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I don't wish to poke a hornets nest here, but I can identify with your view. Some time back I got into a 'debate' with a few strong advocates in here for turning Lane Assist off. Similar to you, I concluded the local practice of how lane change indicators are used (or not) might determine the level of one's angst with LA. I too argued that always indicating lane changes will render this a non-issue. I also agree that any 'pull' on the wheel that I've experienced in my Mk4 has been quite mild, certainly not a wrench. I don't know if it's adjustable, it's just how my car was delivered. Having driven in the UK a few times, it became very obvious to me that lane changing without indicators is a very common practice, including on motorways. In this country, failure to indicate lane changes under any circumstances is illegal, so perhaps we're just more conditioned to indicating such maneuvers. A counter argument was put to me by one poster that "indicating is a form of communication and for any communication to be meaningful it requires a sender and a recipient (as if I somehow didn't understand that basic premise!) therefore when no other drivers are present on the road to see my signal there's no point in giving it". Our local laws override whatever credence that premise may have, so our instinct to indicate when changing lanes simply takes over whether anyone else is around or not. Hence LA isn't a real problem. If UK law doesn't require indicating in all lane changing instances, then I can see how LA could become annoying.

I know i'm probably going to get a lot of hate for this but i don't think i've ever had it make me veer or swerve since having the car. I've had it in a few VW courtesy cars over the years from my VAG specialist when the Superb or Fabia were in for services etc.... and as explained by VW Germany to my specialist when they were over there being trained on the tech it's designed to be used with your lane change indicators but it seems here in Britain the majority of people just change lanes rather than flicking the indicator. I've always just used the lane change faciltiy anyway over the years but as i say i've not had the car make me swerve or veer in daily use. I'm not 100% sure but isn't the strength also adjustable in the settings so maybe i have mine at a lower setting? There is a little pull on the steering when i do purposely cross a line or maybe a painted over line etc..... As I say is it because us Brits just don't use the lane change indicators as we maybe should?

I'm only a few days into ownership of my (new to me) 2020 Octavia & already I want to permanently disable this so called "lane assist". The weird feeling when it's trying to wrest control from me on the 2mls of narrow country lane I need to travel down to leave my village. 2mls of intermittant center white line coupled with the occasional solid white line on the nearside. It's not like I'd ever need to use an indicator on there, unless someone's broken down or maybe a non local horse rider perhaps. Is this really a "safety" feature? I like to think that safety starts with being in 100% control of the car & driving according to the conditions within your ability. I remember a traffic cop stating many years ago that the only "safety" device that needs fitting to a car is a 6" spike on the steering wheel pointed straight at the drivers throat.

The Volvo issue is being talked about in the Volvo EX30 thread:

Personally, I'd go for the higher speed rating if that price is correct. My money's on the difference in ride comfort being indistinguishable.

@R_Blue As @nta16 says, to the extent that anything else I'd add would be repetition or answering a supplementary question.

From what I can see there is no alternative to an LMG but it was also used in the Ibiza 2012>2015. Bear in mind that a genuine exchange box from a Skoda dealer 02T 300 058 X is a very reasonable £1794 inc VAT retail.

What makes you think you need an oil cooler. Older cars but with similar old engine like yours would have from factory didn't have oil cooler even in warmer climate countries just lower opening 'water' thermostat and perhaps different 'water' rad fan. If you are lugging heavy loads uphill a lot or towing (in an old 1.3 petrol though?) you might have a need but otherwise not usually. Yes if you have an oil cooler you want a thermostat with it otherwise it's the same as not having a 'water' thermostat in cold weather, the engine will take longer to warm up and then may not reach proper operating temperature in very cold weather or shorter journeys in cold weather and the oil could be overcooled to work efficiently and fill with nasties and need changing even more frequently than it should already. Oil wants to be at about at least 90c on a journey or engine use, ignore the coolant temperature gauge 90c as they are often biased to read a rock steady 90 when well above or below or moving around and it's coolant temp not oil temp. For examples only - http://www.mocal.co.uk/products.html By riser plate do you mean a sandwich spacer plate at the oil filter mounting, if so there are different types and varieties, connections only, ones with thermostats perhaps, full and non full flow so it may depend on the filter type normally used it's position on engine and experiences of others as to which to use and not use for your circumstances. There may be a factory or accessory oil cooler fixing kit that includes connectors and hold clips for the hoses. You do not want the rubber hoses unclipped to be cut or worn through by engine or car movement as you can then have a loss of a lot of oil and oil pressure. Unless you are lugging heavy loads uphill a lot or towing (in an old 1.3 petrol though?) a better solution may be to use a very good quality proper (fully) synthetic oil that will deal with hot and much colder temperatures better and offer wider protection with better margins for longer and continue changing the engine oil & filter at book time or distance whichever is soonest. HTH.

^^^^^^ + this, and then there is the 'vehicle in blind spot' scenario. I loose count of many times I have to brake in lane 3-4 when someone pulls out in front of me from lane 2-3 without indicating.

I read this morning of Volvo (Geely) suspending sales of vehicles and giving compensation or buying back. Software issues, charging issues, safety issues basically. This is very very much the issue with the latest of vehicles, BEV or ICE. Computer says no. Or can not even communicate with the vehicle. When the screen is where the driver has to do even basic stuff to be able to drive the car then total failure is really really as issue. Then not being able to charge an EV is 'Play stopped'. At least they appear to be a bit better at doing something than the VW Group.

It’s now just under two weeks since I collected my Mk4 L&K 193 ps dsg 4x4 estate. So I thought I’d share a bit about it: I’d had a 2018 Mk3 non facelift L&K 190 ps dsg fwd which I’ve been very pleased with in the almost 6 years I’ve had it. I wanted one last estate car before I eventually downsized, so I went for it. I’m guessing I might be one of the first in the uk to get one of these. I’ll try to feedback my experiences with it in case it’s useful for anyone thinking about getting one. Because I tow, I stuck with diesel. So far: First impressions are very good. The gadgetry is a leap on from the Mk3 although you could argue that the Mk3 was good anyway. Example: Self learning parking on the new car. I reversed in an S shape track into a corner of my driveway. The car asked if I wanted to save the manoeuvre for it to do itself next time. Self regulating speed in response to reading traffic signs. Stuff like that. Other stuff in no particular order: CD player in glove box is gone. Apple car play + Android does it all now and I also believe the new car has its own registered SIM. No more tyre gel. Space saving wheel now. Floor is still at low height so retains maximum space. Space also gained in rear side of boot because the Canton amplifier etc which was there, now houses in the spare wheel. Only one umbrella this time, although both doors still have a recess. Power outlets (the old cig lighter sockets) are no longer permanently live. They come on with ignition. As far as I can tell, the new car unlike the old, does not after a time, turn the ignition off on an unstarted engine. The ride and quietness is very good. The old one was great but it seems as if everything is soundproofed a bit more on this new car. I’d say though that the suspension on the old car was gentler. This is when comparing Comfort mode. Both cars have 18” wheels. The new car sits quite a lot higher at the back. Maybe all suspension settles and softens. I’m sure the old car was higher when new. Infotainment. The satnav map on the new car, unlike the old, has no altitude reading. Regardless, the map seems better and clearer overall although it still carries that trait where, if you expand the view, the text stays small. Rev limiter, when car in Park: The new car does not seem so far to have this although I obviously have not tested it too much. It’s a 7 speed as opposed to the old 6 speed. I’m getting the feeling that it’s longer legged as a result rather than closer geared. I tow an Eriba Triton caravan, and just like the Mk3 car, the Mk4 is a complete dream when towing and averages just over 35 mpg. The caravan is a small 950kg aluminium thing but the mpg is still pretty good. The co2 emissions are stated I think about 157 gm/km whereas the old car was about 132. Maybe the 4x4 has something to do with that. The quoted solo mpg is in the high 40’s as opposed to 54 on the old. But, I’m getting pretty much the same on the new car albeit without the bike roof racks on yet, and just like with the old, 65 mpg on a steady A road trip has not been over difficult to get, and easily does 54 on the motorway at 60/70 mph Once the racks are on this may all drop a bit. Rear seat release from boot is new and it’s great. Seatbelts add security and tighten up when the new car reaches about 15 mph. Front seats move back when doors opened, makes exit easier I guess, a nice feature. All in all this promises to be a great car, an improvement on outgoing one if that were ever possible. So far I’m happy and still singing it’s praises😊 Hopefully I’ll add more as time goes on.

That type rarely goes, it's the ones with a rubber diaphragm inside that fail usually. If you remove the hose can you blow/suck through it? If there is no resistance then it's probably bad

Yeah, got vcds to let it know the new battery parameters

Midsummer city skyline

Skoda fabia 1.0 TSI DLAC engine code

2016 vrs tsi wagon Unplanned service costs zero Unplanned breakages zero Bought at two years old ,still on same brakes, discs ,clutch, battery ,had a major sevice two years ago ,i change the oil every twelve months myself ,fingers crossed its been a cracking motor to own 52000 miles on clock ,cant imagine what i would replace it with ,may do the brakes and disc this year mebbe 👍

2015 1.4TSi SEL DSG Estate on 89K. Unplanned service costs - zero. Unplanned 'breakages/issues' - high beam assist stopped working this year (not worried about fixing it), and for 3-4 years the 'leave vehicle in park' message pops up occasionally due to the well known gearselector microswitch (not worried about fixing it). Just replaced front pads/disks and a new battery earlier this year, and rear pads this month - all for the first time. Other than that just regular oil and filters, tyres (twice), plugs (twice). And a headlight bulb. It's been a great car! Maybe I've been lucky.

Yes, i checked and starting with July 1st its mandatory. I just hope that turning it off/on will remain the same as it is. Its pretty quick to turn off speed limit warning as it is. I just hope they wont change they way how you turn it off/on.

I'd report as soon as possible and ask for a test drive in an earlier model. I'm on my 7th DQ200 DSG and have also had several DQ250's, a DQ381 and a DL501. Not one could I have described as having harsh downshifts. I was actually impressed how smoother the DSG is on the 1.5 Karoq when compared to our 1.0TSi Fabia. Just checked and I have gear indicator on every display on virtual cockpit.

I have been keeping track of my MPG since I got the car in July 2020. I've only had the use of ECO option since Dec 2023 due to the driving mode button/software being inoperative before then ( stuck in Normal with no coasting option ). Since then I've driven exclusively in ECO and have used the coasting feature at every opportunity. Daily commute is 50 miles each way, mostly motorway with weekend travel of 60 miles per day, again mostly motorway. Checking my MPG for the last 4 years between Jan - July I can report the following: Jan - Jul 2021 - Normal - 58.6mpg Jan - Jul 2022 - Normal - 57.7mpg Jan - Jul 2023 - Normal - 59.3mpg Jan - Jul 2024 - ECO - 58.7mpg So, in conclusion, it doesn't seem to make much/if any difference at all even though up until today I thought it must.

Perhaps their TPS cocked it up and quoted on a brand new one which is £2728.66, still not expensive, I double checked it with Nottingham TPS and the price is correct but the number doesn't come back on stock check so I need the VIN.

Fit and forget two year warranty, not a difficult decision.

Just out of interest roughly where do you live? Your stated location to me seems to be some sort computer or keyboard thing, I've no idea as I've never typed and don't do the three or four finger spread across a keyboard for what's supposed to be a short cut, if I can't generally find from a right-click menu I curse the programmer. I live in a part of England that doesn't that often get that cold but even on a coldish summer's day or night I would never have an accessory oil cooler without a thermostat to it.

Don't get me wrong l did enjoy the BMW but only bought it on impulse rather than just staying with Skoda. The things l didn't like were; paint finish/thickness IMHO was poor for such an expensive car. Fuel consumption obviously, which was around 40mpg and now l am getting near 70mpg. BMW servicing costs were eye watering so really had to go independent. Rear air suspension only lasts about 50K miles, maybe a bit longer if you are lucky. My local garage (very trustworthy) warned of a few things that commonly wear out when you start hitting higher mileages i.e. over 80K. For a car of that class l would not regard 80K as high! When l ran the Octavia Estate l only started to spend real money over 150K.

On my ridiculously short commute, I get between 12 and 15% better mpg using eco than I do with normal mode. Nothing scientific, just using the mpgomonitor.

My late 23 1.5TSi DSG is not like that. One of the smoothest I've had and I've had 12. I get gear number indicator on nearly all of the Virtual Cockpit displays.

Plenty members here with an ICE or Hybrid / PHEV have had their vehicles applying the brakes for no reason they as the driver knew off. Maybe the BEV,s as well. Not even a crisp packet, wildlife or reflections. VW chose to sort out VW,s or Audi,s before Skoda or SEAT and still have many having issues. Safety Critical. Full DVLA Recall. Over the air Update is not going to be cutting it. Maybe a Update from the DVSA / DVLA is what is lacking.

"officially" there is currently one recall for the EX30 so this appears to be voluntary (which is good) (of course a lot of the symptoms in the Autocar article may be related)

Southern Comfort was commenting on the common practice in the UK of not indicating lane changes (and its consequent impact on lane assist) I was agreeing, and added that even if you don't think there is a vehicle following, there is a reason for the mandatory requirement in the UK to indicate lane changes.

I drove the New Cupra Born VZ last week but only for 6 miles. Did about 4 standing starts. I liked very much.

Revolution counter, Speedometer cable 002409191B seems to be available but at the prices I'm not sure of the quality, I'd stick with factory original. I must admit I thought you were previously referring to the plate clamp. For your MoT and emissions if you service the car before and clean parts not normally included in a service (that's just about everything with Dealership/ garage/mechanic service as they just do an engine oil& filter change) this will help reduce emissions. So too will having the engine well warmed before the start of the MoT. I also suggest two full tank fulls of Tesco Momentum99 or Shell V-Power or similar for their added additional cleaning packages have the petrol so that it's being used before, during and just after the MoT. A couple of years back my over priced over valued old car called a "classic" failed it's MoT on something I forgot to check so I arranged for the retest as I was handed the fail note, when I went back the tester had passed duties over to a younger lad and we both chatted and watched as he checked the bit that had previously failed with the car on the lift. As as we did so a drop of oil fell on the young lads face and we laughed, bad mistake he added oil leak as an advisory. Technically that was incorrect but I let it go, next year I wiped the underside clean of any oil just before taking it in for the MoT. With an old British engine they say if it's not leaking then it means it's run out of oil. 🙂

Morning Berisford Picked mine up on Friday from Marshall's Daybrook. Not a pleasant handover!! Still waiting for communications regarding "goodwill payment" £200. Nothing to do with dealer, Skoda UK. Everythings gone quiet. Several emails requesting feedback. Sorry Skoda, money first before i give my HONEST review. Let me know if you get anywhere and i will do same.

Compulsory 'safety features' on a new car now in 2024 are different from even safety features on a new car from 2023. Speed limiter etc. So they might or might operate differently and 'turning off' or disabling them might be different, so you need to be in a car First Registered from July 2024 in the EU /UK before you will know. & vars in other World Regions might be different again.

The wheels fit. So just fit with the appropriate sized tyres,

So the dealer was right then

I’ve looked at it once when I first bought the car and never since.

Which parameter is this? Front camber can't be adjusted individually on each side, but can be equalised by loosening the front subframe,and shifting it left or right as needs be. VAG make a special adjuster tool for the purpose.

Well, well, that's a surprise, said absolutely no-one. Tax-take drops as compliance with emissions rises, and logically, sooner or later, there's no revenue from drivers and a public finance black hole to fill that is the size of the moon. So what happens then? Guess...

Thank you. I had it redone with dedicated electrics by a different company today so all sorted now thank goodness! Thank you for your advice.

Probably didn't clean the drive flange up properly and just slapped the discs on, unless you have a bearing on the way out.

Well I got a reply... "Matthew has read your email" "It's been passed to the Executive Team who will be looking into it as a priority" So let's see what happens.

Older models can be opened with a string. Newer models have a small cover around the locking pin, that might be harder.

Yes, there's a plastic cover inside the door. PM'ed

If the window is open a bit, I'd probably start with either a long bit of stiff wire, some pallet banding or even a bit of string and see if I can get on either a window winder, or a lock pin.

Have you sorted it?

Don't break anything, there are easiest ways. Car unlock when you have lost your key.

FWIW... Mines an October 23 model MC and looks similar. They get such little use as most of the weight transfers to the front. I've taken to pulling the handbrake on when slowing down every so often as it cleans then up a treat.

You don't need such an expensive dongle, go for an AliExpress one and you will be fine. I have being using this one (the usb stick format) since December and it is flawess https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eza2D8R The usb port shuts off shortly after you lock the car so no drain there

Hi team, I got a weird issue with the air conditioning which now happened twice in 2 weeks so I think it's a pervasive issue and not something unique. Both times it happened on longer journey 100km+. I have the A/C turned on and working fine, however after approximately 100km of driving it stops working. I mean it still gives cold air out of the ventils, however it's 70-80% weaker than it was. I tried to put the fan to maximum, did not help. Tried to lower the temperature, did not help and soon we had a 30 degrees in the car as the air outlet was very low. Once stopped for 15-20 minutes and restarted the car, it worked fine again. Its very annoying as we plan to to travel to Croatia which will be 700km but without A/C and kids it will be a big problem. Any ideas how to fix? Thank you.