oil? Plenty vids on how to change the oil if anyone wants or needs to, and even guides in Threads / Posts on Briskoda a forum for Skoda enthusiasts.

Sounds like urs is not setup up right. The Bi-xenons on the mk3 Superb r great, if aligned/setup correctly. The SLA is great too. Here is mine in action. All I've changed is the D3S globes to Phillips XtremeVision Gen2. And another......

Some or many have the Oil changed because someone at a Dealership wrongly tells them they are due a change. Personally i might change both the oils after 8 years or 100,000 miles or so, but it should not be necessary.

No service listed but many have had them serviced. Worth looking into if wanting to keep the car longer.

I just picked this up on Saturday and drove it 450 miles from the dealer in Perth back home to Somerset. Loving it so far.

Latest addition to the Swiss Skoda family garage....

added ECE 2024 in first post

Pax vobiscum folks! 🙂 The topic is Lane Assist, which I, personally, as stated above, find useless, and frequently irritating. I just don't like the car trying to tell me where, on the road, it "thinks" it should be, because it actually knows nothing of the road ahead except where the (often barely visible) lane markings are, whereas I can see the roadkill and the potholes etc. that I want to dodge, and the line I want to take through a bend, etc. etc. So, I turn it off. That is me. Others, inevitably will be different. I am unaware that failing to indicate to change lane on an empty road is an offence. However, that does not mean that I do not indicate to change lane when there is following, or preceding traffic. Signalling is a communication. But to communicate, there has to be a recipient. That does not mean I do not indicate right or left turns at junctions because the road is at that instant clear, because a) one slows to negotiate junctions and others, who may not be turning do not, so the actual traffic conditions can change very fast and b) there may be pedestrians or cyclists that are not initially visible on approach to the junction. But again, that is me. Driving is an observing, anticipating, thinking, and deciding activity and it is inevitable that we are all going to do it in slightly different ways. Horses for courses?

Hi guys! I thought might be useful for someone if I share my experience with tailgate problem. My Superb is from 2017 it is a hatchback. Started to stop during opening few weeks ago and just became worse and worse. Until I was able to open it by manually. Using OBD11 I was able to find out that the opening procedure was cancelled because the lock. The lock itself has 3 sensors and one of that was giving wrong signal to the hatch. That stopped the procedure. Two of the three sensors are visible so obviously the third showed false reading. Spent some time to try to reach it and washed well spraying WD40 through it. I managed to remove some dirt and left it testing for a week before put the liner back. It is working since then, so problem solved for me. I hope it is useful, good luck gentleman!

Good to hear! Props to them for being honest by admitting they did a sloppy job.

*Update on situation* Called up the service center (Spoke to the manager) this morning and they asked me drive the car to them. Car was taken immediately to the workshop on arrival and was sorted out in 30mins. They did admit the oil was overfilled and now is at the right level. They apologised for not having done the screws up properly for the under tray. The residue of oil on the under tray was left from the engine oil filter service and was not cleaned. No leaks from the differential. They have refunded the whole cost of the service. Car is back at home, all good! Thanks a lot for the advice guys!

yep, I went ahead and got a local independent to change the DSG oil/filter at 42k miles. The guy said the oil didn't look too bad. I can't really say i noticed any difference driving it. For me it was just for peace of mind. I treat every car like i'll keep it forever even if I don't

Had the same problem when my battery failed. Once the car was going again after being recovered, this fault remained until a new battery was fitted at the dealership.