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Sorry about the late response. The issue was indeed the right cv joint as @Warrior193 rightly pointed out. It's fixed now and running great. Had it fixed for free as it had a 6 month warranty for second hand purchase, otherwise it would have cost close to 1k euros. Thanks for all the help

I've own(ed) 2 Octavias, a 1.4 litre Mk3 wagon and Mk4 RS wagon. The first one was no trouble until I had it serviced by the local Skoda dealer. Talk about useless.Developed a miss which had several (supposed)disgnosises.Needs new software,has a broken spark plug,needs a new throttle pedal and best of all it needs a new clutch (for a miss!) Went to several specialists. Much money was spent and eventually a new engine was fitted by a Sydney dealer.Thank god Skoda paid for most of it. Talking to several mechanics the most likely cause was a spark plug was over torqued at service and debris fell into the bore. Don't know exactly and can't prove it anyway. 2nd one has been great. Couple of glitches with software but nothing like I read about cars in Europe and the UK. Our cars In Australia don't have internet connectivity or the SOS system. Probably lucky.

Thought I'd start a project thread to chart what I do to it. 2021 280 L&K DNFE engine - i.e. EA888Gen4; something I paid little attention to initially to my cost. Bought from Carr's Exeter; it was the GM's company car so had done 4,900 miles. Drove down the old car to Part-ex and brought back the Superb. Immediately had the emergency button switch off nearing home which was the first of a few problems with MIB3 software. Eventually got it upgraded which sorted out a myriad of sporadic issues. Given a bit of a clean and some paint protection - Infinity Wax Citrus Prewash, Carpro Lift, Reset, IronX, TarX, HydrO2 (easy mist on, jetwash off ceramic-based protection). The classic Engine Cover recall at this stage so engine looked a bit unfinished but cleaned with Koch-Chemie Greenstar - my go-to APC which also doubles as my main wheel cleaner too (start with an alkali degreaser, move to an acid for the stubborn caked-on stuff).

Level sensor?

so... apparently Thrifty/Hertz Tenerife's idea of a Hyundai Tuscon is ..... A VW T-Cross. its an autobix petrol, and grand to drive of course it is. but... tha k the lord god almighty we only brought 3 of our allowed 4 10kg bags +our 1 20kg, because if we had brought them all.... i wouldve been going back to the left luggage office at the airport on Monday morning to collect it..had carry bags in the back seats wut the boys and the push chair. and the parcel shelf in beside spud jrs door..possibly the best/worst game of bag tetris ive had to play in a very very long time!!!

link to Škoda's P129 ECE 2024.06 has been add to head post

About this time a year ago, the touchscreen failed on my fitted 2017 Yeti Amundsen Mib2 radio satnav unit. I got great advice from a number of members, and eventually my wife and I decided to replace it with a non touchscreen Kenwood DPX 7300 Dab unit. What a NAIL of a unit! Well, what a mistake THAT was... The manual might as well have been written in Swahili, the customer service was a shambles, none of the steering wheel controls worked, and operating the unit was a nightmare. It was a SHAMBLES! Complete waste of money.. So the other week, I fished our Amundsen Unit out of the cupboard and decided that I would get hold of a Digitiser screen and attempt to fit it. I had always been very hesitant about this. I am no techie on audio equipment. So I bought one from Jonathan at Siansmobiles on Ebay, and set to work. Two hours later, and I had a fully working radio satnav unit back in the car. Success. So really, this is just a heads up.... If YOU have suffered the dreaded non working touch screen issue, don't give up..... do as I did above. With reasonable care, some spare time, and a few small tools You CAN do this yourself and avoid the absolutely ridiculous prices quoted by main stealers. Make sure you order the right Digitiser screen and it really isn't difficult. I'm just turned 78...I did it! 😂 I don't know why I was frightened of doing it to be honest.

Not switches - motor flaps - part of the heater matrix box. I think there are two flaps - one in the fresh air intake and one that redirects airflow around the car. One of those has probably gone open-circuit and has ceased (although it should show up a code).

You are all good. The gearbox is intellegent to know that if you are on the brake - in D - it disengages the clutch enough not to drive forward. Modern DSG / auto-gearboxes are fine like that. If it makes you feel any better, try putting the car in neutral when you have your foot on the brake.

Thank you very much, I will get it tattooed on the inside of my bottom lip!

I believe that you will find that the parameters governing operation of automatic idle stop (stop start) have not significantly changed since it was first introduced.

I have this issue. It's going to be another 4 to 6 weeks before the software is released. Apparently it failed testing for the superb so only the Kodiaq one is being released this week.

That is true but even when I had air in ABS Unit this still occurs. The difference is with air in the ABS, when keeping this firm high up pedal pressure then start the engine and the pedal drops a lot. A little drop on engine start is normal, maybe an inch or so, I'm talking about a big drop on engine start. I did an ABS bleed and that big drop disappeared and the brakes immediately felt firmer while driving.

Five of the seven cars to make it to the European car of the year are pure EV or have an EV version (C3)..... Even the beautiful CUPRA, as well as the Duster, are available as Hybrids though I would have rather see the Duster with the 1.2 turbo than the 1.6 NA engine, this setup works well in the Clio but Duster should have a turbo I reckon. Putting Alpine A290 with the Renault 5 is odd to me as the A290 share much with last years COTY winner ie the Scenic, and the Megane on underpinnings but shape and battery pack size with the R5. European COTY Winner annouced at Brussel motor show in January after more testing etc. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- https://www.caroftheyear.org/ The list of the seven finalists for the 2025 edition has just been published, and the 60 jurors from 23 European countries have had to choose from among 42 models those they consider most likely to win the continental award. The winner of The Car Of The Year award will be announced on January 10, during the Brussels International Motor Show. In September, the first big test of the candidates took place at the Tannistest in Denmark, and now, after the first vote was closed, the seven chosen were (in alphabetical order) Alfa Romeo Junior, Citroën C3, Cupra Terramar, Dacia Duster, Hyundai Inster, Kia EV3 and Renault 5 / Alpine A290 (considered as the same model). From now on, the jurors will have 8 weeks to thoroughly test the candidates and forge a vote that will allow them to choose the best in Europe. Finally, all seven car models will be brought together for a joint test at the Mettet Test facility in Belgium right up to the final vote for the title The Car of the Year 2025. For the final choice, each jury can distribute 25 points, offering a maximum of 10 points to a car, and being obliged to vote at least five vehicles of the seven finalists with a winning model. Last year's continental crown went to the Renault Scenic, which won the final vote over six other contenders - BMW 5 Series, BYD Seal, Kia EV9, Peugeot 3008, Toyota C-HR and Volvo EX30. The Renault was the most voted with 329 points, beating the BMW 5 Series that got 308 points, followed by the Peugeot 3008 with 197 points. Fourth place went to the Kia EV9 (190 points), fifth to the Volvo EX30 (168 points), sixth to the BYD Seal (131 points) and seventh to the Toyota C-HR with 127 points. The seven finalists for the Car of the Year 2025: Alfa Romeo Junior Citroën C3/ë-C3 Cupra Terramar Dacia Duster Hyundai Inster Kia EV3 Renault 5 /Alpine A290

+++ 2025.06.02 +++ -> next 2025.02 # ECE 2024.06 28 Gb version:{"major":1167777,"minor":24032,"build":0} version:{"major":1167777,"minor":24032,"build":0} VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/EUR_13PR129_FCT3WS-241E0_Offline_Update.tar Files inside: 2024.05.24 Downloadable: 2024.06.14 Published: 202-.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_EU_202448_Offline_Update.zip Files inside: 2024.05.24 Downloadable: 2024.11.18 Published: 2024.12.0? Seat portal: https://navigationmaps.seat.com/MIB3/CW48-2024/EUR_13PR129_FCT3WS-241E0_Offline_Update.tar Files inside: 2024.05.24 Downloadable: 2025.01.02 Published: 202-.--.-- # Asia 4.1 Gb VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/ASIA_13PR129_CT3W-241E1_Offline_Update.tar Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_ASIA_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Australia 1.8 Gb VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/AUS_13PR129_CT3WS-241E1_Offline_Update.tar Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_AUS_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Chile 496 Mb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_CHILE_202448_Offline_Update.zip # India 7.6 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_INDIA_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Israel 244 Mb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_ISR_202448_Offline_Update.zip # North Africa 1.5 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_NA_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Turkey 20.2 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_TUR_202448_Offline_Update.zip # Gulf Region 2.8 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_AGCC2_202448_Offline_Update.zip # South Africa 1.5 Gb VW portal: - - Škoda portal: - - # South America 8.2 Gb VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/MRM1_SAM_13PR129_CT3WS-241E1_Offline_Update.tar Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/OI_P129_MRM_SAM_202448_Offline_Update.zip ======= coverage ======= # Gulf Region Bahrain, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Russia, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates # South Africa Botswana, Lesotho, Mozambique, Namibia, Reunion, South Africa, Swaziland, Zimbabwe # South America Argentina, Bahamas, Brazil, Colombia, Costa Rica, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Mexico, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Uruguay, Venezuela

Why are there 3 identical lower front wishbone arms but made of 3 different materials for all PQ35 cars ( eg Skoda Octavia-II ) ? 🤔 ( Of course they have different VW/Skoda part # ) There must be some underlying thought/reason here !?!? 🤔 * Pressed sheet metal. * Cast steel. * Cast aluminium.

This still works, been over a year of ownership now. Lapped up the miles in true 'repmobile' style. Now sporting original velour mats, a genuine Vauxhall first aid kit in the boot, SRi/GSi/Supertouring taillights, Opel brand wind deflectors on the front, and unfortunately not attached at the moment, but it has a set of genuine Vauxhall headlamp protectors. That'll do.

Hi - Just wrote of my Honda HRV and bought as a replacement a 6 year old Superb L&K Auto 148bhp Diesel Estate - 51,00 miles. Very impressed so far with ride, handling, build quality, performance and absence of thirst. So fingers crossed. 😎

I didn't look that closely at the parts diagram, which doesn't even show the flaps, but I think there's only one motor up there, yes.

No it was not charged and was not preconditioned this morning. Just been out at minus 3*oC but it was showing 100% power available. First reduction is -5 i think. Which makes no difference really to just driving and accelerating in speed limits.

I agree, but mine errors with Auto Hold and Hill Start Assist were finally fixed now, with some software updates from factory and battery change.. now it is one week from last service visit and errors are not showing up..

More exciting stuff here... https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/innovation-and-technology/tips-tricks-windscreen-wipers-and-sprays-deserve-care-and-attention/

I have the same problem with my superb. It is booked into the dealers so they can have look at it. This morning I disconnected the + terminal on the battery for 30 mins, then reconnected the terminal this has cleared all the errors and faults, I know they will probably cone back again but nice to drive it as it was again

@Stewart7 Is your DSG going into Coasting then when in ECO Mode. Instead of D7 or D6 the indicator just shows D. Which is fine. No load on engine no need to be engaged in Drive, touch brake or accelerator and back into D7 or D6. There are various things that can go wrong / play up with a DQ200 DSG, but best just use it, not abuse it and they are pretty well OK. There was a Service Campaign called in 2017 on some from 2013-2015, a software update. '34H5', maybe check if that was needed or carried out. (That was a preventative measure because of pressure / heat issues.)

@MHUnderwood shows a UK location, and this is a Global website. The question with more info might be best in the Kodiaq or Kodiaq Mk2 section. There are Kodiaq Mk2,s off the road now because of Software Issues and members talking on rejecting those, and Superbs because of not fit for purpose software. Some of the issues they say make the vehicle unsafe to use.

As often as you can post screen grabs without associated links to the original articles 😛 But the Government wants us to all have EVs regardless of their pitfalls ;o)

Do you mean leaving the wiper blades in the service position - I.e. with the blades vertical on the screen? - turn off ignition then flick wiper lever down within a few seconds, lock car.

One way to test the wiring from fuel pump relay to fuel pump, is to link the two bigger connections (30 to 87) of position 14 in the relay holder, with relay not fitted. That should make the fuel pump run for as long as the link is there. But running it for 1 second will prove wiring OK.

I love pylons. I think the French do them better. Prettier. Uk government just approved £2.5B interconnector from Scotland to England going under the sea, que Little Mermaid song. Lines can be buried underground. This is done from Minor Dinorwig, through Snowdonia national parks until it joins the National Grid near the coast. As a bonus you get several sheppards hut with free heating where the cable cooling is done every kilometer or so. Probably only kicks in a breakfast and tea when Dinorwig goes from tickover to about 2 GWs.

Try another fuel pump relay if the wire paths seem OK. Just because a relay clicks, doesn't mean it definitely works. The contacts can be badly burnt so that it doesn't carry enough current. Judging by one of your photos above, it's the one with 53 written on the top of it. The lack of fuel pump action when opening door may be an unrelated wiring fault, meaning that the vehicle voltage control unit (which senses door opening and triggers the fuel feed relay) may not be sensing that the door has been opened.

Yeah mine does that if you interrupt the regen. It isn't that it comes on when the engine stops, but it was already on but couldn't be heard over the engine. Once the car is stopped the fan winds down.

@kindalen 1. add extra 5 mm in heigh by change tire size to 225/55r17 2. as quiet i can recommend Michelin's 3. as noisy i would avoid Pirelli's P7 4. find some model with acoustic foam inside tire, mission impossible in last years

@Winston_Woof How often can you go on about the obvious fantastic distances ICE vehicles can on on a tank of fuel. Yes 140 miles with a smaller battery and still a big car. But the point is that if that does not suit someone that needs to tow then just do not get an EV. 3 hours with the caravan or whatever behind is going to be more than enough for many that do caravan or tow. My issue with him and the likes of him were them Charging when at destinations to then run the caravan off the Free Chargers at the time in Scotland, Then the next day leaving the car charging on 7, 11 or 50 kW chargers again and bogging off walking cycling etc with the charger locked in. Greedy ignorant barstewards around, just like ones off golfing etc with their car charging free rather than at home... Even now with tariffs some are at it were there is no penalty / max charging time. They set their charge time but the car sits for hours, daytime or night plugged in hogging the charger / bay. What a total palaver and carry on. Just like the EV Campers and the limited range between charges. But then i Drive a Mini Electric and know all about needing to charge every 2 hours or sooner. Just not the hassle of hitching and un-hitching and hitching. But for some it is their way of having fun... **2024 sort of costs. These free charging days are long gone.** 2 miles a kWh & 75 pence a kWh is 100 miles costing £37.50. Crazy. 55 pence a kWh £27.50 79 pence a kWh is £39.50 for only 100 miles travel. You do need to have money to burn... Getting 200 miles with optimum efficiency makes a very big difference, well enough to be not so extortionate to tow with an EV. Tesla Super Charger to Supercharger can bring the cost down to that 60 pence a kWh or less.

potentially, especially something like an auxiliary lighting system, hence i why i initially said "no guarantee". when i added the DRL light bar on my Superb, i did the test with a wiring harness to tap into the DRL signal, and low beam signal, and was able to do it successfully without any errors thrown. most likely because the DRL light bar consumed very little power. however, because i wanted my DRL light bar to act (dim and brighten) like factory DRLs, i did the complicated BCM method. u can read about it here. in theory, u could use Pin 11 from the headlight connector to trigger a relay, which will turn on an auxiliary light that is powered separately, and not through the same pin, thus not increasing the load.

My Octy mechanically has been spot on, it has done just under 10k miles now. The only thing that's let it down is the software/firmware.

You mention a particulate sensor so I assume you have a TDI; 24k miles doesn’t sound much in four years for a diesel. Have your previous ones been diesel or your usage changed? In contrast, my 4yo 1.5 TSI has given 51k miles of reliable motoring (other than early s/w issues).

amended brochure/pricelist dated 18.10.24 now online which is now almost accurate (I want to say down to me as I monitor these very closely and inform Skoda Customer Services when they are wrong - often one part of document contradicts another) - only obvious thing still wrong - which I advised them about - is that the tyre sizes for edition models are all incorrect - now just got to wait til Feb/March for my Sportline

While my škoda was in the service, they offered me a service exchange car, the new octavia, with a mileage of over a hundred kilometers. In terms of equipment, it wasn't very special, and it didn't provide the driving pleasure that mine does. It was equipped with a 1.5tsi 85kW engine and a 7-speed dsg. As far as I understand, it was a light hybrid, because there was a 48V battery under the right seat. Compared to my pre-facelift, this one seemed to be assembled worse, for example, the door rubbers were poorly installed in some places, and there were also problems with closing the doors, because the door lock stuck. I never closed the door the first time, always the second time I have to slam the door like an old car. The first impression when you get in, you feel at home, basically everything is the same as the pre-facelift Octavia. The difference is that the chrome parts here are matte and there is no more possibility of dazzling the sunbeams. Ambient light was missing at this trim level, although there was a color option in the multimedia settings. The Škoda logo on the steering wheel is also different, but a nice experience compared to mine, this one had a heated steering wheel, which I really appreciated. Next, the heated chairs in this one not only heat the back as it is in my pre-facelift, but also heat the bottom. The multimedia in this one was 10", visually the same big screen as mine pre-facelift, with the same thick black screen edges. Where the shortcut keys on the side have moved to the screen shortcuts. Yes, the multimedia seems faster and more responsive to touches. But the visualization is simple and it's not complicated. If you open Android auto, then the shortcut bar reduces the area on which android auto is displayed, but everything is really simple and understandable, I can quickly adjust everything to my own. Virtual panel copkit, yes it displays to some extent more information, but also there is an iron choice of what and how to display it. To be honest, I prefer to manually configure something. This particular car was equipped with road sign recognition, to be honest I couldn't drive normally at first because it kept affecting the adaptive cruise. Later I found the setting and disabled it. But even when driving outside populated areas, the virtual panel reported the approaching sharp turn or sharp bend and immediately intervened in the cruise control, reducing the speed, the old Octavia is not so smart. What else? I liked the setting, where you can configure the comfort light, when you approach the car, without touching the key or door handles, it turns on the comfort lights. This thing is missing in my old Octavia. Can one be programmed? Also, the new one knows how to lock the car when you move away from the car, the old one only knows how to unlock it when you approach it. The image quality for the rearview camera is better than the old one, does anyone know if it is possible to replace the camera and improve the image quality for the old one? Is it because of the software? It's much better in the dark. What else is left in my memory and missing in my Škoda, probably nothing more. oh yeah, forgot about the lights. So mine is equipped with normal LED lights and + pre-fog LED lights, this one was also without matrixLED and as we already know, there are no more fog lights in facelift models. It seemed to me that the new regular LED dipped beam lights illuminate better than the old Octavia's lights. I often additionally use the fog lights on mine in the dark. Also, the automatic high beam assistant seems to have worked better in the new one, it switched more promptly and does not dazzle others. I'm sorry, I must have thought for a long time, but there are things that I liked, but things like this made me wonder if my next car will be a Škoda. .

Thanks will look into it ... 😉 And I am sure there is worse, I had a neighbour with an MMT-equipped Yaris which behaved pretty much as you well described, kangaroo-jerking box... still, I wish it was smoother, but I will go first into checking its condition. Other mate my mate took me around in his very mint P38RR, with its outdated and archaic 4-spd ZF slush box, but there is nothing, nothing disrupting in the ride, the gears change effortlessly and without any bumps or jerks. What a pleasure ...

That is not how you clean a GPF. But the Light does not have to be on for them to be running at a higher idle speed.

There is also this thread about replacing this siren in the Octavia section: Does have quite a few posts, but also no references to working, cheaper alternatives.😒

Garages used to do welding but these days its a quick spot on an exhaust or a small patch to get it through an MOT and thats about it. Have a friend who had a garage and he said the prep work etc plus welding costs so much in labour it wasn't worth it. Plus he always said that unless it was stripped right back and all the rusty metal cut out and done properly( which would in my cases cost more than the cars were worth) it would probably need rewelding again for the next MOT. Might be worth a quick check to see if anyone local does car restoration or if theres an old style garage near you. Body shops cost a fortune probably due to most repairs are being paid for by insurance. Alasdair

My Karoq came with the Space saver spare, it included jack, jack handle, wheel brace, plastic tweezers for wheel bolt caps, circular ring that had a leg with hook end. Don’t know what the last thing does - my previous VW had the same tool which removed the bolt covers. I don’t recall seeing a towing eye will have to check. I would recommend getting a wheel mounting rod off ebay. It’s a 6 inch long rod which screws into a bolt hole. Makes removing and fitting wheels much easier. Screw it into a bolt hole at the top and the wheel can simply be slid on and off. It takes the weight if the wheel when refitting leaving both hands free.

Beat it to death with a sledgehammer 🤬 Chop it up with an axe, shred the remaining plastic into bits, melt it and then pour the molten plastic into the Skoda CEO's office door lock 👍

Collecting this at the weekend. 2021 Monte Carlo in Meteor Grey, fully loaded - microsuede / satin black upholstery & winter pack.

A-Pillar trim is a simple spring-clip affair, don't panic. Yank it at the top, two clips to release & the bottom bit just sits in a slot at the end of the dash

This is what my Skoda looks like now

Engine mounts?

just a update on this MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN THE CRAP OUT OF YOUR WINDSCREEN DRAIN CHANNELS IN THE TOP JUST BELOW THE LOWER EDGE OF THE WINDSCREEN - both sides i had the drain channels block up with dirt on a citgo again and water ran into the cabin, just something to be aware of on these

Had to register an account just to say amazing wireing job