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My mate's just sent me a photo of my motor with the subframe in front of it. I've got a knackered driveshaft, and a rotten wishbone (18 Scottish winters, mind) as well. Should be like a new car when it's home!

Finally got the areaview calibrated fully. Was a bit of a pain but managed to do it with the mats tight to the wheels, other than that it wouldnt pick up the front corners of the mat. Now its just a job of getting rid of the black box around the centre of the car screen. This can be done with modified datasets which I now have to hunt for!

2020 2.0 TDI 150 SE L First Edition. Finally took the decision to update my software from 1941 to 1985. Wasn't sure if my existing hardware would allow it, but it all went OK. Apart from a squeaky bum time as it took an age (5-6min) to finally update the CPU. I had the ignition on but engine off and also had the bonnet up. So an excuse to top up the Windscreen washer bottle. Despite it being a simple process, thanks to all for giving me the confidence to take this on and the steps required.

Purely for cost I would imagine one of these will make life much easier https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223490102530?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rEXkH2ETQbO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=G0CEmgoeS--&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Currently away for a decent amount of suspension-related work I've been neglecting to do since buying the car in 2021... whoops. That includes shock absorbers, the 'console' bushes that the wishbones sit in, a droplink, the dog bone mount, and another set of Bohemia 15" alloys like my old ones were. It's got a chance of going in a straight line now. Will need tracked upon its return, and fresh rubber on all four corners. Thinking about going for something decent like Goodyears, but trying to get somewhere local that will fit them without them being more than £90 a corner is proving difficult. Currently it's sitting on two ditch magnet specials, a Nexen snow tyre from the prehistoric era, and a cracked Bridgestone. Tidy! Beyond that, I've got some <Orange Man> 'concepts of a plan' </Orange Man> with a view to increasing nighttime visibility, and I've bought another set of Team Heko wind deflectors as I miss my old ones. Beyond that, the plan is to get the front wing painted so it doesn't look like an incompetent fool (me) had a shot with some rattle cans during a force something gale. Anyway, I'll report back in a few days... or months.

Finally managed to get the areaview calibrated! Now to just find the correct dataset to remove the black box from around the car. Sadly I can only find Tiguan and Passat datasets. Would help if someone had a VIN of a superb with factory fitted areaview.

Old school Vs New School thinking 😂

Pre facelift have only rear cameras as an option post facelift has rear camera or areaview as an option. the cameras are in the rear usual place, under both wing mirrors and in the front grill. officially for the front it’s meant to be in the trim covering the radar but to fit this id have to replace the front end with the FL superb headlights, bumper, grill, radar and didn’t want to. so made my own OEM look bracket and fitted it that way instead. This thread has a lot more detail for you:

Also missing the big recharging station at Salmons leap i think it is called in South Devon which has a couple of very long bays for EVs that are towing or just very long. For people coming down to Cornwall or South Devon.

Upgrading software of the infotainment unit is unlikely to help. Others have fixed this by replacing the SOS module or upgrading the SOS module firmware. Your dealer will have had plenty of experience fixing this fault......

It is illegal to fit LED bulbs in reflector headlights. It is also illegal to fit plasma discharge units in reflector headlights.

Everyone is making this overly complicated. In the 09 BCM module set up a new Leuchte pin to do what you require, then pin this out from the BCM to a relay to control the light bar. pdfcoffee.com_vw-mqb-golf-mk7-lighting-explanation-pdf-free.pdf

Within a certain range of sizes the performance isn't really about the dimensions, a smaller, narrower higher sidewalled tyre could be better performance it's all about the design, build, construction and compounds. Also different sizes will preform differently on different road conditions in different environments and conditions. Tyres like anything else on the car are full of compromises to meet the varying conditions they'll be subject to. You may not believe it but 7.5" rims and 225 wide tyres are already overwide for what is actually required, already firmly a fashion choice by VW - but as always each to their own, good luck.

Had a Kia Sportage before this - no idea what the issue was but when crawling it would kangaroo; like a random application of fuel and clutch. Also being a dry-clutch system you were advised not to crawl in traffic. Trust me, this DSG is like heaven comparatively! Anyway, look at TVS DSG remap. Meant to be pretty much the best of the best DSG remapping with lots of features. As said on the remap thread, the TVS DSG remap for me would have doubled the cost for me on top of the Racingline ECU flash so I didn't go for it but I would have in a heartbeat if the money issue would have been the case.

I watched that and Harry Stated that when towing he was down to something like 1.2kwh when towing or around 100 miles range. That's a ridiculous drop in range from its 300-330 range. Yes I get ICE vehicles see increased consumption when towing but to the same extent?? Also problems with charging po9ints when towing were highlighted. Unlike a Petrol pump where you draw up alongside it (admittedly you may block a second pump for 5 minutes for so as you refuel) the majority of EV charging points appear to be set up for Nose/Tail in charging, his conclusion was that you pretty much need to decouple the trailer/caravan whatever in order to charge without being a knob (my word not his) and blocking everything off.

just to clarify, talking Columbus range here..... MIB2 (8" screen) will ONLY work with MIB2 units. MIB2.5 (9.2" screen) will ONLY work with MIB2.5 units. MIB2 units (Harman) can b converted to MIB2.5, so you can retrofit a 9.2" screen and/or Virtual Cluster. Once converted, the 8" screen will NOT work with the MIB2.5 unit. With Amundsen or Bolero range, i'm not sure of their inter-compatibilities.

Oh for the long ago days of my youth when a couple of Cibie’s could be bolted on and easily wired through a mechanical relay…….

There's no retrograde step available as far as I know due to software security policies. Once you go forward you can't go backwards. I don't really understand what you mean when you say "wireless Android Auto keeps disconnecting from the car in the places it didn't before", are you getting what I experience with my car where I know my AA disconnects & reconnects at certain locations on the A29 in West Sussex if it's setup?

I do not think is dramatic, provided you have some experience with wiring. I fear more having to take apart panels, and dreadful clips that break, that kind of stuff ...

Trade rates are great. Used to get parts at near cost when I worked at a skoda dealer. Still get trade rates at motor factors at least. PSB is solid. I had them on the sdi and monte. Come to think of it the Rebuilt sdi subframe did basically no miles, and I swapped it out for a MK2 style now so that was a bit of a waste.

@Ooopnorth have you tried Autoglym wheel protector spray polish? I started using it on my previous car and carried on with the Karoq. It makes it very easy to rinse off road dirt etc. Usually do an autumn and spring application. Probably the other car polish makers have similar products.

Would you call USB 2 high speed these days? Would you call 7 kW fast charging? Unfortunately names become non-descriptive as tech moves on. Giving a moving number names are destined to fail. Just call it what it is, 50 kW DC is perfect I think, keep it simple. Then as we move beyond 150 kW voltage will come into play as charging capability depend on vehicle. So something like 400v 500a might be better. For example 350 kW Ionity are limited to just over 400 amps, so 400v Tesla max out at 180 kW on it. Whilst Korean cars can do over 280 kW on 800v chargers but max out below 200 kW on Tesla 400v 250kW capable Superchargers. Speaking of which, Tesla have just announced V4 cabinets which will 800v charging at speed of 500 kW. So those 800v cars can benefit at locations they are installed. 250 kW for 400v cars. Updated design also focused on faster & cheaper deployment, hopefully we'll see more of them everywhere.

I think we need to stop calling 50 kw Rapid. Now I am not snobby about this as for 3 years just had the Zoe which maxed out at 46 kws but with a Scenic that can do 135 kws, and that is not regarded as very rapid, I think we should call rapid 100 kws at least. Ultra rapid is also a bit of a misnomer. 1000 kws or so would be ultra rapid for a car. It will be a standard to electric 45T, 32T trucks etc for what is required.

Have you tried going back to the dealer to query it? You've paid for a software update which has not fixed the issue. If you don't get any joy maybe speak to another dealer, or send the Skoda Executive Office an e-mail? Appreciate it's more hassle for you - but this is a well known issue, that was resolved for most people quite a while ago.

The likes of this one works if you are lucky as far as not full.

This is on PlugShare map with "pull-through" and 50+ kW filter applied: It is missing South Mimms, so there's more out there. Of course, it's not dense enough and there are areas of countryside that is a complete desert (Wales).

He was towing a Lotus Elan Sprint which weighs in at 680kg , basically nothing which is nice if you live in Norway or near South Mimms ;o)

Yes I get a dash warning with the sensor unplugged, suggesting the sensor itself is to blame vs. other wiring faults. I cleaned the terminals too just "because" (although they don't show any signs of corrosion at all) and will wait until the level drops again to see if the sensor has magically come back to life. If not, then looks like a new expansion tank jobbie

Harry was towing a trailer with a car in it which is probably up to it's limit of 2,000kg maybe even over. He also went up and down a stretch of road and not on a sustained journey. A caravan usually is expected to be up to half the range.

FL models have another hardware and different screens. I doubt anyone here had already any experience with fixing them. So what I said above is applicable only to older models. Though I think 03.2024 is still pre-FL, hope someone could enlighten us on that.

Hard to say unless we know what units are you talking about. Infotainment unit itself cost 1500. For 5000 you could swap both infotainment and its screen (and even then it seems too pricey). However, the problem may lay somewhere else. As far as my experience was and many others were reporting here, new infotainment unit together with SW 1941 or above should have been fixed that already, so need further investigation what goes wrong with your car. I would consider trying another workshop before making decision to spend so much money.

What is it you are trying to achieve, is it that you, like many others, are only interested in the looks of the tyre and wheel to car cosmetics and not that bothered about practicalities of real world driving? If the website is correct it shows the 2017-22, 184ps, 2l, diesel on optional 19" (7.5Jx19 ET51) wheels with 225/35ZR19, 88Y tyres (to me 19" are a silly size and 225 and particularly 35% aspect ratio silly but it's not my car). Comparing those tyres against 245/35/R19 - Have you looked at, and/or asked, in Skoda Octavia and Skoda Mk III (2013 - 2020) forums for owners options and experiences, many owners look to reduce wheel size to get bigger sidewalls to the tyres, perhaps not as many VRS owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-škoda-octavia/

Yes - ours was the same when delivered in July - I narrowed it down by applying pressure to somewhere near the drivers side central vent - a wooden coffee stirring stick suitably inserted from below seemed to cure it.

Interesting. It hasn't rained much recently so that could be the lack of issue from mine (has been months). Although if the last post in that thread referred to a small hole then perhaps that can be looked for and saved. Looking at it logically (and in an effort to salvage the situation): Given it is temporary, it must be affected by the presence of water, rather than permanent damage caused by water. So solving any leaks with a bit of silicon sealant would in theory stop the issue. Otherwise if the LEDs are dead then there's no bringing them back to life. I may be oversimplifying it of course... Not sure what the warranty situation is on the cars - mine is 3.5 years old now so if its general warranty then I'm outta luck

Another new Osprey hub.

It's built into the expansion tank, so you just replace that if you have ruled out wiring faults. Do you get a warning if you run engine with it unplugged?

These three are the main ones to focus on. I think the one you have with an 86a terminal is probably the engine ECU relay from position 13, which has a diode between terminal 86 and the coil but not from 86a to coil, explaining your measurements. Fuel pump relay, which is the one that may not be OK, is in position 14. Fuel feed relay in position 10.1 is the one that provides a short run of the fuel pump when the driver's door is opened, after the car has been unopened for half an hour or more.

I found you could get calipers for not much more than the cost of a service kit, that saved the time and mess of a rebuild. Just a thought.

There was a 170 engined Superb on Ebay a few months back that had been a taxi all it's life that had 642k on it I think.

I’m leaning towards: put bio flush in and drive to work. use vcds to put car into bleed mode drain as per Audi video. fill as per Audi video. run the bleed through using vcds. does this seem logical? thanks

Absolutely normal but will be exacerbated by new unbedded in friction material.

Getting colder today........

We used New Bridgegate Tyres in Barnard Castle. https://www.newbridgegatetyres.co.uk/about-us I've been buying tyres there for many years after previously sourcing tyres from MyTyres. They seem reasonably competitive on tyre prices, fitting, etc. and while they are Hi-Q affiliated I've also on a couple of occasions found Asda Tyres can also be bought and fitted there too. However, this year Asda were only selling the older, discontinued, version: Pirelli Cinturato All Season Plus 225/50R18 PIRELLI CINTURATO A/S+ 99W XL at £159. What I appreciate about NBG tyres is that they are friendly, appear conscientious and they have never (as I've heard other retailers try on) tried to 'sell' other services they've 'noticed' we need, such as when my partner has visited on her own. They have an excellent reputation locally. They'll happily chalk up tyre positions to aid rotations, such as on the Subaru, and fit tyres in place accordingly. ALL SEASON

There are quite a few parameters required to be met for the automatic idle stop to activate, IIRC, something like 8 - typical things that will inhibit the function - - Low cabin temperature. - Low engine temperature. - AC demand setpoint not met. - Low battery voltage (or failing battery) - High electrical load. - Steering wheel movement.

Hi, got a replacement from haldex repairs, for about 350. I'm going to assume yours would be the gen 4 like mine, but you can double check on the site. The gen 4 is just plug in and good to go, assuming your connectors are ok. I had to replace one which I picked up from eBay for cheap.

There is no risk, fuses and batteries are meant to be replaced, you can even by aftermarket ones just at a gas station. They are accessible so you dont have tinker with any other parts of the car. They even give you a fuse remover tool in the engine compartment fusebox... BTW removing the fuse didn't work for me, but just disconnecting the battery and then some minutes later reconnecting did work.

If you’re in eco and using acc it won’t go into coasting, something to bear in mind

So thought i would give an update. Just broke 1000KM (yes at the moment dont drive alot but will do trip to Germany and Holland over Xmass so will be longer drives) Overall i love the car and it features. However whenever i start the car the first thing i do is turn off lane-assist, speed limit warnings, drowsiness warning and one more (the top 4 in the list) which i cant remember the name of right now. These drive me crazy when i leave them on since yes i do speed and the lane assist is just way to intrusive. Probably will turn them all of with VCDS once the data plan and warranty ends. This is not Skoda specific but EU regulations of people who i think never drive a car themselves. The blind spot detection also shows way to long. I am used to pass and then pull back in. Think right, drive right (in Europe). They always start the blink when they are still on and i pull back in. Yesterday for 1 minute i thought i had the dreadful all warnings. It started with front sensor not available and then continued with warnings for all systems that dont work. Was about 5 in a row. But then it cleared within the minute and didnt occur again. However i know this will happen alot once winter hits and the car is covered in snow and ice. Was the same in my Mk3 and it is something that just happens with the winter in Finland So as mentioned overall love it and it is the tiny details that make it perfect. Like the seats sliding back a little when you open the door to make it easier and sliding back when you start. There are loads more of those little things. Also the engine is incredible. When the foot goes to the floor it goes and goes and goes. Cant wait for the autobahn. I have a lotus elise as my summer car but for speed in a straight line the elise doesnt come close (it will destroy the skoda in the corners). Fuel consumption is 10.8 per 100 at the moment but that is down to me and wanting to have fun and I dont really care about fuel efficiency A bit worried about the xmass trip we start on the 18th of December since it will be about 5000K so keeping my eye on the software thread and see if it gets released before i leave so i can get the dealer to update it.

So we are all due an update I believe, So first of all ive been flat out with my new job to the point ive hardly had any time to do any car work! But ill update the small amount that has been done! Calibrate areaview - this still is yet to be done, got to find time on a sunday before it gets dark to find an empty well lit car park to get this sorted hopefully! Check the coolant leak repair - So, since the coolant pipe clips have been replaced with the constant tension type, opposed to the single ear type, i have done around 500 miles without a coolant top up! This is now called a success! I mentioned an alarm fault before replacing the battery - since replacing the battery the alarm is yet to go off, so thats a very good sign! Ambient lighting fault - Earlier I complained of an ambient light fault, this is still yet to be investigated although there are no visible symptoms. So basically, we are all on track, but I will have to scan for fault codes next weekend to see if the alarm or ambient light faults have returned! Fingers crossed no. Next up, we finally got round to fitting the canton grills in the front doors, So I first took a cut out of the fabric from the old doors and laid it on top of the sportline doorcards. This was then all marked out with a marker pen. After this we drilled out the holes, these were all odd sizes, from 6mm up to 11mm. Then the centre hole was cut out, this was done by drilling lots of 1mm holes and then using a blade to join them all together. The fabric then overhung the holes a fair bit, so the solution to this was to heat up a step drill bit till it was red hot, put it in some grips and poke it into each hole to slightly melt the fabric and allow it to retract from the hole. Next the grill itself was fitted, and as much as I wanted the backside to look pretty and as OE as possible, it was near impossible to apply pressure to the grill, keep it aligned, keep it pressed in, and keep it face down for the glue to flow into the holes, so the glue spreading on the back was my lowest concern. The 2 part epoxy was allowed to dry for 48 hours to be sure it wouldnt crack or come loose. The speaker itself was then refitted - 3V0035411E (its the same as the speaker in the centre of the dashboard) A tip to note, ETKA shows the required screws for this as N10549603 which are 4mm wide, 16mm long with a Torx 20 head. This is close, but not close enough! The actual screws are 4mm wide, 8mm long with a Torx 20 head and couldnt find a part number for these so ended up buying some from my local hardware shop. So speakers, grill and doorcard refitted, now the final product:

It gets worse! I took the plunge and bought a new washer bottle. Took the wheel off and removed enough of the wheel arch liner to give me access to remove the bottle. What a sod to remove!! Just 3 nuts but one was virtually impossible to see let alone unscrew. But with patience and extensions to my socket I managed it. The bottle separated from the funnel and came out. Trying to get the funnel out from the top was testing my patience but out it came. Fitting the new bottle went quite well (with blue tac on the nut that was difficult to see). Trying to get the new funnel in via the top was difficult. I used very hot water to make it more malleable. I also took off the square thing (power output?) attached to the headlight to give me more room. Eventually got it in and attached to the bottle. Before refitting the liner I checked the bottle. Filled it up and guess what? IT STILL LEAKED! Closer examination revealed that the leak was from the washer pump and not the bl**dy bottle. I dashed out and bought a new pump. It took just under 2 minutes to fit and the leak was gone. So I didn't need a new bottle after all. Grrrr. Wheel arch liner and wheel back on and all is well. BTW, is it me or is the 19" wheel somewhat heavy?? It is a sod to lift up and line up to secure it. My tip to assist that is to lower the jack to make it not too far to lift and to remove the plastic centre thing from the wheel and lift the wheel onto the hub.