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The front and rear washer systems share a pump. For example, with the front signal, pin 1 of the pump has a 12V signal and pin 2 a 0V signal. A valve/ball closes the rear outlet. When the rear signal is received, it is turned exactly. The pump operates differently, and a valve/ball should close the front outlet of the pump.

Made it to Beachy Head just in time for a smashing sunset: Got home to see the moon emerging from a distant cloud base: Gaz

The V70's 15 years old - so it's averaged 2,667 a year: I bought it last year at 33k miles, so I've put 7k miles on it. 1200 of those were the trip last May up to Edinburgh. Gaz

Good old crappy scotch blocks strike again 🤣

Giving an update on this in case it helps someone in the future. I originally went to the garage expecting to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced. The mechanic I spoke to wasn’t entirely convinced that simply swapping the sensor would solve the issue. Interestingly, he also owns a Superb himself (a slightly newer model, but same generation) and had experienced similar problems. He suspected that the root cause might be damaged wiring, which he said is a common VAG issue on this platform. I left the car with them, and after two full days of diagnostics and inspection, they confirmed that the problem was indeed wiring-related. They found and replaced four damaged wires: One going to the crankshaft sensor Three others near the ECU, which were also causing communication issues They fully diagnosed the ECU, replaced the damaged wires, and ultimately decided to replace the crankshaft sensor as well, since it may have been affected by the faulty wiring or at risk of future failure. TL;DR If you're having intermittent jerks, limp mode, long cranks, or random engine shutoffs, especially if glow plug lights or other systems flash up, don’t overlook the possibility of damaged wiring, especially near the crankshaft sensor or ECU harness. On this generation of Superb, it's more common than you'd expect. Hope this helps someone! Feel free to reach out if you’re facing a similar issue.

Mrs Gaz's Polo GTI (1.8TSI) had a barely discernible misfire, which turned out to be a failing coil pack - a diagnostic scan revealed which one. It was an easy fix once we knew what it was. It flagged up as it got worse, triggering the EPC light. The car is rarely under any load, with usually only one person in it, but I could see it being far more noticeable had it been loaded up like yours. Our petrol cars are run pretty much exclusively on Momentum 99 👍. I've seen so many people say it doesn't notice whether 95 or 99RON is used, but I'm darn sure I can notice; moreso when giving it the beans. Gaz

Codes need reading before you start playing the parts replacement roulette game. I'd be suspecting coil packs - that can be affected by heat on a hard run. If these are changed it's also worth fitting new plugs. However I have encountered similar symptoms though with a friends 1.8 tsi Yeti. Loosing power under load/ uphill. It was the High Pressure fuel pump.

62000 had 5 oil changes from main Dealer. Think it would make me feel better to know the oil is protecting the internal parts of the engine and reducing ware.

Yerr - I would probably look at not taking it to a Skoda dealer. If you honestly saw some of the completely underwhelming stuff that Škoda dealers do in terms of maintenance, you would be concerned. Go to a VAG specialist. There's one in Ipswich on the Woodbridge Road called VW Audi Workshop Ltd who would probably give you a far better service (although this is not an endorsement of any one place over another). Spark plugs and coils - a good starting place to check. What do they say about Assumptions? Don't assume that any main dealer has actually done anything that they've said they've done. I'm not saying that Underwoods are rogue, but in these days when dealers are not really interested in maintaining your loyalty or actually doing the servicing they are paid (handsomely to do), it is sometimes better to get a second opinion if your car is misbehaving.

Yes. You'll find it between your right foot and the firewall when you sit in the driving seat.

In the 1z5 version (estate / wagon) the rear lights are electronically driven without fuses. Lights which only just about shine indicate a poor earth connection (if whole cluster is affected) or poor bulb contact or corrosion if just one bulb affected. There are no twin filament bulbs in the rear cluster of the estate as they are single filament bulbs electronically controlled. For example the rear light/brake light position has its brightness changed using pulse width modulation to change the brightness. [only the saloon/hatch retains the traditional arrangement]. As said above, in Europe there is only one rear fog light - on the driver's side of the car. It sounds like your weak brightness is the fog light bulb. This can happen if there is poor connection/corrosion in the cluster so another active bulb is supplying power through a high resistance leakage path. Look for water damage.

Sometimes there are no Fault Codes logged for Spark Plug misfires if not enough in a cycle. But regardless the plugs need taken out and inspected regardless of faults logged or not. & the air filter inspected. Maybe nothing relevant but was it E5 95 ron Petrol abroad, and was the last fill up nothing to cause concern. Does it get E10 95 ron in the UK or E5 97 or 99 ron min?

Hello, welcome to the forum. From your description, it sounds as if you have a misfire under load - have the spark plugs been checked? Do you know if they have ever been changed? A DTC scan should show high misfire counts if faulty plugs or coil packs are the cause. Misfires can cause the EPC indicator to light up - Stop/Start will be inhibited when EPC is lit.

Well, first things first - its time to get a scan of the car. I suggest investing in an ODBEleven system and if you can afford it, get the PRO subscription (helps you make coding changes etc). https://obdeleven.com/products That will give you the output from the ECU and different modules which should give you a lead on the issue. EPC - mean Electronic Power Control, i.e. the car is restricting its output for some reason. First things first: Radiators. Can you make sure that your radiator is clean and has good airflow? Wash it the coolant package with a hosepipe (open up bonnet and clean it off as best as possible) Second: Coolant. When was the last time your car had a coolant change? Should really be done every 5 years. Forget the "coolant for life" mantra. Also remove the Silica bag from the header tank and make sure it hasn't split. If it has, then you need a FULL flush (4-6 full flushes) to get rid of the silica as it would have blocked up EVERYTHING including the coolant channels in the engine block. Third: Electronics - make sure one of your coil packs isn't dying. Ideally should be replaced every 100,000miles as a set of 4. Use Bosch or OEM parts here. Using ODBEleven will show you misfire counters. Fourth: Airflow - undo the 8 screws from the air box and make sure that the air filter is nice and clean and hoover out any crud in the airbox. When you were experiencing the issue with the loss of power in France, did you notice the temperature creep above the 90C mark on the dash? Other things to check: oil - make sure to check the oil is at the correct level and hopefully you have a service of the last oil and filter change on the car. Should be running VAG 504/507 spec oil (5W30)

I posted this in the Fabia forum, but it may also be of interest to Karoq owners with the DQ200 dry clutch DSG gearbox, basically the 1.0 TSI, 1.5 TSI (2wd) and possibly the 1.6 TDI (2wd) - the 4x4 use a DQ 381 as do the more powerful 2.0 engines. Until today I thought that any issues with the DSG gearbox always required either a clutch pack or mechatronics unit to fix them, I wasn't aware that the clutch biting point could be reset. The Fabia is a 2015 model 1.2 TSI 110 bhp that has only done 20,000 miles DSG DQ200 clutch reset and adpation - Skoda Fabia Mk3 (2014-2021) - BRISKODA

Assuming it’s the same as my 2016TSI then changing the oil is a doddle. Warm up first of course, then undo the plastic drain plug (no under-trays to remove). I just use a large flat blade screwdriver. I always replace the plastic drain plug - pretty cheap from TPS. Note, don’t buy a cheapo alternative from ebay. I did but I think I didn’t get away with it (oil all over the garage floor next morning😢 Undo the oil filter housing (top front of engine) but don’t fully remove it just yet, give it a minute for all the oil to drain out of it. That way you don’t spill any. Remove old and insert new paper element from TPS, screw back on. Insert new sump plug, turn it clockwise about 1 turn until the locking arm clicks. Add lots of oil (I think it takes around 7 litres, can’t remember). I use Quantum oil from TPS, very cheap and meets the spec, what’s not to like? I bought a new 280tsi in 2023, changed the oil at 7000 miles and then dealer service at the designated (variable) time (around 16,000 miles). Now due another “interim” oil change by me even though about 7000 miles remaining according to the computer. The later model has a metal sump and drain bolt but I think your 2018 version will be plastic.

Yup, with my old Superb II 1.4tsi it noticeably ran better on Momentum 99 from Tesco but made little difference to the economy. However with the replacement Swace (Toyota Corolla TS gubbins) there is no discernible difference with the higher octane petrol.

Well, taking 3 cars, all based on the same chassis and model version, Car Wow have done some real world tests and the actual results are going to open your eyes a bit and also sort of reinforces why I think it pays to have and keep an open mind, especially if you a private motorist and thus unable gain any benefit in the form of grants and or taxation.

I had not noticed that … and once you see it, you can’t unsee it!

T-Roc drive a loc nicer

My local indy changed the microswitch for around £200

Another round of an hour of free Electricity tomorrow, Saturday 9th August, 2 to 3pm. Seems like a good combo of sun and wind currently. Octopus plan to do about ten of these before Earth's seasonal obliquiry approaches the equatoral plane.

Are the 99's XL (extra load) tyres? Not sure about this but I wonder if it's more marketing than anything - I read Michelin, for example, use the same carcass for pretty well all of their tyres. XL tyres can only carry more weight at higher pressures. Both 95 standard & 99XL tyres are 690Kg at 2.5bar (36psi)

The only way nowadays that an AC car system is serviced is to fully recover the fridge gas charge and weigh it, apply a vacuum to the system to remove any accumulated moisture, and recharge the system with the correct weight of fridge gas. Out of interest they might tell you what the recovered weight was as compared with the newly charged weight - though you might not be interested in knowing that, my older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra ended up with a "crap" AC system during the past hot weather, I told her to get it serviced and that sorted it out, perhaps she will buy a bio bomb to sanitise the evaporator now as well. So, that car had lost too much of its fridge gas over a period of 6 years, if your one is still okay, maybe play the system and get its AC serviced as an individual task - if that is allowed within your service plan, but don't do this until next early summer as that should give you a longer period before you will need to pay to get it recharged/serviced the next time.

Please note that a simply battery charger might not do much. A battery conditioner for your type of battery might. Sadly in the 21st century not even charging a battery is simple. That might or might not be considered progress. Note also that some batteries are designed to support stop start and some are not.

Back in 2024 I posted this query regarding Hill Hold on the Fabia DSG. 2015 Fabia 31.2 TSI 110 DSG - does this have Hill Hold? - Skoda Fabia Mk3 (2014-2021) - BRISKODA The upshot was that it did, but there were some interesting replies so I have included a link to it. Since that post it has become clear that something was not right with the way the Fabia would pull away from rest: sometimes it would pull away smoothly other times it would remain stationary and require throttle to move and the amount of throttle needed varied - even when on the flat, occasionally it would require throttle engage with a jerk, disengage and then re-engage. Very awkward when driving into the garage or parking close to something.. I drive a wet clutch DQ 381 Karoq and previously had a wet clutch DQ250 VW and I know that the dry clutch DQ200 in the Fabia can be a little jerky compared to what I was used to. Its my partners car, she just says I don't know how to drive it! Today, on the recommendation of the independent local garage that services our cars, I took the Fabia to STA in Aylesbury, they ran diagnostics - no issues found. Then they performed a clutch reset and adaptation. It has transformed the way the Fabia pulls away from rest. Now on the level or a slight uphill slope it the clutches engage when the brake pedal is released and it starts to move allowing smooth pull aways from rest again. On steeper slopes it needs some throttle as you would expect. The drive back to MK was much smoother. Cost of the diagnostics and Clutch adaptation was £150 - worth doing as its avoided having to have the clutch packs replaced, which would be at least 10 times the cost.

I prized off the covers. They are all intact. They are like individual ones under the cover. I had a new steering pump put on last night, it's working now, but the light is still on so I have the mechanic bringing the read coder later. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much for your help

Coding is the least of the problems. Component protection is compromised, and a feature activation will fail.

Is your trailer hook up an OE one or a high impedance bypass relay type? Your probably already know but the car monitors the bulbs and if it detects something 'out of specification' it shuts down that circuit. hence, if you have connected trailer wiring direct to the lighting circuit and it is not of the right type the car will perceive a fault and shut down the relevant circuits.

Maybe I need to ignore much cheapness and just wait untill more sweetie money saved up and get a Raptor or whatever. Maybe a Ford E or PHEV commercial even.

@EMike IF your engine is a 1.0 petrol then on a previous thread the battery might have the VW battery code 8E0 915 105 B (320A DIN is about 530A EN CCA approx. on the conversion chart I have). A list of 8E0 915 105 B equivalent batteries according to Tayna. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/f/vw-oem/vw-8e0-915-105-b/ Have you tried recharging the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the appropriate charger maintainer as this could recover the battery to useful longer life. As you don't use the car much you have the time to fully recharge the battery to get the most into to it for it to retain. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models The start/stop not working is the first sign that you should recharge the battery, either by sufficient driving or better still using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the appropriate charger maintainer. You have not mentioned that you have any other warning lights or messages from letting the battery get too low in charge so the battery could be recoverable for further useful life despite VW and others wanting your money for expressive perhaps premature battery replacement and possible 'coding'. Yes of course it's safe to disconnected the battery, in fact VWŠkoda recommend you do so if the car isn't used for x-weeks, again consult the car's 'Owner's Manual' for procedure and advice as to what might need resetting on reconnection. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Whether you keep the current battery or change it to a new one in future, for less hassle and longer battery life you want to, when required, do occasional preventative charging of the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and the instructions for the appropriate charger maintainer. I think people had to do this up until say the 1970s for the batteries of the time (6v on some cars) - such is progress. 😆 VWŠkoda didn't bother at the factory putting in the battery serial number on my wife's 2015 Fabia and other Briskoda members have shown the same, just the ten ones (1111111111), the battery brand code doesn't matter either that would have been for VW statistics and most likely to also blame and cost the battery manufacturers for VW's battery charging or monitoring balls-ups, my wife's car got the "battery" Recall. OBDEleven 'coding' done for the change of battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia, note the three character code for battery manufacturer was ignored, I'm told Bosch battery is Varta anyway, and VW being VW AGM is known as fleece by them. There are some very strongly held beliefs, both ways, on this VW battery stuff with very little proof other than what members have reported from their own experiences but 2020 brought another level of VW PITA awkwardness even beyond what they previously made their car owners/users suffer and this has been ramped up again more recently I've seen. Try charging the battery to at least buy you more time while you decide what's right or you want to believe - and you might find you've not killed the battery as much as you thought you had, reports of its (near) death exaggerated.

If removing that plastic off the alloys has a 10% effect on fuel consumption, then every manufacturer would have been using steel rims and old style hub caps for the the last 20yrs, not putting heavier fancy alloys on their new models. Esp as that would bring emmissions figures down accordingly and so further improve their Euro compliance. Much easier than dodgy test detection ECU mapping.. without looking it up, I believe this “aero trim” (hubcaps…) idea started with Tesla ? Claiming it improved range on the cybertruck by some unrealistic amount.

Yep. That's how it's sold. I think this design came in with changes in March 2010 for mk2's, possibly earlier.

Considering modern engines from FSI/TSI and EU4 TDIs onwards, the difference in the cost of shortening intervals vs. rebuild/repais has literally skyrocketed, don't know if any of you has had a recent overhaul of a modern powerplant, but the cost is staggering. If shortening lubricant interval extends life of the mechanicals, so be it. Note of caution: if you are still bound to official servicing, buy elements that are OE so they are undetectable in case of check ... the difference in price between a good paper filter like Mahle or Mann and the OE VW is negiglible, but the latter has written "VW" all over it.

Others are correct, the accelerator pedal is the best bet. As for a limiter in the car, it likely depends on the model you have. An SE-L, for example has adaptive cruise control and speed limiter, lowest effective speed is 20mph. SE spec, and SE Technology differ. I drive an SE First Edition for a while some four years ago; it had standard cruise control but don’t remember a speed limiter. Check the manual for your car and have a look at the control fitted. If it’s there it’ll either on the end of the indicator stalk or an additional stalk on the left side of the steering wheel.

His looked ok but the hairline crack wasn't visible. Reckon it was opening up when getting warm. As said fell in two when I removed it. On his mk1 the alarm chime is really loud. Scares the **** out of you when it goes off. Still havent worked out how to quiten it down. Think there is a smaller maybe 5 amp fuse in car as well. Check its tight and no corosion. Alasdair

The earth connection is common for all the bulbs in the cluster, and the other bulbs work, so I don't think so. I installed a trailer hook last year, maybe I messed up something.

The pump is with the washer bottle - by the drivers side wheel (remove the arch liner). If the pump is at least trying to do something, the issue is probably the piping. If the pump isn't doing something, the issue is probably the pump. It could be the stalk - does the rear wiper come on when you use the rear washer? if it does, then I doubt it's the stalk, as it's clear the signal is going to both rear wiper and pump (when it operates the front). My course of action would be to figure out how to replace the pump, and do it. I doubt it will be anything else, by the sounds of it. The pump is here, and the part number is 1K6 955 651. I don't know the specifics of how the pump works, but my money is on it having given up - be it a valve, motor, solenoid or however else it works. This is for a 2017 Golf, but it's the exact same car. Leave this thread a little bit and some others might be able to offer something more.

Thanks everyone for all this info. Will find out if my colleagues Error code reader is an ODBEleven. It should be said that to date the car has always been serviced by Underwood's Skoda in Sudbury Suffolk. It was last serviced on the 25th of April if IO can find the paper work I can see which of the lists of tasks above have been done but I'd assume any routine maintenance, filter changes and fluid changes would be part of their regime. Spark plugs does sound like a smoking gun though so I'll try and check them out!

Yes mate, 2.0 tdi on a 63 plate 140bhp

Turbo actuator seized?

Got four new tyres fitted today. The previous Pirelli Cinturato P7 did a fantastic job and covered 65k miles, and while they still had plenty of tread left over the majority of the tyre in places they had worn through to the inner layer - that explains the noisy and lumpy drive I've been experiencing lately. The car had Bridgestone Turanza T005 on from new and as soon as the Pirelli's went on I lost up to 5mpg so I've gone back to these, the Bridgestone won't last as long, originals lasted 35k, but as the car will be going to a new owner before that it's not something I have to consider. Also booked it in for it's first MOT in a couple of months, current mileage is 98300 so it will be well over 100k when it hits 3 years old. Still Superb by name and nature - looking a a Superb 4 as a replacement.

Excerpt from the official Skoda Repair Guide: Reasons for calibrating the automatic distance control system The distance control control unit - J428- must be calibrated for the following reasons: ♦ The distance control control unit - J428- has been removed and installed or replaced. ♦ If the front bumper was carelessly installed and the distance control control unit - J428- collides. ♦ If the front bumper is damaged in an accident or similar. ♦ The axle geometry on the rear axle has been adjusted.

Lithium batteries won't be under our control until we have an industrial scale source of Lithium in the UK, which seems many years off. Totally agree about tidal, places like the Pentland Firth have enormous potential to generate significant amounts.

I'm still the original owner of my 2010 110 CR Yeti in Tangerine metallic (pealing top coat) and it's only done 82k miles. Elegance trim and my wife and I really need the memory seats as we're 2ft different in height! It's had a few issues over the years but to be honest, not as many as it could have. A couple of EGR valve replacements, a couple of throttle valve cleans and recently, a new condenser. I'd put up with the AC failing after a few months for about 3 years so finally opened the household wallet and had a new one installed. Current issues (apart from the pealing top coat on the bonnet and roof) are: Instrument cluster LEDs almost gone. I can still read everything in the dark but it's annoying. I might take out the panel and send it to Cartronix to fix while I'm on holiday at some point. I did buy the LEDs and I can solder but it's pretty fiddly so I'm reluctant to do it myself and make things worse. The alarm failed several years ago. For a long time I simply disconnected the fuse for the siren but a few months ago, I bought a custom battery for about £30. Like I said, I can solder so I thought 'no problem', but one of the connector just refused to desolder. I might have damaged the track or one of the components so, despite it looking like it should work, it doesn't. It chirped once and then nothing since. never mind...the immobiliser locking works so I'll live with that. The alloys are quite badly corroded now and I've been told they are responsible for the very slow pressure leak I have. I've had a few quote to have them powder coated and might do this next because I'm fed up with pumping up one of the them every two weeks. I've recently bought an add-on CarPlay unit so I don't feel quite as desperate to get a new car with modern gadgets, but it hasn't cured the desire completely. Other than that, I've been pretty lucky. My wife absolutely loves driving the car and to be honest, so do I. We've shifter sideboards, dressers, all sorts and it's been brilliant. I think even if we buy a new car I'd ,like to hold on to this one. Maybe get the wheels and instrument cluster done this year and give the inside a good clean (beige interior). So, just an update, as it's been a long time since I posted and to let people know how much I wish Skoda had continued the Yeti. I'd have bought a new one a few years ago if they had! Been a member since I bought the car almost 15 years ago.

That is part of the problem, so many people have already formed closed minds and as such anyone who has a different opinion must be on the losers side of the debate, because we are not following the current authority lead narrative. I've always stated that I have an open mind, and I don't just take what the authorities tell us as being 100% factual, as many of us have already witnessed some massive climb downs and reversals. When I was going to college learning my craft, I was inspired by a number of the professors there who used to say "as you gradually learn something, that's when you also realise just how little you do know" and also "Never accept that something your told by authoritative figures as being 100% factual, because if that were true then there is no room for new discoveries". I was taught that if you do X and the result is Y, that is just the start for the inquisitive, and is a point where most people will stop at, but the inquisitive will ask, why does that result happen, what if I did Z, what is the outcome then and why is that different, this how great discoveries are made, but also not all discoveries are great, is the Nuclear bomb a great discovery, when it has the potential to wipe out life on earth?? We should all have inquisitive minds and question things, not just accept what we are told.

You are taking one sided view of who funds research papers, I'm not going to do your research for you but there are multiple organisations worldwide that are wanting to pursue a climate change agenda who have funded many papers. Here's one example - Al Gore has created organisations with significant funding (mostly from high worth individuals) much of which has been spent on funding research as well as activism and public speaking.

Is this all really needed? The labour hours are ridiculous IMO. Costed not as the wheels are coming off once, parts stripped, replaced, brake fluid changed, exhaust clamp done. Wheels on, road tested. Half a day morning or afternoon at the most, not needing almost a full days work for a trained mechanic. Maybe an apprentice yes. But not at that hourly rate.

I picked up my new Superb SEL last October. I had specced a factory fit retractable tow bar, which cost me £1105 in total. I always smile when I read of all the problems people have when they decide against the factory option and go their own way. They ultimately seem to end up paying more for a load of hassle and/or an inferior product? Mine is just brilliant. It works flawlessly with a Thule 2x e-bike carrier. The hardest part I find is connecting/disconnecting the cable. I am always amazed at how easy it all is although as an ex-engineer I still think of all the loads it takes with the carrier and 2 e-bikes over our pot-hole eneven road surfaces! I hope everyone does get sorted out but my advise through experience is to take the factory fit option.

Hello, Check the trunk sensor, on the boot sill. It’s a proximity sensor, which checks that the boot is closed. This sensor should be under the small cover that is spring-loaded around the locking ring. Just check it’s correctly connected. I had a similar problem on my wife´s former Audi Q3. Hope it helps.