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Gandalf hit the 6-figure mark today!! Almost 8 yrs, since new. Still puts big smiles on my face 😁 Cheers to another couple of years.

Just missed it!

So I get in the car and the warning "Change key battery" appears. Feeling smug and well prepared, I go to the man drawer and there is a new unopened packet of 2 Long Life 2025 Duracells. A quick flick with a screwdriver opens the key fob and a handy nail flips out the existing battery. It takes a few minutes to open the annoying Duracell bubble pack, but the new battery is soon in, and the key reassembled. I get back in the car, and the "Change key battery" appears again. Strange, I thought, but car started OK and off I went. I get back home after a 10 mile journey, get out off the car and press the fob to lock the doors. Nothing happens. I try again. Nothing happens. I put the key in the ignition and the warning "Change key battery" is still there. Must be a dud battery, I think, but that's very unusual. However, I do have another new battery, I'll use that. I open the fob and take out the battery which falls on to the table. I see a red sticker on the underside. "Harmful if swallowed". I removed it and reassemble the fob. Car doors lock and the ”Change key battery" warning has gone. 🤦🏻

I've posted this in the 'Cost to Charge' thread too. Posting it here as it is a truth about EVs that it is costing me a lot less to run than the equivalent diesel. I've just done my annual calculation of overall cost to charge, which I do on the car's birthday. Last year I did 12017 miles at an average cost of 3.53p/mile. Most charging was done at home and getting onto Octopus Intelligent Go in December has helped enormously to reduce that down from 5.96p/mile for 23/24. (although that higher figure includes 2500 miles around France on public charger rates in September 2023.) Additional costs this year has been the biennial service @£170 and MOT approx. £50. Not sure if the extended warranty I purchased is a 'running cost' but taken as a hedge against the fact most EV problems will be a main dealer to resolve (with associated £155/hour rate!) £260 per annum. I did make use of it last year for suspension issue and door locking issue (new car design issues but not EV specific issues)

Saw a new Mini Aceman electric last night... christ that thing is ugly... at first I thought it was some weird Toyota crossover.

Definitely looks better and matches the black badges at the rear. Should have been standard on Sportline.

<Unlucky Alf> Bugger! </Unlucky Alf> Also aussie spec for some reason?

Found it! Go to car and on the page where you can spin the car round, spin it so it shows the side. Press “opening and closing” and a menu opens up with all the settings for locking and unlocking. All working now!

Yeah, was going to last year but thought I'd wait until spring/summer this year hoping there would be some cheaper ones on eBay! There's a few on eBay but not in Meteor Grey, not a common enough colour I guess. Ordering from Kopacek now, and looking at other stuff on there to waste my money on 🤣

Had my Sportline Plus less than two weeks and in that time I've changed the floor mats to the thicker Superb embossed ones, fitted front and rear mud flaps, changed the washer filler cap to the funnel type, changed the rear wiper arm to the old type and changed all the wipers to new, also had a removable towbar fitted, And have ordered the black and body matched colour badge for the bonnet. Oh and washed it twice thanks to our bloody British weather. It was ceramic coated when I bought it which makes cleaning it so much easier!

I've just done my annual calculation of overall cost to charge, which I do on the car's birthday. Last year I did 12017 miles at an average cost of 3.53p/mile. Most charging was done at home and getting onto Octopus Intelligent Go in December has helped enormously to reduce that down from 5.96p/mile for 23/24. (although that higher figure includes 2500 miles around France on public charger rates.) Additional costs this year has been the biennial service @£170 and MOT.

I had a chuckle at this video, but it could turn out to be true in a while.

He certainly isn't 🙄 The other one that's caught me is getting the message after having changed the battery, so changing it again. Only to realise it was the spare key battery in Mrs Gaz's handbag that needed changing and I'd undoubtedly recycled a perfectly good battery. Idiot 🤬 Gaz

There you go Lee…

I wasn't too sure what I was doing, but after reading your replies & a bit of following my nose, I have now got all 4 windows back to opening & closing on the fob, so PetrolDave & OccyVRS: thanks very much for your help.

So after 8 years it's time to move on from the Superb. I know longer have the need for such a large car and also I'm intrigued to try the EV space so I've just bought a Megane E-tech. The Superb has been without doubt the finest car I have ever owned and I will really miss it. For the space, comfort, versatility, quality and running costs it is untouchable IMO. I always loved the engine, the 1.4tsi ACT is one of VAGs finer efforts, smooth, quick, frugal and reliable. The car has been 100% reliable, never failed to start, never let me down. Wear and tear items were exactly what you would expect, and parts where always affordable when sourced smartly. Now I bought mine when there was great value second hand, and new prices are now crackers, so the current Superb no longer offers the value with once did IMO. Thanks you to everyone here for all the advice and tips over the years, this is a great community and a goldmine of information. I won't be gone 100%, as my wife still has exactly the same car sitting in the driveway for a while yet. :-)

Regrettably I have nothing positive to report. After my mentioned third opinion, the garage were stumped. They had it on the ramp for alignment twice, and both times everything checked out (after adjustments the first time), but upon test drive the car pulled to the right. Unfortunately, the offset is now now even more pronounced. They checked the suspension and steering components, and found nothing of concern. However, they did find that the rear adjustment for alignment/tracking was fused and had to be freed up, so they found it hard to believe that a previous adjustment had been made to the rear, as I'd been told was necessary by the first wheel alignment place. They are intrigued by the issue, and are keen to investigate further (which I am hugely grateful for), so I'm taking it back the week after next for an overnight stay, when the owner of the garage can take a personal look and hopefully figure it out. So far, I've just been charged an hour's labour, albeit a fairly expensive one 😬

This week is detailing polish and ceramic for mine as well. Soon to post some pics when ready! I also took the plunge* and bought the rims, settled on Trinity 18s from Kodiaq, on a brushed/polish finish. It obviously seems I will engage in being VERY careful in driving 😁 * I feel like a featherless chicken, but had to do this sooner or later ... at least the tires were on their last mm so I would have had to spend for them regardless ....

If you are "up for it", you could buy in a set of dust seals and calliper - piston seals, and get the piston out and see if you can polish it clean again. I've suffered a seizing rear calliper on a 2015 VW Polo a couple of years ago, which was a bit disappointing, due to wanting to get the car back running asap, I just bought a re-manufactured Pagid Lucas/TRW calliper via Halfords, then got round to buying in a couple of seal kits and some new aluminium fluid line sealing washers - I really should complete that job this year as if one side had ended up corroding its piston, then the other side must be doing the same thing! I've bought, maybe M16 nuts to act as spacers, so that I can secure the brake discs snuggly on the hub using either wheel bolts or other suitable bolts, so that I can check the discs for "run out". Grooved discs, I bought them for one car as it suffered "brake wash out" in winter, which was a bit scary and VW sorted that out with later models, but, I did end up finding the need to replace one axle set of ATE Power Discs just because corrosion had started to "range out" from each of the grooves probably due to that car only getting used once every 4 weeks in winter, as I was in a "car share" for commuting to work! That was a bit more than annoying.

Wishing or not you have done. You yourself are driving on part worn tyres. Thankfully being judgemental does not make you the judge.

I just did one on a 2012 but should be the same. I replaced hub complete as it was easier. Loosen hub nut with wheel on ground (no more than 90 degrees if not replacing bearing) or get someone to press brakes to lock wheel Removed caliper, disc and hub nut. In theory you can push drive shaft etc back towards Gbox to get to bolts but I ended up removing bottom ball joint and track rod to get in past the gator as I couldnt get square on to the retaing bolts. The bolts are triple square splined. Torq won't fit. I removed ABS sensor as well as I wasn't sure if it would allow the old hub off. Refitting is the reverse but you have to torque hub nut with wheel off the ground as it can damage new bearing if weight is on it before tightening. Make sure you clean any rust etc from socket for new bearing. If you are getting a complete hub it will probably come with new hub bolt. If not get a new hub bolt. Not a bad job but make sure you clean out splined socket bolts to get a proper grip. Last thing you want is to round them and have to drill them out. Meant to add that the front bearing can have 3 or 4 retaining bolts. Make sure you order the correct one. My 08 has 4 but my 12 plate has 3. Hub nut from memory needs a multisplined socket 26mm I think but not sure. Alasdair

Did you order this from Kopacek?

Mine is confirmed for delivery 07/04 through the NHS fleet scheme, leasing company is Volkswagen Group and I’ve officially got a reg showing 🥳

Ran my car with ABS light on for weeks until I got round to fixing it. Brakes still work but no ABS. If theres only 1psi difference I assume its the sensor thats causing the problem. Alasdair

Interesting about the reliability rating... BIL hasnt had any issues with his that i know about 🤷‍♂️

Anyone know rough times from build to delivery. Mine was built last week and last update from dealer yesterday was in transit from the factory

So, the dealership has had the car 6 days (although over a weekend, admittedly). I called in today to ask about progress. Roughly, Skoda won’t authorise a reversion of the software until they have more evidence. They have recommended that the dealership puts the battery on charge and see if that cures it. Six days before they even put the battery on charge, when they already knew the battery state was the issue. This could take WEEKS.

I believe that what JR is saying is ABS will intervene any time the brakes are applied hard to reduce risk of control loss through wheel locking. No matter what speed, the vehicle could be travelling in slippery conditions, which could lead to loss of control through hard brake application without intervention. I've had full ABS mode operate a couple of times at around 10 to 15 MPH when front assist has detected a possible collision risk.

Ordered a 2.0 Graphite Grey back in mid January. Dealer told me it would be around mid April delivery, but the app kept saying June/July. Last week the app changed to 31/5 to 12/6 - before I got an email this weekend from Skoda to tell me to start the activation as the car would soon be available for pickup. Now the app doesn't have any estimated date, but there is a "start activation" button, so I'm assuming it's in the country and about to be delivered to the dealer.

I replaced the stock turbo inlet elbow with an aftermarket one for fun and giggles.

Very sloppy from Car Dealer Magazine. Nice that they show the result as the British Built MINI Electric as most reliable. Yet they publish a picture of a Chinese Built MINI ELECTRIC Cooper SE. (No wheel arch trims.)

Reportedly the most unreliable brand currently on the market it is has been said. Think I would consider a BYD but not a MG/SAIC car. Car Dealer MagazineMG named the most unreliable used car brand as top 10 wor...MG has been named the most unreliable car manufacturer following a survey of nearly 30,000 owners. What Car? quizzed 29,967 owners of used cars up toWhat Car? Reliability Survey: Mo...What Car? Reliability Survey: Most and least reliable sma...In our annual Reliability Survey, we ask readers to rate the dependability of cars aged up to five years old. Here we list the most and least reliable small SUVs in the UK

@Niksan The 265 HP engine has been present on Audi for several years, and I haven’t heard of any issues. The engine code is DNPB if you need more information. Yes, it is the same engine found in the Octavia 4 FL and Kodiaq 2. Oil consumption in the first 12,000 km is minimal, approximately 100 ml, according to the infotainment display, as the dipstick is no longer present.

lol that’s exactly how it is. I was never good at art nor have a steady hand. Don’t, that’s happened to me before. I’m touching wood here, now you’ve said it, that it doesn’t repeat Stupid thing is it’s a tiny scratch. And yes I’ll leave it dirty lol

Interesting to know that. To be honest having a spare option was important to me but the reality is you should hardly ever use it so a space saver does make sense to me especially since I doubt the sub woofer would fit with a full size wheel?

Indirect TPMS uses signals from the ABS wheel sensors to compare the relative rotation of each wheel - if a tyre loses pressure, its circumference reduces, resulting in a change to its rotational speed in relation to the other wheels. The system can also be triggered by increases in pressure caused by an rise in temperature in one (or more) tyre. Presumably, the system averages-out the normal differences in wheel rotational speeds resulting from cornering.

Indeed, it's tied to a lot of other systems, that's why I do not recommend aftermarket units as I have not found any that is 100% compatible with all the features, if you need to replace then IMHO the best in class is original MIB STD2 PQ unit How can I tell if the TV module is installed? => Pls share VIN so I can check. Do you think the original unit is salvageable? I'm pretty sure it can be recovered, pls take it out and share the picture of a label from upper housing.

Summer wheels back on. With Forge 11mm hubcentric spacers all round so it doesn’t look quite like a fat guy with tiny feet. Uploading pics from iPhone seems to flip them upside down. I turned the pictures upside down in my photo album thinking I’d play the system…and it uploads as is, still upside down 🤯

I have the 265hp and the octane recommendation is 95. I am running 98 for now though. There is a rumour that the intake manifold injectors have been removed from this EA888.4 engine which were present in EA888.3 engines.

On the other hand, judging by my partner's interest in the car, it might be her Fabia that I end up in after the dust has settled, so probably best to leave this one as-is for the time being!

Good point, Fabia front seats surely will be drop in fit, I'd think, since the front half basically is a mk2 Fabia.

Plans for tomorrow mainly focus on the oil leak situation, replacing that seal between engine block and oil filter/cooler bracket; then having a good look around each corner at brakes, suspension etc. Saw another handy video just now which confirmed that the alternator can just be moved out of the way a bit, as opposed to being completely extracted out of the engine bay, so most of the oil seal job can be done from above, rather than faffing about with A/C compressor moving, complete removal of alt etc. 🙂 If I get through that I have plenty of other things to look at, but knowing me, I won't. 😁

Only one way to find out, get it steamed off so it's spotless, then run it and monitor.

Could be a number of places? EGR / Turbo / Oil Pan. Suggest you keep an eye on the oil level and book the car in for attention.

the schematic I read that someone use the rear camera wiring to connect the BSD radars with power and Canbus net. this is the schematic of the rear camera wiring. The place of the rear camera wiring is very convenient, is at the right side of the trunk, and has an easy access. it is behind the luggage compartment side trim. I decided to use the same idea. I also decided to use a 4pin connector for my convenience. This is the result. I root the wires thought the rubber gromets at both sides of the car. And inside the trunk. Connected my 4pin connector. Done!!! The only thing left is to root the wires (green and yellow) to the front doors for the notification indicator.

Hi guys, I agree to re-programme app to keep it running normally after 1.6.2025 and maybe add setting option to saving driving data to a private or alternative server. Something like Synology or small online webstore as Webshare... It looks like Skoda is running out of space on their servers for this app or no willing to continue with support.

Updated Information ! This download is a new BETA/TEST Version! Ok everyone - here's some brief info. I haven't forgotten about my thread. Like yourselves I'm fed up of waiting to do a new update but the preferred database that I normally use and convert hasn't been updated or shared for quite a while. I've therefore borrowed the same sourced database that's being used for a totally different satnav device and converted them instead. This database uses different and somewhat confusing speedcam categories to the ones that I'm used to using so I've had to amalgamate some of them. Regard this update as a TEST VERSION and if you have any issues or feel they're not satisfactory then you can re-download my previous ones until I do a new update. All feedback is quite welcome even if it might take a while for me to reply. Latest Updated Speedcams - March, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( March, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into three consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams and Average Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - March, 2025.zip * Credit to Sunnyside Navi and Gpsurl for the use of this database without which these files would not have been compiled.

We're all Skoda brothers and sisters. Worse things in life than this sort of thing - let's try and focus on getting the lights sorted chaps 👍

There are plenty of suggestions online that older systems only worked at high speeds. I can't see any confirmation regarding the speed ABS works down to on modern VAG vehicles. I'd expect it to work down to almost zero given it'll have various accelerometers, yaw, roll sensors etc and know when the vehicle is actually at a standstill. Thinks have moved on quite a bit since the earlier ABS systems