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The northern lights were quite stunning in the Scottish Borders by all accounts. ( I can’t spell ori boriolus..) Too knackered to bother with them tbh as we’re flat out on a property conversion and will be homeless if I don't get my finger out, with a potential buyer for one and another not finished. Also the reason for not much togging lately. We are taking a day off next Sunday and heading to Knockhill for some Rally Cross. Looking forward to posting some mediocre shots of the local scrotes smashing their Poxhall Novas around a dirt track.. In the meantime a camera phone shot taken last night on the way back from the kebab shop.

@MP74 if you had checked where the oil was when cold and you collected the car and then at normal operating temp you should know how much oil it used to get back up showing the same. Needing to top up oil after 5,500 miles is fine if you did not check.

Cheers mate, yeh they look quite similar to mine in honesty. It was around a litre for 1500 miles, I've recorded the mileage now and will check the level again in around 1000miles to see how it is

Hi! I'm getting 18 yo this month and bought my Octavia 1 at the beginning of this year for about 400€ Since then i have slowly been building n fixing it up, and even applied some customizations to it. While diagnosing all the different problems, i came across this forum and i have been looking to join it ever since but i haven't had time to do so before. I never even considered buying a skoda before but now i did, and i can say that i kinda even like this car. I kinda hated the look of my car at the start but since it costed pretty much nothing, i didn't even care. Now i have started to kinda love it sort of, even though my favorite types of cars are coupes and this is literally nothing like a coupe. So that's pretty much it. Looking forward to seeing what comes next. Here's a lil pic

Well I've done a very rough and ready job of it, but it's getting dark and I need the car tomorrow. It's fairly easy to do, once you know what you're doing. This video gets the light out, more or less. There are a couple of flies in the ointment, however. There are two pop-in plastic lugs that fit into the bodywork. You can see them on the left below. I needed to pry the light backwards with the thin pry tool to pop them out, as there's not much purchase on the lamp itself to pull it out. Beyond that, I tried unscrewing the five Philips screws, but they were "giving" in an odd way, and I had visions of undoing something that might subsequently move and be impossible to re-assemble, so I bottled it and took the 4 torx screws out and removed the bulb cluster out. So now I know how to change my rear bulbs at least, which is nice. The rubber seal you can see actually slots into the bulb holder, it just happened to adhered to the main lamp body when I split the two. To remove (most of the water) I started with a turkey baster, then when I'd got the worst of it out, I used a tea-towel, extra-long cotton buds and a useless pipe-cleaner. (Which reminds me, I need a better pipe-cleaner.) It's still pretty horrible, but it'll do for now and I know what to do to do a better job when I have more time to do it.

Specifically the Amundsen will only read sat nav maps off a Skoda or VAG SD card.

I’m pretty sure new engines will use a bit more and settle down, I believe people have said on here as well it’s almost leaving the factory low. IMO they should be topping to max during its inspection before leaving but don’t think they do

Marky's posts are very correct, it is very difficult to assess and provide an "unique" formula for ride/harshness/spec ... each person has its own way to feel and measure this. You have to go and try, trial and error, even for expensive things as tires. No other way. To each its own. The only thing you can be certain is on how strict if your MOT system, if you have some leeway, you can get around it. Martini above is from Latvia as well, if it worked for him, might do for you as well. I have chosen 94H on 17s for my winters, discarding multitude of 101/XL options. Again, each one makes its choices. Will see how they go this season, and this will give me some input for next year, as the summers are practically on their end-life (3y/45k km).

Possibly running lean, have you mapped your car?

Aurora Borealis visible again. This is from Eastbourne, 9:30pm: Gaz

Various manuals available to download here:

Yes. I have seen with my own eyes the results. I wouldn’t be happy with a SMART repair done on my drive. I agree however, that bad work can come from body shops as well. I had a repair done to a car I had years ago. Metallic silver Clio. I can only assume the guy who did it, completed the work in the dark. But I was young and didn't say anything. It will ultimately depend on each person. There are folk out there who think the £5 hand wash is “perfect”, for example. Hard pass for me.

No body pays list price, etc. But it's still worth noting that we have reached price parity on list price: https://electrek.co/2024/10/13/price-parity-is-here-new-stellantis-crossover-is-the-same-price-ev-or-ice/?

It might be worth getting in touch with a SMART repairer to get a price, that looks like it should be repair/repaintable rather than fitting a new one. Unless, of course, that part is removable and replaceable for less, I don't know that bit though.

I average about 25k miles a year that's why I said 18k and ignored the time interval. I will check as I'm not totally convinced they are right.

@mccririck You really best check that is correct for a PHEV with a 1.4 TSI. It is true for an ICE only vehicle. The reason to have the Service Manager or the Master tech check is for the terms of the Warranty. If a lease car and you do not care then just leave it, as you should have a record of who serviced the car and signed it off. PS. If they say Variable / Flexible Oil & Filter changes are ok then it is 18,000-20,000 miles or 24 months, not strictly 18,000.

Run a thin bead of silicon sealant between the coloured lens and white plastic maybe? Don't blame you at all for bottling it Time and place and all that jazz. Helped my Son change his rear trailing arm and blown shock (MOT failures) on the Sunday before I went to Bruges the next day. I pointed out to him before we started that if anything went wrong he was stuffed. A couple of simple errors were good for the adrenaline 🙄

Just a normal sort of working guy that needs transport and can charge at home. Millions of the same about the UK. & some make videos. EDIT. It is 80 kW DC / CCS charging not 50kW max & 11 kW AC on an appropriate connection. 3 phase. or that would be 7kW on a standard home box.

I think it's failed here, @Gaz. Thinking about it, it's been one of those "Huh! I don't like the look of that, but it's not causing any problems." things that I've put to the back of my mind. I assume it's not related to that hole a bit above the tip of the pink arrow.

Start with the throttle-body end of the steel EGR pipe. Nothing worth inspecting with the MAP. The only bit accessible after removing it is the intake temperature sensor part.

Is it only the nearside cluster that's affected? Any signs of condensation or damp in the boot/wheel well? Rear washer working okay? Gaz

Skoda will claim you used some acid to clean your car that is not covered under warranty (****ttttalk from em) But also this condition can appear much faster if you clean your car youself with pressure and are to close, with to close i mean (recommended lenght on pressure washer, do it yourself firm). Good luck! I know this problem sucks.... would be nice if someone figure out a solution (do it yourself) to get rid of the moisture.

I think is 1 4 2 3.

I thik i posted it. Isn't this?

Hi, no, not yet, still in garage. Mechanic will check the ABS connections on Monday. Please share your experience if you'll sort it first

So the current outstanding jobs as follows: Calibrate areaview - will try and do this in the next few weeks Check the coolant leak repair - will check this later today Possible alarm fault - the car alarm seems to go off in heavy rain - im guessing related to the KESSY door handles probably, but will look into this further. Ambient lighting fault - I get a sporadic code relating to the ambient lighting LINbus having a fault that will need looking into further. Since then ive done the following - I wasnt a fan of the plastic liner in the sunglasses holder scratching my glasses, so i went to hobbycraft and got an adhesive lined felt sheet for £1. Cut to size and fitted in place. I also preped the new Canton grills for the front doors. For door cards with the grills - they are £450 each new. I managed to find the wrong door cards, but the right grills. So these were purchased for £50 for the pair and the grills removed. Only issue is, all the tabs broke off. The solution - 3D print some new tabs and then epoxy them into place Now just to cut the door cards and fit these in place. I really should get some black PLA so it blends in better!

2 degrees C and not a breath of wind. 3 miles to the kW heading up into the glens. 4.1 miles to the kW coming back. Giving a 114 miles or so range from 100% and no AC on.

Thanks, I've put that in my playlist to watch tonight.

Although they are the NGK equivalent to genuine OE they were not genuine OE parts if that makes sense. The garage said sometimes there can be variations between the genuine parts and the aftermarket equivalent. They have fitted genuine now so I guess will see how they are in 1k miles.

- Or heat range of plugs incorrect, I.e. plugs too hot.

Let us know when you resolve the issue.

I have casco insurance but I don't want to use it for such small repair (150 EUR is deductible). I will try to contact few local car paint shops to see if someone can fix this easily, without deattaching the bumper. But when it comes to unofficial repair shops there is always concern about the matching correct color hue. This Skoda dealer I have visited should be one of the best paint shops in my country (it was private car paint shop previously and those guys were so good so Skoda acquired them). I just didn't have time to leave my new car in the shop for a few days. If I don't fins some reliable paint shop or don't try to fix it with the touch-up pant I'll probably wait for the next summer and then will go to the official shop. The scratch is not so visible, it looks more like a dirt, but it bothers me

There were MY21 Kodiaq RS TDIs: https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/skoda-kodiaq-rs-diesel-0d14407f-521b-497b-ac8b-68eecd5f8f71?sort=year&desc=0&lastSeenGuidPresent=false&cldtidx=5&position=5&search_id=w9mq6pcvtk&source_otp=t10&ap_tier=t10&source=listpage_search-results&order_bucket=unknown

Apologies that does play, Daft ones, clutching at straws, did you change the key battery and/or synchronise the remote/keyblade? Is your car KESSY less? Intermittent problems are even more of a PITA, sounds like you put keyblade into ignition barrel/switch, have checked its connections and wires? Tried using the other remote/keyblade? Always better to ask and/or do something twice than not ask and not do something or check it again. Sometimes a second pair of eyes (ears, nose, hands, brain) with you at the time can help (and sometimes not) with something you might miss.

Good I'm very happy for you, and of course your personal experience may just be down to the places and distances you drive to along with the actual range that your car is capable of providing you. Others with smaller batteries might not be sharing your opinion

A very nice Alpha Spider 1.6

Slow? Starter motor? I'd suspect either motor or battery, or charge into battery. You don't mention engine . I've got a 1.4TDI and I always use largest that fits. I'm on third battery in ,20 year old car. Get battery checked at somewhere like Kwick fit as well as charge rate. Engine cold will place heavier load on battery and excess resistance in solenoid will reduce volts to motor. From memory drop!across solenoid should be less than 0.5 volt. The starter is a motor, dependant on voltage ( under load) to turn fast. A poor battery/ bad solenoid / or poor connections / poor battery via ltage will cause starter to run slow when cold.

Not just a sheared wire between the car body and the hatch? Ie wire sheared but making when the hatched is open/partly open?

According to the guy from the official dealership, who sold me the car, diesel RS is more desirable due to consumption and specially for the the torque difference and there is not much of them on aftermarket.

Was it making noise when you just start the car and trying to heat or cool the car. Generally for me it makes noise at the start then doesn't make it. If it is, I will give a try as well. Also what oil you use to lubricate it?

Even in strict European countries such as Germany you can use a lower speed rated tyre than the car's top speed if it is winter rated. For example, a 150mph car can use 130mph tyres if they are winter rated...winter rated means the tyre has the 3PMSF symbol (3 Peak Mountain Snow Flake). However, you mustn't drive at more than 130mph on a 130mph speed rated tyre. In the UK, you can use different tyre sizes such as 215/65R16 instead of 215/60R16 provided the speedo doesn't under-read and the load index can support the weight of the car, etc. When I spoke to my insurance company, they said that one size different from standard was ok. This makes sense, because some tyre fitters will use the next size up if they don't have your size in stock. The 215/65R16 tyre size can be fitted to the standard 16" rim, ie. 6.5Jx16 ET41 5/112 57.1 The 215/65R16 tyre size will be in a different league when it comes to comfort than the 215/55R17 tyre size. You would probably have to over-inflate the 215/65R16 by at least 6psi to get a similar hard ride to the 215/55R17. However, all this is relative because a 215/55R17 is more comfortable than a 235/45R18. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 215/65R16 98H (Euro label B B 70dB) (3PMSF = winter rated) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s8008p221955/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_215_65_R16_98H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

55k miles. PO had Haldex service carried out at main dealer at about 30k (so possibly not clearing the strainer). I had it done by a specialist when I took ownership at 45k (for which they did pull the pump to do the strainer), Skoda did the same during a warranty investigation at 53k, and then new fluid again when the pump was replaced by the specialist last week so it's definitely well flushed. I probably could have pursued Skoda for the pump replacement but it wasn't worth the hassle, the specialist's bill was less than half what Skoda would have charged to do the job.

Been a busy few days so some down time and fish and chips at Eyemouth this evening.

So... a little bit of a tale (please skip to the end if you are short of nibbles and tea). In the summer I tore a rotator cuff, this led me to cancel off quite a bit of work. When I did resume employment (I'm self-employed), I figured as I'm somebody who doesn't do things half-heartedly, I might as well have a second go and totally bugger up my shoulder and tear the cuff further. Mission accomplished, I then cancelled loads more work. This has led me to being a bit skint Anyhoo, this time off has led me to looking at used camera gear and in particular, Wex was selling off loads of Canon 300mm F2.8 II's - presumably ex rental stock - a lens that is now discontinued owing to the RF range of lenses coming out (boy they are expensive). They were going for a decent price and although some were a little battered, they all came with a guarantee and a claim that they were all inspected. Unfortunately, I was a bit worried about cash flow, so missed the boat on that one, actually I also missed aquatic transport on the 400mm F2.8 and 400mm DO II 😞 Still with me? A short while ago I bought a Canon R6ii, a decent camera with phenomenal autofocus (although, don't get me started on the sensor read out speed being a real bind when doing fast tracking shots and using the mechanical shutter). This new purchase really made me regret missing out on those 300mm lenses, one that I have always coveted, especially as I've hired them before and it is by far the greatest bit of glass I have attached to my cameras. It's sharper than Jimmy Carr taking down a heckler! So it came as a slight surprise to find myself in a massive set of traffic jams travelling towards Sheffield this afternoon... ...and buying a used 300mm F2.8 ii from Harrisons in Sheffield. It's in superb condition, with only a tiny bit of paint missing off the tripod foot. The travel case for it looks like it was unwrapped from its protective film, only a matter of minutes before I got there. It is mint. If anyone lives near Sheffield and wants a used lens or camera, they have a great stock of the stuff and competitive prices too. I didn't have much interaction with the young saleslady, but she was very pleasant and as helpful as she could be. I don't think she is fully up to speed with all the numerous products Harrison's sell, but I doubt anyone could be. So the end of the story is, I spent money I don't really have, to grab one of the last really nice 300mms of its type left out there. I don't regret a penny of it and will now live on grass and rainwater for the next few months Its a shame I don't really have any projects I want to shoot left this year Still I don't care. I have my unicorn lens and it is so lovely, I'm going to name it Henry I think. I might never take it outside in case it gets dirty. I'm going off now to stare at it and talk to it in a sexy manner. I think I'm in love. Updated: now with sexy photos .

Visited Seaton Delaval Hall today - apparently the elliptical spiral staircase is an architectural nightmare. All the more impressive they managed to actually construct it all those years ago I guess. Apparently it's self supporting and each landing stone weighs 1.5 ton! Lovely gardens too 🌻 https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/north-east/seaton-delaval-hall

It's good practice to save the existing files on to a PC beforehand, so you have them as a backup.

I used to get this in my Mk3 when battery was low. Car used to turn off PDC and few other things till it was charged enough. The stop start batteries don't hold a full charge and a couple of days of non use can reduce charge that it might need to turn stuff off for a min

I ended up replacing the lower edges of both wings are they too were really rough. Like a Tea-bag! (See above pictures). Not like you'd know it from the exterior though. A dab of filler, seam sealer and primer after this.

Anyone seen or considering a charge point cover now we're heading into the wet and cold weather. No idea where to get one but seem like a good idea to prevent any possible water ingress or ice forming. Thoughts?

Just had another brilliant job done at WHEELS UK, located in Coventry. New wheels fitted. They do a top job on repair and refurbishment on alloy wheels.