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Nights are getting lighter 🚴👍

Ok I've done it. Every fault going on dash, but did as others have said left full lock, right full lock and aside from adaptive cruise everything cleared. Plugged OBD11 in found loads of faults so just cleared them and about go take it for a run. I assume these are fault logs due to reset having removed battery. One was steering angle sensor. Only lost trip mileage as far as I can see.

Spotted another two golden oldies.....

The pano roof is often vilified and can indeed be the source of problems, but I suspect that’s because people don’t maintain it. Check the roof works, and get it serviced by a specialist once you’ve got it - lubricated with the correct grease, and get them to check the drain holes and tubes for blockages.

Anyone else ordered the new Elroq? Ordered the edition 85 with Maxx pack in Moon White on 9th December. Lead time given as 17 weeks .Hoping no delays. Demo models should arrive February so dealers will be busy with test drives. Love the styling inside and out. Counting down the weeks.

That Corolla is a keeper!!! I bet that has given 41 years of 100% reliability. Do the new road tax rates hammer old school vehicles like that or is that a tax exempt historic? I love how much glass older vehicles had and how slender the door and screen pillars were, compare it to the cars in the background.

There are 5 Yeti 4x4 diesels listed in the whole of the UK on AutoTrader that have less than 100,000 miles for £6k and haven't been written off before. I'd have a look on there at the options and alternatives.

+1 even if compare to Mk4 Octavia

I swapped from a 2009 diesel 1.9 pd mk2 to a petrol mk3 2020 last August it is very much a nicer car and fuel economy is nearly as good as the diesel especially on a longer run. One difference I have noticed is the fuel tank is smaller than in the mk2 so it seems to need fuel more often but you are not putting as much in with each fill. Not had to spend any money on anything re parts in 6 months so can't help re prices.

Consider I already own a superb... Anyway, today I was able to test an arteon phev - same length of the superb but the charging door should be longer on the arteon. I plugged the cable and slightly closed the lid. It works..

Until about two years ago, VAG UK recommendation was 5 years or xx,000 miles, so a ten year old car could feasibly have had two cam belts. The new recommendation is 140,000 miles with no time limit.

Possibly - it can be a bit random. Heat and vibration changes things up... It's a common issue with the pd especially re advancing age/miles and a relatively cheap simple fix - worth doing anyway.

As it is difficult to check the mechanical pump and a risk to remove it I would clean and check the electric pump and try your idea of bypassing the mechanical pump. Clean the electric pump for fuel delivery and electric connection. If possible I would connect directly to the battery live and return for a good powerful electric connection if required you could install an inline on/off switch or fuel valve/tap (subject to fully testing the switch or fuel valve/tap is fully operational and reliable as you do not want to introduce more problems) then before connecting to the carb test the electric pump for correct flow and pressure rates as you want sufficient and possibly not too much to overcome the carb. Only after full testing of the pump connect it up to the carb and see if that makes any difference to your issue. Lobe operated pumps do need to be fitted in the correct position of lever arm to lobe to work properly. With the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s British engines that I was familiar with many owners that had the mechanical pumps fitted swapped to electric particularly because of starting issues, and especially if the car had been standing overnight or much longer. The older versions of the pump IIRC had a priming lever on them that would perhaps have overcome many of the issues. Once an engine or car is running you stand more chance of sorting things or getting to where you want to travel to but if the engine won't start or continue running it is a right PITA (hence also the need of a good battery in good state of charge and health). Even if an old engine runs badly the engine can at least still run and get you to where you want to go. This was part of the problems with many owners of old cars if they ran, even if not as well as they should or could, the owners would run them in that way, in ignorance or laziness. Personally though I do not often recommend stuff from Germany but I found the Hardi electric fuel pump to be fit and forget reliability (for decades from other users and 14 years with my car ownership) and its performance was good, as it should be it done the job well so was never noticed, fit 'n' forget. The pumps are basically body and head with selection of fittings to suit requirements so if your car is not listed by them look at the specifications and various heads and fittings available. Other makes of pumps are available those little square ones, the name of I forget now, Facet, can be noisy vibration things that need isolation mounts (basically the old rubber exhaust bobbins) so they can be used, the cube is smaller, perhaps neater but not my preference after having one fitted for a short time, it did not like idle kickover nor I from the noise it made. Of course your issue might not be anything to do with the pump but it would be good to know for sure it is not the fuel pump. Often it is the last thing you check that is the problem that is Sod's Law, if an issue(s) can be checked from the opposite ends of a route Sod's Law is you pick the wrong end to start at, but at least checking all other items means they are either checked or adjusted or attended to. Good luck.

I ordered an Elroq Maxx Edition in moon white like TAP in October. No build date from the retailer yet. I hope it comes before April 1st but given the 11 week lead time quoted by TAP, I guess this is looking unlikely.

Another update. I replaced the float, needle and pin that holds them and it didnt help. After a cold start the car ran for 2 minutes and then stalled. My next step is to try a cold start again, let it stall then open up the top of the carb and see if there is fuel in the carburetor's bowl, if not then I will try replacing the fuel pump, maybe its acting up when cold. if there is fuel in the bowl then god help me because I replaced everything (except the fuel pump). Hopefully I will update you guys soon.

Had a quick look on KYB catalogue but no heavy duty ones but Fabia came as a van and as an estate as well as a hatchback so the springs I assume would be heavier duty on the van and estate My folks had the estate and never had a problem with weight and they loaded it to the max. Are you sure the ones you got are for the estate and not the hatchback. Another point would be the rear shocks as well. Have had cars in the past that sat low due to failed shocks. KYB RH6085 - fabia mk1 hatch 1.9tdi KYB RH6402 - fabia mk1 estate 1.9tdi KYB RH6086 - fabia practic 1.9tdi KYB RH5537 - fabia practic heavy duty 1.6tdi Not sure if the above would be interchangeable but the heavy duty ones are thicker at 12mm instead of 10mm You would need to find the dimensions etc Alasdair

Just an update for anyone reading in future the OE number above is correct I could get an OE part but bought this which is fine "VIKA 11030058601 seal ring oil filter, OE 047103487" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276643500063 Thanks everyone for the help. It is strange that ebay and the dealers all have the wrong part No on their system. I have a similar problem getting a new fuel cap but will start a new thread.

Yes similar. Renaults regen does not bring car to stop ie not one pedal driving so it needs a dab. Marked difference in regen when battery cool, ie not much, to lots ie 30 kw plus when warm and battery SoC less than 90% ie room to put high levels back in. Other than that foot brake is just for emergency braking. Literally drive with the panels doing the regen as the brakes. Level 1 is freewheeling and then 2,3 and 4 is mild, mid and strong respectively. Looking at the energy stats the regen can add more than 10% to the range on non motorway journeys.

He got the 293 just plain wrong. I have heard 248 and 253 miles for 52 kwh. I think a lot of these journo wordsmith struggle to convert kilometers into miles. The conversion should 1.60934, some seem to use 1.6 and some seem to use 8 kilometers is 5 miles, maths not many of their strong point it seems.

Yes the steering wheel is slower to heat up. Have you twigged that it has 3 heat levels. Multiple presses lower the level.

Sliding sleeve sticking on the replacement water pump/

^^^ He reads out very different WLTP Figures than Rory Reid gave on the Autotrader video. He said 40 kWh battery 193. 52 kWh 293 miles. Then said 4.8 miles a kWh 'they say' which is 192 & 250 miles. 'In the damp, in the wet getting a bit of wheel spin, loving that'. B0llocks, All-Season tyres on and wheel spin yes, loving it??? OEM Tyres will be a ninsense.

I have a SE L Hatchback with the 2.0TSI 190 engine and DQ381 7 speed wet clutch DSG . The engine suits the car great with good power delivery and quiet. Only issue i find is if your mileage is mostly short town running you will be lucky to average much more than 32 mpg , however as @KeteCantek has said above on motorways and good dual carriageways you can see 45 mpg. Other than that the car has been trouble free Hope this helps you

If the car is unlocked before you open the engine bay & you disconnect the battery there should be no alarm.

I may be mis-remembering, but I think it depends whether it’s a facelift or not. Facelift already has LED DRLs I think? Mine is a pre-facelift, and I agree it looks much better now I’ve upgraded the DRLs to canbus-compatible LEDs. The xenon bulbs are D1S on pre-facelift and a doddle to change (accessed from the back of the headlight units), but they’re D3S on a facelift and I believe it’s a bumper-off job.

You might be surprised. Check out the high Mileage post. I'm at 294K km, so 183K miles Seems to be going strong

SE plus I think we’re well spec’d sounds like a good one. Keep those sunroof drain holes clear if it’s one that opens. Listen out for wheel bearings and check for broken suspension springs mot should spot this.

Hello everyone! A small update - I was unable to get to the VW specialist last week as owing to where it is, I'd have needed a lift home. I love walking and 10 miles or below I probably would just walk but this would have been three hours to get home. Anyway our friend couldn't do the lift last minute. So I took it to a terribly-well reviewed new local garage (66 reviews, all 5/5 on Google) and they found that beyond around 30mph, the ECU is sensing an issue and shutting down injector 1. This is when the shaking starts as it goes down to three cylinders. Restarting cures this. Either way though at all times it is slightly underpowered. HILARIOUSLY (this is how I choose to see it!) they didn't check the wiring loom as they thought the previous garage had. I said no they were going, they bought a new loom, and then just stopped. He couldn't believe that. So it could be... 1. Wiring loom (possibly damaged when the injector was replaced) 2. ECU/electrical/wiring fault elsewhere. 3. He did say three out of four glowplugs had fault codes. No problems starting, it is instant (no exaggeration) but can bad plugs cause issues even after starting? Anyway it is going to the VW specialist in a few days now finally. On 249,981 miles...I will make it!

im thinking about it

Can you describe in more detail the over temp situation. How quickly did the temp get up to red? And how quickly the coolant warning light went out after stopping? Was the engine still running when you stopped and was it running while you waited for it to cool down? It sounds a bit like an air lock in the system. Can you cycle the heater on and off a bit to get any air out of there. Maybe do this with the coolant tank lit open and engine running (not too hot obviously). That might get the air moving to the tank where it should be. Then recheck level when COLD.

If you are worried about dry clutch DSG on the 1.4/1.5, just avoid them. The 2.0tsi 190ps version would still give decent mpg, at least 45mpg on motorways. As reference, the 2.0tsi 4x4 will struggle to get above 45mpg. Older 2.0 220ps versions are not bad too. The difference in fuel economy for all of them are marginal unless you are doing moon mileages. In which case you should be getting a diesel or something else.

Eventually got this sorted - shame the dealer dismissed my concerns 2 years ago - new Online Services Controller was needed - apparently over £1k just for the part.

I'm just impressed that Chills was able to find and resurrect a 9 year old post!!

The clocks are not plug and play even if you had a set with the EXACT same number, they are coded to the ECU along with the transponder in the key so if you swap the clocks the immobiliser will stay on.

Ah yes, thought I'd seen it somewhere. Let me check PETKA to be sure. edit: indeed.. Nothing..

Suzuki Swace (aka Toyota Corolla Touring Sport) - last of a model as Suzuki are going SUV or electric only, so I bought for a huge discount. I test drove and wasn't expecting to like it to be honest - er whoops. I was amazed I fitted ok as I'm 6ft 4" tall, it's a low car but basically I was incredibly comfortable with seat on the lowest setting and my elbows were perfect re arm rests either side(I usually bash against the B pillar of most cars - hence my previous need of a Superb). However my favorite bit is the way the Toyota hybrid gubbins drives - it's not for everyone but it really suits my driving style. Eco mode keeps engine revs low (when it runs!) but pulls surprisingly well when you need it. Setting off or pulling out of corners on country lanes quite addictive as it really winds up with petrol and electric combined. Economy is stunning but both the Swace and Corolla have very pessimistic fuel gauges - Theoretically it has a 43l tank but I rarely get much more than 30l in when it's showing circa 30 miles to go. Not so much of a problem though as you get about 450 miles on that (less in winter, more in summer). Another Selling point for us was the 596l boot that's about the same length as the one we had in the Superb.

Skoda / VW videos in the past have shown all different colours going through the paint tunnels and changing the spray guns from car to car.

Seems a bit inconsistant if Tap ordered on 9th December and doesn't yet have a build date, whereas Keefey ordered at the end of December and he's been told his car is built and awaiting transport. I'm assuming they build the cars in batches of colour? If so I guess delivery will depend on when your chosen colour batch is put through production. If that's the case, I'm guessing again that choosing Velvet Red Metallic probably wasn't the best choice for quick delivery, as at £1075, it's likely to be a fairly short batch at the end of the 20000 orders. At least up until 16th January, there were only 2 models available to order, and most UK orders were likely the 85 Edition.

Had mine now for nearly a month and 600 odd miles. This was going to be a positive report until this morning. Got in the car to find the display on the touchscreen resembling a watercolour in the rain (to borrow a phrase from Al Stewart) and also behaving like our old 1950’s TV when the vertical/horizontal hold was playing up. The unreadable and unusable screen was slowly flipping over and over. I reset it by holding down the on/off button until the screen went black and it’s now okay. My last 2 cars were Mk8 Golf GTi’s and the first one particularly suffered from really annoying software issues. It seems that despite heads rolling at the top, an apology from the new head of VAG and an all new suite of software it’s still beyond VAG to design something that works reliably. It’s been a bit of a shock having this problem so soon after delivery. At least the first Golf waited a few months before introducing “computer says no” mode. Apart from that there’s lots to like and enjoy about the car. I’ll post again on this topic if this glitch appears to be a one off.

A pinhole in a hose close to the DPF would be one possibility. I had a coolant leak once that sprayed a tiny jet onto the exhaust manifold of my mk2 Golf. Dense white smoke coming out of the bonnet edges had me reaching for the fire extinguisher before opening the bonnet to see what was going on. Might be that the hose only gets hot enough and soft enough to leak during regens, making it a bit hard to observe at other times. I guess the heater matrix hoses might go near DPF, not sure what else.

How are you playing music? I found this on Spotify via Android Auto. Go into the Spotify settings on the app and change the streaming quality to very high. Mine was set on automatic which changed the quality to low which made the music sometimes sound rubbish where as the day before it sounded fantastic. I'm very happy with the Canton - it was one of the main reasons I went for an L&K

Hi, Superb 2021 Sportline 2.0TDi - 147kW, 7DSG - Sunroof, matrix lights, Virtual Cockpit, Tow bar, Webasto (Parking heater), 4x4 and more

Hello, Updated from January 2025. Finally, after sending numerous emails and long calls to the importer and the garage, the Webasto remote control from MySkoda app issue has been resolved. It turned out that in the spring of 2024, when the garage replaced the Control Unit for Air Conditioning as a vain attempt to fix the long-open issue with missed scheduled heating, they did not update the module to the better (I don't say right) firmware version. The replaced module had the old version 2101, which has now been replaced with version 2301. After the correct firmware was installed on the module, the Webasto remote control from the MySkoda app was immediately restored. Now, the original problem of randomly missed scheduled heating is back, and it is very soon celebrating its second birthday! At least I reported the issue first on February 1, 2023. Actually, after replacing the air conditioning Control Unit last spring, the missed scheduled heating problem was not solved, but perhaps it became less frequent. On 2025-01-21, I started testing the scheduling again after the firmware upgrade, and since then, the heating has been missed 2 out of 4 mornings. (One plan is configured with weekday morning preconditioning .) I'm basically back where it started 2 years ago. It is unbelievable that nobody is there to identify why the schedule is missed and what should be replaced or the configuration adjusted. Besides having this issue, nowadays, I regularly face the Unavailable status of that car in the MySkoda app in the afternoons/evenings, despite the car always being online in the morning. I believe it started 2024 autumn, but I'm not sure. I even disabled the "Vehicle wake-up" function in the MySkoda app, which has a daily limit of 3, but that did not help. By the way, does anybody have any clue about what wake-up does in the case of Skoda Superb iV? I called Skoda Connect support, and they recommended that I book an appointment at a Skoda garage to restore the functionality without mentioning what the problem is. I believe they have applied some updates to the cloud parts of the infrastructure, and perhaps the OCU must be brought up to a newer version. I think they want me to pay for the fixes, even though Skoda caused the problem by creating a mismatch between the car and the cloud servers. I asked them to clarify the job to resolve the issue. After all, I should make an appointment for something.

Try here:- https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/12419/steering-angle-sensor-calibration-success Thanks. AG Falco

That does not surprise me.

I'm an HGV driver, and start early morning which at this time of year means driving around in the dark for a couple of hours. The amount of berks who rely on this auto dip functionality is a real pain, as (I believe) their headlights don't dip until they detect my beam. Which, on a long straight, isn't until they're quite close to me, meaning for a good few seconds they're heading straight towards me lighting my entire windscreen up with their glare. It's not only dangerous, but can be very painful too. Auto High Beam Assist should be banned by manufacturers world wide. Trust me, I'm no wimp, but you try handling a 42 tonne fully laden truck with trailer on a B road in the rain / mist / fog or even just in the dark, when your entire windscreen is lit up like the face of a torch by some idiot approaching you with their high beam turned on and the glare not only disrupts your vison, but burns at the back of your eyes too 🤬

Thanks all. I’ve decided to go for a 2.0Tdi instead. 6-speed DSG and still only £35 VED. I’ve put a deposit on one this afternoon. Probably pick it up a week on Saturday.

Sorry, Mr McCririck, I can't help, only sympathise with you. I have had four years of having to tolerate this crap. A very weak 12v battery that is likely to let me down at any time. So much so that when it is parked in my garage I always pop the bonnet so that when it doesn't start I can get in and hook up my CTEK battery conditioner without going through the farce of trying to get into the car by the official method of prising off part of the NSF door handle. Honestly, who designs these ridiculous systems? And they call it progress! I have been warned (by Skoda, no less) not to sit in the car when stationary listening to the radio as half an hour of that will flatten the 12v battery. Unbelievable! Anyway, after three Octavias since 2002 I am trading in this iV dud for a new all-electric EV from another manufacturer who, by the way, is as gobsmacked as I am about these VAG-originated faults. My final act on trade-in day will be to take the car behind the supplying dealership and give it a good BasilFawlty-style thrashing. There, I feel better already... PS, the only positive I can offer is that if you haven't got one already, buy a CTEK battery conditioner. Assuming you have a garage or, at least, a drive connect it when leaving the car parked for even two days.

Just an ordinary user. Who tinkers sometime. To be called a "master" in my opinion, one needs to do this job for a living. One needs a workshop with professional tools and a dyno. Without a dyno, adjusting anything out of factory spec, takes painfully long time. If you play with a setting in the distributor advance or carb, (plus in my case, LPG adjustments) you must take the car on a test drive. So what's the big deal? You saying. It's not that simple. The car can run fine on a flat road but when I force it on a sharp uphill climb, it may start pinking. So, one must test it in various circumstances. Not satisfied? Stop, adjust again. Test again. (When finally done, you might find your car start pinking when traveled to sea level 😒 ) You are welcome. So this same issue was present with the old carb. If the issue is about the carburetor overflowing, you can be suspicious about the fuel return route too. The fuel must return to the tank freely without any restriction. If there is any restriction present in the return route, it will increase the pressure on the float pin inside the carb. You know, the fuel lines are beneath the car. Sometimes they can be physically damaged. Causing a collapse on the line.

Gents can you please send me the link to update my BOLERO _p9305p / mu sw 0463. Thank you all!