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@Breezy_Pete thanks. If your referring to the large brick looking thing then I may have found the issue. It is currently nearly in 2 prices hanging down. Not attached to anything. It looks like it has had a nasty hit against something. The car under tray and wheel arch cover are broken quite a bit. So I'm guessing someone has run over something at some point and damaged it. I will look up later tonight when I get home and get a replacement ordered and also fabricate a bracket as well as one for the ECU on the bulkhead. I'm trying to juggle work and the car. We are too busy to get the fabia in to get it welded and painted but it will all get done at some point

Hello, after reading this thread, I decided to share the information I’ve gathered so far. I started experiencing the same symptoms as others described here: randomly increasing volume, key press sounds, unexpected screen restarts, and the display overheating. These issues occurred occasionally, mostly when using Android Auto: Waze, Spotify, etc. Updating the software from version 1896 to 1941 seemed to worked for a while. However, after about two weeks, all the symptoms returned, and the infotainment system began to restart endlessly. The restarts persisted even when the car was turned off and locked, throughout the night, and by morning, the car's battery was drained, I couldn't start the engine and had to jump-start it. Then, the infotainment restarts continued. The next morning, I couldn’t even unlock the car wirelessly due to a completely dead battery. At that point, I decided to contact my local Škoda dealer to report the issue. The person I spoke to said they had never seen such problems before and suggested I bring the car in for diagnostics. Since my car is no longer under warranty, and given the dealer’s attitude, I suspected they would charge me for every service. So, I decided to replace the display unit myself. I purchased a used display unit (5E3 919 605, HW version H49) from Poland for €180. Following the workshop manual, I disassembled the decorative trim and removed the top screw covers. Then pulled fuses 30 (infotainment) and 46 (infotainment display), swapped the displays, reconnected the fuses, and boom, everything worked like a charm! I've been driving occasionally for a week now, and so far, no problems have reappeared. My key takeaways:Replacing the display unit can be a DIY job. No coding needed and no component protection warning. A higher hardware version of the display is compatible with the older infotainment unit. Specs:Model Year: 2020 Display unit: was H44, now H49 Infotainment: H56 Software: 1941

2025 Skoda Kodiaq fitted with a genuine electric folding towbar with integrated 13 pin electrical connector The installation has been recorded against the vehicles build data, and it integrates as if factory fit. The towbar has a 2 year warranty handled by any Skoda main dealer https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/products/skoda-kodiaq-mk2-genuine-powerfolding-towbar-retrofit?_pos=2&_sid=8161e5f73&_ss=r VW - AUDI - SEAT - CUPRA - SKODA - PORSCHE - BENTLEY - MAN - FORD - VOLVO - BMW - & MORE! •Dealer level diagnostics •Coding •OE retrofits •Apple CarPlay •Android Auto •Component protection removal •Map updates •Software updates •Autowatch Ghost II immobilisers •Thatcham approved trackers •Remapping •Servicing •ADAS repairs & calibrations •Towbars • & more! ☎️ 01262 362116 📧 [email protected] 🌐 www.eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk

Good God almighty people, why do we have to bicker so? this is a generally lovely forum to be on, and its up to us memebers to keep it like that. @Exkiwi Differences of opinion happen, but its a lot easier to get along with a friendly tone than being confrontational even when opinions differ...

I got the door loom replaced at a garage that does body repairs etc. I know the owner, and the chap he entrusted the job to. He's used to doing this sort of job; it took him just over an hour to do so not worth me even attempting to do it. Thanks for all the help Pete ;-)

As per @Ootohere, I also live in a hilly area (in the Pennines) and it is second nature for me to tap the throttle to enter coasting mode the millisecond I have crested a brow, to coast down the other side. I know my area like the back of my hand, and if I enter coasting at the right time and in the right place I can be coasting literally for miles before any form of intervention, i. e. braking or acceleration, is needed. I'd defy anyone to tell me I am not saving fuel by doing this, you don't even need to look at mpg comparisons to know it, it's obvious. The one thing I don't quite get from the OP from @Pooroldcodger is that you say it entered coasting while motorway cruising. Was this under manual control using the pedal and you'd taken your foot off the pedal, or other? Just that you can't enter coasting mode while using cruise control. Just curious. And on the other discussion about coasting while going downhill with a severe gradient and bends...mine both will and won't go into coasting, when I tap the throttle. On the same stretches of road time and time again it is baffling as sometimes the car will let me go into coasting, other times it flat refuses and insists on putting itself into a gear that is always far too low for the speed I'm doing - at which point I go manual.

That battery report seems off. It states 1212 days standing time (which I assume is time parked up) but standing time fully charged of 2177 which is the entire life of the car more or less. Either someone messed up the report (unlikely as its software driven) or someone has been messing about with the BMS stats IMO. For comparison my 2021 ID.4 has 54376 miles (87000km) on it and I measure my battery SoH (by charging from 2% to 100%) to be 93%. 77kWh battery.

I have yellow stuff with BSD discs. No issues. Good pedal even from cold.

I think if you have an RS now you’ll be disappointed going down. As was mentioned it isn’t just the engine (which is more powerful in 4.5 guise with snappier DSG tuning) but the lower spec cars don’t even have independent rear suspension. If the money is the issue so be it but if it you have an RS now because you appreciate what the car is and enjoy driving it I doubt you’ll be happy with the cooking model

A used one, probably from totaled vehicle, with no specific info about the origin, hence the price. I have found it on site called 'srotas' It looks like some kind of second hand parts concentrator with its own distribution over europe. Not the most legit looking site in my opinion, but the display came like described.

@AGFalco^ makes me want one just like that. If circumstances change and you want to sell, please let me know. 😁

I realised, I never posted my experience after I got the braces and links installed. I can't really tell which one made a difference as I installed the rear and front swaybars + the strut brace all at once. The car is definitely a lot sharper in bends and corners about 10-15 km/h faster than before with no effort. The bar links on the other hand...the front ones are either a bad batch or just bad quality...had to go twice as the nearside kept getting loose. If I had to do it all over again, I won't upgrade the links unless I decide to lower the car beyond what is practical. Overall, paired Michelin PS4s rubber, it's made the right amount difference in handling and I don't think I lost much on comfort considering our French country roads.

Other than performance I think you'll notice... the ride & handling - suspension setup likely different, smaller wheels with higher profile tyres headlights - Matrix lights may not be standard on the 1.5tsi the 'toys' - the vRS probably comes with a few more as standard fuel economy - the 1.5tsi will be notably more frugal unless regularly extract the maximum performance Insurance premium Which of those are positives and which are negatives is hard to say; only you can judge the relative value and if they're worth the additional cost or saving. For me, the 1.5tsi is more than adequate. Performance punchy enough when I need it with ride and handling which are fine. Tyres can make a big difference, mine came with Michelin Primacy 4, now on Goodyear EfficientGrip (205/55-17); a sportier tyre may improve handling - but you probably know that already.

Update, I rejected the car, received a full refund. As I had a load of electronic issues with it from the day I parked it on my drive, was unable to get into the car 3 times over the 4 days I owned it. Seemed to be a battery drain issue with it. Wasn't prepared to wait 2 weeks to book it into skoda for a diagnostic to see whether ot not it was covered under manifacturers warranty or not. Do wothout a reliable car whilst I waited. So the supplying dealer took it back and gave me a full refund, after I rejected it under the 30 day rule. I've now put a deposit down on another mk4 2.0tdi sel dsg, from a different dealer. Hopefully I'll pick that up next week.

Returning (once again!) to bass2004's original enquiry. Although there are no immediately visible markings on my 2024 Fabia SE L's battery to identify its make, type and capacity, on the label near its positive terminal is the code "692 515 RA". An internet search retrieves a German ebay advert for a new original VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda start/stop battery (€149) that carries that code . The advert includes the photo below (692 515 RA code green-arrowed) and the visible parts of my Fabia's battery match that photo. Consequently, I'm happy to accept that my car's battery is a Varta product and EFB+ type. The GOOGLE-search also retrieved larger size/capacity similar-appearance batteries (all EFB+ marked) said to be original-fit on VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda cars with start/stop. As I said in the past, my car's battery-tray has extra bolt-holes for its hold-down bracket indicating that longer batteries (two different lengths) could be accommodated. So it's possible that Fabias with the 1.5litre 4-cylinder motor and/or that are marketed in 'cold climate' countries have a larger capacity EFB+ battery. However, as bazz2004's 2023 Fabia Monte Carlo apparently has a "TSI 110 bhp" motor, it's likely that his car has exactly the same specification battery as my car's.

from what I can find, there is only a bush for the axle beam and another on the ARB

As to paying going up. Try an EV where you can see exactly what is gained. I often go up on route / road a direct why, shorter steeper climb but return the longer route with the same drop in elevation but more regenning / coasting. Generating power. Like cycling routes in a circular manner really, anti clockwise or clockwise, same journey different energy exerted. That can be measured easily e-biking. Power / assistance required. How much battery to you get home with or not.

Hi, The screen protector definitely worked and did good job of masking 90% of the marks. It gives it a slightly more matt finish, and is easier to clean with out further risk of scratching.

Timing belt kit with oil pump belt and water pump https://m.autodoc.de/contitech/16172363 Crankshaft gasket front https://m.autodoc.de/elring/9592247

It's the digitised road speed on the map. Ah Wales... where I'm sat. If it's mib2 high columbus or mib3 it's Here Maps. They updated all the roads on the system. For mib2 high you need to update the maps. Connect services for mib3 would do it for you but if out of contract MartiniBs files pinned. SD card based mib2. Use the latest maps, these are TomTom equally they updated the digital roads like HereMaps from the Welsh Government map file where they agreed the speeds limits with each LA. So I'd say you are using old maps. TSR will override the digitised road speed but once you pass onto a new digital segment on the map it will take the map speed. Hence it will revert if you are using old maps. Check out MartiniBs pinned map updates. If mib1. May be more tricky. I have pointed people to a mib1 2023 update where it's possible it may have the new Welsh speeds. Mib1 update you have to use a teething approach which is used on Seat's. Works on Skoda as well. Since the Welsh speeds came in, in 2023 and the latest mib1 for Audi which can be used is 2023... might not be in it. You'd have to check. Whether there will be an Audi 2024 release pass. The files are compatible with a small edit.

We’re within a whisker of catastrophic overthought. Do what you think is best to stop it all falling off 👍

13mm. Put one of the studs in your pocket when you go out for some, and ideally get nylocks. Put a washer each side of the supplied bracket because the holes are oversize.

Some good deals about at the minute. Tempted to upgrade our June 24 SE-L to a Sportline but I’m put off by the glass roof and its potential to give trouble - and to be fair we bought the SEL to see out (certainly mine) days without having to buy one of the EV offerings. Curiously, the insurance on a new Sportline is coming up somewhat cheaper than the 1 year old SEL, £240 v £290……?

Nice little win on the way down - but, like me, you pay when coming back…….

Remember, In a modern car faults stack up. A blocked particle filter will cause the engine ECU to put the car in a limited power mode (That's the EPC light). This in turn will turn on the dreaded orange "check engine" light. Sometimes, even if you solve the original problem, (particle filter) you'll need to clear the fault codes using an OBD II reader.

And watch out for bow waves from idiots driving too fast through the water causing a much deeper surge.

Thanks for the update. It's always helpful for people to post the solution to problems they post on here.

Yep. Using the Start button to get the engine running again the car needs to be stationary and foot on the brake pedal. However, I found that when I [through my own ineptitude] stall mine, that by depressing the clutch pedal the Stop/Start kicks in and fires up the engine. This works when the car is both stationary and when rolling. The stop/start in my 2020 mk4 is more sophisticated than my previous 2014 Superb mk2 (both petrol). It now stops the engine whilst rolling slowly (<=3mph or thereabouts) in neutral and foot off the clutch. It will restart when the car in front moves forward regardless of what I do with the clutch. Turning the steering wheel also restarts the engine.

Well, I'm sure that'll help the OP no end 🙄

I think it's a bit sensationalist to describe a stalling car as "MAJOR safety issue" and "Very dangerous"

It is a valid question raised though. Given the remap improving acceleration and top speed, how are you going to drive the car differently that will affect braking? If you will be braking from higher speeds or more often or loaded up with more weight, then updating the brakes is a valid requirement. But if not, then there’s no particular need to update them However, if you just want to then that’s a good enough reason, it’s your car. I got updated brakes partially for that reason but I’d be lying if there wasn’t a sense of vanity in there. You just have to factor the cost in. EBC have a longstanding reputation - however they’re the only one I’ve seen with a pad break up. However, it’s anecdotal. Ferodo, Mintex, Pagid all have fast road pad options and all decent reputations.

I think it's a lost battle - OP was asked for this eleven hours and thirty comments ago. That being said, I think I've found the petroleum/oil company -

Thanks to everyone for all of your suggestions to resolve my interior light/alarm issue. I have recently had a new vehicle battery (start/stop) fitted and the issue with the alarm going off at random intervals has resolved itself. It must just have been a coincidence that my battery was failing at the same time as I fitted the interior light cluster. Presumably the low battery voltage set off the vehicle alarm to warn me that the battery was on its way out? A dashboard warning would have been far more helpful if this was in fact correct?

Probably a small stone or piece of grit that caused the groove. It will be long gone now. I doubt it will cause any problems with brakes and should wear out eventually. Alasdair

Hello, This is my Scala style, bought second hand with 105k klm on the clock Thanks for having me

Thanks.

There must be lots of much better ones to be found.

So i got my answer from the vw forum. It turned out to be the led lights in the trunk. It seems, i quote the forum "swapping the bulb out for an LED changes the resistance of the bulb which changes the voltage on the monitoring connection - and so it makes sense that the change results in "boot lid open"." I switched back and forward between the led and normal bulb and the notification would only appear with the ked Bulbs.... So problem solved

Thanks for your help. It was the wrong one. The pipe is apparently something to do with a water sensor in the fuel which presumably relates to later models, but it was the one that came up on euro car parts website when I ordered it. Having just searched it again, the website now lists the correct fuel filter. Had the same problem with Halfords, who also got the air filter wrong as well... Anyway, correct one now fitted, all good. Thanks.

Good i found this topic :) i have the 2025 1.5 150 HP Mild Hybrid, and the brake pedal feels funny sometimes, but got used to it :) its my first Mild Hybrid car.. i had full Hybrid Elantra before.. (Skoda is MUCH better car)

Okay. Firstly, nice job on the hubs and replacement calipers. No job is wasted - it's just one more thing to rule out. That being said, I think we have found your problem. In the first video, you get the issue with the caliper off. That sounds to me like it's the wheel bearing. Normally you get a grinding noise, but the squealing can be an early sign of it going. If it was on the front then that's a different story, but IMO I would take a look at the bearing. IIRC I was quoted £380 from Skoda. Picked it up from Skoda-parts.com for I think £270. Cheapest was Fish Brother Skoda Parts in Swindon, which I think were slightly cheaper. Do you have anything planned for the old calipers? Might be worth giving them a service and selling - manual handbrake 310mm calipers are quite hard to come by.

Got the old one off, with predicted struggle. Secondary water pump shifted off it and tied up out of the way, then driveshaft off and out of the way. Wouldn't really be do-able without driveshaft shifting, and would be another step easier with front exhaust/cat section off but that's a mission of its own, so haven't done that. Pretty grubby, as expected.

v1.31.56 was released last November.... I've had it a while. The email you had sent you said the update that was meant to be released last week was v1.31.58. I've just checked the site again and it does now have the latest version available to download as v1.31.58 (12/03/2025) so the latest update is now live.

And have email: "please try again, we just released the update. Best regards, dein phonostar-Team"

It is not marginal where the route suits and you might be using less fuel. Head from the coast in Scotland towards the centre, mountains / hills you are going sea level to maybe 2,000 feet above sea level. You are using fuel climbing, coming back not using Coasting then maybe less fuel used because mostly down hill. Use coasting next time returning, and see if you save fuel. Come into Glasgow from the south on the M77 and down into Glasgow and in the 4-5 miles if you are able to keep moving and Coasting you can compare to doing the same at another time and not coasting. Location location location. But Coasting Enabled costs you nothing to try and when you do the same journeys regularly you can do a tanks worth with you using 'Coasting' and another time without. See if one way is more economic fuel wise than the other, Less fuel used is also less emissions if the engine is working efficiently. Even 40 miles extra range if using Coasting is a win if your travel times are the same for just keeping your toe off the accelerator when going down hill or there is no load on the engine. It is not Rocket Science, most kids learn when the cycle what is least work and a use of energy, up hill or down dale. Drive an electric car and see how the power meter drops going down hill, and if you have increased regen braking on or not you can gain energy into the battery. Freewheeling / coasting or retarding speed slightly.

2021 Skoda Octavia VRS with us for •Travel assist activation •Area view installation & calibration The car originally came without a reversing camera, now it has 360* cameras! VW - AUDI - SEAT - CUPRA - SKODA - PORSCHE - BENTLEY - MAN - FORD - VOLVO - BMW - & MORE! •Dealer level diagnostics •Coding •OE retrofits •Apple CarPlay •Android Auto •Component protection removal •Map updates •Software updates •Autowatch Ghost II immobilisers •Thatcham approved trackers •Remapping •Servicing •ADAS repairs & calibrations •Towbars • & more! ☎️ 01262 362116 📧 [email protected] 🌐 www.eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk

What. No, no, no, no. 340mm front and 310 VENTED rears are for the 280ps petrol model exclusively. I already bought the wrong discs once and i have a 190ps diesel awd. What fit correctly was 312mm vented fronts and 300mm solid rear discs. As far as i know, nothing but the 280ps petrol with twin real exhausts get the uprated brakes

There may be other broken wires going to the motor module, or possibly corrosion on connector pins at the motor, or deeper within the motor module. Wiring of door loom inside the bellows at A-pillar is easier to inspect than connector at window motor, so I'd suggest looking at that first.

Yes ,fuse number 42 in the passenger glove box . Best of luck for replacing the the damper on the glove box door that you have to remove to check the fuses. Edit to save you taking glovebox door off ,the same fuse does the rear doors central locking & windscreen wipers.