Leaderboard

Did a bit of a "Shifty" business today on Gandalf 😁 It now matches the look n feel of the steering wheel and seats. Less than 5 mins to swap it over. Sourced from AliExpress. Nothing wrong with old, nor was it worn out. Was just time for a change. Left pair = new perforated ones Right pair = factory original ones Fitted...

I never trust tyre pressures set by garages, tyre places or gauges at petrol stations, on manual or electric pumps. Yes I have found garages and tyre places inflate to wrong pressures. Goggle shows 210 Kpa is 30.5 psi (rounded) so say 30psi (2.1 bar) and 245 is 35 psi (2.45 bar) so the 'eco' setting, so they've set to 'eco' setting, higher pressure giving less rolling resistance for more mpg, it does make a noticeable difference to the car rolling along the road (and perhaps handling depending on your tyres and style of driving). ETA: I always work in psi as I'm old and 30 (psi) or 35 is a lot easier to remember.

Most people don't check their pressures often enough. Some garages, to compensate put them to the eco / full load / high speed pressures. I often hear ' but they were checked at the last MOT ' 😉 Thanks. AG Falco

Unless you are loading the car up so need more pressure in the rear yures, try running the tyres at the 'eco' setting for a while and see how you get on with it. It's easier enough to let some air out if you don't get along with the 'eco' setting, you might notice some mpg difference on the long drive. Have a read of your car's Owner's Manual as it will be full of info that could save you time, money and hassle (whether this info is in it or not). Free VWŠkoda pdf downloads from their site if you don't have the very handy paper printed version. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I've never noticed the "1 bar = 100 kPa" on that label until I posted the photo in that post, how long I remember that is another matter. Good luck.

Hi all, A positive update for everyone. Happy to report I managed to fix this yesterday! I popped the switch out of the car and then removed it from the housing. Inside was a silicone cover with some contacts and a circuit board. There were a few black dots on the contacts, corrosion I assume? I used some isopropyl alcohol and cleaned both the silicone cover and the circuit board, then sprayed the board with the Servisol Super 10 (Kontakt) switch lubricant. Let it dry out then put the switch back together and back into the car. Worked instantly! Like I said before, I don't know cars or electrics but hopefully I've used the correct terms with how I've described it. I've attached two photos of the bits before I cleaned them if anyone is interested or it helps anyone in the future. Thank you to everyone that commented, really appreciate the input.

I really worry when I hear how infrequently some drivers physically check tyre pressures - and all fluid levels!

After 58k miles from new (and with no sunroof leaks) we are changing our Yeti. Still polishes up like new and 52+ mpg cumulative on the spreadsheet. Super car, travelled all over the continent, no short journeys - we use our Fiat 500 for those. Sorry to say goodbye but 8+ years old...... About to take delivery of a new Volvo XC40 Mild Hybrid B4 Ultimate. Will keep reading here daily and will post opinions as we start putting on the miles. Kind regards to all.

The 35.5 PSI sounds pretty good, 30 psi pretty low.

I’ve never heard of changing tyre pressures for different’ modes other then increasing the pressure in my winter tyres, so that’s good to know- thank you. Yes, I don’t know when I mentally switched to kpa instead of psi - these things sneak up on you sometimes 😀

The throttle controller doesn't change the idle rpm. As for the TCU tune - I have the APR DQ250 tune. Details here. I have the version that is targeted for the FWD (in my case 220 Superb), allowing "better" power delivery. It pairs nicely with my APR Stage 1 Hi-torque ECU tune. On the dyno it cranked out 223kw 530Nm, at the wheels, before I had the IE FDS v2 Intercooler installed.

A quick update to let you all know how this ended. We fitted a new wiper motor on Saturday and everything now works as it should. A bit of a so and so to change as you've got to undo the detachable part of the bulkhead to get enough clearance to remove the motor. We didn't undo it completely as it's covered in wires, pipes and sound deadening. We just removed the upper bolts and lent on it a bit to get some clearance. We still had to strip the linkage off in situ and extract it in bits, then assemble the new one inside the scuttle, but we got it done in the end and the wipers now work perfectly. I suspect the wiper motor is one of the first things that's bolted to the car when it's built. Last bit of useful info; the bolts holding the bulkhead in are T30. not T25 as per a you tube video of someone with a similar problem. Don't want to risk rounding them off and making the job even more difficult, Many thanks to you all for the help and support.

which is why I suggested using both would be better

I'm pretty fanatical about checking tyre pressures and the day after collecting my Skida Approved Used 1.0TSI Estate I checked to see what the pressures had been set to by the dealer. All 34psi which is what I would have expected for an unladen car with just driver and passenger (out old Fucus was 33psi all round). Checked the recommended pressures on the fuel flap and there are none given for only driver or driver and passenger, only 3-up with some luggage and fully laden. The quoted pressures are as you say. I tried then at the lower of the two for a day and the ride was awful with just me and the dogs in the boot. Far too choppy. Ever since I've set them at 34 psi all round unless loaded up and the ride is much better. The Tyre pressure sensor has to be set by you once your happy with them and just warns of any change outside a set difference. AFAIK it does not tell you if the pressures are correct, just uses wheel rotation to determine any changes from those set.

Glorious again this afternoon.........

Relative tyre pressures are very dependant on vehicle load and speed, but should match on the same axle - any tyre pressure label fitted on a vehicle is only a recommendation, not a legal requirement. IIRC, maximum pressure permitted is usually moulded into the sidewalls.

I just go with what it says on the fuel filler flap. That way if there's an accident I'm complying with the tyre pressures supplied by the manufacturer.

At 108,000 miles our Fabia 1.9 diesel started crunching when changing from 1st to 2nd and I assumed the worst.... New synchro at the very least. We've had it for 15 years, it's had 2 learners try to kill it and one even tried to engage 1st gear at 40mph so I assumed it was toast! Not so. I was told by a local garage that these gearboxes hardly ever fail so they changed the oil for modern synthetic and bingo. It's as if it has a replacement gearbox now! Might be worth trying if anyone out there has this problem.....

Wet and brown?

I didn't replace the whole thing - just the sides bits, as shown in my pic. Removing the whole thing is a different story, and definitely not a 5 min job. My factory shifter is still in good condition. I only changed it cause I fancied a change, but OEM+ To remove, using trim removal tools - pop off the top DSG plate, then pop the sides off, one by one. Once off, the new sides simply click into place.

If you want to stick to 17" wheels rather than go down to 16", then 225/55R17 could be a good option. It should give a noticebly better ride than a similar 225/50R17 as shown in the example below. Continental AllSeasonContact 2 225/50R17 98V XL (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Continental/AllSeasonContact-2/225-50-R17-98V-XL-EVc/D-127985 Continental AllSeasonContact 2 225/55R17 101V XL (Euro label B B 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Continental/AllSeasonContact-2/225-55-R17-101V-XL-EVc/R-499743 There are some winter tyres with a specification of 225/55R17 97H such as the two examples shown below. Continental WinterContact TS870P 225/55R17 97H (Euro label C B 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Continental/WinterContact-TS-870-P/225-55-R17-97H-EVc/D-124633 Michelin Alpin 7 225/55R17 97H (Euro label C B 71dB) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rshop/tyre/Michelin/Alpin-7/225-55-R17-97H/D-134907

I think I'm on my 7th or 8th DQ200 now, still have two. Plus a few DQ250's and DL501. I've had my fair share of issues on pre-2017 boxes with clutch pack and one mechatronic failure. Five warranty claims in total. Later DQ200's are noticeably smoother and more refined than the early models. I've had DQ200's on 1.0TSi, 1.2TSi, 1.6TDi and 1.5TSi. By far the best match is the 1.5TSi EVO2 and DQ200. But there's no doubt the DQ250 was more reliable if serviced and it was butter smooth with my 2.0TDi's and 2.0TSi. A shame it's no longer avialable and the replacement the DQ381 is now showing a few issues. The DL501 I had was in an Audi as that's a longitudinal layout coupled to a 3.0V6 TFSi. By far the best Dual Clutch transmission I've used but I've also had three cars with the ZH8HP conventional Auto (BMW and JLR). I'd have one of those over dual clutch any day of the week.

It's the 12 valve triple, thanx for your help!

Fantastic - thanks for that. Much obliged.

2k down, £359 x 24. Hyper green estate, no optional extras. Never leased before and didn't realise that car tax is in with the price, so could have specced it up to the maximum! Happy with how it'll come though, only option on my current one is DCC

Best as in for keeping clean? That's going to be a ceramic coating realistically. If you want them looking perfect, then you're looking at taking them off, refurbing and then doing the coating. However, if its not going to be a showcar and you just want looking good and keeping clean easily, then just removing and giving a thorough clean and decontamination and then coating. By decontamination, that involves: Pre-washing, Iron fallout remover, Contact wash with shampoo, Tar remover, Claying. If it was bodywork, then you'd want to machine-polish to get the clearcoat looking its best (removing the marring from, amongst other things, the claying process) but probably not completely necessary for wheel barrels given the lack of exposure. Otherwise/Also, I'd look at low-dust pads when you change (I've got ATE Ceramic pads on order as good reviews) and decent barrel brushes to clean inside when you do do it. Personally, I'm happy just keeping my clean with brushes when I clean the car.

Well done. So much servicing, maintenance and many repairs on cars, and other stuff, often just boils down to clean (and often lubricate). I'm not sure you needed to use the switch cleaner lubricant after the cleaning but I doubt it will hurt and might help with microswitches. Even clearing error codes with a scan tool is a type of cleaning, any good worker or tradesperson knows the value of cleaning. I've got to take apart a TV remote and clean it up specifically the buttons and contacts and wanted to try putting some graphite on but the very small bottle of it I bought many years back was never returned by a neighbour and I couldn't ask for it back but walking to the shop the other day I saw a broken pencil on the grass verge, with no one around at all I decided to partly recycle its use to coat the remote buttons pad and then in to one of the tool boxes to supplement one of the ones that keep breaking in use.

i did the "Audi Throttle response" coding via VCDS, many many years ago - it made a slight improvement. last year i got an EVC Throttle Controller - olly molly was that a huge difference and improvement!! compliments the Stage 1 ECU and TCU tunes very nicely. many have tried it and love it too. i would highly recommend it.

Delta P. VAG standard TPMS uses derived pressure from the ABS sensors and not actual pressure.

The new intake manifold was the issue... The flaps would start moving but not the sensore until after half way...so would get a small voltage out and ecu would think the flaps are at 50%

That's the way it works, whether you like it or not. I'm happy with the way it works. Doesn't mean you're driving in eco mode, as you'll realise the moment you press the accelerator.

After 18 months of driving and about 7,000 miles I got a low pressure warning (car was 6 months old with 40 miles on it when I bought it). When I checked, all of the tyres were at 2.0 bar and the fuel filler cap suggested 2.5 bar. 2.5 bar seemed high, but I have no idea what the pressures were when I bought the car, and therefore what pressure drop is required to trigger the low pressure warning. I topped the tyres up and will now see how long it takes before I get the next low pressure warning.

Rear brakes on 3mm and front in 4mm; discs with enough wear so took the opportunity to look at brakes. Was set on EBC Turbo grooved and Redstuff until I read through some stuff on here so Mtec Drilled/Grooved and ATE Ceramic pads on order. Mtec have a deal on at the mo so worked out well cost wise.

I've never heard of anyone being done for having their tyres lower than spec but not obviously low. I mean, it looks like the car was supplied to me with the pressures set to 33 PSI. And 39 seems very high.

Apologies for delay in replying - long story The issue turned out to be as Rum4mo suggested - a wire had broken in the loom contained in the concertinaed rubber sleeve between the hatch and the cars main body. I ended up splicing in a new short piece of wire using a soldering iron and heat shrink. Worryingly most of the other 7 or 8 wires showed significant cracking to the wires plastic insulation sleeves so tried to add protection to them with heat shrink. Clearly the quality of wiring used is not up to the

That sort of works, but only if you've got say the radio on the screen when you switch off the ignition and lock the doors. When you switch the ignition back on again, then OK the radio comes back on and not the "Data Protection" message. But I don't often have the radio on in my Fabia, and prefer just the clock and date display. As soon as you turn the radio off, then back comes the "Data Protection" message. I've now got used to tapping the "OK" on the message as soon as it appears and it doesn't really bother me now - along with all the other buttons I press to cancel things like "stop/start" and "lane assist". The later invented by some nerd !!

Lovely looker and the beading is looking great too. Def get a pedal box. I'm sure they're all much of a muchness but I have Racechip XLR and its great - plug it in, download the iphone app and can control everything from there. I did have it on Sport+ but eventually put it on Race+ (most sensitive of all) and that's perfect for me.

Just wanted to update here, bought two of these https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08L555ZNH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and managed to change myself as a complete noob, and they have worked for 2 years now

I bought at 71 plate PHEV in February. The dealer told me that all software was up to date, but I had some infotainment issues and found I was on old software. I insisted that they update to version 1941 which they did while I waited. No problems now. Most mileage is local on electric with longer journeys on hybrid. If you get one insist that the infotainment software is at 1941 or later before delivery.

Col, 8 years is nothing, and we bought a 'new' 7 year old one earlier in the year. My other half insisted on another and I know why. If you are 77, your Yeti will run happily until 2037 (20 years old, parts supply will be fine) and you will be 77+13=90 in 2037. Just keep the anti-rust going for you and the car 😀

Dent removed! Jason from Autodentz was really friendly and professional, he made it clear that its hard to remove the dent completely without taking out crash structures in the door which is significant work. The only ever so slightly noticeable bit is the factory crease is a little less pronounced in one area but its a huge improvement. Before After

Hi, welcome. Any dash warnings, messages, symbols (amber/red-triangle-of-doom), proper gearstick location for starting, pressing the brake hard enough. There are so many possible reasons for this, gearlever switchy-thingy, immobiliser, connector wires, computers, brakes - if the car isn't telling you anything then you'll need an appropriate level VW scan tool with fully up to date program on it for your model and year of car. The battery has to be very, very low usually not to start the engine, before this often you get all sorts or unexpected issues and warnings sometimes for a good while too if you ignore them before the engine struggles to start. If you can give more info please do, and let us know how you get on. Others may be along with other ideas.

There can be a dual relay arrangement in these units, which swap the polarity of the power to the motor, enabling up and down. This dual relay can have one contact burnt that means it can still go one way, but not the other. Relay will either be on a small circuit board within that assembly, or possibly remote, in another control unit.

For the mk3? I did a 2 stage polish I think, took a full day to do the whole car and then ceramic coat it. The reflections and gloss levels were amazing though. I think it could have done with the first stage using a heavier compound though to get the deeper marks out of the paint. Motec MCR2 Ultralights in a satin black

So this has been torturing me as usual. Running driving then wouldn't. VCDS said cam sensor no signal, so prayed it was just that. New one sourced, fitted easily. Cleared the code fine but still will not start. Pulled fuel lines, lift pump is priming, it is getting fuel to the hard lines to the engine. Rev counter is showing revs, cranking well. Belt seems fine no teeth missing etc etc. Only hope is injector loom. Pulled off the valve cover for a look and... It all looks very fresh. The parts car had 216k on it, I don't think this head has near that in it. Cam and all looks fresh, lifters etc look healthy. Very nice surprise to see. But doesn't solve my problem. Map sensor code still there but was there when it was running so not too worried about it, yet.

Final one on this in case anyone was following. I noticed "stepping" on the front tyres a month ago. Got the front wheels swapped left to right and got the tracking done. The sound has more or less gone away now.

The factory OE thermostat housing has gone through the following revisions: 06L121111H 06L121111J 06L121111K 06L121111L 06L121111M 06L121111P - CURRENT So i would hope it has been upgraded and repaired since then so it doesnt fail easily.... The coolant pump has gone through the following 06L121012A 06L121012H 06L121012K 06L121012L - CURRENT

Yesterday i finished fantastic 3615 km round trip across Sweden and Norway Thanks to the default speed limit 80 km/h, got numbers which i haven't ever seen before - top score on the display were 6.5 l/100km. Calculation for whole trip is 7.8 (36mpg) by filled 98/95 vs kms Keeping to the speed limit didn't save me from being stopped by an unmarked traffic police car, Škoda Superb wagon followed me about 15 kms - they didn't like the maneuver of overtaking a nearly stationary car as driving in the opposite direction Enyaq was still ~500 meters away, i overtook without using the accelerator pedal and returned to my line No fine just papers/trunk check and talking about driving safety (first hour in Norway) . . . . . .

got new perforated leather on steering wheel done by AutoMix.lv OEM had no wear sign after 14 months

added sound deadening

I have read this some other place the Iv skoda has no anchor places to fit a tow bar because of the positions of the battery pack.