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Totally normal. And the car will tell you when you need to replace the pads. Pads have a wear sensor.

Perfectly normal. Most Euro makes exhibit the same thing due to their use of softer brake pad composites that are more resistant to squeal. They will wear quicker than you might have been used to (but not that quick!), especially if you came out of an older vehicle or perhaps an Aussie or American make, or even Japanese. I gave my wheels a go over with car wax and the black dust washes off easily. Your front brakes do most of the work, so less dust on the rears.

Alloy wheels and brake dust 😡 They're always the first part of the car to look dirty and are the hardest part to clean! Thanks to @TheUltraRunner and @Mario_Delgado for recommended products to make the job easier 👍

Glorious sky tonight - hand held only though (too cold to linger with the tripod 🥶).

I would also strongly recommend ceramic coating the car, wheels and windows to anyone who likes to have their car clean. It's soooo much easier to clean a car which has been ceramic coated compared to wax or anything else.

I always do, saves expecting someone else to do it for you

@LuxoviaRS just pressure wash will have a little affect since brake dust is quite stubborn to remove if you don't have some kind of protection applied to the wheels (wax or ceramic coating). I would recommend using Koch Chemie Magic Wheel Cleaner (or any similar quality product dedicated for washing wheels). You just spray it on, wait a few minutes and then pressure wash the wheels. It does an excellent job without needing to touch/scrub the wheels. https://www.koch-chemie.com/en/products/magic_wheel_cleaner

I got the car back yesterday evening. I drove the car back from the dealer for around an hour with the Matrix Lights activated and so far I've not had any oncoming cars flashing me. So the re-alignment at VW seems to have worked so far. At the moment I'm still using them and half expecting to get flashed.. but I'll see what happens over the coming weeks, but hopefully after 2 years of ownership the last of the initial faults is now rectified.

The car arrived on Friday, so here are my initial thoughts after only a few miles behind the wheel: 1. Very comfortable and refined. Admittedly I'm coming from a Kia Proceed GT which had a lot of road and engine noise, but the vRS feels miles ahead in terms of comfort. I can see it being a great long-distance cruiser which will come in handy for some long trips with work in the next couple of months. 2. Incredibly comfortable seats. Much softer and yet more supportive than my previous car (which was its real weak point). 3. Dealers should do better with car prep. Ok it's only a lease car which was registered on the last day of November so may well have been left sitting outside for a while, but the window trims have green growth on them and the windows are still covered in marks presumably from the suckers that hold the glass during production. Front and rear windows need a proper clean inside. 4. Fake noise is actually not bad. The Kia was ridiculously loud - to the point of being bloody annoying as it was just a loud 4-pot so not even 'nice'. The vRS fake sound isn't anywhere near as intrusive and is actually quite pleasant. Don't get me wrong though, I'd prefer more real exhaust noise than fakery any day! 5. Infotainment has been fine so far. Still getting used to it - for example making my way around which of mine or my wife's phone should run car play when we're both in the car. For some reason the car is defaulting to her phone!

They all do that sir.....in fact all cars since the introduction of disc brakes..!

EVs go mass appeal......................

In my case, I am using Iron X CarPro with a soft brush. The product is effective but considering the geometry of the wheels, it's impossible to have a perfect result with just the product so 2 minutes after application I brush and rinse and ... perfect result! Rims as good as new.

Hey guys, Thanks for the help on this, I've had it fixed now with Dent Devils, the quote was 120 for the one dent and rear quarter, but we noticed there were a lot more dents on that panel from the bin about 4 in total, he also got rid of one on my rear quarter for free, in total it came to 180 which I think was excellent value hes also buffed the panel and knocked out some surface scratches. defo Try dent devils if you have them in your area. No issues with the ADAS.

It's your car, do what you want - in my opinion. Delaying the service until March is going to make very little overall difference, and makes sense to me. Could you bring the MOT forward to, say, mid February and have 13 or so months MOT, as a compromise? I certainly wouldn't be worrying about being penalised. I've previously brought a first service forward, and delayed other services, out of personal preference, with no adverse comments made by the main dealer. Gaz

It happens ever since they stopped using asbestos in the pads. I use the accumulation as a reminder to wash the car. Car washes never do wheels very well - on the few occasions I've used them I always go over the car afterwards with a bucket of water and a sponge to clean the bits that were missed.

If it has had a new cam belt and water pump, the coolant would have been drained. It could just be the coolant finding it’s level after being re filled and any air bubbles released. I would fill to correct level and monitor closely for a few days.

"brake pads most likely need replacing and should be done straight away" - Almost certainly male bovine excrement after 4_000 km. You would be well advised to wash the wheels using a mild car shampoo and a proper wheel brush.

Always pours out of both mine in weather like this, especially with the flaps open. Wouldn’t be worried about it.

So finally got this done having had to wait for the replacement 12mm logo to be delivered ( (3T0837891A). Successfully got the old key apart and transplanted the electronics. All good until trying to put the existing blade into the new key. Sadly the hole which forms part of the tang is slightly smaller on the new key than the original. This left two choices. 1. Remove the pin from each key which holds the 'cut' part in place or 2. get a new key cut from the existing one. I tried option 1 but after 25 minutes and no progress i abandoned that approach. The issue with moving the blades (As per the video) is the potential it may not even fit and may require further 'fettling'. So I went for option 2 and found a local locksmith (don't bother with the chains they won't even look at it unless you buy the whole thing from them for a starting price of £50 upwards).. they cut me a replacement blade for £20. So now I have a brand new key effectively... worth the effort i think as the keys on the old one were starting to soften and degrade from use. This should give a few decent years of service now. Total cost was around £8 for the shell, £20 for the new blade to be cut and £10 for the logo on the back (genuine part which came via this ebay auction - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203473104576). Photos of before (vertical) and after (horizontal). cheers.

A couple of pics from my new arrival last Friday...

Start with the ones in the doors, and the plenum chamber drains under the bonnet through the front wings.

first 469, then 741, then 742

You don’t really need/want to be using IronX every weekend wash. It’s for dissolving the iron deposits. Every six months is fine for that, along with the rest of the car.

I've been busy with other things through December and only used the car a few times but it had gotten worse to the point where i had a 1 hour drive with the HU stuck in boot loop and then two 30 minute drives without it booting up either so had got to the point where it just didn't boot. After speaking to another member they sent me an image for the firmware disc without it affecting the maps/media partitions so i burnt and installed it on Sunday and now have a working HU again.

That might be a game changer for all canton users. I will try to contact with the developer, but those mods are good only for the head-unit, not for canton/dyna audio

Spark plugs will be due at 40000 miles (37282 to be precise as it’s 60,000km) which looks like the mileage which is coming up now.

Thanks. Ive been told the Seat mib3 part identifier is missing from the January 2024 file, but whilst the Skoda one was missing from an earlier release as you say. I had noted moans on the net about that. So you came in after the Skoda ID went in the file and it worked. Those part indentifiers you can see in the firmware update files least in mib2 which is how the guy who just said it's missing to me on the Seat side knew, probably. So it appears you have to look at the firmware, examine the radio download logo file then tell them the part number is missing. Nag 1. Nag 2 is to get the missing radio logos put in. I here by elect Seat people with mib3 to nag them to make that file useable. It feels we might be getting somewhere.✔️

Great effort and great enterprise. The key on my 2017 is equally dilapidated - it's really cheap soft plastic. I bought a unused genuine Yeti one to use to re-shell it - it has the old logo but the plastic is so much nicer

the same i posted ealier. 469 + 741 + 742

. Yes true thanks. Is it OK to pressure washing them. I just went to a car wash nearby day before yesterday and washed the car down. The black dust was there after Ok thanks for that. Yes, I called the local skoda service centre and they told me that it is normal and that brake pads most likely won't need replacing until the 60,000 to 70,000 mark and that they do brake checks every service. Also said that vrs brakes are larger brakes and that happens. Yes thank you i learned that is true there will be a warning ⚠️ light indicating, nothing to worry about especially at just 4,000 km

I did it yesterday, same old battery. as far I know in Europe the AGM battery technology is called "Fleece" (at least for me that's the factory setting) at least make sure ur not using the "binary - AGM" because that's not the right one.

Update to this. Fitted window now. On reflection I should have bought new grommets as reusing old brittle ones made install a total pain (one was ok but the other I got like 75% in and decided that was enough...) Also buy the right rivets from Skoda as they are huge and not standard. The official manual was pants.... I recommend taking speaker out so you can hold the grommets at back when pushing in the insert. Skinny hands will help the far one. Use a few bolts or rivlets to secure panel rather than fitting rivets completely back as easy to push grommets into door recess and then have to start again at the beginning... Hope this helps anyone stupid enough to lock keys in car or not to have glass insurance....

I think I found the issue….. I have a private plate and am waiting for the dealership to send me my replacements. Used some old ones which are not flush on the bumper. think it is obscuring the sensor as tightened it the other day and no problems since

Hi You could probably drive a mile in cold weather from a cold start with no coolant at all, though I wouldn't recommend it ! I suspect you still have most of your coolant in the system, try squeezing the large radiator hoses - the "feel" will tell you if there is air or coolant inside. If still mostly full I suggest as above that you top up with the correct stuff and then use the car but keep a frequent eye on the expansion tank level and the temperature gauge. Coolant often contains a dye to help with leak tracing, can you see any pink residue around hose joints etc ? I think gasket failure is unlikely, and you would detect a misfire/lack of performance. When the original alarm went off, what was the temperature gauge showing (if you can remember) ? It's possible that the thermostat is not opening fully and restricting the maximum flow to the radiator. Maximum flow is only needed when the thermal load is high e.g. motorway driving. One failure mechanism of a wax capsule thermostat is that it loses some of its wax and then doesn't open fully. This probably won't trigger any fault codes. Clearly something triggered the original overheat alarm and it would be good to get to the bottom of that even if things seem OK now. If you ever find yourself in an overheat situation where you can't pull over promptly, it's a good idea to put the heater on maximum and use full fan assistance to take the water temperature down until you can stop safely.

There are ways to clean (or at least try) DPF yourself. And then there are specialist workshops that do that. Latter of course as better (and more expensive) option. Results of course would vary from car to car and the state of DPF it was in prior to the cleaning process. Most will argue that professional cleaning is the option 1 before buying new DPF because of the price. And I would agree. Unless you live in a country where you can go with option C - remove DPF. I am not familiar with Carista. I do use OBD11, and it never shows me errors I cleared myself previously. Then again, I never look for it. There is a log of course where I can access this data. But the fact that you saw this on your car and the problems you have now does sound fishy and I would suspect that dealer you purchased the car from has hidden some info from you prior to purchase. Although, it may just as well be that they cleared some irrelevant intermittent codes (like, low battery in key fob or similar less critical codes). I would advise you do visit a trusted or well regarded garage in your area and bring the car in for inspection. You do not have to go on and start repairing the car part by part until fixed (that guess work is expensive). Rather try to visit one or more specialists if needed and form your own opinion on what to do, with their professional advices in mind of course. Someone else here may and probably will jump in as well. Btw, since you said car was well maintained, has the car battery been changed and how old it is?

Thanks Joco776!

Nope, they are permanent live.

Yes but this is tiny and will take weeks, not like an icebox where the verdict will come within a day

Really? I ALWAYS do, do I? Please quote another 5 threads regarding car audio on which I’ve commented. Additionally, you will note I did say the Canton system is the best OEM sound I’ve ever had in any vehicle. Well looking at the quality of the installation in your Superb, it must be true. I bet it’s really loud too, with amazing bass which people in houses you drive past can not only hear, but actually feel? I think I’ve been around a little longer than you, and I when I was in my mid 20’s, I used to goto many HiFi demonstrations and there was alway car HiFi demos too, built by companies like Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Sharp, Blaupunkt, Technics and JVC, all of whom produced aftermarket HiFi. And yes, the sound was good…ish…. with the doors and boot open, so not that practical. So I do have a clue. But tell me; why do you need 100’s of watts of output in a space smaller and less acoustically sound than my bathroom? I ask as an excellent 60w HiFi amp, like my 1970 TEAC AS200S, or my 1979 JVC AX-3, running efficient speakers such as my Tannoy Lancasters, or KEF 103.3 easily fills a room four times the size of your Superb with quality HiFi sound running at 15w a channel.

I have perfectly smooth parking manoeuvres with Auto-Hold, even on slopes.

I don't really see a proper question. Therefore: Is the horrible noise the camchain? Yes. Have I bought the correct parts? Yes. My mates dad is gonna fit it for £300. Ok.

+1 👍 I think it should be against some law or another to have 0.5 degree temperature increments too G

You can tune the Auto-Hold behavior with VCDS. There are 3 possible settings: Early / Normal (default) / Late This modify the way the brakes disengage upon acceleration. They will release early / normal / late. Here is the mod: 03-Brakes > 16-Security Access : 11966 > 10-Adaptation - Select channel "IDE05055-Hydraulic brake assistant" - Change value to "Early" for smoother starts.

@plamen_333 Thanks. Never seen such a mod (but I don't say it's not possible... ) . However, front fog lights do turn on upon reverse.

So what it will be warm. The OP wanted some info, not Crap from wannabe Mechanic.

Hi john, I expect we can sort this out. I'll send you a private message in a few minutes. 🙂

What are peoples views on this video regarding EV insurance and what if the trend of manufacturers offering insurance is extended to other things like servicing etc?

50/50 on the drop links - they are easy to replace on their own but also cheap to fit new ones while you're doing the wishbones and need to remove them anyway. I would go Lemforder or TRW for the suspension arms / ball joints. Mine has original suspension arms but the rear bushes replaced with genuine TT ones. I've replaced the ball joints as well and I think they are TRW.

Don’t think you could even get at it from below. You basically just remove the airfilter box and mass airflow meter, and there it is. 5 mm allen key and a some pliers for the jubilee clips.

I already put it here once, I'm sending the link again. Read the discussion though. Approach https://www.drive2.ru/l/650934799095051499/ Files https://disk.yandex.ru/d/1V1uBTc8ssc3zA For the 2019 production year, update to version max. 742!