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Yes if you have a drive mode button and put it onto individual you can set air con to normal or eco. Also the plug A on the condenser can be faulty from factory so there is and update for plug and seals.

that is insane and as you rightly mentioned so ineffective in the long run. but hey since when did politicians have commen sense

I believe its their way of expressing, perhaps speaking out load without thinking/reading/reflecting what they post, I have unwittingly fallen foul of it several times. Once I responded to a question directed to me with words to the effect of "how can I possibly answer a daft question like that" they said it was not intended for me (yet they had directly quoted me) but for the forum in general, not that anyone could have had an answer to it. Amusing that you were accused of picking a fight when you were being polite by replying and trying to defuse the situation, reminds me of the blokes in pubs that used to say aggressively "You looking at my bird?" and if you say no then they give an even more aggressive "why not? whats wrong wiv er then!"

This is mine today. Close up it looks very sparkly, but not so much from a distance. Still the best orange car colour, compared to other makes.

Regarding rentals, I hired a car from Europcar at Faro airport. They had a row of AC charge points at pick-up location. On pick-up, also advised how to public charge (use Miio app) and Tesla car's supercharging/return SoC policy. This is the way to do it properly. I rented a "Tesla Model 3 or similar", got a 2023 long range made in China car. It's slightly smaller than my Model Y, but I think it's ample for our needs. One thing I didn't like is the lip in the front footwell just behind the pedals. It is obvious that's where the battery begins. Resting my foot flat on the battery whilst on autopilot feels like my knees were in my chest. Best part of rental is that there is absolutely no fuel cost. Tesla supercharging is part of package and I can return the car at any charge level. I drove ~450 km in total, due to using "keep climate on" feature a few times, I needed a quick 10min top up at supercharger. Picked up at just over 90%, returned at 20%. Only costed me £180 all in for 5 days (didn't pay for rip-off additional insurance of course, got a £40 annual hire car insurance insurance). Car also had on-going premium connectivity, so in-car music was instantly sorted with ad-free Spotify. https://www.europcar.co.uk/en-gb/p/car-rental/fleet/brand/tesla Hiring a petrol car and driving 280 miles would have cost £40 in fuel alone at 14p/mile in UK, Portugal fuel prices look similar in number (~1.50 euros per litre). Similar <£200 price automatic petrol cars are Polo or similar size. £150 could only get a petrol auto super-mini when I was booking. Needing automatic made rentals expensive. There's a few minor things Europcar could have done better. Software running on it was about 6 months out of date. The computer vision parking assist was not as good as latest software in my car. So I paired my phone and sat in the car for 30min to download the update. Europcar reps also did not understand nor had procedure to give me Tesla app access to the car, so every time returning to the car needed to wait a minute or so for air-con to cool the car and needed to fish out the keycard to lock/unlock/drive. Thankfully I was able to pair my own Tesla keycard with the car giving us 2 keys rather than 1. (deleted it when returning of course) That family friend who drives GLC with us to Scotland went to Lisbon first, met with us for 2 nights. They rented a "Zoe or similar" EV from Europcar, got a Jeep Avenger. But experience was not as good, it was their first time driving EV. During the drive from Lisbon to south coast had problem starting a charge using Portugal/Spain's Miio app due to mobile network coverage. They are also required to return at 50% or higher. Hotel had 4 AC charge points and it works with my Shell recharge card, around the corner was 2 AC charge points that works with Octopus Electroverse. So they kept the car topped up without trouble once they got over here and I lend them my cards. Interesting how AC charging payment works over there: 20c connection, 10c per minute and then 15c per kWh. The time element made sure people moved their car and the charge point was always available. I like it.

ah these were the days lol

Well, despite the original "no", the after sales manager has had another go, and the result has been a lot more favourable this time. Hopefully I'll have the car back before too long

Just a tip if you are buying a new wheel... If you buy a genuine wheel starting with 3V0601025 it is classed as a normal car part. Whereas if you buy a 3V0071498 wheel this is from the optional extras catalog and the wheel is the exact same - albeit with sometimes a 40% price reduction. If you google the skoda catalog for accessories for this age youll find a PDF with all the wheels - find yours on there instead of the original code.

After 9 months finally got this view for my Superb 2015 1. Steering wheel 2. MIB 2 -> 2.5 convertion 3. Gateway 5Q0 -> 3Q0907530AC 4. And now I've installed AID

It’s been a while 😳 the car has been through a lot, now running 365bhp/ftlbs on a K04and mapped at badger 5, engine bay looks less OEM to help get some power, and loose some of the newly generated heat, I’ve been to the ring in it, done a few days out, it drives absolutely spot on, it launches savage with the DSG box, and on a whole it’s been fairly faultless 😬 the grip is phenomenal in comparison, esp on exit of corners, it just puts power down with no hassle. Sorry I haven’t been very active on here, I’ve been off forums for a while now, family and life in general are half the reason, and unfortunately face book as it’s where a lot of stuff has migrated as much as I despair as forums are a brilliant place full of info and knowledge. A bit later on I’ll try to get some pics up, it’s been a journey, I just tried to upload 25 photos but computer said no, I forgot some of the stuff I’ve been through on the way 🤣🤣

My local enterprise does not give you the car full and asks you to bring it back with the gauge in the same place as it is on the photograph they take when you pick it up. They have no re-fuelling on site.

I was just about to put this! I know some cars don't always have this option but in driver modes I can set my air con to economy or normal.

In the set up menu, have you got it on the strongest setting?

If it's anything like the heated screen in Mrs Cakemonster's Mini Countryman it can be replaced by the usual suspects, but, they almost certainly won't have one in and it , and it may have to go into one of their depots to be done - depending on what cameras you have/need calibration etc.

There is an Article kicking about with statistics with the areas with the lowest take up of EV,s. Registered in that area. I spotted Blackpool, Orkney & Dundee in the top 10 of the lowest take up. (That can be a nonsense way to count EV,s if you go by First Registrations in an Area like Orkney but it has Used Cars that get bought and taken there.) Then i spotted that among the lowest number of EV,s per chargers they have Dundee. I need to get a proper read of that because someone seems to have missed the figure might be because Dundee City has so many chargers.

Skoda came back yesterday to ask me to try downloading and extracting ECE 1 again and it seems to have worked without any errors now. Not tried it in the car yet, but touch wood the issue has been resolved by Skoda.

@freemansteve you mean the wheel arch liners, not the mud flaps 😅 @MickA I am curious about the plastic parts and clips for the rear mud flaps. Do you have any photo of how they are installed? Clips are really tight and instructions have a photo of a hammer 🔨 😅 it looks like the plastic piece are not study enough to hammer those metal clips. Very strange, a photo would be great.

yup and the nice thing is its a new bodyshell so no classic cars were harmed (although given the price on a Real gullwing.................)

It's purely an indication to tell you the DSG gearbox selector is locked and you need to put your foot on the brake to be able to move the lever into D etc.

Go to a dealer or an independent with online access to the Skoda corporate servers is the only way.

Does it beep when it decides to stop lifting the tailgate? I'm only asking because you might need to take a small (not too small) step back. When the car "knows" you're too close to the rear bumper, it stops the opening process to avoid hitting you in the face with the lower side of the tailgate.

Two people, each with block of wood and hammer; opposite sides of ring, co-ordinate timing to hit at same time.

The new clutch was sold as a set and the code on it confirms that it belongs to this vehicle. There is no way to install the friction disc upside down, I tried it, the middle protrusion part touches the flywheel bolts and you cannot replace the pressure plate in this way, it is immediately obvious that something is wrong. I am about to receive the Sacsh brand clutch set. I will replace all of them again this weekend. The friction disc, pressure plate and pressure bearing. I hope it will not slip this time. I have a travel plan of approximately 2500 km. If it slips, I have to go uphill in 1st and 2nd gear. Fuel consumption also increases considerably.

You have a mixing flap problem (or duct sensor) which is mixing hot air with the cold(er) air from the evaporator, that will not be helping. Now I know you have the new "greener" and far less efficient cooling gas which is always combined with an underpowered AC system (to minimise the amount of greenhouse gas) I know that your expectations that the system should work as well as the previous R134a (which aint up to much itself compared to R410 and freon) are way off the mark, you are comparing apples with tonsils. It will get a little better when the mixing flap problem is resolved, it might get a little better if recharged but with 40° ambient temperatures you are going to have to learn to work with its limitations and not push so much airflow through when at idle and when moving off after getting into the vehicle that has been stood in the sun, you need to consider it to not have AC, to choose shaded areas to park, use sunblinds, leave windows open etc. You should see the condensor fans commanded at more than 38% when at idle using the AC to the max (high ambient temp, high blower speed, min temp selected, it may take a couple of minutes to ramp up to it, I have no knowledge of the new gas and its operating characteristics other than everyone unfortunate to have an AC system with it considers it barely capable in frigid UK summer temperatures.

I want to mention that not only the engine cooling expansion tank could have a silikat bag but the AC system also has a dryer that contains pretty much the same material inside it in form of small balls, so maybe you are right about something being clogged up.

Only one cable goes from the BCM to the rear and is then slid to all four lights

Is that the hill hold that goes off after a couple of seconds of holding or when you hold the brake pedal to move out of park? Green lights are nothing to be worried about - it's just for information.

The key thing is the after evaporator temperature, 5.7°c with an outside air temp of 40°c is excellent, putting the fan on high increased it to 25°c confirming your thoughts that the system does not have enough power to cope with the refrigeration demand on full blower setting. That could indicate a low refrigerant charge but I think that your pressure is correct, the stupid VAG/VCDS set up reports absolute pressure and not gauge pressure so you can deduct 1 bar/15psi from your figures, the figures that you have read on Youtube are almost certainly for an ambient temperature of 20°c. R134a static system pressure (guage pressure not absolute pressure) will rise from 70psi at 20°c to 130psi at 40°c, the high side pressure when system running with an ambient temperature of 40°c will be between 180 and 225psi, that is a figure to cover all vehicles and the variable output VAG type with the modulating valve will be lower than this unless under maximum load, my gauge measurements at 20°c vehicle idling at standstill show the high side pressure rising to 150psi at which point the fans cut in and it drops to 100psi, this falls within the range given on the R134a tables of 100-150psi at 20°c. Are the fans running correctly on your vehicle? Your system will never have enough power to cool your car right down when idling with 40°c ambient temperature, if you look at the figures the air coming out of the vents has dropped by over 25°c at the lower fan setting, aside from the sticking flap mixing hot air to the left vents I say your system is working perfectly, it was designed for average European temperatures probably biased towards the cooler countries. If you want maximum cooling on maximum fan speed you need to drive the car at speed. Most of us have gradually worked these things out, we know high fan speeds at standstill create less cooling, when my car has stood in the sun I leave the windows open initially, use the AC on min temp and fan speed 1, once moving I will switch up to fan speed 2 and close the windows, when the interior temp has dropped enough I will switch to recirculation mode and put the fan on the highest setting. I think you are expecting too much of your system and have a problem with the blending flap for the left hand side.

Is that an SE Drive or SEL you are driving? The SEL gets a fair hike in spec for the extra money especially if seating is important. If you are considering new then spec can be found here https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/c63f4efb-a760-4a48-931f-baad88d42aa6

That one was literally just around the corner from where I live. Whilst there’s no doubt it’s a sad event and the family are lucky to be with us until the actual cause is identified then it’s only supposition the incident was caused by the high voltage battery in this HEV. Many fires in all sorts of different vehicles are caused by faulty 12v electrics.

Never, probably. More likely to continue to get worse (cheaper, lighter, thinner, painted with more environmentally friendly paint).

Are you sure all three OEM part numbers (one for each colour) aren't on the back of the rim? This would enable Skoda to make one casting for all of the colours. The colour is applied after the alloy rim is cast. OEM part numbers for 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 alloy rim ZENITH (from Superb MK3 parts catalogue) 3V0601025F 8Z8 3V0601025AE HZ9 3V0601025AG JX2 Note that the below alloy rim has 3V0601025AG JX2, 3V0601025AE HZ9, and 3V0601025AD HA7 cast into the back of it, even though it's just a 3V0601025AG JX2 alloy rim. This shows that Skoda makes just one casting for a range of different colours. 3V0601025AG JX2 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 alloy rim ZENITH 3V0601025AG JX2 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 alloy rim ZENITH (note the 3V0601025AE HZ9 cast into it) 3V0601025AG JX2 8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 alloy rim ZENITH (note the 3V0601025AD HA7 cast into it)

Update: so I just went with it, and everything was a nice fit, completely identical to oem, but included 6 connecting bolts where not correct for my car, only the larger hub axle bolt was compatible. For anyone with the same questions. There doesn't seem to be any difference between 6 and 7 speed DSGs in regards of the CV axles.

My (not) retirement present to myself was a Bosch drywall screwdriver and bandolier feed (called a mitrailleuse = machine gun in French). I havn't done any drywalling yet but an unfinished unjointed section now has hundreds of screws in one of the uprights, takes me back to my childhood when my carpenter father fixed a piece of wood on the side of one of his workbench legs and said that I was allowed to bang nails in there and nowhere else. Well into his retirement he was cutting wood by hand and coming across the infant JR's hidden nails punched under the surface 😒

Company on ebay selling cheaps spares - which is fine - you get what you pay for. However, this company doesnt respond well to any warranty claims do best to avoid like the plague. The ebay reviews are possibly fake. Check out Trustpilot instead. https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.carsparesdirect.com or Yell. https://www.yell.com/biz/carspares-direct-london-8081423/ I have raised complaints with ebay and trading standards

Fronts are really easy, piston can be pushed in with water pump pliers. Rears require a wind back tool.

I've owned multiple 2CVs in the past (including a Van) and they are simply awesome. Ok they can have issues with the honeycomb floor structure rotting out but the chassis is a relatively easily swapped out item and many of them now have had upgraded chassis fitted. Also worth putting in electronic ignition. Doddle to work on, the bonnet slides off with no tools (so do the doors) and only 4 bolts hold each of the front wings on then you have the whole engine sitting in front of you. Excellent vehicles in the snow and also have a starting handle

If ACC is particularly important to you, a retrofit is usually possible and may be worth considering.

Looks like a Polestar2 But built on a VW platform Not what was hoped for

Forget the warranty. It is not your problem and all the hoops and excess and limits applied and T&Cs - it may amount to nothing. The selling dealer is on the hook for first 6 months without question to repair it PROPERLY. If they can't repair it properly it will be a refund. If you had of raised in the first 28 days you could have gone straight to refund. I say again, do not engage with the insured warranty process it will only likely distract and end in little or no satisfaction. You are under no obligation to claim on their insured warranty.

The old Skoda outside in her natural habitat just beading away YOU REALLY HAVE TO LOVE THE ENGLISH SUMMER

Update: Orders from Monday the 8th of July will include the Webasto so then my car will finally be ordered. Expected delivery early October

Did you flush out the fuel system and refill it with fresh fuel?

The MK3 Octavia never got an electronic handbrake so they are normal calipers 👍

i don't mind being old then as I like flaps on Gandalf 😁 ads

Mudflaps are not only something for seniors and also have nothing to do with tuning or gimmicks. Their real purpose is to protect the body of the vehicle from mud damage and, above all, from small stones and other foreign objects that are thrown up by the tires and thrown at the body and paint of the car with considerable speed and force. This can cause damage that, in my opinion, is much more unsightly than the mud flaps themselves.

The display you listed is for MIB1 Amundsen, it will NOT work with your unit as you have Amundsen MIB2. The display you need is 5E0919605J or 5E0919605H (no NAV and traffic buttons but will work) or 5E0919606. Diplsya units 5E0919605M and 5E0919605N will work OK except APP button inactive (unldess you upgrade your glove box unit at least to SW 03xx).

Finally got round to taking some pictures

Do you have a dashcam?