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The air must be really clean in the cities now if they have to start taxing on the fantasy basis that the tyres of heavier EV's throw up more particulate matter from the road than lighter ones. They should tax the wind, after all that blows up road dust and that way politicians would have to pay the majority of the taxes!

Thanks for all of your input guys. I went and had a battery only test drive yesterday where I achieved 30 miles (plus 2 to go) driving in different conditions from 20mph zones to 70mph zones. I was certainly trying to eke the distance out (heater off) but I was suprised how good the range seemed (and so was the salesman!). After that I decided to buy the car and I will pick it up tomorrow 😊

Heya Bud, not to be funny here but a replacement boot button is like £20 and half hours work ..wouldnt it be quicker and easier to just replace it yourself if its a dud?

Let's examine the Westminster consolation (link I provided in my previous post) to see whether EV are being charged inflated prices: As I suspected, EV, being zero local emission, are still cheaper than ICE cars. I also thin 70 kWh is a good cut off point as it incentivise people buying the standard range version rather than the "long range" because they might need it one blue moon. Myself is ashamed of this.

L&K I think ticks all the boxes for smooth ride with DCC, cruise and distance with ACC, Canton music is a step up from the basic music and ventilated and heated leather seats keep me comfortable on 4+hour drives. My kids love the heated back seats too.

Really boils my **** when people drive on the motorway with high beam matrix lights, especially if its an SUV, blinds the hell out of everyone because the lights can't decide what to turn on and off and then the poor lorry drivers on the other side of the road are constantly flashing because their headlights are hidden behind the barrier but their cab isn't. It should be called High Beam Assist or something instead. I always turn mine off on the motorway.

This ^^^^ And this ^^^^ WRT what Marky said, check the T&C's of your warranty to see what is, and what is not, included. Could the boot button be considered 'fair wear and tear'? Possibly, but my view is that you've bought a car from a main dealer, with an extended warranty, an item has failed in the warranty period, so needs to be returned to working order, and if that's by the warranty, then so be it. I'm not sure I fully understand what the £120 is about? Is it a diagnostic fee? The boot button doesn't work - I'd have said that was diagnostics enough 🙄 Is the £120 for an hour's diagnostics? If so, how long will is take them to push a button and suss out it's not working. I also think the clutch issue is something you take back to them, and ask them to remedy the issue, under warranty. Simple as that. Nothing more, nothing less. It'll be the Consumer Rights Act (2015) rather than the Sale of Goods Act, but nevertheless I'm not sure asking you for £120 a pop is reasonable in either circumstance, so I'd suggest having a conversation with Trading Standards/Consumer Direct before going back to the garage, so you're better informed and know where you stand, because take you for a ride they will, if they can. Gaz

Just to point out, cars like the Yeti don't have a strong concept of date/time so it's normally pretty safe to ignore that and rely on the milage instead. I also wouldn't expect a dealer to be bothered to clear codes during a service either As above, I'd save a scan (feel free to post it) and then clear all the DTC's to see which, if any, come back.

More than likely yes. Save the scan then clear the DTC's, then rescan after a few miles to what if anything is still a fault.

I did not try to resurrect the battery once I saw 1.5 V on the multimeter, based on past experience with highly discharged batteries. If the discharge had been quick ( say like lights left on overnight - maybe these "modern" cars won't let you do that ? ), I might have tried but I am certain this was a slow discharge over many weeks caused by operator error ( me ). I had other things going on and it just escaped my mind, as also the car wasn't running at this stage so that made it easier to forget to keep the battery charged. A quite expensive lesson for me. ( Yes I got those dash lights too after a battery change, but as you guys said, they all disappeared quickly. ) The reason I asked this question about fault codes in the first place was I tried VCDS for the very first time a few days ago and got a ton of fault codes showing on the Auto Scan results. That made me think that maybe the very low battery voltage may have caused mayhem with the various systems (naive as it seems now). But today as I gained more familiarity with VCDS, I looked more closely at the information and saw that pretty much all of the codes had dates from long ago, like 2016. Thanks for the responses.

If you have a phone connected via BT, then it's possible. But you need to have BT phone added in the VC. Indeed it's a 3 click step. If you have a phone connected via Apple Car play, then there is no possibility to end the call via steering wheel.

Just searching for something similar a few days ago: In the karoq section of this forum theres a gearbox manual that also covers some other models- same gearboxes used- including various diesel engined Superbs 2015- The details are in there for filling with a special tool , or via a funnel/ tube through an alternative route- after removing specific bolt/ fittings along with the volumes required. (p.s. a manual covering some recent Superb engines, including likes of recent DSRA /B motors are in the Kodiac section.)

I think DSG6 (DQ250) has been used until 2018. It was mounted on both FWD and AWD. I would say DSG7 (DQ380 for FWD and DQ381 for AWD) was mounted when FL versions started to appear. Mecatronic issues on DSG7 (DQ380/DQ381) seems to be quite seldom. Nothing to do with DSG7 (DQ200), which was a nightmare for after sales.

I had a GPF regen happen after several days of house hunting where the car was driven quite slowly for long periods. I didn't realise what was happening when I noticed a petrol smell inside the car and the fuel gauge was dropping quite quickly. After calling out the RAC he could find no leak and then asked if I had a GPF? - problem solved, doing a regen.

I will check my pressure in the tyres tomorrow. Just to eliminate any potential faults

Worked it out tonight on drive home. You have to have the phone widget showing in middle of a dial on the digital dashboard. You can then press the roller wheel to highlight phone widget then press right left/right button which opens a sub menu allowing you to end call, hold, etc Not the easiest. But will get used to it after a bit of practise. Next job is to see if it works same way if I initiate call from Android auto. Should do as both over Bluetooth. But I'll wait for daylight to try

Generally it's a single pump that does front or rear washers depending on polarity of power to it.

yes, I don't like that the new one shows only one-day trips, I want to see every trip.

Superb tend to be softer ride, more of a limo than a family car, but the wide variety of wheel and tyre sizes also affect the ride quality. Not sure how old your current car is, but be careful if you buy a diesel car to euro6d spec, the emissions equipment is very expensive to fix and not happy if get lots of short journey town driving and negligible longer journeys. The 4x4 versions are heavier (the extra deadweight is like carrying few sacks of cement around), obviously increases fuel consumption and maintenance. Unless you live up a steep hill, buying a set of winter wheels might work out cheaper than getting 4x4 version.

I think you will find that the Scout 150HP has 288x25mm front brakes and front shock absorbers with 50mm struts. Jurid on autodoc makes no mention of any Octavia MK3 with 150HP having bigger front brakes than 288x25mm...and which wheel bearing housings (aka. steering knuckles) you get depends on the size of the front brakes. It's the steering knuckle that decides whether the front shock absorbers have 50mm or 55mm struts. Wheel bearing housing (aka. steering knuckle) 5Q0407255N Left wheel bearing housing 1ZF (80mm wheel bearing) (front shock absorber with 50mm strut) 5Q0407255Q Left wheel bearing housing 1ZE (80mm wheel bearing) (front shock absorber with 50mm strut) 5Q0407253A Left wheel bearing housing 1ZA 1ZB 1LG (85mm wheel bearing) (front shock absorber with 55mm strut) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/4 Build code decoder 1ZF=276x24mm front brake discs 1ZE=288x25mm front brake discs 1ZA=312x25mm front brake discs 1ZB=312x25mm front brake discs 1LG=340x30mm front brake discs https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/753/6

I thought it was a 1.2 TSI. Obviously. He didn't say and I didn't think to fire up the background check in his profile, I object to doing detective work to answer somebody's question. It still has a chain though...

I heard my name being mentioned.... 😝

As you can see below, you can still get these items new. You should be able to order them from any VAG parts department by quoting the relevant OEM part number, eg. 6V6061162, 6V6017700, etc. Protective insert for Fabia MK3 hatchback 6V6061162 (739CZK is about £25.36) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/ochranna-vlozka-fabia-iii-hatchback/p/6V6061162 Nets for Fabia MK3 hatchback 6V6017700 (619CZK is about £21.24) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sitovy-program-cerny-fabia-iii/p/6V6017700

Hi MickA - thanks for replying. We’ve checked every fuse we can find after I saw another post suggested it’s not always the obvious fuse. We’ve also had a multimeter in there checking the fuse connections - all seems okay.

MFG buying 337 Morrison,s Filling stations & forecourts is fair enough and more than 400 associated site to develop ultra rapid EV charging hubs. I was going to use the chargers near Edinburgh Airport this week despite the cost and they were all occupied so i had to head to a PodPoint not much cheaper and get a charge there. Good that they are providing the service but the cost is really too high for many including me, but then the Council Chargers are not that cheap and worse than that unreliable.

Hi, is this still available? I'd be interested in them both. Thanks

@RootedYou have too much time on your hands That's very interesting and makes me want to dig out the equivalent VW doc as I'm not in doubt on my cover. Far too late now as I've had the car for over 3 years and it's 5 years old. Still good to know where I stand. Edit: That didn't take long to find and confirmed that It's first owner only for VW too. Can only assume it's the same across the VAG brands. Very disappointed and I'll be sharing the info with the EV forum I'm on.

good to hear! congratulations!! share some pics Remember now the weather is cold, in the spring most likely the range will be a bit more.

Thanks again bigade1 for all your hard work

Key arrived this morning and bolt removed😊

Attend to it or learn how to bleed the clutch at the side of the road because it will get progressively worse. Warranty, was this one that you paid extra for or they claimed to have thrown in that is run by an insurance company? If so all they are is a vehicle to make the stealer even more money, to be able to demand £120 each time you report a fault and to avoid their responsibilities under the sale of goods act by saying "we are really sorry but the warranty company say no!". The problem being that you are now beyond the date where the garage would have any liability so the "warranty" is all you have

If this is factory installed unit then pls share your VIN I will send you link for downloading the right software

Can't help with fill and drain on your engine, they are pretty easy to spot on my 6 speed manual (1.4tsi), but you're absolutely right it is well worth changing. I did mine a couple of years ago and it came out in pretty poor shape. Can't say I noticed much difference in quietness or shifting but it was good to know that it was back up to spec.

Good. Sounds like a plan, worked during covid and well suited to the milder south of the UK, and in Cities and in local communities like are planned with High Streets and Community Complexes. Health Centres, Police Stations, Schools. All not going to happen where most people live, or where they go to work because everyone does not work from home. Is it not really under current review for some councils. i read differently. There are councils that have charges by size / weight, or propose to. Gloom and doom. Doomed he says.

Another thing he forgot to mention is, that he compares his 136MPI to 135 carb...

The car did it itself when I turned on the ignition. The infotainment system was turned off on the previous journey and all I did was start the car!

New mirror units ordered at £850 for the pair. better than the £750 each that other places sold them for! Should be able to sell the lhd ones and my original ones for £150ish each so £600 returned which helps to offset the cost from the brand new units. On another note, 2 of the door pocket lights are now fitted, just got to code them in;

Yes. Though it was crashing very often when trying to switch on AC remotely, the new app is definitely doing better in this regard. As for charging, yes, everything as you describe I have on both apps. No matter SOC. If I plug the car and try to start charging right away from the app, it usually works. If car fell asleep - that's it, app won't see it plugged. Though scheduled charge starts without any problem, so looks like car itself does not think it is not plugged.

Superbs are lovely cars. Mines a 2018 model. Be very wary of seat comfort. To my mind this is what lets down the car. I'm rather a short person and find the driver's seat VERY uncomfortable, but have to put up with it.

That must be a Skoda thing because my warranty is definitely live.

I would electrically check the old pump if you still have it. Check it electrically and also with a power supply. If it works then the issue is probably not the pump, it will be wiring somewhere (check earth's on the tailgate). BTW.... aftermarket devices are not good. Did you electrically test that one before installing it? Just because it's new it doesn't mean it's any good. BTW...I have found VAG products are usually similar prices and at least you will have a good known product.

@Monmouthshire That 91% doesn't mean a lot. Is that 91% of the original useable capacity or 91% of the total capacity. If "original useable" then the result is based on what's written down as the spec, which the car was unlikely to achieve when new. So if you take the actual useable capacity when new at 96% of spec, then 91 after 3 years is probably within the scope of wear. It will likely drop faster in the first few months then settle before a gradual decline. All that being said, if it's 91% of actual capacity then there is no issue at all as that is roughly the useable capacity anyway. For peace of mind, there is a warranty on the battery that exceeds the rest of the car so any issue will be sorted by Skoda usually with a new battery.

If you have matrix headlights push stalk away from you to turn on auto high beam basically the car decides if lights should be dipped or high as camera can turn sections of the lights off so you dont dazzle oncoming traffic or cars you are following. When I have to go into office my commute involves a couple of unlit country lanes you have to have faith but never been flashed and you can actually see sections dip either side of the car, other morning followed a golf down lane and could see the cut out around their car where it had auto adjusted the light sections down - work of the devil but amazing tech😄 RCC49 means that you can code car so is always on and you dont have to push stalk every start up to activate it for that journey

https://we.tl/t-q97i5UNctp sw469 after SW469, you need SW741 + SW742 https://we.tl/t-mHVO3josgD use a memory stick with native USB C if Android AUto still does not work with your new phone , dont. update just yet to higer SW, because they are not for older units. there are a few people here the updated to 1790 and after that SW1800 does not install... i will search for a fix

They were indeed and the open sports car fans said they wouldn't wear seatbelts because it was safer not to as in the case of an accident the y would be thrown clear of the car before it burst into flames. (Statistical note: very few car crashes result in a vehicle bursting into flames.)

63 plate car will have the revised engine with improved chain drive so in my experience chain life is considerably longer (120,000+ miles v 60,000 miles in the examples we owned) A slight rattle on cold start ups for a couple of seconds (until oil pressure is established) is quite common and probably nothing to worry about. But if the rattle gets loud ( heard inside the car) on start up (usually happens after being stood a long time) and sounds painful, like a machine gun , this is the chain so slack it's riding up on the sprocket(s), IMMEDIATELY turn off the engine to prevent disaster. Wait 4 or 5 seconds, then restart the engine and hopefully the loud rattle is no longer there as the oil pressure on the initial start allows the tensioner to take up the slack and force the chain to engage the sprockets correctly. In this case its time to replace the chain kit (entire kit contains chain, 2 sprockets, tensioner and 2 guides). I had replacements done at around £400 each time at my Skoda dealer but the last was around 3 years ago. Tip: Don't leave the car parked in gear. In this design if the crankshaft rotates reverse to its normal direction then the chain tensioner can be forced back and the chain goes slack on the non tensioner side. It will then hang down off the bottom sprocket. If you must park in gear, use reverse gear if the car is pointing uphill and 1st if pointing downhill. Btw the ticking/clicking noise you mentioned in your 1st post is probably from the mechanical high pressure fuel pump located on the cam cover - big shiny hex head on top and 2 stainless steel fuel pipes. Can be quite loud at idle stood outside but inaudible in the cabin. Normal and nothing to worry about.

So a little update. She failed the TÜV but nothing major. The battery was loose so bought a new clamp, drilled out the old broken bolt and now the battery is sorted. Loose trims inside the engine bay. Clips and bolts etc replaced and all solid now. The middle silencer is rusting and there's bits falling off. They said it would be ok to just removed the outer rusting shell but it's booked for Tuesday for a new middle silencer fitting. The wheels/tyres and springs aren't original and since we don't have the "log book" where these things would normally be registered by TÜV they have to be checked against the vehicle to ensure they're fit for the vehicle. Costs extra of course but only a paper exercise. They're quite strict with this sort of thing here and any mods/aftermarket parts have to be EU marked and often extra listed on the "log book" that they're safe etc. Thankfully these don't have to be declared to the insurance. So yes the options of mods are more limited here than the UK but doesn't put insurance up! And lastly the headlights. They were cloudy which I obviously already knew but thought I might just scrape through this time and could sort them this summer. So I spent the day yesterday sanding from 800 up to 5000 grit sandpaper. Then a coat of clear coat. Looking good. Going this morning to the lock up to see how it's dried. Looking good already. Certainly an improvement.

I get this same problem with my 2010 L&K on the drivers side. I get seat belt warning plus the electric adjustment to move seat forwards or backwards will only move the seat towards the steering wheel even if moving away from the steering wheel is selected. It seems to be a bad connection with one of the connectors under the drivers seat. If I "exercise" these connectors the fault will clear. This spring / summer I'm going to take the drivers seat out so I can see if there is any corrosion on the plugs pins / sockets.

It's a latching warning light, and you need a garage or a bought VCDS to reset it.

NOK means Not OKay