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similar but different.. tried to get my colleague to get all the 9's, he missed them as the we passing through the tag lane of the toll and it beeped, distracted him for a second and he got the 100k instead 😞 "Take the photo!!!" "what was that?" "dipsh17, you missed them "

To do a proper visual inspection requires you to turn the engine over 2 full rotations. The 1.5 might be different due to the required tooling but usually it's cost prohibitive to just inspect. You may as well change it by the time you've looked at the whole belt. Most garages I suspect will just open the cover up and look at the small section they can see. That's not a visual inspection as far as I'm concerned.

Sitting at a red light isn't so bad with a view like this!

Yeah I reckon that’ll be original, personally I’d find a suitable Varta replacement and have it fitted. If you DIY you’ll need to plug VCDS etc in, change the manufacturer, change ah from 68ah to whatever the new one is, change the bem code value to be whatever but I’d do date format like 15022024, start the car and turn steering wheel full lock left then full lock right and you should be rocking I’ve not done this myself yet but from what I remember that’s the way

7P0915105 is an OEM reference from VAG for batteries. Thus, good chance, this is it's original battery.

Welcome to the forum. If it’s started on fixed servicing, it should stay on fixed. I’m not even sure you can move to variable once it’s on fixed but I’ll wait to be corrected on that. Stick to CarPlay would be my advice. My accessories include a battery air compressor, because tyres deflate. The Aldi one I have is excellent. Incorrectly inflated tyres cause premature and uneven wear and can be dangerous. Tyre Pressure Gauge, a decent one. I’ve had this one for about 10 years. I tested it against a calibrated garage unit a few weeks ago and found it to be accurate. Spray bottle with filtered 0ppm water. Bird poo wipes. Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Detailer. Three Microfibre towels.

Seems to be a bunch of fairly minor cosmetic tweaking in the '24 facelift, almost for the sake of it. Doesn't stand out from the pre facelift MY23 imho, although I guess that's what facelifts do (vs. a model change). I think it would have been a useful and popular upgrade to add a rear bumper guard, especially on the wagon.

On a wind up I think, last visited October 2017 with similar results : "Why are people so hasty to criticise? Don't often visit the site and remember why now."

Octopus introducing the "Power Pack" https://octopus.energy/power-pack/ Basically: give Octopus control of your car for at least 12 hours a day every couple of days. You receive free charging up to 333 kWh (~1000 miles) per month totally free. Current only compatible with Leaf and Wallbox V2G charger. As I've been saying, batteries in BEV are part of solution to enable adoption of more unpredictable renweables. We are starting to see the technology trickling to early adopters while EV enter mainstream.

Mine is also 2017 and after tinkering earlier it is now working I'll send the long coding tomorrow

She is great, i assume she researched what Fud means in Scotland!

I do some DIY but don't own VCDS unfortunately... I would buy it but a touch steep at £220 limited to only three cars. Appreciate it's pretty much a must have though... I come from BMW ownership more recently and INPA and DIS were essential tools. My neighbour does have a pretty decent Autel scanner so I might have to ask him if I can check it over.. it might do battery coding!

Thanks, took forever as left it with local garage who I trust ( not the cheapest, but generally spot on) . Shoulder totally wrecked after they confirmed the BCM. I let them take it out and ping it to the auto electrician ( the auto electrician said if you have a DIY go and fail it's a new BCM and recoding -£1100, ouch)£480 later all in it's done,still ouch . Not a great design, it had blown the relay.

I had the OEM ECU software re-flashed as it had been previously bodged to keep the EGR closed, and remove limp mode error messages. The idea is to get the car to OEM and then judge whether an injector is required or not. So far, driving around town as usual the car is MUCH quieter, smoother, nicer to drive as I think the throttle response had been messed with, and average MPG readout has gone up a fair bit. VCDS injector logs next ...

You're out of luck, those mats went out of stock anywhere a long time ago and are now deleted and cannot even be ordered.

Not experienced it myself However, unless you are in the first year of ownership from new or subscribe to Skoda Connect you won't be getting live traffic. Would personally recommend Android Auto (or the other one) as it will be a real time as you can get with Google Maps or Waze

You have to pull two wires on each side. One is for the connection to the turn signal and the other for the reversing light. Unless you already grab the reversing light on the inside at the coupling point, then you don't need to pull a second one from the outside. Actually logical if you had a plan, if you knew what you wanted to do. You make two wires if you build an adapter, for example. Then you pick up the reversing light there.

Afaik there are no reports on Briskoda or anywhere else of cambelt failure on EA211 engines. The only issue I recall are a batch of early 1.0tsi engines where bolts in the top pulley cam phasers came loose and allowed oil to leak out. Even then I think the cambelts survived. Removing the top timing cover would pick that up. The novel oval/tri-oval CTC crank pulley does a good job of reducing repetitive torsional tension issues. The cambelt is wide, uses latest material technology and doesn't drive other things directly, the water pump being located/ driven at the opposite end of the camshaft. Pages 38 - 43 in the following document explains the requirement for extreme precise cam timing on the 1.5tsi 821223.pdf

I'm not sure this is true on a 2020 model. My iV has an eSim built in, and I can choose to pay for certain over-the-air services such as traffic, weather, news(!) etc without the need for any form of data package. I used these for a few months, as I had 6-months' complimentary subs when I bought the car. I chose not to renew, as I'm more than happy with Carplay. The only thing I pay for is the basic Skoda Connect package, which enables things like turning on the heating using the app. There is no data charge asssociatd with this. As far as I'm aware the purpose of a data package would be to use the car as a wifi hotspot.

Thanks. I've ordered a Hella one, which I believe are also Behr, but then also believe Mahle to be too. Either way, Hella should be OK and it is specified to be dimensionally correct.

This is becoming more and more popular. Many years ago i can accross the Mongol rally that's about taking a very much underpowered small car from London to Ulanbataar. That takes some cash and mostly time, so i never managed, even though my Suzuki Carry would be absolutely perfect for it. Cars can not be left there... Then there is the Bamako rally, where you can join up pro rally teams with something hopelessly not suitable for that kind of job, and then you get to enter for free or something like that. There's a Polish Zlombol that means communist cars, or cars designed during the communist era, so Skoda Favorit still plays... lot of Ladas, Yugo, Wartburg... That happens on road though, no abuse at all. Cars are supported through companies for advertisement on the cars. The money goes for charity. there's a small Gruz rally think, organised entirely privately, where you enter with something not off-road capable and go to places which are considered off road. They went to Romania last year, and Felicias are very much welcome. I guess as cars became very much available and still not too horribly expensive to run (I mean here in Eastern Europe) you can really get a still decent 30 year old car for a box of doughnuts, and have fun with it. That was unimaginable 10-20 years ago when a working car had a much much bigger value. This year I planned to enter the gruz rally (Zlombol just became waay too big, last time they went with 5000 teams to Albania) with my not much loved Opel Astra Classic. There's a guy who is running a Fiat Cinquecento with massively tractor like tires and goes everywhere with it. Cinquecento and Seicento were built here some 100km from me, and they are dirt cheap. Even the Mongol Rally organisers (theadventurist.com i think) started to make more local rallies, for people who can't afford to drop life for 3-4 months... Now you can start and drive around Europe. In that case Ricardo's comment is legit though.. you might end up scrapping your French car in Estonia, but let's treat the EU as one big car economy. After all I did the opposite, went with a wreck from Hungary to the UK, had an accident in Belgium, and eventually sold the carcass for metal in England. I'm not sure about abuse or no abuse... the sheer fun and memories are worth for me, though I personally would do my best to bring the car back and keep it, complete with the stickers, scars, modifications. A Suzuki Carry that limped back from say Kyrgistan would be on a plinth in my garage!

Adaptive cruise control is using lots of rear pads, pretty common case.

For front it's 5NA035700. Just ordered one and will check how i can fit it to O4. Actually there are two versions of standard port. 5NA035736 and 5NA035736A. By the looks of it, newer part number with A has same (or similar) casing as 45W one, so maybe it's possible to już swap PCB between the cases. One without A looks a bit different, and it might be harder, but i'll check. My car is from march 2021, so i assume i will have one without A. As for rear ports, i would have to check in ETKA, a just saw there are options, but haven't really checked for part numbers.

I am in same situation 😁 There are a few points to code on my S3 2019, but I have any IDEA how. Is here somebody with how can we start? Exist any manual for VCDS with code? Thank you very much for your help.

Welcome😀 Once it's on fixed service, it can't be changed. Can't comment on oil. Matrix light early/late is for how light or dark it is before they come on, not how much you dazzle anyone one else. Mine is set for late. I use the Skoda online thingy, but you have to have your own data only sim card inserted if you want real time traffic data etc. I like that it's more integrated than using carplay.

Have a look at the battery is it the original? If it is then change it, as it’ll be getting on from 2015. Take a picture and post it here if you’re unsure, but you’ll be looking for a BEM sticker, if it has that it’s original. Although it’s not conclusive that it’s the original but most people would replace with a non OE

We have a completely standard Vrs, which the other half really likes, to the point she isn't interested in changing it after 19 years of ownership.

Indeed, Bolero with DAB. PM

No Idea if they are working as bought off fleabay, the rolling buttons seem ok which looks to be a normal point of failure, they owe me £45. I would still like to get them working if I can, just waiting on some advice via the ross-tech forum.

Well, it depends on the servicing schedule. If you go to the MIB / car radio, and go to Car/Vehicle and go to Settings, you will find Service Information in there. It will tell you when the car is scheduled it's next service. I would recommend oil/filter every 10k miles or 12 months and a major service every 20k miles. As it's 5 years old, it's due a coolant change (and make sure you remove the silicone bag of death out of the header tank), check it's had an HVAC service too and I think you are probably due a brake fluid change too at 5 years.

The actual costs or quotes were from £750 - £1,250, and even as low as £550 to those that had a price from Dealerships and the service desk not knowing it was a 6 hour plus job. The member said they honoured that price of £550. The £729 first posted about in the General Maintenance section was at Independents using not OEM parts. & some Quotes were for 1.5 TSI and not 1.5 TSI ACT,s. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510175-karoq-cam-belt-change-start-saving-now http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/507544-cambelt-for-15-tsi-in-east-kent

I finally had a drive long enough the other day to allow the installation. Confirming the VW portal file works, flawless installation and full maps functionality afterwards - I downloaded the second file.

No, I mean it's a double pole switch, one pole does the brake lights the other pole sends a signal to the ECU, this is the part of the switch that has failed.

Front seat blower motor 3G0963345

13.5V with engine running is too low. Replace the brake switch first, it's two switches in one and one part of it has failed.

Looks like a nice facelift, not sure it's enough for me to seriously consider changing my current 2021 VRS though. I was hoping to see a 4WD version of the petrol VRS

In Greece the carburettor start "dying out" from the 1992, at 1995 the Felicia was sold only with injection system here.

The whole point of front fogs is that they are lower mounted and hence you get less glare reflected back to the driver. Headlights have to be mounted higher (legal requirement so they can be used when it's not foggy) so any 'fog light function' using only headlights will create more glare back to the driver than lower mounted lights, so I can only see the removal of lower mounted fog lights as a bad move - probably a badly judged cost saving.

And here we go !

For me the rattle was caused by this clip in the first pic. I removed it from it's holder and put a piece of cloth tape beneath. When you put it back you will notice it goes in a bit tighter and this stopped the rattle.

It's not, it's metal. All screws hodling the door card have metal "nuts"/thread in the door construction. For me it didn't help. What helped was sound deadening of the door and mostly foam glued to the door card. However recently it's developing new rattle in the passenger door, seemingly coming from the lock (or at least this area). Tried to find the source, but couldn't locate anything except for the lock, for which i didn't have proper tools to remove, so next round will come during spring. I also bought second batch of foam, so will add it and fix the rattler at the same time (hopefully ).

A long and extremely wet drive today to Auckland for Collecting Cars coffee run. Met up with John who very kindly gave me a petrol cap that keeps the petrol in!!

So new 21mm spacers are done with conus on backside to accomodate existing center hat which has 130mm contact surface. They are 140mm front with 128mm back spacers made of 6082alu. Hubcentric 72mm without any centering rings. Same pattern as wheel so they are extra light. Design borrowed from 42draft design. In plan to make new center hat (drawing already corrected) with 140mm contact surface for new flat 140mm spacers and one more spare pair of discs that should also be drilled from 6,4x9mm to 9 mm to have them aside as spare parts now when I have drawings,materials and possibillity to make them.

Yes for the rear caliper pistons I used a rewind kit, I also have the manual handbrake. The hardest part to the job is taking the rear caliper brackets m14 headed bolts off, due to their access. I've increased my tool collection so hopefully I'll get them off a little easier the second time around rather than going through the rear coil spring to reach them and get enough torque on them to get them off.

I don't know why you don't move back to the UK with all that never-ending rubbish weather you get down there.

This guy loves a car ride! https://i.imgur.com/T2FCeaB.png https://i.imgur.com/mvJWg4h.png

This is the manual car/dog version of “I can’t get up because the cat is comfortable on my lap”

Maybe remove the whole stub axel from the car and attempt to drill/tap it out on a bench.