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Looking like decent sized EV's are reaching realistic prices (admittedly not RRP) ............. https://www.hotukdeals.com/share-deal-from-app/4404912

The 1.8 and 2.0 petrols don't have a cambelt, they have a chain. The smaller 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 and 1.5 petrols all have the new extended interval - and as the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine do NOT require that to be changed at the same time!

We had a Sparrowhawk join us for dinner yesterday. We had pizza, he had starling: Phone on full zoom - didn't want to disturb him. Got a video too, but it's a bit grisly. G

Tonight's sunset.............

It might be on 'Škoda Recall Campaigns'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns You can also check for more major recalls on the bottom of the 'Check the MOT history of a vehicle' result page. - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

I got my 3D printed part back from that company in Combermere, near Whitchurch, UK. It's an excellent facsimile - and feels every bit as robust as the original corresponding Skoda part. Here are some photos of both parts side by side. The 3D Printed one is the one in each case with the slightly grainy texture to it, but obviously this doesn't affect it's function. Actually, putting them both back into my tonneau cover, the new 3D printed one seems to be a better/ more secure fit. The original is a bit loose. They said they would put the item up on their Sketchfab page so that people can place the specific order directly for this part. But until they send me the link for that, here's the link to their homepage. They charged me £39 all in (including VAT and P+P) which seems very reasonable, considering I was looking at entire replacement tonneau covers starting at £80 from eBay for beaten-up breaker's yard offerings.

Quick update. Pollen filter replaced today for £40 at the cost charged to Skoda brand MK. It would appear Skoda have changed the software so for an All In One policy you can only have the pollen filter replaced on the major service. That is despite if the service schedule states it should be done sooner. Poor software? Poor implementation? Without seeing the software who knows. Ultimately poor management. The fact that Skoda brand has paid for it says they have messed up and I hope they tweak the software to allow for the filter to be changed when scheduled. I also got a rather impressive Hamper as a gesture of goodwill which mitigated my annoyance of having to drive 30 minutes each way to the dealer. Case closed for me but again my trust in Skoda management and processes damaged.

I would have thought that a fault code scan would show something strange in the engine ECU? There are several briskoda members with e.g. VCDS willing to do scans for beer tokens see https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/page/5/#comment-5856576

Hello, everyone, let me extend my greetings to all of you, the wonderful members of this forum. My name is Ondra, I'm 23 years old and I come from the very home of most Škoda cars, the Central-Bohemian Region of the Czech Republic. My car is the one found in the attached picture, a petrol green 2001 Škoda Felicia LXi ("Trumf" edition), which is powered by the 781.136M engine (AKA 1.3 MPi 50kW / AMH). It's been nicknamed "Mel" because of the original license plate combination. I'm looking forward to learning something new from you all, as well as perhaps using some of my own knowledge to help some of you in return.

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

**SOLD** Make & Model: 2013 Skoda Octavia Mk3 Estate, 1.6 TDI Elegance Colour: Blue Mileage: ~135'000 Price: £3700 Description: *** Now MOT'd and had some work done! *** Blue, 2013, Elegance spec (1 from top) Estate, it has half leather interior, 8" columbus sat nav, upgraded speakers, bluetooth hands free, satnav, factory DAB and most of the toys you'd want - auto wipers, auto lights, adjustable lumbar (very comfy seats!), heated windscreen and heated seats. Free to tax and 74mpg! Both original keys included, MOT until 16th October 2025. This has been my daily driver for the past 5 years, my 3rd Skoda, replaced with a 4th! Only up for sale now thanks to a deal I couldn't say no to on a hand-me-down 2018 Superb. It's been in the family since it was ~4 yrs old, when my dad became it's second owner. Drop me a line on 07828 288 697 Condition: Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: I was planning on running it into the ground, so not kept great records, but it's been serviced regularly either by a local garage or yours truly! Oil (correct spec, fully synthetic) and oil filter every year, air and cabin filters cleaned annually and replaced biannually. Fuel filter and timing belt / water pump and a couple of brake discs were done ~4 years ago. Belt recommendation is 130k miles or 5 years, so due in another year on time, not miles - though on the continent, the recommendation is 210km, with no time limit - so it's up to you! Battery was replaced with the correct AGM type in 2020. There is no DMF to replace (or cause problems!) on this variant of the engine, though it could use a new clutch - it's not slipping at all though, so no urgency. Just today have picked it up following some work done at a local garage - fresh MOT (good till October 2025!), new front brake pads, and a service - oil change (fully synthetic 504/507) new sump plug, air and cabin filters. I've also had it cleaned inside and out and polished! A great daily driver! Extras/Mods: It has a quality tow bar fitted, by a local specialist, with hookup, at least 1 key and even (I think, in the bag!) the manual. Original bumper bracing bar, removed for the fit, also included, as shown in the boot! It only ever towed a cycle rack. It's had an aftermarket stereo in it for a while, which I've now replaced for sale with the factory Columbus unit. However, I left the 1080p rear parking camera and additional microphone in place, and am including an add-on, ultra-widescreen Android Auto / Apple Carplay device, which you can use alongside the factory radio to add that functionality. Alternatively, I think you can wire up the camera to the original radio, though I never tried myself. Shipping: No shipping! Collection: From a village near Ely, Cambridgeshire, CB7 Pictures:

Just dropped off my Karoq for a service and they said they were going to be doing a BCM update, part of a national free campaign. I may ask a bit more on my return but wondered if anyone else knew about this? My ears peaked when they said 'national' and 'free', which made me think this is fixing something that would otherwise potentially become quite messy for Skoda. The way it was described, it didn't even sound as though it was necessarily restricted to just Karoqs.

Happy for you, hope that the Audi proves to be a good mile muncher, it should be good for many more miles still.

We both test drove it this evening. All good, so going to take it off his hands in a couple of weeks' time. Needs rear brakes, but I'm happy to sort that myself. Anyone want a Polo?

The 13 plate has colour info = Exterior color / Paint Code H3 / Q5W The 11 plate is 3U/ F8K Not a match, I'd say.

The "online maps" is a subscription service if I understand correctly. You get 3 years free from a new car & then must pay for to continue the "over the air" updates. You can always perform the update yourself manually by downloading the files from the Skoda Update portal and using a memory stick to install it in the car. Enter your VIN number here to get the list of available downloads: https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/en-GB

Yes, your car has PR code 0EG which is defined as 'installation differentiation for transmission DQ200', Transmission code is UYV (gearbox code within the DQ200 family).

So dodgy insulation which could cause a fire of it breaks down, no replacement of battery but instead software update that will monitor the battery and if it identifies an insulation breakdown (presumably voltage drop from internal short circuit) it will discharge the battery to below 30% SOC. I would not like to be behind the wheel when it puts the heater on full and deploys full throttle against maximum braking knowing that while this is happening the battery is going into thermal meltdown, they should at least fit an ejector seat 😄

Good luck with that

Can look up later for you, or tomorrow morning.

My 23 SEL with Varioflex seating came new with a rail on each side and one hook on each side. I since added two more to have two hooks on each side. My workmates 23 Sportline with standard seating came with one rail on one side but had two hooks on the rail.

Free because it is a Recall Action / Service Campaign. You should just have asked the person to go find out. Your answer is probably in the Karoq section , the Octavia section etc.

I didn't even get one when I bought my new MY20 car, but have added two since. If the parking ticket holder is missing, I wonder if the windscreen has been replaced? Chris

Dont they all have the PRV? An inexpensive combustion gas "sniff tester" will confirm a head gasket or EGR cooler failure.

That's interesting glad it's not just me, I was also using an android Samsung. I gave up on it, pity really sadly the car is not getting an awful lot of use thanks to the loony London mayor. Way to good to scrap hoped it might be useful to someone way outside London as it's a 4x4 and winter not to far away sadly. But hey ho

6U0959455A with this code they sell radiator fan motor with 6 and with 4 blades too !

Done! :)

Not a bad price if ready to move on a new car. My sister paid a grand more for a 6 month old one last year, so she's not going to be best pleased. Leasing prices are coming down, probably due to volume discounts by the manufacturers. Lease prices are looking more attractive than PCP presently. I could get an ID.7 tourer for £90 less than I was paying for the ID.4 PCP in 2021.

Berisford Don't be too hasty in getting your coat, I have not done the miles yet to see if its fixed it. Might have to wait until I do a long journey to know for sure, next one due is back to Solihull at end of September. I will update on any changes.

@theNFS25 as you already have seen @Thefeliciahacker has work on this matter, you can also ask for help from a fellow country man the @Papez is Czechian too. I have the same model and i have changed the radiator fan, also keep in mind that there are 2 radiators fans motors for warm and cold climates, radiators for vehicle with a/c or no.

I used to have a 53 plate Audi A4 Avant 1.9TDI 130PD GmbH edition which was 100% reliable and a great mile muncher. Even after a chip tune I could still get 700 miles from a tank full of the smelly stuff. Just hankered after a V8 so I swapped it for an S4 Avant with a 4.2 V8!

The accessory belt rotates at engine speed so it can't be that.

I happen to be driving a '53 plate A4 Avant 1.9 TDi 130PD as a replacement for my '53 plate Octavia 1.9 TDi 130PD... same awesome engine, basically, but a far more gentle, subtle drive. The Octavia was a raw driving experience by comparison, a car you could throw around and abuse a little without worrying. The Audi feels far more refined and encourages a more sedate, softer approach to driving. You can still hoon around if you want, but it feels good to just relax and take it easy. I miss a few of the luxury Octy options, but that was from an L&K trim. The Audi isn't quite at the same level and the interior has some kind of plasticote coating that seems subject to wear, but it has other qualities to make up for it. The suspension is wonderfully overengineered and feels great! I do miss the 'fighter jet' green interior/dash lights, but the red is alright especially if you turn the brightness down a little.

Only OBDEleven and carista (for the cheaper phone based apps) have the SFD unlock allowed by VAG - one of those two is what you want, and for my money it’s OBDEleven

Hi Sona, welcome to Briskoda.

I went with a Givenergy All-in-One, similar specs but slightly cheaper and also Octopus can manage it if I choose to let them. For the moment though I'm using a Python script on an old laptop, could use the Givenergy app too but prefer the slightly more granular control I get with the script. It also has a gateway (mentioned elsewhere) so in the event of a power cut it'll supply up to 6kw continuous (for about 2 hours before batteries go flat), even without solar generation e.g. at night.

Hello Jim, welcome to the forum. Are you aware that Skoda UK no longer state 5 year replacement intervals for cambelts?

If it was me I deffo wouldn’t worry about it. I’ve recently topped up the AC gases in two cars of mine as the AC wasn’t playing. The chap doing it asked when one of the cars (57 plate Jazz) was last topped up, I said 15 years ago in China when the car was put together. The other one needed regassed at 13 years. At 2 years old a car should deffo NOT need anything done to the AC, it’s classic milking the owner for all they can. My Karoq’s AC gases were put in the car 5 years ago, it then sat in various fields for 9 months before I bought it and all is well with the AC.

Battery purchased from Halfords website and fitted at one of their depots. Technician cleared all faults and told bms about battery. Strangely enough when I started the car to go there, it told me that the bonnet was open, it wasn't, I got out to check. Will give it a few weeks and see if anything comes back up. Got a good deal on battery using Halfords trade card, well worth it if you qualify for one.

Just returning to this thread to update it - and to say thanks for all the input. When I first saw the Christmas Tree of warning lights I feared the very worst, but the problem was exactly as stated here by so many knowledgeable people - a failed ABS sensor. If I had any mechanical skills it would have been a relatively cheap job, but I don't, so it was a dealer job. £120 for the diagnostics and £500 for the job (including bearing). I know a non-franchised garage would have done it for less (and who knows whether the reported corrosion on the ABS ring really necessitated changing the bearing as well as the sensor?) but we don't have one round here any longer post-Covid so it wasn't really an option. And, rightly or wrongly, I do trust this particular dealer. Anyway - thanks for the information, guys. It was invaluable and reassuring.

You don't need to do the ABS Bleed Procedure to do a normal brake bleed. However if you have got air in the ABS unit then that's the only way to clear it and regain your hard pedal. I've found many garages don't even know what you're talking about when you ask them to do an ABS Bleed diagnostic procedure. I've even been conned by one who went yeah, yeah, yeah and didn't do it as charged and the car came back still wrong, until I did it myself. So if the garage did get air in the ABS, probably by letting the reservoir run dry while normal bleeding then doing a diagnostic ABS Bleed is the only way to resolve it. A normal brake bleed won't help at all. On my Yeti I did that procedure by getting all bleed nipples accessable, plug on a pressure bleeder and do the process. In retrospect I only needed both fronts accessable but an earlier Skoda Roomster needed all 4, so I was prepared for whatever the PC requested. You need a few litres of fluid but it's a straight forward process and immediately returns a hard pedal. I normally found the symptoms before are if the engine is off then you can pump a hard high pedal, but start the engine and the pedal then sinks down a lot. A little sink is normal due to the brake servo, but with air in the ABS it sinks a lot more.

Here are 2 available: https://rrr.lt/en/cars-list/skoda/felicia-i-1994-1998/fuel-mixture-system/carburettor-mono-injection/carburettor

check the current fuel consumption on the display, all depends on model. i have many times read, D + Auto Hold must be same as N, but that doesn't refers to my 2.0 TSI 280ps DSG7 DQ351, where i can feel strong load to the engine when standing in D, no matter of Auto Hold state consumption in N is dancing around 1.1 liters/hour, while in D/E around 1.5 l/h as result, for 1 minute + red lights i simply move to N and Auto Hold is always Off, to avoid annoying bongs at move D->N

Glazes (aka Showglazes) don't have any protective aspects on their own. They're generally fillers to mask the effect of swirlmarks and add gloss, but generally they don't have any real bonding capability. Put some on with a polishing machine and you'll be taking it back off again after a couple of passes. As a topic about different types of protection, glazes don't make the cut but I could put an additional thread with other bits in. SRP, as popular a product as it is, is generally fillers and a wax element to it. The fillers will do the masking, and fill in some swirlmarks, then the wax element will hold it in place for a little while; a month tops if the car's being used in dry weather. Chuck in heavy rain and muddy, salty roads (ie the worst conditions) and you can lose the lower half in a day's driving I'd say.

Well 2 weeks ago Wednesday was a bad day for my project. Someone decided to slam the brakes on half way out a junction. And I ran into the back of them. She is currently at the bodyshop waiting for the rebuild.

Hi. I'm a 3D designer and got a request for exactly the same part for Skoda a7. I found this forum due to was looking for the already designed model, but no luck. I any case. I'll create it from scratch in a few days and will be able to share it for a moderate price in case you have friends with a 3d printer I made the same trunk part for A5 6 months ago and it is a real bestseller on a local market

Wanted to take this opportunity to give a big shoutout to @varooom & @Rainesh for all the above and beyond assistance provided in this thread. I recently purchased a Skoda on a 22 plate which wasn't compatible with my Samung s23 Ultra when using Android Auto. Based on the information kindly shared in this thread, I took the challenge and upgraded from SW train 1760 to 1800. My Samsung S23 Ultra is connected immediately after upgrading with Android Auto . Very happy with the outcome... I did connect the battery to a charger, too as I was paranoid of bricking my system It took me a few attempts to prepare the USB drive so that the car could see the files on it, as I initially had the wrong folder structure. If anyone is unclear, I copied the unzipped files from 'MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800.zip' to the drive (Important to note, this is the version for my SW Train) with the folder structure (One main folder and two subfolders) /MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800/Meta /MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L_1800/Data To prepare the USB drive, plug into drive into a windows pc, open 'disk management' and format the USB drive with 'filesystem' 'exFat', and unzipped as above. Thanks for all the helfpul comments..

After a few years away from Skoda, driving a BMW, I'm back with a Race Blue Skoda, this time and Enyaq 60 Edition. Delivered a week ago and loving it so far!