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We spotted our first Goslings earlier and then watched the sunset whilst listening to The Stranglers😎

Haven't been active for over a year just wanted to pop by and say hi and show you my new addition my 280 💪🏼

I have been driving a new MK4 estate with Jeff Gosling hand controls since October without any problems with the positioning of the gear selector. I had Merc's before that have a similar layout so maybe I have just got used to it. I cant even think what procedure I use, just do it automatically.

That looks great. I keep driving past the Maxton Design factory and always wondered what it did 😂

New information from @ixtra More info here: New maps MIB2-Standard v.2410 in www.ateca-forum.de https://www.ateca-forum.de/index.php?thread/1945-navi-ohne-plus-daten-und-update/&postID=304254#post304254

@Giannis20 @Felix2021 I have been looking for this thread a long, long time. Happy I found it, kudos to you @Giannis20 In the meantime I did a research which I think may bring some more worthy details. Currently I drive a company car Skoda Superb IV 2024 (code NZ) which is a base model missing, among few things, a rear USB-C section. I dig a lot in wiring diagrams of other modern cars of VAG group and here is what I found: It seems VAG completely dropped USB-hub solution, it happened depending on the car model in years 2019-2022, so any wiring diagrams dated before are with this regard (usb wiring) obsolete now. Currently, in all modern VAG cars (model years 2023+) there are two USB (namely USB-C) solutions, that have been gradually implemented in all VAG car models in recent years. I present them in accordance to PR codes: (1) U9E: External, USB type C data socket(s) and charging socket(s) with increased charging performance In this solution there are two double usb-c sockets capable 45W delivery (fast charging): front - double usb-c VAG part 5NA 035 700 rear - double usb-c VAG part 2G6 035 718 and a front mirror socket (I guess up to 15W) VAG 3V0 035 954 or alternatively 1J0 937 510 This solution is offered in higher segment cars or sometimes as an option (higher trim), for instance T-Cross, Octavia, Superb but please note that VAG uses strong market segmentation. This means endless matrix of countries, car brands, model years and trim levels. (2) U9C: External, USB type C data socket(s) and charging socket(s) In this solution there are two double standard usb-c sockets offering slow charging. front - double usb-c VAG part 5NA 035 736 rear - double usb-c VAG part 2G6 035 954 This solution is offered is lower segment cars (e.g. VW Polo MY 2024). Upon my research no front mirror is offered in this segment. (3) U9B: External, USB type C, only data socket(s) or U9G External, USB type C data socket(s) with increased charging performance There is also a mixed solution (see my comment above about market segmentation) which usually, I would say mostly offers only one double, slow-charging usb-c socket in front VAG part 5NA 035 736. This is for instance a case for Octavia Superb IV (2024) Essence or only one front double usb-c fast 45W charging socket. There is only one front usb-c VAG part 5NA 035 736. No rear or front mirror sockets. Further, there is no harness either to a mirror or to rear part of the car (if you hope to find harness ready to plug-and-play, don't bother, Volkswagen saves every penny). IMPORTANT - WIRING DIFFERENCES Please check this carefully own you own, but I found that the main difference between solution 1 (fast charging) and 2(standard, slow) is: Solution 1 - PR code U9E, parts 5NA 035 700 (front) + 5NA 035 718 (rear) 4-pin socket 8K0 973 754 Pin 1 - KL30a - +12V battery (positive) Pin 2 - VS5V - 5V line Pin 3 - KL58 - instrument lighting Pin 4 - GND - ground Solution 2 PR Code U9C parts 5NA 035 736 + 5NA 035 954 Pin 1 - KL30a - +12V battery (positive) Pin 2 - GND - ground Pin 3 - KL58 - instrument lighting Pin 4 - empty or VS5V (check specific mode wiring diagram). Note: slow charging solution probably can work without 5V line (pin 4). Note: based upon wiring diagrams (see attached for Skoda Superb iV) both solutions use same size positive wires (pin 1) 0,75, but fast charging solution has more ground connections vs to slow charging. Tip: (any car) if you tired to swap 1:1 slow charging front double usb-c slow charging socket 5NA 035 736 to fast charging 5NA 035 700 note that you probably have to re-pin the connection socket - and swap pin 2 and 4 (fast charging solution has GND on pin 4 while slow charging on pin 2). All for now. I hope it helps. Disclaimer: any modifications of the original wiring is at your own responsibility. Any information above is only for research purposes and please never treat it as a guide or instruction. You have always to double check or better use professional car workshop. Skoda Superb IV (NZ) - USB charging sockets solution.pdf

As Temperatures are rising in Germany, I am changing from Winter Wheels... ...to the 19" Summer Wheels - completely different Car...

Your car may only be using accelerometer sensors as e.g. when you go through a tunnel the sat nav still tracks the car's movement even when it's not receiving any gps signals.

It looks to me as though it might be related to the undertray, wheel arch liners and/or front bumper - as a sort of linking piece to connect two parts together/ brace them. Ive seen something very similar underneath my previous VW.

I have the same 190bhp 2.0TSI and it is nicely economical when you want it to be.

With attitude displayed in this very thread, I'm not sure it's a matter of "a few years later"...... Same arguement can be used for individuals, would it make much difference if one only account for 0.00000001% of global emissions..... so what happens when vast majority think like this?

Since last year i had replaced the following H&R Front & Rear ARBs Whiteline adjustable drop links front and rear Superpro front lower arms Bilstein B6 shocks front and rear It has transformed the car so much feels lot nicer then before. So much more responsive then with stock set up. Springs are still standard no plans to be lowering it...yet 🤓 I had tracking done after and everything aligned spot on. No uneven wear on tyres since then.

then choose one in between

I expect @MartiniB will post the complete list of links when he's got some spare time but meanwhile here's the link for the new full Europe map: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2410_V21.7z

Thank you Carlston for that extensive list that gives me plenty of scope. Chills I think you may be talking about dye penetration check. The company that I would go to carry this out also with sounding checks. Amongst many other checks truing etc. Any refurbishment carried out is guaranteed. As I've said I would not fit inferior or damaged wheels to my car but many thanks for your concern. Others may read the post in the future and stuff any old salvaged wheels on without getting them properly assessed by a professional.

It dropped a bit. Maybe 5-10mm. The adaptive dampers already let it sit lower as standard. I think the total drop from a standard factory setup without adaptive is about 20mm. I’ve had no issues whatsoever. No more hitting bump stops over the slightest thing and has never been a problem when filled on journeys. It practically doesn’t dip at all when 4 up. No problems over speed bumps etc.

Thank you for the reply. Apologies but here is my late update on what happened. The AA came out on fleet breakdown insurance. They did not tow me. They swapped out my battery for a fully charged one. And just just told me to drive 16 miles (13 miles motorway) 22 mins with them following behind me. They told me it was standard protocol to not tow vehicles with bad alternators. But to do what they did. Apparently, the longest trip he did like that was 50 miles. Swapped out another battery half way through. Also told me a fully charged battery should do 25-30 miles with aircon / lights / music off etc. So I guess, I could have just charged the battery up myself.

You could unclip the port and re rout everything behind the screen. It would leave a gap but you could find a way to fill it. But again, wireless would be the way to go.

Planning to charge via granny charger for a couple of months. 90% of my driving is on the M6 so 50 miles each way twice a week with a trip down south once a month going forward. With work i can plug into there ev charge stations. I took it out for test drive loved it but battery was dead so was just utilsing the petrol. Put my foot down at 70 and there was a fair delay before it moved. I tend to stick in inside lane at 60-70mph anyway but there are always times that you need a bit of extra power if someone is driving erratically to avoid an accident. Is this typical of the car or just because the battery was dead? Is a 2l manual a better decision. Sadly i want something with lower miles but 3 other cars im looking at are 200 miles away. One skoda used which is 2l with dsg but at least is covered by warranty for the year. The others have 10k less miles both diesel and manual gear boxes. I feel octavia may suit as a better all rounder/suffient for my needs but then i just see the superb as the better car overall.

I phoned Ken this morning and learned the oil used at Transmission Technology for the DQ381 is PETRONAS Tutela Multi DCT 700. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-226851-petronas-tutela-multi-dct-700-transmission-fluid.aspx Data sheet below: https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/petronas/20201102-Petronas-Tutela-MultiDCT700-TDS.pdf IMO, that "data sheet" has a bit too much self-congratulatory guff about how great the oil is, but there it is. So there you have it. EDIT: God help me, but here are links to the latest updated data & safety sheets, in case anyone is interested. 😄 https://uk.pli-petronas.com/index.php/en-gb/product/10461/pdf

Not surprising to hear top brass say those things around early 2010 before the Model S. Nissan Leaf and Zoe that were only good for 80 miles were the view on EV's in 2010's if Tesla didn't exist.

It is like Audi forget that they were Endurance Racing and planning from the R&D to have Diesel Hybrids. They built car factories to build them in South & North America and in Hungary and the engine and motor factories. It went tits up because VW Group were caught being lying little bar stewards over emissions. They had some very efficient diesel hybrids, just very expensive. Billions were written off when the mass production never went ahead.

The 2 second delay is normal hill hold on a Skoda Kamiq.

IME you just switch the ignition on and then look properly rather than starting the engine or putting your seatbelt on during the BITE check. OK, that won't test the light bulb telltales but will test the others.

The Eibach pro kit works extremely well with those shocks. No rubbing even with 4up and the dog in the boot. Sits lovely and rides better than standard springs.

That looks amazing 😍

AIUI, all authenticator apps will work fine.

We can fit any factory option to you car (and in a lot of cases, non factory options) www.eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk

The change was from Synthetic to mineral. '34F5'. started 2014 in the UK on ones 2009-2012. Late 2012 not done. then 2013 with synthetic '34H5' was started in 2017, a software update. Plenty pics of oil changes in DQ200,s on this forum. Yes the colour changes, and there is lots of mess around the Dry Clutches. Plenty couple of hundred thousand mile DQ200,s about. The failure rate was bad, but nothing near the DQ381,s. Different though, 2009-2012, selector forks, clutch packs, fuses etc. the 2013 on the actuator & MCU being the common issue. and the 'Famous DQ200 Clutch Slip.' thread in the Fabia Mk3 section.

The issue with the sealed for life boxes is that service kits exist! That's not to mention the change from mineral to synthetic. The dealer service advisors wouldn't know a service interval if it came and smacked them in the head. It's not their fault, but they are utterly useless. VW claim the service isn't needed as the oil isn't contaminated by anything. I've seen the oil on a DQ200 after it had just crossed about 105,000 miles. Trust me, it needed changing. BTW - if the DQ250 box wants changing at 40k, how come the DQ381 doesn't? I refuse to believe that the clutches or filters are somehow superior, not to mention I suspect most 381 boxes have a harder life than 250s. Let's not forget, good cars or not, this is the company that has paid out over 30 billion for cheating emissions tests. I'm not saying I don't trust them, but at the end of the day people will service their cars how they want to - be it early preventative, or the bare minimum.

If it does it when accelerating, then it would do it all the time (3000rpm in first at 14mph is the same as 3000rpm in 7th at 90mph). I agree with the above, easiest point to start is the wheels. It's not anything flywheel or gearbox related - that would be noticeable when pulling away (unless it's an issue with a specific higher gear). That said, I would get a professional to check it out. It could be a million things, from a bad CV to an unbalanced wheel, to a loose engine mount and everything in-between. Forums are good for specific, problematic issues - IMO this is just too much of a vague issue to try and remedy without an inspection.

VW Authorised repairers, Techs, Fitters or UK Main Dealerships THINK because VW tell them that the FILTER is replace at each 2nd service. They also have the Servicing as @ 80,000 miles. It would not be the first time someone once made s typo or messed up km to miles. Also German, to Czech to English / American English. A good guide is often what Audi say for servicing. Where VW / Skoda / SEAT had 40,000 miles for a DSG Audi had 38,000 miles for a s-tronic. Austrians maybe convert km to miles differently. As it is the failure rate of DQ381,s is surely going to have class actions against them some place, or maybe in Australia the Lemon Law will bite their bum. My mate is one of the top Auto Special in Scotland if not the top. Dealerships put cars to him. He does the procedure to oil temp as per required. No point cutting corners / time, do it once and do it right and no oil overfilling. .

Had new rear valance fitted from Maxton ...V2...love it

I agree with @EnterName and the mechanic Ken - that 80k miles is waayyy to long for a box service. About 40-50k miles seems more prudent; however we all have differing views. Some of us are old-school and prefer to make sure that the lubrication and filters are kept clean and well maintained - on the principle of trying to keep the vehicles going for as long as possible whilst keeping our carbon footprint to a minimum. Others have the opposite views and do only the bare-minimum or exactly what is required only when absolutely necessary. The trouble is that VAG want you to continue to change out your car for the latest/shinest thing. At the moment, the economy is kind of on the floor here in the UK, so keeping and maintaining what we have is appropriate; swapping out cars every three years - model - is now bust (especially considering new car prices). Those of us who want to keep our vehicles running as well as they can - will do what we can to keep them that way. Last of the coal-rollers!

A couple of points I'd make on Ken's advice. VAG make the boxes and VAG say 80k miles so the service schedule is 80k miles. Others may advise to change early, and I agree with them, but that doesn't change the schedule. Personally I'll do a 40k or 4 years having owned 12 DSG's. That's what I feel comfortable with and the same reason I don't do variable servicing. Wet Clutch boxes do have a slight drag in Drive, that's how they are designed, this is mainly hydraulic drag as the plates are lubricated, the plates are not grinding away on a flywheel. On the dry clutch box the plates are clear in D at idle. Other independents and some respected tuners and rebuilders have monitored fluid temp rise at idle in D and concluded even for a few minutes there's no significant rise. I've also seen it suggested that worn out clutches are extremely rare in the DQ381, they will reliably handle torque way above the gearboxes rating but mechatronic failure is far more common. Perhaps switching between D and N constantly is placing far more operations on the Mechatronic? I suppose it's down to which you feel more comfortable doing? Potentially saving a little wear on the clutch by adding wear on the mechatronic? And running the car as designed with stop/start enabled leaving the car in D with the engine off there's zero wear and zero temp increase. I suppose even more so if you have autohold.

This outfit does a limited range of OEM fitments for Skoda: https://www.hazzydayz.com But they are not cheap and they certainly don’t do all the upgrades you want. Probably cheaper to trade in your car for a newer model.

My issue was hesitation 1st to 2nd that meant i put in Sport at quite a lot of junctions and then get smoothly joining traffic when in traffic in town. The worst ever was the Golf 2.0 TDI 115ps with a DQ200 DSG. Now because i am mostly in the Electric MINI and occasionally others with the power or mode not at sport to stop wheel spin pulling away i find any petrol or diesel automatic i drive really quick just because the accelerator and movement is OK but not wheel spinning in the way a FWD EV can be. For QUICK getaways i do as i did with the Mk2 Fabia vRS. Start to roll a little bit then boot it.

TBH if it were me I'd be inclined to take my business elsewhere if they are being difficult unless the quote was a very good one and they can explain why they want the photos

As it’s such a new purchase could you ask the garage to apply any necessary updates? Updating the Infotainment system won’t necessarily solve issues as it can be down to different modules needing firmware updates which the Infotainment system update don’t include.

You'll be looking at a Mk3 Superb and this is the Mk4 forum - I've flagged for a moderator to move to the Mk3 forum where you should get more responses.

Latest Updated Speedcams - April, 2025. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( April, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams ( which now include European tunnel speedcams ), Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - April, 2025.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for the use of his database which was used and converted in order to compile these files.

High idle for short period after start is normal - appears to be much more noticeable on the 1.0TSI than on my 1.4.

I have been driving my Mk4 Superb estate with hand controls for a few weeks now. As per my previous comments on this thread I can reach through the steering wheel whilst stationary to select D or R and have just got used to this set up. Doing a 3 point turn in a street not much wider than the Superb is long was a bit of a faff though.

Might be interesting to have a looksee, thanks, will PM you this afternoon.

You may well need a software update, but the best safeguard is to never place the key in the car, in your pocket is a lot safer.

Kudos for posting an update with solution 👍

@Bazmcc to get the switches to work the right (correct) windows with the LHD motor module in place, you'd need to cross over the wires coming from switches E40 and E81 in the lower left corner of this pic to the window motor (J386) connectors. They are white/black and black/green wires. You could also correct the direction of motion of the driver's side window by rotating the metal motor housing 180° so the label faces the other side. There are permanent magnets inside which give the field a polarisation. The disadvantage of this is that the electronics will probably still think it is lifting the glass when it's actually lowering it, and vice-versa. The anti-pinch function that stops you trapping fingers/limbs in the window while it's going up will likely not work (cos I can't see why it would be programmed to work on downward glass motion). Do at your own risk, and ideally tell any subsequent owners about it. If you decide to try this, you can probably do as follows, for minimum risk of damage: 1. Defeat (simultaneously) the 6 plastic clips that hold the circuitboard section in and pull that out and clear. 2. Undo the 4 torx screws that hold the motor housing to the plastic casing. 3. Gently pull the motor housing with rotor and brushpack away, wiggling/turning the beige gear in the appropriate direction will help it come out 4. Leaving the rotor where it is, pull the brushpack carefully away from the motor housing enough to be able to turn the latter relative to the former. 5. Turn the motor housing by 180° 6. Refit brushpack, easing the brushes into place on the commutator. Take the opportunity to clean things a little first if there's tons of carbon dust about. 7. Refit motor with opposite direction wiggle/turn of beige cog to help It's best to leave the rotor shaft fully in the metal casing, rather than pull it plus brushpack out to rotate the housing. The bush/bearing at the end of the metal housing can easily be knocked round out of position as the rotor shaft is refitted, due to the magnets pulling the rotor out of alignment. If the rotor shaft doesn't go back in right this bush tends to get destroyed as the motor housing is bolted back up. Let me know if you want me to repair a correct module instead.

Pete's service is highly recommended! Our 2007 Roomster suffered from intermittent windows for approx. 2 years. Dealers could not find the problem. It's not easy to diagnose the faulty Drivers side motor as defective door-looms and switches may show similar symptoms. Problem was, the 'dead' windows would work if both sides are disconnected, left a while and re-connected. Then they work until the ignition is switched off for a period of time. After that, they are 'dead' again. If window-switches and door-looms are confirmed OK (and they are cheap + easy to change) then the drivers side motorcontrol-module almost certainly needs repair. As Pete says, other VW group vehicles from this period, e.g. Polo, Transporter use the same motors and are similarly affected. I sent the suspect motor to Pete who immediately confirmed it was defective, did the repair work and put it on test. Within days I had the repaired motor back in place, both window functions restored immediately (just needing to reset the 'one-touch' function). Congratulations to Pete who persevered to research and resolve this common fault, making a repair economically effective (other option is a replacement motor, around the eyewatering £200, only from Skoda / VAG dealers). The great bonus is that a perfectly good motor unit does not need to be thrown away because of a repairable module fault. Well done Pete. Highly recommended, and a very knowledgeable and valuable member of the Skoda community.